Stihl 056 Chainsaw Value (Used Price Guide)
A used Stihl 056 is commonly worth about $75–$200 as an incomplete or non-running project, $200–$450 if it runs but shows work wear, and $450–$750 if it is complete and passes key checks. Exceptional, documented restorations may exceed $750, but only where local demand supports that price. Confirm the exact model and condition before paying.
I have seen how an old professional saw can look like a bargain until a buyer checks the details. A seller may say it “starts,” while the saw has weak compression, a worn bar, or an oiling fault. Those issues matter more to value than a fresh coat of paint. The guide below gives you a practical range, then shows how to decide where a particular saw belongs.
What is a fair price for a used Stihl 056?
These ranges are starting points for private sales in US dollars, not guaranteed sale prices or a live market survey. Local demand, season, parts supply, and the saw’s exact version can shift value. Price the condition you can verify, not the seller’s description or the model badge alone.
| Condition and completeness | Typical private-sale range | What the range assumes |
|---|---|---|
| Parts saw, non-running, or incomplete | $75–$200 | Buyer expects diagnosis, missing parts, or major repair |
| Running, work-worn saw | $200–$450 | It runs, but wear or unverified systems limit confidence |
| Clean, complete, verified saw | $450–$750 | Strong compression, working oiling, and key safety parts are confirmed |
| Documented restoration or exceptional original condition | $750–$1,000+ | Records and condition support the premium, and local buyers will pay it |
A running engine alone does not qualify a saw for the upper range. It should also restart warm, respond to throttle without racing or bogging, deliver bar oil, and have a working chain brake. A clean saw with missing parts or uncertain repairs may be worth less than a scruffier one with sound mechanical condition.
Treat these figures as a negotiation framework. Ask for the seller’s location, included bar and chain, and repair records. Then compare the asking price with the cost and availability of any parts or service it needs. Key takeaway: use the range that matches verified condition, then adjust for specific faults.
Which 056 model are you buying?
Look closely at model and serial markings. The 056, 056 AV, 056 Super, and 056 Magnum are not interchangeable labels. “AV” refers to an anti-vibration feature, but it does not by itself establish that a saw is a Super or Magnum. Nor should a seller’s “Magnum” claim earn extra money without markings or other reliable support.
Bar and chain details also affect value. Read the bar stamp and check that the chain and sprocket match. A chain’s pitch and gauge must fit the saw’s components; common examples include 3/8-inch or .404-inch pitch and .050-inch or .063-inch gauge. These measurements are not interchangeable. Confirm the correct drive-link count for the bar as well.
Do not assume every 056 came with the same setup or accepts the same parts. Ask for the applicable operator or service manual, and verify specifications such as weight, power, and engine speed against documentation for the exact version. Key takeaway: identify the saw first, then assess what its included configuration is worth.
How should you inspect an 056 before agreeing on a price?
A useful inspection checks whether the saw is complete, safe, and mechanically sound, not just whether it fires up. Start with the engine off and the saw stable. Wear suitable protective gear if you take part in a running demonstration, and keep other people clear of the cutting area.
Check the case, handles, anti-vibration mounts, starter, muffler, air filter, clutch cover, bar rails, sprocket, chain brake, throttle interlock, and stop switch. Look for cracks, loose parts, makeshift repairs, and missing covers. Check chain tension and make sure the chain cannot contact the ground or another object during a start.
Ask to see a cold start using the model’s manual procedure, on stable ground with the brake engaged. Do not accept a drop-start. After the saw warms, ask for a restart and a brief check of throttle response. If it races, idles unevenly, or will not hold idle, stop the test rather than trying random carburetor adjustments.
Confirm that the brake stops the chain and that the oiling system delivers oil to the bar. Do not test-cut with a dull, mismatched, loose, or unlubricated chain, and never bypass a faulty brake. Listen for unusual clutch-side or crankcase noise, but do not treat sound alone as proof of engine health.
Compression can help identify wear, but a reading needs the right gauge and a suitable procedure to be useful. More importantly, an engine that starts can still have an air leak. Aged crank seals, intake boots, or impulse lines may let in unmetered air. The saw can race, idle erratically, or seize under load. A competent small-engine technician can check for leaks with a pressure and vacuum test.
If the seller cannot demonstrate an important system, price the fault as unresolved. A promise that the saw was “just tuned” is not a substitute for a test or service record. Key takeaway: the cold start, warm restart, chain brake, and oil delivery are core checks, not optional extras.
How do condition and repair needs change the value?
