What Is Skip Tooth Chain Spacing? (Pitch & Links)
A skip-tooth chain has fewer cutters spaced farther apart than a full-complement chain. “Skip” describes the cutter pattern; it does not change chain pitch, gauge, or drive-link count requirements. To choose a compatible chain, match its pitch to the saw’s sprockets, its gauge to the bar groove, and its drive-link count to the exact bar.
Trying to tell whether “skip” means a different chain size? It doesn’t. The term describes how often cutters appear along the chain. I find it helps to separate two ideas: the chain’s size and fit, and its cutter spacing. A skip pattern changes the second, not the first.
What Skip-Tooth Chain Spacing Means
Skip-tooth spacing is the distance between cutters in the chain’s repeating pattern. A skip chain has fewer cutters than a full-complement chain of the same basic size. The chain still has to fit the saw’s drive sprocket and guide bar exactly.
A chainsaw chain is a loop of connected links. Some links carry sharp cutters; others help connect and guide the chain. In a full-complement chain, cutters appear more often. In a skip chain, they are spaced farther apart, leaving more room between cutting teeth for chips to clear.
“Full skip” and “semi-skip” describe different cutter patterns, but the exact layout can vary by chain design. Don’t choose a chain by applying a general rule about how many links sit between cutters. Check the chain maker’s description or part number to confirm the pattern.
Most important, skip spacing is not pitch. Pitch is a size measurement based on the rivets that join the links. A chain can have skip spacing and still be .325-inch pitch or 3/8-inch pitch, for example.
Pitch, Gauge, and Drive Links: What Must Match
Pitch, gauge, and drive-link count are the key fit measurements. Pitch must match the saw’s drive sprocket and the bar’s nose sprocket. Gauge must match the groove in the bar. Drive-link count must match the exact bar and saw setup.
| Measurement | What it means | Common examples | What it must match |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pitch | Half the distance from the center of one rivet to the center of the third rivet in a row | .325 in.; 3/8 in. | Drive sprocket and bar nose sprocket |
| Gauge | Thickness of the drive link, the part that rides in the bar groove | .050 in. (1.3 mm); .058 in. (1.5 mm) | Bar groove |
| Drive links (DL) | Number of lower tangs that sit in the bar groove | Varies by chain and bar | Specification for the exact bar |
| Cutter pattern | How cutters are spaced around the chain | Full-complement; skip or semi-skip patterns | Chain type recommended for the saw and task |
How to find the right chain specification
The drive links are the small projecting parts along the bottom edge of the chain. Count those links, not the cutters. The number of cutters is different and changes with the chain pattern.
Look for the chain specification on the bar, saw, existing chain, or in the owner’s manual. If those sources disagree or the markings are worn, use the saw and bar model numbers to confirm the correct chain with the manufacturer or a qualified dealer. Bar length alone does not tell you the drive-link count.
A bar’s usable length also does not prove that it is approved for your powerhead. Use only a bar length and chain approved for the exact saw. There is no universal bar-length-to-engine-size formula that can safely replace the manufacturer’s guidance.
Why pitch and gauge cannot be “close enough”
A chain with the wrong pitch may not engage the sprockets correctly. A chain with the wrong gauge may sit poorly in the bar groove. Either mismatch can harm the parts or make the chain track badly.
Skip chain does not fix a mismatch. It needs the same careful fit check as any other chain. Never mix parts based on appearance or force a chain that does not fit.
Skip-Tooth Chain Setup: Pitch, Gauge, Drive Links & Safety
Setting up a skip chain means checking the whole cutting system, not just the cutter pattern. Confirm the approved bar, chain, sprockets, pitch, gauge, and drive-link count before fitting it. Then inspect the chain and bar, install and tension the chain as the manual directs, and check that it moves correctly.
Fit-check example
Consider a saw owner replacing a worn chain with a skip chain. The owner confirms the saw’s approved bar, then checks the bar’s pitch, gauge, and drive-link count against the new chain’s markings. Only after those details match does the owner verify that the chain is a skip pattern suitable for the saw and intended cutting.
This is an illustrative check, not a universal part recommendation. Two bars with the same listed length may call for different drive-link counts. Use the exact bar specification rather than copying a number from another saw.
Installation and pre-start checks
With the engine off, follow the manual’s steps for fitting the bar and chain. Keep hands away from cutter edges and wear chainsaw-rated protective equipment. The manual will say when to engage or release the chain brake during installation; don’t force the chain against a locked brake.
Set chain tension as directed. The drive links should sit in the bar groove, and the chain should not hang loose from the bar. Before checking movement by hand, release the brake only as the manual instructs, with the engine off and gloves on. The chain should move freely without binding.
Before starting, also check the chain catcher, bar rails, drive sprocket, and brake. Use the manual’s cold- or warm-start steps. Verify chain lubrication and brake operation using the manufacturer’s procedure.
A chain that loosens, rattles, or tracks poorly may come off the bar at speed. Stop immediately and shut off the saw. Wrong drive-link count, mismatched pitch or gauge, loose tension, worn rails or sprocket, or a damaged drive link can all contribute. Find and correct the cause before restarting.
