Used Husqvarna 50 Chainsaw (Inspection Guide)
Before buying a used Husqvarna 50, confirm its identity and manual, inspect its safety parts and cutting gear, then test it cold and warm if possible. The model is about 49.4 cc, but age, condition, and fitted parts matter more than the badge. Walk away from cracks, leaks, missing safety devices, or signs of severe engine damage.
If you are comparing listings, the Husqvarna 50 can look like a practical upgrade: a mid-size saw with enough displacement for routine cutting when it is sound and correctly set up. The catch is that age and replacement parts can make two saws with the same model name quite different. I would verify the exact saw before deciding whether its price makes sense.
This guide gives you a step-by-step inspection, from the serial number to a cautious running check. It also shows what to confirm before buying a bar, chain, or tune-up parts. The goal is not to assume an old saw is good or bad. It is to find evidence that supports a fair decision.
Identify the exact saw before buying parts
This step confirms which Husqvarna 50 you are inspecting and prevents errors caused by assuming every version uses the same parts or settings. Record the model marking and serial number, then seek the matching operator’s manual before buying a chain, tuning the carburetor, or relying on a fuel ratio.
Find the model and serial markings on the saw and take clear photos. A seller’s description is not a substitute for the markings on the machine. If they are missing, damaged, or do not match the saw being offered, treat the identity as unconfirmed.
Use the serial number and model details to ask Husqvarna or an authorized dealer for help identifying the correct manual and applicable parts. I would not guess a production year from an online listing or use a manual for a similar-looking model without checking its applicability.
The Husqvarna 50 is approximately 49.4 cc. That figure tells you engine displacement, not the saw’s condition or cutting capacity. A worn engine, damaged bar, mismatched chain, or unsafe repair can matter more than the specification.
Inspect the saw before starting it
A static inspection can reveal faults that a brief running test may hide. With the engine off and cool, look for damage, loose parts, leaks, and signs of poor repairs. Do not start a saw with cracked structure, a defective safety control, or fuel leaking from the tank or lines.
Wear eye and hearing protection, gloves, sturdy boots, and chainsaw chaps while handling or testing the saw. Keep the chain brake engaged when appropriate, and avoid touching the chain’s cutting edges. Ask the seller for permission before operating the machine.
Check these areas in order:
- Body and handles: Look for cracks in the housing, loose handles, missing fasteners, and makeshift repairs. Check that the front handle and rear grip feel secure.
- Throttle and stop controls: The throttle should return when released, and the throttle lockout should work as designed. Confirm that the stop switch is present and operates.
- Chain brake and catcher: Check for damage, secure mounting, and free movement as described in the manual. Do not treat a brake that looks intact as proof it works.
- Bar and chain: Look for damaged or uneven bar rails, a blocked groove, worn drive links, cracked cutters, and incorrect tension. A chain that is too loose can come off; one that is too tight can increase wear.
- Sprocket and covers: Check for heavy wear, damage, loose covers, or missing parts. A worn sprocket can damage a replacement chain.
- Leaks and air intake: Look for fuel or oil seepage and a dirty, damaged, or missing air filter. Oil around the saw can be hard to identify, so trace the source rather than assuming it is harmless chain oil.
Reject a saw with a cracked case or handle, fuel leaks, modified safety equipment, or a chain brake, throttle lockout, or stop switch that does not work. Repairs may be possible, but the price should not make you overlook a safety defect.
Check the bar, chain, and lubrication
A bar and chain must match the saw and each other. Confirm the bar’s stamped pitch, gauge, and drive-link count, then check the chain against all three details. Do not order from bar length or model name alone, because an incorrect chain can fit poorly or create a serious hazard.
The common Husqvarna 50 setup uses a .325-inch pitch, but confirm the fitted parts and manual. Chain gauge is the drive link’s thickness, and drive-link count is the number of links that travel around the bar. Both depend on the specific bar; do not assume a .050-inch gauge.
A sound, correctly configured saw is generally suited to a 13–18-inch bar for routine work. Treat that as a practical range, not approval for every bar in it. Confirm the exact bar and chain combination in the manual or with a qualified dealer. Longer bars need specific approval and can place more demand on the saw.
| Inspection item | What to confirm | Buyer’s next step |
|---|---|---|
| Bar stamp | Pitch, gauge, and length | Match to the manual and chain |
| Chain | Pitch, gauge, drive-link count, and condition | Replace if damaged or mismatched |
| Tension | Chain sits correctly in the bar groove and can be adjusted as specified | Do not run a chain that is loose or binding |
| Oil delivery | Bar and chain receive oil during the manual’s test | Do not cut until delivery is confirmed |
Check that the oil tank is filled with bar-and-chain oil and inspect the oil holes and bar groove for dirt. Confirm oil delivery using the manufacturer’s test method. There is no dependable universal flow-rate figure for this inspection; if delivery is absent or doubtful, find the cause before cutting.
Start and test the saw safely
A running check can show whether the saw starts, idles, responds to the throttle, and runs after warming up. It cannot prove that the engine will last or that hidden faults are absent. Test outdoors, follow the correct manual procedure, and stop if the saw leaks, races, or behaves unpredictably.
Ask the seller not to warm the saw before you arrive if a cold-start check is part of the deal. A cold engine may be harder to start than a warm one, but starting behavior depends on condition, settings, and the correct procedure. Do not keep pulling if you are unsure how to operate the controls.
Start on firm ground using the manual’s method, with the chain brake and controls handled as specified. Keep people well clear. Once running, check for a stable idle and confirm the chain does not move at idle. Test the stop switch and brake according to the manual; do not put a hand near the chain or improvise a brake test.
