Stihl Picco vs. Rapid Super Chain (Field Test)
Picco and Rapid Super are not interchangeable chains, even when both are marked 3/8-inch. Picco is a low-profile system commonly used on compatible saws; Rapid Super is a standard-profile, full-chisel chain for approved setups. Which cuts faster depends on the saw, wood, chain condition, and match to the bar and sprocket. Verify compatibility before comparing performance.
A chain can look like a modest upgrade on a spec sheet and still be the wrong choice for your saw. The useful comparison is not simply “which chain is faster?” It is which chain your saw is designed to run, and how each performs under the same cutting conditions.
There is an efficiency angle, too: a sharp, correctly matched chain can avoid wasted effort and unnecessary re-cutting. But I won’t attach a fuel-saving figure to that without measured data. The technical details matter more than the label.
One limit needs to be clear: no specific saw, bar, wood, or timed-cut results are provided here. I will not invent field-test times. Instead, this guide separates verified system differences from the controlled test you can use to compare compatible setups.
What Picco and Rapid Super mean
Picco identifies STIHL’s low-profile chain family, while Rapid Super, often marked RS, identifies a standard-profile full-chisel chain. Pitch alone does not make them interchangeable. Their cutters, drive links, bar grooves, and intended saw setups differ, so begin with the equipment markings rather than a performance claim.
Picco chains are made for compatible low-profile systems, often found on lower-powered saws and narrower-kerf setups. “Narrow kerf” means the chain removes a narrower strip of wood, but the exact chain and bar determine the cut width. Picco includes different chain designs, so its name alone does not specify cutter shape or performance.
Rapid Super is a standard-profile, full-chisel chain. Full-chisel cutters have square-cornered cutting edges and can cut aggressively in clean wood when sharp. They are generally less tolerant of dirt and dulling than rounder-corner cutter designs. That is a practical tradeoff, not a promise that RS will be faster in every wood or on every saw.
The terms “low profile” and “standard profile” describe chain geometry. They do not tell you whether a chain fits your machine. Check pitch, gauge, drive-link count, bar groove, and sprocket as a complete system.
Compatibility: check before you buy
A correct fit requires the chain to match the bar and drive sprocket, as well as the saw’s approved chain type. Read the markings on the bar and consult the saw’s operator manual. Do not choose by pitch alone, or use a general engine-size rule to select a bar length.
Record these three bar details before ordering:
- Pitch: The chain’s size class, such as 3/8-inch P (Picco) or standard 3/8-inch.
- Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that sit in the bar groove. Common Picco examples include .043, .050, and .063 inch, depending on the specific system. Standard 3/8-inch RS commonly pairs with .050- or .063-inch gauge. These examples are not interchangeable specifications.
- Drive-link count: The number of links that fit around that exact bar. There is no universal count for a given bar length.
Then confirm that the sprocket is specified for that chain system and that the saw manual permits the bar and chain. A nominal 3/8-inch marking is not enough: 3/8-inch P and standard 3/8-inch refer to different chain systems.
Match-check examples
These examples show what to verify, not a fit recommendation for an unnamed saw. The actual part markings and the operator manual take priority. A single mismatch can prevent correct installation or operation, so confirm every field before ordering a replacement chain.
| Check | Picco example | Rapid Super example |
|---|---|---|
| Chain profile | 3/8-inch low profile, marked P | Standard 3/8-inch |
| Example gauges | .043, .050, or .063 inch, by system | Commonly .050 or .063 inch, by system |
| Drive links | Must match the exact bar | Must match the exact bar |
| Sprocket | Must be approved for the Picco setup | Must be approved for standard 3/8-inch |
| Saw approval | Confirm in the operator manual | Confirm in the operator manual |
If the bar marking is worn or unclear, do not guess. Find the saw and bar model information, then confirm the approved chain specification with the manual or a qualified STIHL dealer.
