Stihl MS 260 vs. MS 390 (Field Test)

For most buyers choosing between these two saws, the MS 260 is the lighter option for smaller-to-medium timber and frequent handling; the MS 390 offers more engine power for larger or sustained cuts, at a weight cost. Their powerhead ratings differ by 0.6 kW, but neither spec predicts cutting speed by itself. Match the saw, bar, chain, wood, and your skill.

You may have two tabs open, comparing engine size and weight, while reviews promise that one saw “cuts anything.” Those claims miss the key question: what will you cut, how often, and with what bar-and-chain setup? A model that feels powerful in one task can be tiring or poorly matched in another.

I compare the MS 260 and MS 390 here using their stated specifications and practical setup factors. This is not a controlled timed cutting test, so I won’t claim a measured cut-speed winner. The decision below is based on the published powerhead figures and how those differences apply to real work.

MS 260 and MS 390: What the specifications say

These models differ in engine size, rated power, and dry powerhead weight. The MS 390 has the larger figures in all three categories, while the MS 260 is lighter. Those numbers help frame the choice, but they do not include the bar, chain, fuel, or oil.

Specifications can vary by market and machine version, so check the label and manual for the saw you are considering. “Dry powerhead weight” means the saw body without the cutting equipment or operating fluids; it is not the weight you will hold while cutting.

How much more power does the MS 390 offer?

Rated power is the engine’s stated output, not a promise of a certain cutting rate. The MS 390’s rating is 0.6 kW higher, roughly 23% above the MS 260’s 2.6 kW. Its displacement is also about 28% greater, based on the listed figures.

That extra capacity can help when cuts are larger or sustained. But chain sharpness, wood species and condition, bar setup, and cutting technique all affect performance. A dull or mismatched chain can erase the practical benefit of a larger engine.

Is the MS 260’s lower weight a real advantage?

The MS 260 powerhead is about 1.0 kg lighter, or roughly 17% below the MS 390’s stated dry weight. Add a bar, chain, fuel, and oil, and both saws weigh more than the figures in the table.

That difference matters most when you handle the saw for long periods, move it often, or value maneuverability. As a rough comparison, the listed power-to-weight figures are close: about 0.54 kW/kg for the MS 260 and 0.55 kW/kg for the MS 390. This calculation uses dry powerhead weight only, so it is not a direct measure of cutting performance.

Takeaway: The MS 390 has more total rated power; the MS 260 has a lighter powerhead. Neither is a universal upgrade.

Which saw suits your cutting work?

The best match is the lightest saw that handles your usual wood and approved cutting setup without forcing the cut. Think about typical log diameter, how often you cut, and whether you need to move the saw around the site. Do not choose by engine size or bar length alone.

Choose the MS 260 when handling matters most

The MS 260 is the more natural fit for smaller-to-medium timber and ground-level bucking when maneuverability is important. Bucking means cutting a felled tree or log into shorter sections. Its lower stated powerhead weight may also make frequent repositioning less tiring.

It is not automatically the better choice just because you cut occasionally. If your regular work involves larger wood or long cutting sessions, consider whether its output suits that workload. The manual, approved bar-and-chain combinations, and your ability to control the saw remain part of the decision.

Choose the MS 390 when cuts are larger or sustained

The MS 390’s higher rated power makes it the stronger candidate when your work regularly involves larger timber or sustained cutting. It is also about 1.0 kg heavier before the bar, chain, and fluids are added, which is a real tradeoff rather than a footnote.

More power does not make a long bar safe or suitable by default. Follow the manual for approved bar lengths and chain combinations. Consider the weight of the complete setup and whether you can keep stable footing and firm two-handed control throughout the job.

This table is a starting point, not a substitute for the model manual or a site assessment. Neither saw makes overhead cutting or directional felling safe by itself.

Field-use scenarios: where the differences matter

These scenarios apply the published specifications to common jobs; they are not claims from a timed field trial. I use this kind of task-by-task comparison to separate a useful upgrade from a larger number on a spec sheet. The right choice can change if your wood, setup, or cutting frequency changes.

Scenario: occasional ground bucking

For an owner who mainly cuts smaller-to-medium logs on the ground, the MS 260’s lower powerhead weight may be the more useful feature. The MS 390 still has more rated power, but that advantage may matter less if the workload does not call for it.

In either case, use a sharp chain, keep it correctly tensioned, and let the saw cut without forcing it. If the chain is dull, a larger engine is not a sound fix.

Scenario: larger logs or long cutting sessions

If larger cuts make up much of your work, the MS 390’s higher power rating is relevant. The extra power may support the heavier workload, while the added weight may be noticeable as you handle and reposition the saw. I would weigh those factors against the size and frequency of your usual cuts, not an occasional oversized log.

Wood can bind the bar or hold stored tension. Assess how the log is supported and where it may move before cutting. If you lack the training or a safe plan for the job, stop and get qualified help rather than relying on engine size.

Scenario: buying a used saw

Condition can outweigh the model difference. Before buying either saw, inspect the bar, chain, sprocket, controls, and safety parts. Ask for the applicable manual and check the machine’s model identification and service history where available.

A saw that starts is not automatically sound. A moving chain at idle, failed chain brake, damaged parts, or signs of a fuel-related lean-running problem are reasons to stop and have it assessed. Don’t assume a low price makes repair risk acceptable.

