Stihl MS 270 Hard to Pull Won’t Start (Causes & Fixes)
If your MS 270 is unusually hard to pull, stop rather than forcing the starter. Switch the ignition off, remove the spark plug, and gently test the pull again. If it frees up, fuel may be trapped in the cylinder. If it still binds, suspect the starter or engine and get it inspected before trying to start it.
The starter cord has one job, not 30 rounds of tug-of-war. If your saw will not start and each pull feels harder than the last, the goal is to find out whether the resistance is normal compression, a flooded cylinder, or a mechanical fault. That distinction can save you from buying parts the saw does not need.
Equipment Setup and Safety Preparation
This first check keeps you from turning a starting problem into an injury or more damage. Put the saw on stable ground before inspecting it. Use a helmet with face and eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and boots if you will be working around the saw.
Switch the ignition off and engage the chain brake for inspection. Check for a cracked starter housing, a frayed or stuck rope, fuel leaks, and visible damage. Make sure the chain moves by hand only when the brake is released, with the engine off and gloves on. Do not pull against a jammed chain or damaged recoil starter.
Normal compression versus a hard stop
Compression is the pressure that builds in the cylinder as the piston moves. Some resistance and a brief springy feel during a pull are normal on a two-stroke engine; a sudden, solid stop or a rope that will not rewind is not something to force.
The MS 270 has a 50.2 cm³ two-stroke engine. A firm pull may feel more demanding than it does on a smaller saw. But if the rope stops sharply, the engine locks at one point, or the resistance is much greater than usual, stop and isolate the cause before restarting.
Check the chain and bar fit
A mismatched or damaged cutting setup can bind at the bar or sprocket. Read the markings on the bar and chain and confirm the pitch, gauge, and drive-link count match. MS 270 setups commonly use a 3/8-inch pitch, but gauge and link count vary. Do not assume the gauge from bar length alone.
Look for a pinched chain, a damaged drive link, or packed debris in the bar groove and sprocket area. The chain brake can stop the chain, but it should not be treated as an explanation for a crankshaft that will not turn. Next step: if the rope is still abnormally stiff, check the cylinder with the spark plug removed.
Isolate the Hard-Pull Cause
This test separates a flooded cylinder from a starter or engine problem. Leave the ignition off, keep the plug lead away from the plug, and remove the spark plug. Inspect it for wet fuel, then gently pull the starter with the plug hole pointed away from people and ignition sources.
Remove the plug and test the pull
A wet plug can indicate flooding, while fuel or oil in the cylinder can make the piston hard to move. With the plug out, turn the engine gently using the starter. Do not yank the cord. If liquid sprays from the plug hole, keep sparks and flames away and allow the cylinder to clear safely.
- The engine turns freely with the plug out: A flooded cylinder is likely. Let excess fuel evaporate, dry or replace the plug, then follow the MS 270 manual’s flooded-start procedure.
- The engine still stops or binds: Do not keep pulling. The problem may involve the recoil starter, clutch-side parts, cylinder, piston, or another internal component. Arrange an inspection.
- The rope sticks or fails to rewind: Suspect a damaged or jammed starter assembly. Do not open or pull apart a recoil spring unless you know how to handle its stored tension safely.
A plug that looks wet does not prove flooding by itself. The plug may have become wet after repeated starting attempts. Use the change in resistance with the plug removed as the key clue, not the plug’s appearance alone.
If the pull is free, check the starting basics
Once the engine turns normally with the plug removed, refit a sound plug and boot. Use fresh fuel mixed at 50:1, or 20 mL of two-stroke oil per 1 L of gasoline, using the oil grade specified in the applicable STIHL manual. Do not use straight gasoline or guess at a different ratio.
Use the model-specific cold- or warm-start procedure. Set the switch correctly, use the choke as directed, and avoid repeated full-choke pulls after the engine has begun to fire. Starting controls can vary with engine temperature; check the manual rather than relying on a generic sequence.
| What you notice | Likely direction | What to do next |
|---|---|---|
| Plug is wet; pull becomes free with plug out | Possible flooding | Clear cylinder, dry or replace plug, follow flooded-start steps |
| Plug is dry; engine turns freely | Fuel delivery or ignition may need checking | Confirm fresh fuel and correct start procedure |
| Pull remains blocked with plug out | Mechanical binding or starter fault | Stop; arrange inspection |
| Rope will not rewind or catches | Recoil starter damage or jam | Stop; inspect or service the starter |
Field Cutting and Landscaping Operation
A saw that starts has not yet passed every safety check. Before cutting, confirm the controls work and the chain stops at idle. Keep the bar clear of the ground during starting, and do not use a saw that still pulls abnormally hard or makes unusual noise.
Verify operation after starting
The chain should not run at idle. If it does, shut the saw off and have the idle setting or clutch checked. Check that chain oil reaches the chain using the method in the owner’s manual. A dry chain or failed oiling system can damage the bar and chain.