A price guide is most useful when you can connect an observed fault to the range it supports. The examples below are illustrative appraisal scenarios, not reports of specific sales. They show how to weigh evidence without inventing a fixed repair deduction for parts or labor that may vary by region.
| Example condition | Likely pricing position | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Incomplete saw with no start demonstration | $75–$200 | Engine condition and missing-part costs remain unknown |
| Starts cold but has uncertain compression or oiling | Usually project or lower running range | A start alone does not verify core systems |
| Work-worn saw that runs, restarts warm, and oils correctly | $200–$450 | Functional, but wear and remaining service life affect buyer risk |
| Complete saw with strong compression, brake function, and verified oiling | $450–$750 | Evidence supports a higher-confidence purchase |
| Restoration with clear receipts and correct parts | Potentially $750–$1,000+ | The premium depends on quality and local demand |
Deduct for uncertain compression, air leaks, a damaged clutch or flywheel, failed oiling, missing covers, or obsolete or incorrect parts. The size of the deduction depends on the fault and parts availability, so ask for a repair estimate instead of assuming a standard amount. A missing safety part or a serious engine fault may move the saw into project territory.
A sharp chain, serviceable bar rails, functioning oil pump, intact brake, and clean cooling system support the stronger end of a range. Cosmetic cleaning does not. Look for receipts and ask whether replacement parts are original, correct aftermarket parts, or improvised repairs. Missing identification markings deserve caution, especially if the seller cannot explain the saw’s history.
Illustrative case: One buyer sees an 056 that starts but has no cold-start demonstration and no proof of oil delivery. That buyer should not value it like a verified work-ready saw. Another sees a complete, work-worn example with a warm restart, working brake, and confirmed bar oil. That evidence better supports the functional range, even if the plastics are not pristine. Key takeaway: pay for demonstrated condition, not claimed condition.
What ownership details affect a buyer’s real cost?
A used-saw price is only part of the decision. The bar, chain, sprocket, safety parts, and likely service needs can change the value of what is included. Before comparing two listings, note the exact configuration and ask whether the included components are usable and correctly matched.
A 20–25-inch bar can be a practical general-purpose setup on a sound 056, but it is not proof that every saw or operator is suited to every cut. Longer bars call for the right chain, sharp cutters, and skill. The engine, bar mount, sprocket, chain pitch, gauge, and drive-link count must all agree. Verify the setup rather than relying on a photo.
Fuel mix and engine tuning also require the exact manual. Do not assume a 50:1 or 40:1 mix ratio, and never use straight gasoline. Likewise, do not tune maximum engine speed by ear or use a guessed RPM limit. An overly lean high-speed setting can damage the engine. Ask a qualified technician to use the correct service information and a tachometer where needed.
For cutting equipment, ask how the chain has been sharpened and whether its depth gauges were set to the chain maker’s specification. There is no single safe depth-gauge setting for every chain. If the chain type cannot be identified, include replacement cost and setup work in your offer.
A useful seller question is: “What did you verify, and what still needs work?” Ask for receipts, the correct manual, and an explanation of any nonstandard repair. For commercial tree work, follow current ANSI Z133 practices and relevant OSHA requirements. A working brake and protective gear do not make an untrained felling operation safe. Key takeaway: compare complete, compatible setups, not just engine size and asking price.
Frequently asked questions
These short answers cover common buying questions about used 056 saws. The right price still depends on the exact model, local market, and evidence from inspection. If a key system cannot be checked, keep that uncertainty in your offer rather than treating it as proof of good condition.
How much is a used Stihl 056 worth?
Typical private-sale guide ranges are $75–$200 for a project, $200–$450 for a work-worn running saw, and $450–$750 for a complete, verified example.
Can an 056 sell for more than $750?
Yes. A documented restoration or unusually strong original condition may support $750–$1,000 or more where local demand justifies it. The premium is not automatic.
Is a saw that starts worth the running-saw price?
Not necessarily. Check warm restart, throttle response, chain-brake function, oil delivery, and signs of engine or air-leak trouble before valuing it as functional.
Are the 056, 056 AV, Super, and Magnum the same?
No. Confirm the exact model markings. Do not pay a Magnum premium based only on a seller’s description.
What engine size should I expect?
The standard 056 is commonly listed around 81 cm³, while Super and Magnum versions are commonly listed around 87 cm³. Verify the exact version in its manual.
Which bar length should come with a used 056?
There is no single required length. A sound 20–25-inch setup can suit general work, but the bar mount and chain system must match the saw.
Can I assume the chain is 3/8-inch pitch?
No. Read the bar stamp and verify the chain and sprocket. Pitch, gauge, and drive-link count must match the specific setup.
What is the correct fuel mix?
Use the ratio in the manual for the exact saw and oil. Do not guess between common ratios, and never run straight gasoline.
Should I buy an 056 with an uncertain air leak?
Only at a project-level price if you accept the repair risk. A pressure and vacuum test by a competent technician is the proper way to check for leaks.
What is the most important check before purchase?
There is no single check that confirms overall condition. At minimum, inspect the saw, see a cold start and warm restart, test the brake and oiling, and investigate abnormal running before paying.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Marcus Thorne. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
