Stihl MS 341 vs. 029 (Comparison Test)
The MS 341 has 59.0 cm³ of displacement; the 029 has 56.5 cm³. That small gap does not prove a used MS 341 will cut faster or last longer. For routine firewood and property work, condition, a sharp chain, and the right bar matter more. Choose by verified model, fit, service history, and workload.
If you have both saws open in separate tabs, the numbers can make this seem like an easy decision. It is not. The MS 341 is slightly larger on paper, but these are older saws, and the condition of the specific saw you are considering may matter more than its model name.
My recommendation is to start with fit and condition, then use displacement as a tie-breaker. I would favor a well-maintained 029 over a worn or poorly repaired MS 341. If both are sound and set up for the same work, the MS 341’s modest displacement edge may be useful, but it is not a promise of a clear cutting-speed advantage.
MS 341 vs. 029: What the specifications tell you
Displacement is the volume swept by the engine’s pistons. It is one measure of engine size, not a direct test of cutting speed, pulling power, or reliability. The listed displacement difference between these saws is modest, so it should inform your choice without deciding it.
| Specification | STIHL MS 341 | STIHL 029 |
|---|---|---|
| Engine displacement | 59.0 cm³ | 56.5 cm³ |
| Engine type | Two-stroke | Two-stroke |
| Common chain pitch | 3/8 in. | 3/8 in. |
| Bar range for comparison | 16–20 in., subject to approval | 16–20 in., subject to approval |
| Main buying concern | Condition and correct setup | Model variant and condition |
The 029 has model variants, and details may differ. Confirm the exact model from its identification and serial information, then check the matching STIHL manual. Do not assume a listing, badge, or seller’s description gives you every detail needed to select a bar or chain.
The table shows why displacement alone is a weak way to choose. A sharp, correctly fitted chain can cut more effectively than a dull one, while a worn engine or poor setup can hold either saw back. There is no verified basis here for claiming that every MS 341 outperforms every 029.
Bar and chain compatibility: check the exact saw
A bar and chain must match the powerhead and each other. Pitch is the size used to match the chain to the sprocket and bar; gauge is the thickness of the chain drive links. Drive-link count is the number of links that fit around the bar. All three must be correct.
Both saws commonly use 3/8-inch pitch, but the chain gauge may be .050 or .063 inch, depending on the fitted bar and chain. Read the markings on the bar and identify the chain before buying replacements. Do not assume the two saws take the same chain just because their pitch matches.
A 16–20-inch bar is a useful range for comparing these saws, not a guarantee that every length is approved for every configuration. Check the manual and the maker’s bar-and-chain listing for the exact powerhead. A longer bar puts more load on the saw and raises kickback exposure. Use the shortest approved bar that can safely do the work.
Which saw fits your cutting work?
Both saws are roughly 57–59 cm³ machines suited to routine firewood, property work, and some tree-care cuts when correctly set up. That does not make either saw suitable for every tree or felling job. Tree size, lean, defects, footing, escape routes, operator skill, and site hazards all affect the decision.
| Your situation | What to look for | Practical choice |
|---|---|---|
| Routine firewood with manageable logs | Sound engine, sharp chain, suitable approved bar | Either saw can fit; buy the better-maintained one |
| Frequent cutting with similar setup on both | Service history, compression and running condition, parts and repair needs | Consider the MS 341’s small displacement edge only after condition checks |
| Occasional property cleanup | Safe, dependable operation and a bar that suits the wood | Avoid paying extra for a model name if the 029 is in better condition |
| Large or hazardous tree work | Tree assessment, training, and site-specific controls | Do not choose based on engine size alone; use a qualified arborist where needed |
In comparing used saws, I focus first on whether the controls, chain brake, oiling, and engine behave as they should. A seller’s claim that a saw “cuts anything” tells you little. If possible, have a qualified technician inspect an expensive or uncertain machine before purchase.
Equipment setup and safety preparation
Good setup means the saw is correctly fueled, the chain is properly tensioned, and key safety parts work before cutting begins. A larger engine does not reduce the need for these checks. Follow the manual for the exact model and serial range, and use local rules for the work site.
Before starting, inspect the chain brake, throttle interlock, stop control, handles, chain catcher, chain tension, bar rails, and lubrication. Wear a helmet, eye and hearing protection, chainsaw-protective legwear, gloves, and suitable boots. Set stable footing, keep bystanders away, and identify escape routes before starting.
Use STIHL two-stroke oil at a 50:1 fuel mix, unless the correct manual for your saw directs otherwise. That is 20 mL of oil per 1 L of gasoline. Use fresh fuel of a grade and ethanol content allowed by the manual. Never run straight gasoline or guess the mix from another brand’s instructions.
Follow the manual’s cold- or warm-start steps on stable ground, with the chain brake engaged. Do not drop-start the saw. After it starts, check that the chain stays still at idle, test the brake, and confirm oil reaches the bar and chain. Warm the engine briefly; do not rev it unloaded for a long time.
