Husqvarna 136 vs. 137 vs. 142 (Spec Comparison)
The 136 and 137 are both about 36.3 cc; the 142 is about 40.2 cc, so it has the largest engine of the three. For light property work, condition, correct setup, and parts access matter as much as displacement. Check the saw’s ID plate and manual before buying parts, since specifications and approved bar setups can vary by market and version.
If you are comparing these older homeowner saws, the model number alone will not tell you which is the better buy. Listings often leave out the details that matter most: whether the saw runs well, whether its safety parts work, and whether you can get the right replacement bar and chain.
I would compare a specific saw’s condition and local parts support before paying extra for one model. The 142 has more displacement on paper, but that does not prove that a used 142 will cut better than a well-maintained 136 or 137. All three are best considered for light property maintenance, not as substitutes for professional felling equipment or a trained tree-care crew.
Husqvarna 136, 137, and 142 specifications
These three models are compact, older gas saws. The 136 and 137 are approximately 36.3 cc, while the 142 is approximately 40.2 cc. Treat these as general model figures, then confirm the exact version on the saw’s identification plate and in its manual.
| Specification | Husqvarna 136 | Husqvarna 137 | Husqvarna 142 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Engine displacement | About 36.3 cc | About 36.3 cc | About 40.2 cc |
| Common bar offerings | Roughly 13–18 in | Roughly 13–18 in | Roughly 13–18 in |
| Common chain setup | Often 3/8-in low profile, 0.050-in gauge | Often 3/8-in low profile, 0.050-in gauge | Often 3/8-in low profile, 0.050-in gauge |
| Main buying check | Condition and fit | Condition and fit | Condition and fit |
Bar options and chain details vary by market and saw configuration. The table is not a parts-ordering guide.
What the displacement difference means
Displacement is the volume swept by the engine’s piston. The 142’s larger figure indicates a bigger engine, but displacement alone does not show how a saw will perform in a cut. Chain sharpness, chain condition, wood, bar length, and engine health all affect cutting.
The 136 and 137 have the same approximate displacement. Do not assume one is automatically faster or more powerful based only on its model number. When two used saws are otherwise similar, compare their actual condition and confirm their specifications rather than treating the model name as a performance test.
A bar is the guide that supports the chain. Longer bars can reach farther, but they also increase load and exposure to kickback. These models are commonly found with bars around 13 to 18 inches, but only use a length and chain combination approved for your exact saw.
Chain and bar compatibility
Pitch is the spacing between chain drive links, and gauge is the thickness of the part that sits in the bar groove. Common configurations for these models use 3/8-inch low-profile pitch and 0.050-inch (1.3 mm) gauge. Verify both on the saw, bar, chain, and sprocket before ordering.
The drive-link count depends on the bar length and setup. A chain that matches the pitch but not the gauge or drive-link count will not fit correctly. Check the markings on the existing bar and chain, then confirm compatibility in the manual or with a knowledgeable parts supplier. Do not order by model name alone.
Takeaway: The 142 has the largest engine, but the best comparison starts with the exact saw version and its working condition.
How to choose by workload and condition
This comparison helps match each saw to light property work without overstating what a model can do. A sound, sharp, correctly set-up saw can be a better purchase than a larger but worn one. Consider what you cut, how often you cut, and whether service parts are available nearby.
Choose by the job, not the number
For occasional pruning cleanup or cutting small, manageable wood on the ground, any of the three may suit the task if it is in good working order and set up with an approved bar and chain. Wood size and condition still matter. A dull or damaged chain can make a capable saw cut poorly.
For repeated cuts in larger wood, the 142’s extra displacement may be useful, but that is not a guarantee of a specific cutting speed. A longer bar is not a simple upgrade either. Use the shortest approved bar that safely reaches the work, and stop if the saw struggles, the wood shifts, or the cut becomes hard to control.