Equipment setup and safety preparation

Safe operation starts before the engine runs. Use the manual for the exact model and version, wear suitable protective equipment, and check the work area. A larger engine does not reduce kickback risk or make an unsafe site manageable.

Match the bar, chain, and sprocket

Pitch and gauge describe parts of the cutting setup, not properties you can safely infer from “MS 260” or “MS 390.” Read the bar stamp and match the chain’s pitch, gauge, and drive-link count to the bar. The sprocket pitch must also match.

Use only a bar-and-chain combination approved for your saw in its manual. Raker clearance, the depth setting that affects how much wood a cutter bites, is chain-specific. Use the chain maker’s specification and a matching gauge rather than a universal setting.

Inspect the site and saw

Wear chainsaw-rated leg protection, a helmet, eye and face protection, hearing protection, gloves, and suitable boots. Clear your footing and escape paths. Check for lean, hung-up limbs, overhead hazards, nearby people, and property that could be struck.

Before starting, inspect the chain brake, throttle lockout, chain catcher, handles, fasteners, bar, chain, and lubrication system. For tree felling, follow applicable ANSI Z133 and OSHA requirements. OSHA 1910.266 applies to covered logging work; it does not automatically apply to every landscaping task.

Start and warm the saw correctly

Use fresh fuel mixed at the specified 50:1 gasoline-to-two-stroke-oil ratio when using suitable STIHL two-stroke oil, while following the applicable manual and oil instructions. Never use straight gasoline. Fill the chain-oil tank as directed.

Start on stable ground and follow the manual’s cold- or warm-start procedure, with the chain brake engaged. Confirm the saw idles reliably, the throttle returns, and the chain does not move at idle. Check chain lubrication as directed. If the chain moves at idle or a safety feature fails, stop and arrange repair.

Field cutting, maintenance, and storage

Controlled cutting depends on a sound saw, a sharp chain, and a clear plan for the wood. This section covers the basic checks that apply to either model. Follow the manual for model-specific service steps and intervals.

Cut without forcing the saw

Keep a firm two-handed grip, stable footing, and the guide-bar nose clear of wood and other objects. Contact with the upper quadrant at the bar nose can cause kickback, driving the saw back toward you. Avoid tip-first cuts and use a functioning chain brake; it reduces risk but cannot prevent every injury.

Plan each cut for the wood’s weight and tension. Don’t force a dull chain through timber. For felling, assess your skill, the tree, and escape routes; use a planned notch and hinge only when trained and conditions permit.

Sharpen, inspect, and service

A sharp chain should cut without excessive pressure. Follow the chain maker’s sharpening angles and raker-clearance specification, and use the correct file and gauge. Check tension and damage as directed by the manual. Stop the engine before adjustments or clearing debris.

Engage the brake and shut down before carrying, refueling, adjusting, or clearing the saw. Let it cool before refueling. Clean the air filter and cooling areas as prescribed, and check bar-oil delivery. If fuel-related lean running is suspected, stop using the saw and have it checked rather than continuing to cut.

Store the saw safely

For seasonal storage, follow the manual’s fuel and preservation instructions for your model and fuel type. Clean the saw, inspect the cutting equipment, and store it in a secure, dry place away from children and ignition sources. Don’t leave a damaged chain or failed safety part for the next job.

Final recommendation

For smaller-to-medium ground bucking where low handling weight matters, the MS 260 is the more sensible starting point. For regular larger or sustained cuts, the MS 390’s higher rated power may better suit the work, if you are comfortable handling its added weight.

Before buying, verify the saw’s condition, manual, and approved cutting setup. Choose based on your regular workload, not a single large log or a bar-length claim. A sound, correctly configured saw is a better choice than a more powerful model in poor condition.

FAQs

Is the MS 390 more powerful than the MS 260?

Yes. The listed rated power is 3.2 kW for the MS 390 and 2.6 kW for the MS 260. Cutting rate still depends on the chain, wood, setup, and technique.

Which saw is lighter?

The MS 260 has a lower stated dry powerhead weight: about 4.8 kg versus about 5.8 kg for the MS 390. These figures exclude the bar, chain, and fluids.

Which model is better for larger logs?

The MS 390 is the stronger candidate for regular larger cuts because it has the higher rated power. Choose an approved bar-and-chain setup and work within your training and safe site conditions.

Does the MS 390 cut 23% faster?

Not necessarily. Its rated power is about 23% higher, but that does not establish a 23% faster cutting rate. Wood, chain condition, setup, and technique all affect results.

Can I choose a bar length based on engine size?

No. Check the exact saw manual for approved bar lengths and chain combinations. Also match chain pitch, gauge, and drive-link count to the bar and sprocket.

What fuel mix do these saws use?

The specified mix is 50:1 gasoline to two-stroke oil when using suitable STIHL oil. Follow the applicable manual and oil instructions, and do not use straight gasoline.

Is a chain that moves at idle safe to use?

No. Stop the saw and arrange repair if the chain moves at idle. Do not continue operating it until the cause is fixed.

Is the MS 390 safer for felling?

No model alone makes felling safe. Assess the tree and site, use suitable training and protective equipment, and follow applicable safety requirements. Get qualified help if the job exceeds your skill.

Is a chain brake enough to prevent kickback injury?

No. A working brake can reduce risk but cannot prevent every injury. Keep the bar nose clear, use a compatible setup, maintain a firm two-handed grip, and avoid tip-first cuts.

(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Marcus Thorne. Visit our Meet the Team page.)