What a fair field comparison can show
A useful field test holds the saw, wood, cut geometry, chain sharpness, and lubrication as constant as possible. It records cut time and observations rather than relying on feel alone. If the saw cannot safely and correctly run both chain systems, a direct comparison on that saw is not valid.
To compare cutting speed, control, chip clearance, and durability, I would first verify that the test equipment is approved for each chain. If the saw has a different bar or sprocket for each system, those parts become part of the comparison. Do not force a chain onto a mismatched setup to keep the saw unchanged.
Use the same wood species and similar moisture, diameter, and cut direction. Make repeatable cuts with the same chain condition and sharpening standard. Record each cut’s time, then inspect the chips, chain temperature, and cutter condition. Note any change in feed pressure or control; do not push harder just to improve a time.
| Metric | What to record | What it can tell you |
|---|---|---|
| Cut time | Time for repeated, comparable cuts | Relative speed in those conditions |
| Feed effort | Whether normal pressure is enough | Whether a chain seems to pull or bog |
| Chip shape | Coarse chips, fine dust, or mixed debris | A clue to sharpness and cutting quality |
| Heat and oiling | Visible oil delivery and unusual heat | Possible lubrication or setup problem |
| Cutter wear | Damage, dulling, or uneven cutters | Durability in the tested wood |
There is no verified cut-time result to report here because no saw model, bar setup, wood sample, or test data were supplied. The responsible conclusion is conditional: a sharp RS chain can be aggressive in clean wood, while Picco performance depends on its exact cutter design and compatible saw system. The outcome on your saw requires a correctly matched test.
Setup and safe installation
Installation starts with matching the chain to the saw, bar, and sprocket, then checking safety controls and lubrication. Use the operator manual for the exact starting, tensioning, and maintenance procedure. If any part is damaged or the fit is uncertain, stop and resolve that issue before starting the saw.
Before fitting either chain:
- Confirm the bar’s pitch, gauge, and required drive-link count. Confirm chain type and sprocket approval in the saw manual.
- Inspect the chain, bar, sprocket, brake, hand guards, throttle lockout, chain catcher, and stop switch. Do not use a cracked, damaged, or excessively stretched chain.
- Fit the chain in the correct direction and tension it as the manual directs. Secure the bar nuts to the model-specific specification.
- Use suitable bar-and-chain oil and check for visible oil delivery. Oil choice and delivery depend on the saw, bar, and conditions; do not assume one viscosity or flow rate suits every setup.
- Wear a helmet, eye and hearing protection, chainsaw leg protection, gloves, and suitable boots. Clear the work area and keep others outside the hazard zone.
For a STIHL two-stroke saw, use a 50:1 gasoline-to-oil ratio only when that model’s manual specifies it. Use fresh fuel and suitable two-stroke oil, and follow the manual if it gives different instructions.
Start the saw using its cold- or warm-start procedure, with the chain clear of the ground and other objects. Check that it idles reliably and the chain stops at idle. If the chain creeps, do not cut until the cause is corrected.
Installation cases that prevent bad comparisons
These are common setup scenarios, not reports of measured customer outcomes. Each shows why a seemingly simple chain swap can lead to an invalid comparison or an unsafe fit. The answer in every case is to verify the complete chain system before starting, not to rely on a shared pitch label.
- The bar says 3/8 P, but the replacement chain says standard 3/8. Do not install it as a substitute. Confirm the correct Picco chain and drive-link count for that bar.
- The chain pitch matches, but the gauge or link count does not. It is still the wrong chain. Recheck the bar stamp and order the specified size.
- A buyer wants to compare Picco and RS on one saw. First confirm the saw, bars, and sprockets are approved for each system. If the setup cannot be matched safely, compare the appropriate chains on their intended equipment instead.
- The chain makes fine dust or needs unusual pressure. Stop and inspect sharpness, cutter consistency, depth gauges, lubrication, and bar condition rather than forcing the cut.
