What Is A Balled-And-Burlapped Tree (Planting Depth Guide)

A balled-and-burlapped (B&B) tree is sold with its roots and surrounding soil held together in burlap, often with a wire basket. Plant it by the root flare, not by the top of the wrapped ball: the first structural roots should sit at or slightly above finished ground level. A wide, shallow hole and careful watering help limit settling and root damage.

If the root ball looks like a solid bundle, it can be hard to tell where the tree should sit. The key is to find the root flare, where the trunk widens and the first main roots begin. That point determines planting depth, even if it is hidden beneath burlap or extra soil.

In my teaching, I have found that this one check prevents a common mistake: treating the top of the wrapped ball as the planting line. The ball’s covering can extend above the roots, so use the flare as your reference instead.

What Is a Balled-and-Burlapped Tree?

A balled-and-burlapped tree is dug with a mass of soil around its roots. Burlap and, in some cases, a wire basket hold that root ball together for handling and planting. The covering protects the soil mass during the move, but it does not set the tree’s planting depth.

The abbreviation B&B means “balled and burlapped.” Unlike a bare-root tree, which is sold without soil around its roots, a B&B tree arrives with a root ball. The ball may be wrapped in natural or synthetic burlap and may have twine or wire to help it stay intact.

The root flare is the area at the base of the trunk where it widens into the first structural roots. It may be covered by soil, burlap, or twine. Carefully uncover it before measuring. Do not assume the trunk’s point of entry into the wrapped ball is the flare.

When planted, the first structural roots should be at finished grade or slightly above it. “Finished grade” means the final ground surface around the tree after backfilling and light settling. Mulch sits on top of the soil; it does not count as ground level.

Site Assessment, Tools, and Planting Safety

A suitable planting site gives the tree room to grow and has soil and drainage it can tolerate. Before digging, check the mature size and site needs of the tree, look for drainage problems, and locate underground utilities. Wear gloves, eye protection, and sturdy footwear while handling the ball and digging.

Check that the planting spot has enough room for the tree’s expected mature height and spread, and that its soil and drainage suit the species. If water tends to remain in the area, pause and check whether the tree is appropriate for that site before planting. A correctly planted tree can still struggle in an unsuitable location.

Inspect the tree and root ball before moving it. Look for a firm, stable trunk and a ball that is not badly cracked or loose. Identify the root flare. If it is hidden, carefully remove enough soil from the top to find the first structural roots. This step matters because extra soil on top of the ball can disguise the true depth.

Gather a shovel, tape measure, gloves, eye protection, and sturdy footwear. A tarp can help keep excavated soil together. Locate underground utilities before digging, using the local utility-locating service where available. Do not lift the tree by its trunk; plan to support the root ball instead.

Balled-and-Burlapped Tree Planting: Positioning and Backfill

Correct planting depth comes from measuring between the bottom of the root ball and the root flare. Dig a wide, shallow-sided hole no deeper than that distance, with firm, undisturbed soil beneath the ball. Set the flare at or slightly above finished grade, then remove covering from the upper ball before backfilling.

Measure and prepare the planting hole

Measure the ball from its base to the root flare. That distance sets the maximum hole depth. Dig a hole two to three times as wide as the root ball, with sloped or gently sloping sides. Keep the soil under the ball firm and undisturbed so the tree is less likely to settle.

If the hole is too deep, do not plan to raise the tree by adding loose soil beneath the ball. Loose fill can settle and lower the tree after planting. Instead, restore a firm base before setting the ball. Loosen compacted soil along the hole’s sides so new roots can move outward.

Set the tree and remove upper wrapping

Lift and position the tree by supporting the root ball, not pulling on the trunk. Center it in the hole and check the flare from several sides. The first structural roots should be at or slightly above the surrounding finished grade.

Once the tree is stable, remove twine, tags, and burlap from the top and sides of the ball. Remove synthetic burlap completely. Remove natural burlap as much as practical without breaking the ball apart. If the ball has a wire basket, cut away and remove its top one-third to one-half where feasible. Also remove accessible wire and ties near the trunk and flare.

Backfill with the excavated soil in layers. Gently firm each layer by hand, but do not tamp the soil into a hard mass. Water as you go or after backfilling to help settle soil around the roots and reduce large air pockets. Recheck the flare before finishing; the tree should not have sunk below grade.

