What Is A Silky Bigboy Saw (Kerf & TPI)
The Silky Bigboy is a folding, hand-powered pruning saw with a 360 mm blade on Bigboy 2000 models. Silky lists tooth spacing per 30 mm: Large is about 5.5 TPI, Medium 7.2 TPI, and Fine 11 TPI. TPI describes tooth spacing, not cut width. Kerf is the material removed, and it is not the same as blade thickness.
If a manual or product listing mentions “kerf” or “TPI,” the terms can sound more complicated than they are. For a Bigboy, the useful questions are simple: which tooth spacing suits the cut, how wide a cut does the saw make, and how do you use it without binding the blade?
There is no engine to install or fuel to mix. The main setup task is to open the blade, lock it securely, and check that the saw is in good condition. I teach tool terms by separating what a specification measures from what it does not. That matters here: the Bigboy’s listed blade thickness is not a published kerf measurement.
What is a Silky Bigboy saw?
The Silky Bigboy is a folding pruning saw designed for hand cutting. Bigboy 2000 models have a 360 mm (14.2 in) blade, and the saw cuts on the pull stroke. Silky offers blades with different tooth spacings, so the right version depends on the wood and the finish you need.
Unlike a chainsaw, the Bigboy has no motor, chain, bar, or engine settings. You guide the blade by hand and let its teeth do the cutting. Its folding design lets the blade close into the handle for carrying and storage, but the blade must be fully locked before use.
“Bigboy” can refer to a product family, and specifications may vary by model or replacement blade. Before you order a blade or compare figures, check the exact model name and the markings or details on the product listing. In particular, confirm blade length and tooth spacing rather than assuming every Bigboy uses the same blade.
What do kerf and TPI mean on a Bigboy?
TPI means teeth per inch and describes how closely the teeth are spaced. Kerf means the width of material removed by a cut. They are different measurements: TPI helps describe the blade’s cutting character, while kerf concerns the cut itself. Silky publishes tooth spacing per 30 mm, not a guaranteed kerf width.
Silky’s listed tooth spacing can be converted to approximate TPI by multiplying the teeth-per-30-mm figure by 25.4 and dividing by 30. The resulting TPI values are rounded, so treat them as convenient comparisons, not a separate manufacturer specification.
The Bigboy 2000 is commonly listed with a blade thickness of 1.3 mm. That number measures the blade plate, not the full width of the cut. Teeth may extend beyond the blade plate, and the cut can also vary with tooth set, blade condition, cutting angle, and wood. So you cannot reliably calculate kerf by treating 1.3 mm as the cut width.
| Silky tooth option | Published spacing | Approximate TPI | General use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Large | 6.5 teeth per 30 mm | 5.5 TPI | Faster cutting in larger green wood |
| Medium | 8.5 teeth per 30 mm | 7.2 TPI | General pruning and mixed use |
| Fine | 13 teeth per 30 mm | 11 TPI | Smaller or harder wood, or a smoother cut |
These are tooth-spacing figures, not kerf values. If the exact width of a cut matters for a particular job, check the manufacturer’s information for that exact blade or make a test cut in similar wood. Do not use blade thickness as a substitute.
Which Bigboy tooth spacing should you choose?
Tooth spacing affects how the saw engages with wood. Coarser teeth generally suit faster cutting in larger green wood; finer teeth can suit smaller or harder wood and cuts where a smoother surface matters. These are practical guidelines, not a promise of a particular cut speed or finish.
| Your cutting situation | A sensible starting choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Larger branch of green wood | Large | Coarser spacing is intended for faster work in larger green wood |
| Routine pruning across varied branches | Medium | A general-purpose option for mixed pruning |
| Smaller branch or harder wood | Fine | Finer spacing suits smaller or harder wood and smoother cuts |
| Unsure which cut you will make most | Medium, if suitable for your model | It is the general-use option; check the product details before buying |
The branch size alone does not tell the whole story. Wood type, whether it is green or dry, the cut’s position, and the finish you want all affect the choice. When comparing blades, use Silky’s own “Large,” “Medium,” and “Fine” labels and the published spacing. Don’t assume “more TPI” means a wider cut or that it will always cut faster.
If you already own a Bigboy, identify its blade before purchasing a replacement. Confirm that the replacement is made for your exact model and check the tooth option. A tooth-spacing choice is useful only if the blade fits the saw.
Silky Bigboy setup, blade lock, and safety checks
Before cutting, inspect the blade, teeth, pivot, handle, and locking mechanism. Open the blade to the position you need, lock it fully, and confirm it is secure. Wear eye protection and gloves, check your footing and escape route, and look for overhead hazards or branches under tension.
The Bigboy’s folding action makes the lock an essential part of setup. Do not cut with a partly open, unlocked, loose, or damaged blade. If the lock will not hold securely, stop and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for inspection or repair; do not try to compensate by changing how you hold or force the saw.
