Switching Chain from .050 to .063 (Fitment Guide)
To change from a .050-inch chain to .063-inch, replace the bar and chain as a matched set. The new chain must also match the saw’s pitch, drive sprocket, bar nose, and exact drive-link count. Check that the saw maker approves the bar and chain, then inspect tension, oiling, brake, and fit before starting.
Chainsaw owners have long swapped bars and chains to suit different cutting jobs. The key is keeping every fitment detail matched. A thicker drive link does not make a chain a drop-in upgrade, and a bar’s stated length alone cannot tell you which chain fits.
I check the bar stamp and the saw’s fitment chart before ordering parts. That small step prevents a common garage mistake: finding that the new chain will not seat, or that the saw cannot safely use the chosen setup. Use the guide below to confirm the parts before you install them.
What changes when you move from .050-inch to .063-inch gauge?
Chain gauge is the thickness of each drive link, the part of the chain that sits inside the bar groove. The groove must match that thickness. Changing gauge therefore means using a .063-inch bar with a .063-inch chain, while also confirming pitch, drive-link count, and saw approval.
A .063-inch chain will not fit correctly in a .050-inch bar groove. It may bind or fail to seat. A .050-inch chain in a .063-inch groove can move side to side more than intended. Either mismatch can damage parts or lead to a derailment. Do not force the chain, widen a groove, or grind drive links to make parts fit.
Gauge is only one part of the match. Pitch is the spacing of the chain’s links, and it must match both the drive sprocket and the bar nose. For example, 3/8-inch low-profile chain is not interchangeable with standard 3/8-inch chain, even though both are marked 3/8-inch. Drive-link count is the number of links that engage with the bar and sprocket. Use the count listed for the exact replacement bar.
| Check | What must match | Where to verify |
|---|---|---|
| Gauge | .063-inch chain and .063-inch bar groove | Bar stamp and chain package |
| Pitch | Chain, drive sprocket, and bar nose | Saw manual, bar marking, parts chart |
| Drive-link count | Exact count for the replacement bar | Bar maker’s fitment chart |
| Bar and chain type | Approved for the saw model and power output | Saw maker’s manual or parts lookup |
A longer bar or thicker chain is not automatically suitable for a saw. A .063-inch setup can increase cutting load. Follow the saw maker’s approved bar lengths and chain types. If the saw or bar maker does not list the proposed combination, do not assume it is compatible.
Takeaway: Buy the bar and chain as a matched pair, then confirm that both suit the saw.
Equipment Setup & Safety Prep
A safe conversion starts with the right parts and a stopped, cool saw. Before removing the old bar, check the manual and the replacement bar’s fitment information. Then inspect the sprocket, clutch area, bar mount, chain brake, and oiling parts so worn or damaged pieces do not undermine the new setup.
Use this check before installation:
- Shut off the saw, let it cool, engage the chain brake, and remove the bar cover.
- Confirm the replacement bar fits the saw’s mount and is approved for that model.
- Read the bar’s gauge and pitch markings. Verify the chain package lists the same gauge and pitch.
- Confirm the drive-link count from the replacement bar’s exact model or fitment chart. Do not estimate from bar length.
- Check the drive sprocket for wear or damage. Its pitch must match the chain.
- Inspect the clutch area, bar rails, oil ports, and chain brake. Replace damaged parts rather than trying to compensate during installation.
- Wear suitable PPE for any later test or cutting: helmet with eye and face protection, hearing protection, chainsaw-rated leg protection, gloves, and boots. Check footing, overhead hazards, escape routes, and bystanders before cutting. Follow the saw manual and workplace rules, including OSHA 29 CFR 1910.266 where applicable.
Here are two common fitment situations. These are examples, not universal parts recommendations:
| Situation | What to check | Correct decision |
|---|---|---|
| The new chain is .063-inch, but the current bar is stamped .050-inch | Bar groove gauge | Do not install that chain on the current bar. Get an approved .063-inch bar and matching chain. |
| A .063-inch bar fits the saw mount, but its chain has a different pitch from the sprocket | Pitch at bar nose, chain, and sprocket | Do not run it. Choose a compatible bar, chain, and sprocket combination approved for the saw. |
With the new parts selected, remove the old chain and bar according to the manual. Fit the new bar, route the chain in the correct direction, and seat every drive link in the groove and sprocket. Adjust tension using the saw maker’s method. The chain should be seated and tensioned as specified, not pulled tight by guesswork.
With the engine off and gloves on, move the chain by hand as the manual directs. It should travel smoothly, without binding, and remain properly seated as you rotate it. Refit the cover and tighten its fasteners to the model-specific specification. There is no universal bar-mount torque value, so do not borrow one from another saw.
Takeaway: If a link will not seat cleanly, the chain binds, or tension will not hold, stop and recheck the parts.
