Tecomec Midi Jolly Chainsaw Sharpener (Field Test)
The Tecomec Midi Jolly is a bench-mounted electric chain grinder, not a chainsaw. A sound field check is whether it holds the chain securely, follows the chain maker’s sharpening geometry, and lets you dress depth gauges to specification. Wheel size and electrical details vary by version, so check the machine’s label and manual before setup.
If your chain is dull, a grinder can restore the cutters with less hand filing, but a wrong setup can remove too much metal or leave uneven edges. The Midi Jolly is straightforward to care for when you keep the wheel, vise, guard, and settings clean and in good condition. The key is to identify the chain first, then set the grinder to match it.
Field-Test Verdict
A field test should judge repeatable setup and safe operation, not cutting performance alone. The Midi Jolly’s value depends on a secure mount, a sound wheel, and settings that match the chain. Without the exact model label and chain chart, there is no reliable universal angle, wheel thickness, or electrical specification to quote.
The main practical advantage of a bench grinder is control: a fixed vise and stop can help keep cutter lengths consistent. The tradeoff is that setup errors repeat across the chain. A chain that fits the vise is not necessarily set up correctly for the wheel or sharpening angles.
The commonly specified wheel size is 145 mm in diameter with a 22 mm arbor. Treat that as a check, not permission to fit any wheel of that size. Its thickness and profile must suit the cutter, and its speed rating must meet or exceed the grinder’s operating speed. Confirm both from the manual and wheel markings.
| Check | What to verify | Field decision |
|---|---|---|
| Model and power | Nameplate voltage and frequency | Use only the supply and setup specified for that version |
| Wheel | Diameter, arbor, profile, thickness, and speed rating | Reject a cracked, chipped, or incompatible wheel |
| Chain | Pitch, maker, and cutter geometry | Use the maker’s chart for vise and angle settings |
| Depth gauges | Chain-specific clearance and gauge tool | Do not use a guessed universal setting |
For an owner who sharpens chains regularly, it can be a useful shop tool if setup is careful. For a one-off touch-up, a hand file may be simpler. The grinder itself cannot tell you whether the selected geometry is right; the chain maker’s instructions do that.
Equipment Setup and Safety Preparation
Before grinding, secure the machine and identify the chain. This step prevents avoidable mistakes: the chain pitch determines the sharpening setup, while chain gauge describes fit between chain and bar. Neither tells you, by itself, which wheel profile or thickness to use.
Mount the grinder on a stable bench using the mounting method in its manual. Check that it cannot shift under normal operating force. Inspect the cord and plug, guard, vise, stop, and wheel. Keep the guard and spark protection in place. Wear safety glasses or a face shield and hearing protection; secure loose clothing and tie back long hair.
Unplug the grinder before setting the vise, adjusting the stop, changing the wheel, or checking alignment. A damaged wheel can fail at high speed and send fragments outward. Never use a cracked, chipped, wet, or wrongly rated wheel, and do not remove the guard to make a setup easier.
Match the wheel and chain
A chain’s pitch and cutter shape guide the vise and wheel setup. Pitch is the spacing used to identify a chain’s size; it does not mean different pitch chains can share one setting. In particular, 3/8-inch low-profile, .325-inch, and standard 3/8-inch chains must not be treated as interchangeable setups.
Read the chain markings or identify the chain by its manufacturer’s method. Then find that chain’s sharpening chart. Set the vise angle, cutter angle, stop, and wheel profile from the chart and the grinder manual. Do not rely on a setting remembered from another chain.
The chain gauge is important for matching chain to bar, but it does not specify grinding-wheel thickness. Before fitting a replacement wheel, compare its dimensions and markings with the manual and confirm its speed rating is suitable for the grinder. Machine voltage, frequency, motor rating, and wheel speed can vary by market or version, so use the nameplate rather than a general online figure.
Practical setup scenarios
These are setup examples, not reports from named customer installations. They show how the same grinder should be checked against different shop conditions.
- Permanent bench: Bolt or clamp the grinder as directed, then check for movement before plugging it in. This is the most repeatable arrangement for routine sharpening.
- Shared or temporary bench: Confirm that the surface is stable and that the grinder’s base cannot slide. If it moves, stop and improve the mounting before use.
- Unknown chain or mixed chains: Do not start by copying the previous vise setting. Identify each chain and reset the grinder from the correct chart.
The next step is a powered-off alignment check. Bring the wheel near the cutter by hand, with the plug removed, and confirm the contact point and stop position before starting the motor.
Field Sharpening Operation and Chain Verification
A controlled grind uses light contact and the same setup across matching cutters. The aim is to restore the cutting edge while avoiding unnecessary material removal. Uneven cutter lengths, blue discoloration, or a changing angle are signs to stop and reassess, not to press harder.
Clean and inspect the chain before clamping it. Look for damaged or badly worn cutters and other defects that may require repair or chain replacement. Set the chain firmly in the vise, with the cutter positioned against the stop. Recheck the first cutter’s alignment with the power disconnected.