These are legacy homeowner saws. Do not treat any of them as professional tree-felling equipment. Work involving hung-up trees, heavy lean, overhead hazards, or complex tension and compression calls for appropriate training and equipment. If the tree or escape route is unpredictable, stop and get qualified help.
Compare the individual saws before buying
A seller’s claim that a saw “runs great” is not a substitute for checking it. Ask for the model identification and manual information, and inspect the saw’s bar, chain, controls, and safety parts. If possible, see it start and idle using the manufacturer’s procedure.
Check that the chain brake, throttle lockout, and chain catcher are present and functional. Look for damage to the bar and chain, and ask whether the saw has been serviced. If the seller cannot confirm the model or parts setup, factor that uncertainty into your decision rather than assuming parts will fit.
Parts availability can vary by location and time. Before buying, check whether you can source a compatible bar, chain, air filter, and other service parts for the exact version. A low purchase price may not be a good value if the saw needs parts that are difficult to identify or obtain.
Takeaway: For these three models, condition, parts access, and correct setup are stronger buying checks than the model number alone.
Equipment Setup and Safety Preparation
Good setup reduces avoidable problems before a cut begins. Use the manual for the exact model and version, wear suitable protective gear, and inspect key controls and cutting parts. If a safety device is damaged or missing, do not operate the saw until it is properly repaired.
Wear a helmet, eye and ear protection, chainsaw-rated leg protection, gloves, and boots. Check the chain brake, throttle lockout, chain catcher, controls, bar, chain tension, and lubrication system. Clear bystanders and plan an escape path before cutting. Assess lean, overhead hazards, wind, and any branches or trees that could move.
Follow ANSI Z133 work practices where they apply. OSHA 29 CFR 1910.266 applies to work within its logging-safety scope. These standards do not replace training or the saw’s manual.
Fuel and start checks
Use a 50:1 fuel mix only with Husqvarna two-stroke oil or oil explicitly approved for that ratio. Use fresh unleaded gasoline of the grade specified in the applicable manual. Confirm the correct fuel procedure for the exact model before filling the saw.
Start on stable ground and follow the manual’s cold- or warm-start steps, with the chain brake engaged. Once running, confirm the chain stays still at idle. Then check chain lubrication using the method in the manual. Carburetor settings and engine speeds depend on the version and condition; use the model-specific manual and a tachometer for tuning, not guesswork by ear.
Takeaway: Verify the model and fuel instructions first, then confirm that safety controls and lubrication work before cutting.
Field Cutting and Property-Maintenance Operation
Safe cutting depends on footing, grip, and awareness of how the wood may move. Keep both hands on the saw, maintain a clear retreat path, and use cuts suited to the wood’s tension and compression. If the saw, bar, or escape route behaves unpredictably, stop.
Keep the bar nose clear of the wood. Contact with the upper part of the bar tip can cause rotational kickback in a fraction of a second, pulling the saw toward the operator. Keep the chain brake functional, use a firm two-handed grip, and never cut with an unsecured or dull chain.
Do not cut above shoulder height. Keep stable footing and avoid forcing the chain through a cut. Wood under tension can move as it is cut, so plan the cut and your position before starting. Felling requires training and an understanding of hinge wood, escape paths, and tree movement; do not attempt it when you lack that training or the situation is uncertain.
Illustrative workload comparisons
These are examples for choosing a saw, not reports of measured field tests. They show why the job and condition of the individual saw matter more than a simple ranking by displacement.
| Property task | What to consider | Practical comparison |
|---|---|---|
| Occasional light cleanup | A sharp chain, safe footing, and a sound saw | Any of the three may suit, subject to manual and condition |
| Repeated cuts in larger wood | Engine condition, approved bar length, and chain setup | The 142 has more displacement, but inspect its actual condition |
| Buying a used saw with unclear history | Safety parts, service needs, and replacement-part access | Prefer the verified, serviceable saw over the model name |
Takeaway: Pick a setup that reaches the work safely and stop when the job exceeds the saw or your training.