Field Cutting & Landscaping Operation
After installation, confirm the saw operates normally before cutting. A correct gauge match does not by itself prove that the chain oils, the brake works, or the setup is suitable for the job. Follow the saw’s starting and testing procedures, and stop if you see binding, poor lubrication, or chain movement at idle.
Before the first cut:
- Check tension again after fitting the cover and rotating the chain.
- Check oil delivery using the manufacturer’s procedure. Do not rely on a generic oil-flow rate.
- Start the saw on stable ground, with the chain clear, using the correct cold- or warm-start steps.
- Confirm the chain does not move at idle. Test the chain brake as directed in the manual.
- Make a cautious test cut only if the saw runs normally and the setup is approved.
The thicker gauge is not a cure for a dull chain, poor technique, or an unsuitable bar length. Use a sharp chain and stay within the saw’s power and cutting limits. If the chain stops, binds, or derails, shut the saw down and inspect it. Do not continue cutting to see whether the problem clears.
Fuel and operating settings remain model-specific. Use the fuel-oil ratio, bar oil, idle speed, and maximum engine speed specified by the saw maker. Many saws use a 50:1 fuel ratio, but that is not universal. Do not change carburetor settings or use a generic RPM figure because the bar or chain gauge changed.
Takeaway: Test the complete saw, not just the chain fit, before returning to work.
Maintenance, Sharpening & Tuning
A .063-inch gauge does not set the sharpening angle or depth-gauge height. Those details depend on the exact chain. Identify the chain by its markings or package, then use its maker’s sharpening instructions for file size, filing angle, and depth-gauge setting.
A chain that cuts slowly or burns wood may be dull, incorrectly sharpened, or poorly tensioned. Check these before blaming the new gauge. Use the file size and angles stated for the chain model; do not assume the old chain’s file will suit the replacement. Set depth gauges, often called rakers, to the chain maker’s specification. A .025-inch setting is common on some chains, but it is not a universal setting. Incorrect depth-gauge height can make the chain cut poorly or increase kickback risk.
Keep the bar groove and oil passages clear. Inspect the bar rails for damage and the sprocket for wear. Follow the manual for bar care, rotation, and replacement. If the chain no longer seats properly or the bar is damaged, replace the affected part rather than altering it.
There is no universal chain tension, bar-mount torque, idle speed, or oil-flow test that applies to every saw. Use the instructions for your saw, bar, and chain. Recheck tension during use as the manual directs, especially after fitting a new chain.
Takeaway: Gauge identifies drive-link thickness; it does not replace the chain maker’s sharpening and setup instructions.
Storage & Seasonal Care
When the saw is parked, clean the bar groove and oil passages as directed, then inspect the chain and bar before storage. A clean, correctly matched setup is easier to check when you return to it. Keep the bar and chain information with the saw so you can confirm fitment when ordering replacements.
After the first work session with the new setup, shut off the saw and allow it to cool. Recheck chain tension and look for signs of abnormal wear, binding, or poor oiling. If the chain has shifted, cannot hold tension, or shows damage, do not restart until you find the cause.
Store fuel and prepare the saw according to its manual. Fuel handling and storage instructions vary by product and local rules. Do not assume a new bar or chain changes the required fuel mix or storage procedure.
Takeaway: Record the bar model, gauge, pitch, and chain drive-link count for the next parts order.
Conclusion and FAQ
A successful gauge change is a full fitment check, not a chain-only swap. Pair a .063-inch chain with a .063-inch bar groove, then confirm pitch, drive-link count, sprocket, bar nose, saw approval, tension, and oiling. If any part does not match or the chain does not move freely, stop before starting the saw.
Can I run a .063-inch chain on my .050-inch bar?
No. The chain gauge must match the bar groove. Use a compatible .063-inch bar and chain.
Can I run a .050-inch chain in a .063-inch bar groove?
No. The chain may have excess side-to-side movement. Use parts with matching gauge.
Does a .063-inch chain fit every saw that accepts the same bar length?
No. Bar length does not establish fitment. Check the approved bar, pitch, drive-link count, mount, and saw model.
How do I find the correct drive-link count?
Use the exact replacement bar’s marking or the bar maker’s fitment chart. Do not estimate from bar length.
Does chain pitch have to match the bar?
Yes. Chain pitch must match the bar nose and drive sprocket. Check all three.
Can I install a .063-inch chain if the saw maker does not list it?
Do not assume it is safe or suitable. Use only bar lengths and cutting attachments approved for the saw model and power output.
Can I widen my .050-inch bar groove?
No. Do not alter the bar or grind drive links to force a fit. Replace parts with the correct matched components.
Is .025 inch the correct depth-gauge setting for every chain?
No. That setting is common for some chains, but use the specification for the exact chain model.
Does changing gauge change the fuel mix?
No. Use the fuel-oil ratio specified by the saw maker. A 50:1 ratio is common, but not universal.
What if the new chain binds or will not hold tension?
Stop. Recheck gauge, pitch, drive-link count, installation, and part condition. Do not run the saw until the problem is corrected.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, David Hensley. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
