Cutting Ash Hardwood with Chainsaw (Field Test)
A sound field test on ash starts with a sharp, correctly matched chain, fresh fuel at the saw maker’s specified mix, and confirmed bar-oil flow. I check the wood’s support and tension before each cut, then feed steadily without forcing the saw. The test is controlled cutting, not a race: stop if the chain binds, the saw behaves oddly, or the log shifts.
Ash can feel demanding when the chain is dull, the wood is large, or the cut is pinched. A few simple checks often solve the problem without changing the saw or guessing at settings. In the field, I treat each cut as a test of the whole setup: saw, chain, lubrication, wood support, and operator position.
No single bar length, chain pitch, file size, or fuel ratio is right for every saw cutting ash. The saw’s manual and the chain maker’s chart are the specifications to follow. The steps below help you verify them quickly and judge whether the saw is cutting as it should.
Equipment Setup and Safety Preparation
This setup check confirms that the saw, cutting attachment, fuel, and protective gear are ready for work. Ash does not call for a special chain size or a bigger engine by itself. Use the bar and chain approved for your exact saw, and check the log before starting the engine.
Wear a helmet, eye and hearing protection, chainsaw-rated leg protection, gloves, and protective boots. Inspect the chain brake, throttle lockout, chain catcher, controls, bar, chain, and fasteners. Clear bystanders and hazards, check footing, and plan a safe position before cutting.
Match the chain, file, and fuel
Pitch is the spacing between chain rivets; gauge is the thickness of the drive links that sit in the bar groove. Drive-link count and bar mount must also match. A common combination, 3/8-inch low-profile pitch with .050-inch gauge, is not a universal ash setup.
Read the bar markings and saw manual, then confirm the exact chain part number and file chart. File size depends on chain type and cutter design, so do not choose by pitch alone. Keep the file angle and depth-gauge setting specified by the chain maker. A 0.025-inch (0.635 mm) depth-gauge setting is common on some chains, not a blanket setting. Lowering gauges too far can make the chain grab more aggressively and raise kickback risk.
| Check | What to verify | Field decision |
|---|---|---|
| Bar and chain | Approved bar mount, pitch, gauge, and drive-link count | Do not fit a chain that only appears close |
| File | Size and filing angle in the chain maker’s chart | Use that chart, not a guessed angle |
| Fuel | Premix ratio stated in the saw manual | 50:1 only if the saw calls for 50:1 |
| Bar oil | Approved bar-and-chain oil | Fill the oil tank and verify delivery |
| Bar length | Listed as approved for the saw model | Do not fit a longer bar to make ash easier |
For a saw specified for 50:1, use 20 mL of two-cycle oil per 1 L of gasoline. That example does not establish the right mix for another saw. Never use straight gasoline in a two-stroke saw or infer the ratio from its age or brand.
Field Cutting and Landscaping Operation
A useful field test checks whether a properly prepared saw makes controlled cuts in the ash at hand. It does not compare saws by an invented cutting time. Record the wood condition, cut behavior, and any change in the chain or saw, then stop if the setup is unsafe or the result is unclear.
Start and warm the saw as its manual directs, on stable ground with the chain brake engaged. Confirm the chain stays still at idle and that the brake works. Before cutting, check that bar oil reaches the chain using the manufacturer’s method. Idle speed, maximum no-load RPM, and oil flow are model-specific; use the manual and a tachometer where required rather than adjusting by guess.
Keep both hands on the handles, keep your body out of the bar’s plane, and keep the guide-bar nose clear of the wood. Do not cut above shoulder height or start a cut with the bar nose. Let a sharp chain feed with steady pressure; forcing it can cause binding, overheating, or loss of control.
Before every bucking cut, look at how the log rests and where it is under compression or tension. A log under longitudinal compression may split upward suddenly in a barber-chair failure. If you cannot judge or control the load, stop and get a qualified sawyer. Use a planned staged cut or repositioning only when you understand the forces and can do so safely.
| Field observation | What it may indicate | Next step |
|---|---|---|
| Fine dust and slow progress | Chain may be dull or incorrectly sharpened | Stop, inspect cutters, sharpen to the chain chart |
| Saw pulls to one side | Uneven cutter lengths or a damaged chain may be involved | Stop and inspect; do not compensate by twisting |
| Chain stops in the cut | Pinching, poor support, or a dull chain may be involved | Switch off, assess the log, and free the bar safely |
| Chain moves at idle | Idle setting or saw condition needs attention | Stop cutting and follow the manual’s service steps |
| Chain appears dry | Oil tank, oil path, or delivery may need checking | Stop and confirm lubrication before resuming |
These observations are clues, not diagnoses. If the chain binds, shut the saw off before changing the log or freeing the bar. Do not pull a running saw from a trapped cut.