Before you start, consider what the branch may do as it separates. A bent or loaded branch can move suddenly, and its cut can close around the blade. Keep bystanders clear, support the work where appropriate, and avoid positions where a moving branch could strike you or knock you off balance. For large, suspended, or hazardous limbs, seek qualified help.
Field cutting: choosing teeth and controlling the kerf
The Bigboy cuts on the pull stroke. Start with light, controlled pulls to establish a path, then use smooth strokes along the blade. Let the teeth cut instead of forcing the saw. A steady stroke helps keep the blade aligned and reduces the chance of binding or damaging it.
- Set the branch and your stance. Make sure you can reach the cut without overextending. Keep the work supported so it will not pinch the blade as the cut opens or closes.
- Start gently. Use short, light pull strokes to begin a groove. This initial kerf gives the blade a path to follow.
- Use smooth strokes. Once the blade tracks in the groove, use controlled strokes along the blade. Avoid twisting it from side to side.
- Ease off near the end. As the branch is about to separate, reduce pressure and control the final strokes. This can help reduce tearing or sudden binding.
- Stop if the blade binds. Do not wrench or twist a trapped saw. A branch under tension may be closing the cut; reassess the branch’s load and movement before continuing.
The kerf is the opening left by the cut, but its exact width is not set by the tooth-spacing figure alone. If the blade starts to bind, forcing it is not a way to make the kerf wider safely. Pause and assess whether the branch is shifting or pinching the blade. A loaded branch may need a suitable cut sequence or professional handling.
Real-world cutting examples
These examples show how to apply the tooth-spacing guidance; they are not performance tests or guarantees. The right blade still depends on the exact wood and job.
- A larger, green branch during routine pruning: Large is the relevant option to consider because Silky describes coarse spacing for faster work in larger green wood. Keep the blade straight and the branch supported.
- Several types of ordinary pruning: Medium is the general-purpose choice when the work varies. It does not remove the need to check the branch and choose a safe cutting position.
- A smaller branch or harder wood where the finish matters: Fine may be the better match. Use controlled strokes and avoid forcing a finer-toothed blade through the cut.
Cleaning, inspection, and blade care
After use, remove sap and debris, dry the blade, and check the teeth, pivot, and lock. Clean, dry storage helps limit corrosion and keeps residue from building up around moving parts. Follow the care directions for your exact saw and blade; avoid guessing at sharpening methods if the instructions do not support them.
Before the next use, look for damage, loose parts, or a lock that no longer holds securely. A dull, damaged, or dirty blade may cut poorly, but extra force is not a safe fix. If you are unsure whether a blade can be maintained or needs replacement, consult Silky’s guidance or a qualified dealer.
Safe folding, storage, and blade care
When the cut is complete, close the blade carefully and make sure it is latched for storage. Keep the folded saw protected from impacts that could damage the blade or teeth. Store it dry, and check its condition before the next job, especially after long periods in storage.
Do not fold the blade while it is trapped in wood or under pressure. First make sure the cut is finished and the blade can move freely. If a branch has pinched it, focus on the branch’s movement and release the pressure safely rather than twisting the saw. For a hazardous or heavily loaded limb, get qualified help.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Bigboy a chainsaw?
No. It is a manually operated folding pruning saw that cuts with a toothed blade on the pull stroke.
What is the Bigboy 2000 blade length?
Bigboy 2000 models have a 360 mm (14.2 in) blade. Confirm the exact model before buying a replacement.
What is the Bigboy’s TPI?
Silky lists tooth spacing per 30 mm. The approximate conversions are Large 5.5 TPI, Medium 7.2 TPI, and Fine 11 TPI.
What does TPI tell me?
TPI means teeth per inch. It describes tooth spacing, which helps you compare the blade options; it does not give the kerf width.
What is the kerf of a Silky Bigboy?
Kerf is the width of material removed. Do not infer an exact Bigboy kerf from blade thickness or tooth spacing; it can vary with tooth set, blade condition, cutting angle, and wood.
Is the 1.3 mm blade thickness the kerf?
No. The 1.3 mm figure commonly listed for Bigboy 2000 models is blade thickness, not a guaranteed measurement of the cut width.
Which tooth option is best for general pruning?
Medium is Silky’s general-use option. Choose based on the wood and cut, and confirm that the blade suits your exact model.
Should I push or pull the Bigboy?
Use controlled pull strokes. Start lightly, then make smooth strokes and let the teeth cut rather than forcing the blade.
What should I do if the blade gets stuck?
Stop and assess whether the branch is closing the kerf or shifting. Do not twist or force the saw. Release pressure safely, and get qualified help for hazardous or heavily loaded branches.
How should I store the saw after cutting?
Remove sap and debris, dry the blade, fold and latch it, and store it protected from impact and moisture.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Evan Bradley. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