Sharpening, wear, and storage
Chain life and cutting quality depend on correct sharpening and care, not just chain family. Use the filing instructions for the exact chain, inspect the bar and sprocket, and stop using damaged components. A dull chain makes a speed comparison unreliable and can increase effort and heat.
Use the specified file size and cutter angle for the chain. Keep left and right cutters even, and set depth gauges from the applicable STIHL filing chart. As common reference points, STIHL cites about .018 inch (0.45 mm) for 3/8-inch P and .026 inch (0.65 mm) for standard 3/8-inch. Confirm the specific chain’s chart; do not set depth gauges by guesswork.
A chain that cuts to one side, makes fine dust, or needs excessive feed pressure should be inspected and sharpened. Check the bar groove and oil hole, bar rails, and sprocket for wear. Replace damaged cutters, cracked links, or components that exceed the manual’s service limits.
Do not alter carburetor settings to make one chain appear faster. Idle and maximum RPM limits, fastener torque, and tuning procedures are model-specific. Incorrect tuning can damage the engine. For storage, follow the manual’s fuel guidance, clean the bar groove and oil passages, service the chain, and store the equipment in a dry, secure place.
Verdict: which chain should you choose?
Choose by saw approval and workload, not by the assumption that one chain always wins. Picco is the right choice when the saw and bar call for a compatible low-profile system. Rapid Super is a candidate only when the saw, bar, and sprocket are approved for standard-profile chain.
For clean wood and an approved standard 3/8-inch setup, RS’s full-chisel design can offer aggressive cutting. It also needs to stay sharp and clean to perform well. For a compatible low-profile saw, Picco is the proper system; its exact behavior depends on the chain version and setup.
My buying rule is simple: match the markings first, then compare performance. If a seller cannot confirm pitch, gauge, drive-link count, and saw approval, pause before spending. The right chain is the one specified for your machine and kept sharp, lubricated, and in good condition.
Frequently asked questions
These answers focus on chain fit and the limits of a fair comparison. Check your saw’s manual and bar markings for the final specification; general descriptions cannot replace the exact parts list for your model.
Is Picco the same as 3/8-inch chain?
No. Picco is 3/8-inch low profile, often marked 3/8 P. Standard 3/8-inch Rapid Super is a different system and is not interchangeable based on pitch wording alone.
Is Rapid Super always faster than Picco?
No verified universal result supports that claim. Speed depends on the saw, chain condition, wood, cut, and correct setup. Full-chisel RS can be aggressive in clean wood, but that does not make it faster in every situation.
Can I put RS chain on a Picco bar?
Do not do so unless the bar, sprocket, and saw are explicitly specified for that chain. Check pitch, gauge, drive-link count, and the operator manual.
How do I find the right drive-link count?
Read the bar marking or the saw and bar documentation. Count must match the exact bar; bar length alone does not give a reliable universal count.
What does chain gauge mean?
Gauge is the thickness of the chain’s drive links where they fit into the bar groove. The chain gauge must match the bar groove specification.
Does full chisel need more sharpening care?
Full-chisel cutters are generally less tolerant of dirt and dulling than rounder-corner cutter designs. Sharpen to the exact chain’s instructions and avoid cutting into soil or debris.
What depth-gauge setting should I use?
Use the filing chart for the exact chain. Common STIHL references are about .018 inch for 3/8-inch P and .026 inch for standard 3/8-inch, but these are not a substitute for checking the chain-specific chart.
Can I compare the chains on the same saw?
Only if the saw and each bar-and-sprocket setup are approved for the respective chain. Keep wood, sharpness, cut geometry, and lubrication consistent, and record repeated cuts.
What if my saw pulls to one side or makes dust?
Stop and inspect the chain for uneven or dull cutters, then check the bar, sprocket, and oiling. Do not increase feed pressure to force the cut.
Does chain type prevent kickback?
No. Contact with the upper quadrant of the bar nose can cause rapid rotational kickback. Keep the nose clear, use a firm two-handed grip, and never cut above shoulder height.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Marcus Thorne. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