Field Cutting: Choosing and Using Skip Chain
Skip chain is a cutter-pattern choice, not a way to make a saw more powerful. The wider gaps between cutters can help chips clear in some cutting conditions. But fewer cutters also means each cutter may take a larger share of the work, so the chain can feel more aggressive. Results depend on the saw, chain, wood, and how the chain is maintained.
A skip chain is often considered for longer bars or chip clearance, but that does not make an unapproved bar safe for a smaller saw. The powerhead maker’s approved bar and chain list remains the deciding guide.
| Situation | What to check | Practical decision |
|---|---|---|
| Replacing a chain on the same bar | Pitch, gauge, drive-link count, and cutter pattern | Match the bar and saw specifications, not just the old chain’s appearance |
| Considering skip chain for a longer bar | Approved bar length, powerhead, sprockets, and chain specification | Use only a manufacturer-approved combination |
| Chips seem to pack around cutters | Chain pattern, sharpness, wood, and cutting method | Confirm whether the maker approves skip chain for the setup |
| Chain feels rough or pulls unevenly | Cutter condition, tension, bar groove, and sprocket | Stop and inspect before continuing |
When cutting, use a stable stance and a two-handed grip. Keep the bar nose clear of objects, since contact there can cause kickback. Don’t force the chain through the wood. Consider the wood’s lean and the risk of pinching, overhead hazards, bystanders, and a clear escape route before starting a cut.
The right choice is not simply “skip for long cuts” or “full-complement for short cuts.” Match the chain to the saw, bar, task, and manufacturer’s guidance.
Chain Maintenance, Sharpening & Inspection
Maintenance keeps the chain cutting as intended and helps reveal problems before the next cut. Skip and full-complement chains both need proper lubrication, tension, and sharp cutters. Sharpening angles and service limits depend on the specific chain, so use its instructions rather than assuming one setting fits all.
After use, shut off the saw, engage the brake as directed, and allow hot parts to cool. Check chain tension and inspect cutters, links, drive links, bar rails, sprocket, and oiling system. Clean away chips and resin, and follow the manual’s instructions for retensioning.
Do not sharpen by guessing at an angle or changing cutter shape to create a skip pattern. Do not grind cutters off a standard chain to make it a skip chain. That can damage links and leave unsafe chain geometry. Buy a chain made in the required pattern.
Fuel-oil mix, idle speed, maximum engine speed, lubrication needs, and sharpening angles are model-specific. In particular, do not assume a universal 50:1 fuel mix or a single RPM setting. Check the saw and chain manuals for the correct values.
Storage and Seasonal Care
Good storage limits avoidable wear and helps you spot damage before the next use. Clean the chain and bar, protect the chain as the manual directs, and store them in a dry, secure place away from children. Before putting the saw away, follow its instructions for fuel and seasonal storage.
Before using a stored chain, inspect it again for rust, damaged links, and dull or chipped cutters. Confirm the chain still matches the bar and sprocket, and check tension and lubrication before cutting. Storage does not replace a fit check.
Conclusion
Skip-tooth spacing means fewer cutters placed farther apart than on a full-complement chain. It does not change the requirements for pitch, gauge, or drive-link count. Match those measurements to the exact saw, sprockets, and bar, then confirm the chain pattern is appropriate and approved. If the chain loosens or tracks poorly, stop and diagnose the fit or wear before using the saw again.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does skip-tooth chain have a different pitch?
No. Skip-tooth describes cutter spacing, not pitch. A skip chain still has a specific pitch that must match the saw’s drive sprocket and the bar nose sprocket.
Does skip chain have fewer drive links?
Not necessarily. Drive-link count depends on the chain loop and the exact bar setup. Count the drive links and match the number specified for the bar; do not infer it from the cutter count.
What is the difference between skip and full-complement chain?
A full-complement chain has cutters spaced more frequently. A skip chain has fewer cutters with more space between them. The chain’s pitch and gauge can be the same in either pattern.
What do “full skip” and “semi-skip” mean?
They refer to different cutter-spacing patterns. The exact pattern can vary by chain design, so check the chain manufacturer’s description instead of relying on a generic link-count rule.
Can I choose a chain by bar length alone?
No. Bar length does not determine pitch, gauge, or drive-link count on its own. Check the specifications for the exact bar and confirm that the bar is approved for your saw.
Can I use skip chain on any chainsaw?
No. The chain must match the saw’s sprockets and bar, and the bar and chain must be approved for the powerhead. Check the owner’s manual or confirm the exact model specifications with the manufacturer.
Does skip chain make a small saw suitable for a longer bar?
No. A skip pattern does not add power or approve a longer bar. Use only the bar lengths and chain combinations listed for the saw.
Can I make skip chain by removing cutters?
No. Grinding cutters off a standard chain can damage links and create unsafe chain geometry. Use a chain manufactured in the required skip pattern.
What should I do if the chain comes loose or tracks poorly?
Stop cutting and shut off the saw. Check for the correct drive-link count, pitch, gauge, tension, damaged drive links, and worn bar rails or sprocket. Correct the cause before restarting.
Are sharpening angles the same for every skip chain?
No. Sharpening angles and other settings depend on the chain and saw model. Use the chain and powerhead manuals rather than assuming a universal angle or engine setting.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Evan Bradley. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