Two planting scenarios

These examples show how to use the measurements; they are not measurements for every tree.

• The ball’s top is higher than the flare: A wrapped ball may have soil above the first structural roots. Measure from the base of the ball to the flare, dig to that depth, and set the flare at grade. Do not lower the tree just to make the ball’s top match the ground.
• The tree settles after watering: If the flare drops below grade, do not cover it with more soil or mulch. Correct the planting elevation promptly so the trunk base and structural roots are not left buried.

Watering, Mulching, and Establishment Care

After planting, water thoroughly to settle the backfill, then keep the root zone evenly moist while the tree establishes. Apply two to three inches of mulch over the root area, but leave a three- to six-inch gap around the trunk. Check the soil regularly and adjust watering to its moisture and local conditions.

Water slowly enough for moisture to reach the root ball and the surrounding backfill. The goal is to moisten the root zone without turning the planting area into a persistently wet spot. No single watering schedule fits every tree or site, so check soil moisture rather than relying only on a calendar.

Spread two to three inches of mulch over the planting area. Keep it three to six inches away from the trunk; mulch should not form a mound against the bark. Thick, piled mulch can hide the root flare and make it harder to notice if the tree has settled.

Stake only if the tree or site needs support. If you stake it, use ties that support the tree without cutting into it, and remove them when support is no longer needed. Recheck the root flare and mulch position as part of routine care.

Inspection and Corrective Care After Planting

The most important follow-up check is whether the root flare remains visible at or slightly above finished grade. Look for settling, a leaning tree, exposed or damaged root-ball areas, and mulch piled against the trunk. If the flare is too low after settling, correct the planting elevation promptly rather than adding soil or mulch around the trunk.

A buried flare can keep the trunk base and structural roots persistently wet. It can also encourage girdling roots, which grow around the trunk or other roots, and may contribute to tree decline or failure. Do not treat a hidden flare as a cosmetic issue: check the planting depth.

If the tree has settled too low, remove excess soil or mulch from around the trunk and assess whether the tree needs to be reset at the correct height. Avoid trying to fix a low flare by building up the surrounding soil. If the ball is unstable or the tree cannot be safely repositioned, seek help from a qualified tree-care professional.

If the tree leans, first check whether the root ball shifted during backfilling or watering. Correct the position while the planting is still manageable, and stake only if support is needed. Keep the ball intact when adjusting it; pulling or pushing the trunk can damage roots or loosen the ball.

Conclusion and FAQ

Planting depth depends on the root flare, not the top of the burlap-covered ball. Measure from the ball’s base to the flare, keep firm soil beneath the ball, and dig a hole two to three times its width. After planting, check for settling, water thoroughly, and keep mulch away from the trunk.

What does “balled and burlapped” mean?
It means the tree is dug with soil around its roots, and the root ball is wrapped in burlap. A wire basket may also support the ball.

How deep should I plant a B&B tree?
Measure from the bottom of the root ball to the root flare. The hole should be no deeper than that measurement, and the flare should sit at or slightly above finished grade.

Should the top of the root ball be level with the ground?
Not necessarily. Use the root flare as your reference. Extra soil or wrapping above the flare can make the top of the ball a poor guide.

How wide should the planting hole be?
Make it two to three times as wide as the root ball. Keep the soil beneath the ball firm and undisturbed.

Should I remove burlap before planting?
Remove burlap, twine, and tags from the top and sides of the ball after positioning it. Remove synthetic burlap completely. Remove natural burlap as much as practical without breaking the ball apart.

Should I remove the wire basket?
Where feasible, remove the top one-third to one-half after the tree is stable. Also remove accessible wire and ties near the trunk and root flare.

How much mulch should I use around a new tree?
Apply two to three inches of mulch over the root area. Keep it three to six inches away from the trunk.

What if the tree settles after planting?
Check the root flare. If it is below grade, correct the planting elevation promptly. Do not cover the trunk base with added soil or mulch.

Should I stake a B&B tree?
Stake only if the tree or site needs support. Check that ties do not cut into the tree, and remove them when support is no longer needed.

Can I plant a B&B tree in wet soil?
First check whether the tree suits the site’s drainage. A tree planted at the right depth may still struggle if the site stays too wet for that species.

(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Evan Bradley. Visit our Meet the Team page.)