Practical field scenarios
The following are job-site scenarios, not timed test results. They show how I would interpret a cut without claiming that one ash log represents all ash. Species, moisture, diameter, grain, and support can change the effort a cut takes.
- Small, securely supported limb: Check for movement and hidden tension, then make a controlled cut with the nose clear. If a sharp chain feeds smoothly, continue while maintaining a stable stance.
- Large round resting on uneven ground: Reassess support before each cut. The round can roll or pinch the bar as wood is removed; secure or reposition it only with a safe plan.
- Log with a pinched kerf: Stop rather than pushing harder. Determine the compression and tension zones before changing the cut. If you cannot do that safely, leave it to a qualified sawyer.
The useful result is not “ash cuts in a certain number of seconds.” It is whether the saw cuts cleanly without being forced, the chain remains lubricated, and the log stays controlled.
Maintenance, Sharpening, and Tuning
A clean, sharp chain makes the field test easier to judge and reduces the need to force the saw. Maintenance should restore the manufacturer’s intended geometry, not create a more aggressive chain. After a short run, check tension, lubrication, and cutting behavior before deciding that the saw needs tuning.
With the engine off and chain brake released, tension the chain as directed in the manual. Drive links must stay seated in the bar groove, while the chain should pull around by hand with a gloved hand. Recheck after the first cuts and whenever the chain is hot, following the manual’s instructions.
When sharpening, secure the saw, use the specified file size, and keep the maker’s filing angle and cutter-length guidance. Remove damage evenly and check depth gauges against the chain chart. If a cutter is badly chipped, the chain is uneven, or you cannot restore its shape, have it serviced or replace it rather than removing excessive material.
Ash chips and sawdust can pack around the clutch cover, bar groove, and oil inlet. With the saw off and cool, clean those areas and inspect the bar and chain for damage. Check oil delivery again before the next cut. Do not change idle speed or maximum RPM by guesswork; follow model-specific service instructions and use a tachometer where called for.
Storage and Seasonal Care
Storage care protects the chain and cutting attachment between jobs. Let the saw cool in a clear area, switch it off, and follow the manual’s directions for cleaning and fuel storage. A clean bar groove and clear oil inlet make it easier to confirm lubrication at the next start.
After cutting, engage the brake, switch off, and let the saw cool. Inspect chain tension and damage, clean chips from the cover and bar groove, and check the oil inlet. For longer storage, use the manual’s fuel and chain-storage steps; instructions vary by model and fuel system.
Conclusion and FAQ
A dependable ash cut comes from a matched saw and chain, correct fuel, working lubrication, a sharp edge, and a controlled workpiece. Check the manual for all model-specific settings, and stop when the wood’s movement or the saw’s behavior is uncertain. That is a better test than forcing a cut to finish.
What file size should I use for an ash-cutting chain?
Use the file size listed for the exact chain model. Ash does not determine file size, and chain pitch alone is not enough to identify it.
What sharpening angle is right for cutting ash?
Follow the chain maker’s filing chart for the chain type. Do not use a generic angle as a substitute for that specification.
Is 50:1 fuel mix right for every chainsaw?
No. Use 50:1 only when the saw manual specifies it. For that ratio, the mix is 20 mL of two-cycle oil per 1 L of gasoline.
Can I use any chain with the same pitch?
No. Pitch, gauge, drive-link count, and bar mount must all match the saw and bar.
How tight should the chain be?
Follow the saw manual. Drive links must remain seated in the groove, and the chain should pull around by hand with a gloved hand.
Why does my saw make fine dust instead of chips?
A dull or poorly sharpened chain is one possible cause. Stop and inspect the cutters and depth gauges before continuing.
How can I tell if the chain is getting bar oil?
Use the saw maker’s check procedure. Confirm oil delivery before cutting; there is no single universal flow-rate test for all models.
What should I do if the bar pinches in ash?
Switch off the saw and assess the log’s support and tension. Do not force the bar or pull a running saw from the cut.
Can I use a longer bar to cut bigger ash?
Only if that bar length is approved for the saw model. A longer bar increases load and kickback exposure; it is not a general solution.
How often should I recheck chain tension?
Check it after the first cuts and whenever it is hot, using the procedure in the manual. Stop if it loosens or shows damage.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, David Hensley. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