Maintenance, Chain Sharpening, and Carburetor Service
Routine care helps the saw cut as intended and makes wear easier to spot. Keep the chain sharp and correctly tensioned, clean the bar groove and oil holes, and follow the manual for service intervals and adjustment. Carburetor settings and chain depth-gauge specifications are model- and chain-dependent.
A sharp chain cuts without being forced. Inspect it for damage and sharpen it according to the chain maker’s instructions. Depth gauges, sometimes called rakers, control how much wood each cutter takes. Set them to the chain maker’s specification; there is no safe universal clearance for every chain.
Check chain tension as described in the manual, and inspect the bar groove and oil holes for debris. Clean around the air intake and sprocket cover when needed. Use a tachometer and the correct model-specific information for carburetor tuning. If the saw will not idle properly, runs poorly, or has a safety fault, have it assessed by a qualified service technician rather than bypassing a safety device.
Takeaway: Match sharpening and adjustments to the chain and manual, not to a generic number found online.
Shutdown, Storage, and Seasonal Fuel Care
End each job with the saw secured and clean. Engage the brake, stop the engine, and let it cool away from ignition sources. Fit the bar scabbard for transport. After cooling, clean sawdust from service areas and inspect the chain before storage.
Clean the air-intake area, bar groove, oil holes, and sprocket cover. Check the chain for damage and tension before putting the saw away. Follow the manual’s storage and fuel-care directions, especially when the saw will sit unused for a long period.
Takeaway: A clean, safely stored saw is easier to inspect before its next use.
Frequently asked questions
These answers summarize the key buying and setup points for the three models. Because specifications can vary by market and version, the saw’s identification plate and applicable manual take priority over a general comparison.
Is the Husqvarna 142 more powerful than the 136 and 137?
The 142 has the largest displacement at about 40.2 cc, compared with about 36.3 cc for the 136 and 137. Displacement alone does not confirm real cutting performance; condition, chain, bar, and wood also matter.
Are the Husqvarna 136 and 137 the same size?
They are both approximately 36.3 cc. Confirm the exact version and specifications on the identification plate and in its manual, since model details can vary by market.
Which is best for a homeowner?
Any of the three may suit light property maintenance if it is sound, safe, and correctly set up. Choose based on the specific saw’s condition, parts availability, and the work you need to do.
What bar length should I use?
Use only an approved bar and chain combination for your exact saw. These models are commonly found with bars around 13 to 18 inches, but permitted lengths vary. A shorter approved bar is generally preferable when it safely reaches the work.
Do these saws use the same chain?
Not necessarily. Common setups use 3/8-inch low-profile pitch and 0.050-inch (1.3 mm) gauge, but verify the bar, chain, sprocket, and drive-link count together before ordering.
What fuel mix should I use?
Use 50:1 only with Husqvarna two-stroke oil or oil explicitly approved for that ratio. Use fresh unleaded gasoline of the grade specified in the manual for your saw.
Can I compare them by engine speed?
Not from a general model comparison. Idle and maximum speeds depend on version and condition. Use the exact manual and a tachometer for carburetor service.
Is the 142 a professional felling saw?
These are legacy homeowner saws, not substitutes for professional felling equipment or trained tree-care crews. Complex trees and hazardous conditions need suitable training and equipment.
What should I check on a used saw first?
Confirm its identity and parts setup. Inspect the chain brake, throttle lockout, chain catcher, bar, chain, controls, and lubrication. If possible, observe a start and idle using the manual’s procedure.
Why does a well-maintained 136 or 137 make sense over a 142?
Because the larger displacement does not cancel out poor condition or hard-to-find parts. A verified, serviceable saw with a compatible setup may be the more practical purchase.
Bottom line: The 142 leads in displacement, while the 136 and 137 are closely matched on that measure. For a real buying decision, verify the exact model, inspect condition and safety parts, confirm local parts access, and match the bar and chain to the manual.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Marcus Thorne. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