If the seller agrees, let the saw reach operating temperature and then check whether it restarts. Stop if you find a fuel leak, unstable idle, unusual mechanical noise, smoke that concerns you, or a chain that moves at idle. A saw that starts once is not automatically a reliable saw.
Evaluate likely repair needs and value
A used saw’s asking price is only part of the cost. The chain, bar, sprocket, filters, fuel system, or engine may need attention, and a safety defect can make the saw unsuitable until repaired. Estimate the work before negotiating, using confirmed parts and service information rather than a guess.
| Finding | What it may mean | Buying decision |
|---|---|---|
| Dull but undamaged chain | Routine sharpening or replacement | Price the correct chain or service |
| Worn bar rails or sprocket | Cutting parts may need renewal | Check compatible parts and total cost |
| Dirty filter or blocked oil holes | Poor maintenance or a simple service need | Clean and retest before use |
| Hard starting, poor idle, or weak running | Several possible causes; inspection alone cannot diagnose them | Seek a qualified repair assessment |
| Cracked parts, leaks, failed controls | Safety or structural concern | Walk away unless professionally repaired and verified |
In evaluations, I separate visible service needs from problems that require diagnosis. A dirty filter is visible; the cause of poor running may not be. If the seller will not allow a safe inspection or the saw cannot be tested, treat its condition as unknown and price that risk accordingly.
Maintain and tune it only after verification
Maintenance should begin with a confirmed manual and sound safety equipment. Clean parts and correct chain sharpening can support reliable operation, but carburetor changes cannot repair worn engine parts or a fuel-system fault. Use measured settings and a tachometer when the manual calls for them.
Common Husqvarna 50 guidance uses a 50:1 fuel-to-oil mix (2%) with Husqvarna-approved two-stroke oil. Do not assume that ratio applies to an unidentified year or an unapproved oil. Confirm the exact manual and oil instructions before mixing fuel. Never run straight gasoline or an unverified mix; poor lubrication can cause engine seizure.
Published settings commonly include about 2,500 rpm at idle and 12,500 rpm maximum, but check the applicable manual before adjustment. Use a tachometer and stay within the specified maximum. Do not tune by ear or turn adjustment screws without understanding the procedure; incorrect tuning can damage the engine or make the saw unsafe.
Sharpen the chain to its maker’s instructions and set depth gauges to the specified height. About 0.025 inch (0.65 mm) is common for standard cross-cut chain, but it is not universal. Do not force a dull chain through wood. Stop, sharpen or replace it, then reassess the cut.
Use and store the saw with care
A successful inspection does not replace safe work practices. Before cutting, assess the tree, wood movement, footing, overhead hazards, and escape route. Use a correctly matched, sharp chain and maintain a two-handed grip. Stop if the saw binds, the wood shifts, or the kerf closes.
The bar nose can cause rotational kickback if its upper quadrant strikes a branch or trunk. Keep the nose clear, avoid cutting above shoulder height, and do not rely on the chain brake to prevent injury. Keep bystanders outside the work zone. Maintain at least 10 ft (3 m) from power lines as a minimum public-work clearance; electrical hazards call for qualified line-clearance professionals.
Felling needs training, a planned escape path, and a sound hinge. Use a qualified arborist for complex trees or hazardous conditions. After work, engage the brake, switch off, and let the saw cool. Clean the air filter, cooling fins, bar groove, and oil holes, then check for damage and chain tension. Refuel only when cool and away from ignition sources.
For storage, follow the model-specific manual’s fuel and preparation instructions. Keep the saw clean, dry, and secured away from children. Do not assume an old fuel mix or storage method is safe for the machine; consult the manual before preparing it for a long period out of use.
Buyer’s decision and frequently asked questions
A sound purchase is one with a verified identity, working safety parts, compatible cutting gear, and a running test that raises no major concerns. If key checks remain incomplete, pause rather than treating uncertainty as proof of a bargain. Use the answers below to resolve common inspection questions before you commit.
Is the Husqvarna 50 suitable for routine firewood cutting?
A sound, correctly configured 49.4 cc saw can suit routine cutting with an approved bar and chain. Match the setup to the work and follow the manual.
What bar length should I look for?
A 13–18-inch bar is a common practical range for this saw, but verify the exact bar and chain combination for the individual machine.
Does every Husqvarna 50 use a .050-inch chain gauge?
No. The common pitch is .325 inch, but gauge and drive-link count depend on the bar. Read its stamp and match all three chain details.
What fuel mix should I use?
Common guidance is 50:1 with Husqvarna-approved two-stroke oil. Confirm the exact manual for the saw’s year and configuration before mixing fuel.
Can I set the carburetor by ear?
No. Confirm the manual’s settings and use a tachometer where specified. Do not exceed the stated maximum engine speed.
Should the chain move when the saw idles?
No. Stop and investigate if it moves at idle. Do not continue cutting until the cause is addressed.
How can I tell if the oiler works?
Use the test described in the applicable manual and check the bar groove and oil holes. Do not rely on a universal flow-rate number.
Is a saw that starts cold a safe buy?
Not by itself. Inspect the controls, brake, catcher, bar, chain, leaks, and running behavior as well.
When should I walk away?
Walk away from cracked structure, fuel leaks, failed safety controls, or modified safety parts. If the saw cannot be checked safely, treat its condition as unknown.
Can I use a longer bar for occasional large cuts?
Only if the specific saw, bar, and chain are approved for that setup. Confirm compatibility and do not use bar length alone to judge cutting ability.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Marcus Thorne. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