Use a sharp, correctly tensioned chain. A dull chain can make cutting slow and increase effort, but it does not explain a starter rope that binds with the plug removed. Keep stable footing and keep the bar nose away from wood and other objects while starting and cutting.
If the saw starts and then stalls, note when it happens: at idle, when you open the throttle, or after it warms up. That pattern helps separate a starting issue from a fuel, air, or tuning problem. Do not adjust the carburetor by ear. The MS 270’s typical governed maximum speed is about 12,500 rpm, and typical idle is about 2,800 rpm; confirm the model-specific manual and use a tachometer for tuning.
Maintenance, Sharpening, and Tuning
Routine cleaning can prevent some starting and cutting problems, but it cannot fix internal damage. Switch the saw off, let it cool, and engage the chain brake for handling. Clean the air filter, bar groove, oil holes, and sprocket area as the manual directs.
Check the chain and service items
Inspect the chain for damage and correct tension. Set depth gauges, also called rakers, using the chain maker’s filing gauge and instructions. Their correct setting is chain-specific; there is no safe universal clearance for every chain.
A dirty air filter or stale fuel can contribute to poor running, but neither should be used to explain a hard mechanical stop. If the saw remains difficult to turn with the plug removed, stop using it. Have the recoil starter, clutch-side components, cylinder, and piston inspected before further operation.
Use a measured approach to tuning
The idle and maximum-speed figures are reference points, not a reason to turn adjustment screws until the saw sounds right. Carburetor settings depend on the exact model and condition. Use the applicable STIHL service information and a tachometer, or have a qualified technician set it.
Next step: repair the cause of the hard pull first. Then address fuel, spark, or tuning only if the saw still will not start after the engine turns freely.
Storage and Seasonal Care
Fuel left in a saw can become a starting concern over time, so follow the storage steps in the owner’s manual. Before storing the MS 270, switch it off, let it cool, and clean away sawdust and oil. Store it in a dry, secure place away from ignition sources.
If the saw has been stored with fuel in it, use the manual’s instructions for preparing it to run again. Refill with fresh, correctly mixed fuel. Check the plug, filter, chain, and bar before starting. Repeated hard pulls after storage are a reason to stop and test with the plug removed, not a reason to pull harder.
Common Diagnostic Patterns
These examples are diagnostic patterns, not proof of a specific failed part. I use them to decide what to test next: first separate normal compression from a true bind, then look at fuel and spark only if the engine turns freely.
- It fired a few times, then the rope became very hard: Repeated choke use may have flooded the cylinder. Remove the plug and gently test the pull.
- It was dropped or struck, and now the rope stops: Stop. A sudden new bind needs inspection, even if the plug is dry.
- The rope catches before the engine turns: Check for a starter rope or recoil problem. Do not force the handle.
- It pulls normally with the plug out but will not start: Check the manual’s start procedure, fuel mix, plug condition, and ignition using a proper spark tester. Keep sparks away from fuel.
Conclusion and FAQ
When an MS 270 is hard to pull, the most useful first test is simple: remove the plug and gently see whether the engine turns. Free movement points toward possible flooding; continued binding points toward a starter or mechanical problem that needs inspection. Do not force the cord, and do not keep operating a saw that remains hard to turn.
Why is my MS 270 hard to pull and not starting?
Possible causes include a flooded cylinder, a jammed or damaged recoil starter, or a mechanical bind. Switch the ignition off, remove the plug, and gently test the pull. If it still binds, stop and arrange an inspection.
Can a flooded MS 270 be hard to pull?
Yes. Liquid fuel in the cylinder can resist piston movement. Remove the spark plug and gently turn the engine with the plug hole directed away from people and ignition sources. Never yank the starter to force liquid past the piston.
What should I do if it still will not turn with the plug removed?
Stop pulling. The recoil starter, clutch-side parts, cylinder, piston, or another component may be damaged or binding. The saw needs inspection before you try to start or run it again.
Is some resistance from compression normal?
Yes. A two-stroke engine can feel firm as it builds compression. A sudden hard stop, a rope that will not rewind, or a major change from the saw’s usual feel is not normal and should be checked.
What fuel mix does the MS 270 use?
Use a 50:1 gasoline-to-two-stroke-oil mix, equal to 20 mL of oil per 1 L of gasoline. Use fresh fuel and the oil grade specified in the applicable STIHL manual.
Should I replace the spark plug if it is wet?
Not automatically. A wet plug may point to flooding, but it may also be wet after repeated start attempts. Dry or replace it if needed, clear the cylinder, and follow the manual’s flooded-start procedure.
Could the chain or bar cause a hard starter pull?
A jammed chain or damaged cutting setup needs attention, but it does not by itself prove the engine is seized. Check the bar and chain for binding, then use the plug-out test to assess whether the engine turns freely.
Can I adjust the carburetor to fix hard pulling?
No. Carburetor adjustment does not repair a starter or engine that binds. If the engine turns freely but runs poorly, tune only to the model-specific service information, using a tachometer rather than sound alone.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Robert Callahan. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