Field cutting and landscaping operation
Sound cutting practice means controlling the saw and the workpiece, not forcing the engine through a cut. Use a sharp chain, set its tension as the manual directs, and secure wood where practical. Keep a firm two-handed grip and stable stance, and avoid contact with the bar nose.
Rotational kickback can occur when the upper part of the bar nose touches wood or another object. The bar can then rotate rapidly toward the operator. Keep that area clear and do not rely on the chain brake to prevent injury. A brake is a safety feature, not a substitute for safe handling.
For felling, do not use a generic hinge size or felling direction as a rule for every tree. Assess lean, defects, the intended landing area, and escape paths. Workplace logging is covered by OSHA 29 CFR 1910.266; ANSI Z133 applies to arboricultural operations. Follow applicable requirements, and use a qualified arborist for hazardous tree work.
Maintenance, sharpening, and carburetor checks
Routine maintenance helps reveal problems that can affect both cutting and safety. Stop the engine before adjustment or cleaning, and use the manual for service limits. Do not apply a single RPM, raker-clearance, or oil-flow figure to every 029 and MS 341 configuration.
Rakers, also called depth gauges, limit how deeply each cutter bites. Set them to the chain maker’s specification, not a guessed number. Keep cutters sharp and evenly filed. A dull chain can make cutting slow and tiring; do not push harder to make up for it.
Check the bar groove and oil holes, along with the chain, sprocket area, air intake, cover, and fasteners. Confirm oil delivery with the manual’s procedure. For carburetor checks, use the correct manual’s limits and a tachometer. Do not tune by ear or run the chain dry. If the saw idles with the chain moving, stop using it until the cause is corrected.
Used-saw buying checks and seasonal care
A used saw’s value depends on its actual condition and configuration, not just its model and asking price. Before you buy, confirm its identity, look for signs of damage or poor repair, and verify that its fitted bar and chain match the saw. A professional inspection can help when service history is missing.
Ask for a cold start if possible, then observe idle and throttle response without prolonged unloaded revving. Check that the stop control works, the chain brake engages, the chain does not move at idle, and the saw oils the bar. These checks do not replace a technician’s inspection, but they can reveal reasons to pause.
Before transport or clearing chips, stop the engine. Let the saw cool, then clean the intake, cover, bar groove, oil holes, and sprocket area; inspect the bar, chain, and fasteners. Refuel away from ignition sources. For storage and transport, follow the manual for the exact saw.
Final recommendation
The MS 341’s 2.5 cm³ displacement advantage is real but small. It is not enough, by itself, to justify paying more for an unknown or poorly maintained machine. If two saws are in similar condition and use the same approved setup, the MS 341 may be the stronger paper choice. For a used purchase, favor the sounder saw.
Before choosing, confirm the exact model, inspect its condition, and match the bar and chain by pitch, gauge, and drive-link count. Use the manual for fuel, setup, and service limits. If the saw has a safety fault or its history is unclear, get a qualified inspection before putting it to work.
Frequently asked questions
These answers cover the main buying and setup questions that arise when comparing an MS 341 with a 029. Exact fit and service details can vary by model variant and fitted parts, so verify the saw’s identification and use its matching STIHL manual before making changes.
Is the MS 341 more powerful than the 029?
It has more displacement: 59.0 cm³ versus 56.5 cm³. That alone does not prove an individual MS 341 will cut faster than an individual 029.
Are the MS 341 and 029 the same size?
They are close in displacement, but not identical. The 029 is listed at 56.5 cm³ and the MS 341 at 59.0 cm³.
Which saw is better for firewood?
Either can suit routine firewood work when it is in good condition and fitted with an approved bar and chain. Choose based on the saw’s condition and your wood, not displacement alone.
Can I use the same chain on both saws?
Only if each saw’s sprocket and bar match that chain’s pitch, gauge, and drive-link count. Check the markings rather than assuming they are interchangeable.
Is a 20-inch bar safe on either saw?
A 20-inch bar is not automatically approved for every configuration. Check the exact manual and STIHL bar-and-chain listing before fitting or using it.
What fuel mix should I use?
Use STIHL two-stroke oil at 50:1 unless the correct manual for your saw states otherwise. That equals 20 mL of oil per 1 L of gasoline.
Should I buy a 029 Super instead of a 029?
Do not assume that a variant has the same specifications or setup as another 029. Confirm the model identity and consult its manual before buying parts or comparing performance.
What should I check first on a used saw?
Confirm the model, safety controls, chain brake, idle behavior, bar oiling, chain fit, and visible condition. Have a qualified technician inspect it if its history or repair quality is uncertain.
Can I use either saw for tree felling?
The model alone cannot establish that a saw or operator is suited to a specific felling task. Assess the tree and site, follow applicable rules, and use a qualified arborist for hazardous work.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Marcus Thorne. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