Put the guard in place before powering the grinder. Stand clear of the wheel’s plane when starting it, and keep hands away from the wheel and chain pinch points. Use brief, controlled contact. Do not force the wheel into the cutter or hold heavy pressure on it; excess pressure can overheat the cutting edge and damage the chain.
Sharpen each cutter using the chain maker’s specified geometry. Keep the left- and right-hand cutters consistent, and adjust the stop as needed so cutter lengths remain even. Do not assume the opposite side uses the same vise position; follow the grinder and chain instructions. Switch off and wait for the wheel to stop before removing or repositioning the chain.
| Observation | Likely concern | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Cutter turns blue | Excess heat or heavy contact | Stop; review pressure, contact time, and wheel condition |
| Cutter lengths vary | Stop or positioning is inconsistent | Recheck the stop and repeat the setup check |
| Wheel touches the wrong area | Alignment or profile may be wrong | Unplug and verify wheel and vise settings |
| Chain shifts in vise | Clamp is not secure | Stop and reclamp before grinding |
After sharpening, inspect the cutters for consistent edges and lengths. These checks do not replace the chain maker’s specifications. Reinstall the chain on the saw according to the saw manual, then check tension and lubrication as that manual directs. Any cutting check must follow the saw maker’s safe operating procedure and the controls for the work area. Do not infer a saw’s suitability or safety from a grinder test.
Maintenance, Wheel Inspection, and Sharpening Accuracy
Routine checks help the grinder stay predictable. Keep filings out of the vise and moving parts, and inspect the wheel and guard before each use. A clean machine makes it easier to spot damage and helps the chain sit squarely during setup.
Look over the wheel for cracks, chips, or other damage before use. Confirm that it is mounted as instructed and that its rating is suitable for the machine. Never side-load the wheel, use it without the guard, or continue if vibration or unusual noise appears. Switch off, unplug, and let the wheel stop before inspection or adjustment.
Depth gauges, often called rakers, control how far a cutter can bite into the wood. They are not set by eye or by using one clearance for every chain. Use the chain maker’s stated specification and the matching depth-gauge tool. Remove only the amount called for, then check the result with the gauge tool. Excess removal can increase kickback risk.
If a chain needs substantial repair, has damaged links, or cannot be brought to consistent dimensions within the maker’s limits, stop and consult the chain maker’s service guidance or replace it. Grinding is not a fix for every kind of chain damage.
Storage and Seasonal Care
Good storage protects the wheel, electrical parts, and alignment settings between jobs. Let the wheel stop fully, switch off, and unplug the grinder before cleaning or putting it away. Brush away filings without disturbing the wheel or guard.
Keep the machine dry and protect it from impact. Do not store a wheel where it may be struck, dampened, or exposed to conditions barred by its maker. Before the next use, inspect the cord, plug, mounting, guard, vise, and wheel again. If the grinder has been moved, recheck its stability and alignment rather than trusting the old setup.
Write down the chain identification and its verified settings if you sharpen the same chain often. Treat those notes as a starting reference, not a substitute for checking the chain, wheel, and current instructions each time. The next step is always a fresh inspection.
Conclusion and FAQ
The Midi Jolly is best judged by safe, repeatable setup, not by a universal angle or a claimed sharpening speed. Confirm the grinder version, wheel, and chain instructions; clamp securely; use light contact; and set depth gauges with the chain maker’s tool and specification. Those checks are what make the process reliable.
Does the Midi Jolly use a 145 mm wheel?
A commonly specified wheel is 145 mm in diameter with a 22 mm arbor. Confirm the required dimensions, profile, and speed rating in the manual for your exact version.
Can I use one setup for every chain?
No. Pitch and cutter geometry affect setup. Use each chain maker’s chart and do not treat low-profile 3/8-inch, .325-inch, and standard 3/8-inch chains as the same setup.
Does chain gauge tell me which grinding wheel to buy?
No. Chain gauge identifies fit between chain and bar. It does not specify the wheel thickness or profile needed for sharpening.
What sharpening angle should I set?
Use the chain manufacturer’s sharpening chart. There is no single angle that is correct for every chain.
Can I adjust the vise while the grinder is running?
No. Switch off, unplug, and wait for the wheel to stop before adjusting the vise, stop, or chain position.
What should I do if a cutter turns blue?
Stop grinding and check for heavy pressure, long contact, or a wheel problem. Blueing indicates excess heat; do not continue with the same approach.
How do I set the depth gauges?
Use the chain maker’s specification and matching gauge tool. Remove only the amount specified; do not set rakers by eye.
Can I sharpen without the wheel guard?
No. Keep the guard fitted and use a correctly rated, undamaged wheel. A wheel failure can project fragments at high speed.
Do fuel mix or chainsaw settings matter for this test?
No. The Midi Jolly is an electric chain grinder. Fuel mix, engine settings, and bar length apply to a chainsaw, not this sharpener.
What should I check before storing it?
Switch off, unplug, wait for the wheel to stop, clean away filings, and inspect the wheel, guard, and cord. Store the machine dry and protected from impact.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, David Hensley. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
