Stihl 038 Super Chainsaw (Field Test)
The 038 Super is a 72.2 cm³ professional saw best suited to ground-level bucking and trained felling when its identity and condition are confirmed. A sound example commonly runs a 20-inch bar, but fit depends on the mount, chain, sprocket, wood, and operator. Check safety systems, lubrication, and engine tune before cutting; this guide explains the field-test checks that matter.
The best option is not simply the saw with the longest bar or the cleanest plastics. It is a correctly identified 038 Super with working safety parts, a matched cutting setup, and a history you can verify. Since these are older saws, condition and parts support can vary widely from one example to another.
I assess the model by separating its published specifications from what a specific used saw can prove. The figures below describe the 038 Super, not every saw in the 038 family. This is a practical inspection and operating guide, not a claim of measured cut times from a particular saw.
Identify the 038 Super before judging its performance
The 038 Super is a specific model in Stihl’s older 038 family, with a published displacement of 72.2 cm³. That number does not confirm the identity or condition of a used saw by itself. Check the model markings and available records, then verify that the fitted bar, chain, and sprocket work together.
Do not assume that a seller’s listing, decal, or replacement cover proves the saw is a Super. Family members can differ in specifications and components. If the model marking is missing, unclear, or inconsistent with the saw’s parts, ask a qualified Stihl dealer or repair shop to inspect it before you buy.
Serial numbers can help a dealer check a saw’s identity or service history, but they do not always provide a public, complete manufacturing record. Ask a dealer to review the serial number and compare it with the saw’s markings. Treat unclear numbers, altered markings, or a seller who will not allow inspection as reasons to pause.
| Check | What to verify | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Model | Markings identify it as an 038 Super | 038-family details can differ |
| Displacement | 72.2 cm³ for the Super | Confirms the specification being discussed |
| Bar mount | Match bar to the saw’s mount | A bar that appears to fit may still be wrong |
| Chain and sprocket | Pitch, gauge, and sprocket match | Mismatched parts can prevent correct operation |
| Chain length | Drive-link count matches the bar | Bar length alone does not specify chain fit |
A 20-inch bar is a common setup for this model, not a guarantee of suitability for every job. Longer bars increase the need to confirm the exact cutting parts, wood, saw condition, and operator skill. Choose a dealer or repair shop that can identify the saw and check parts, not just sell a bar that looks close.
Equipment Setup and Safety Preparation
Preparation means checking the saw, cutting equipment, fuel, and work area before starting. On an older professional saw, a short inspection can reveal faults that make a field test unsafe or misleading. I would not assess cutting performance until the chain, safety systems, and oil delivery pass basic checks.
Start with the saw switched off and the chain brake engaged. Inspect the chain brake, throttle lockout, stop switch, handles, chain catcher, bar, chain tension, and fuel and oil caps. Stop if a key safety part is missing, damaged, or unreliable; do not treat a running engine as proof that the saw is safe.
Match every part in the cutting setup:
- Pitch is the spacing that must match between the chain, bar nose, and sprocket. Common 038 Super setups use 3/8-inch pitch.
- Gauge is the thickness of the chain’s drive links where they sit in the bar groove. A common setup is .063 inch, but confirm the bar stamp and chain specification.
- Drive-link count is the number of links that must fit the bar. It varies with bar length.
- Bar mount is the pattern that secures the bar to the saw. Verify it rather than assuming every 038-family bar fits.
Use dedicated bar-and-chain oil and check for oil delivery at the bar. Oil flow and the right oil viscosity depend on temperature and saw condition. Fill the chain oil reservoir before testing; a dry chain and bar can wear quickly.
Wear a helmet with face and eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw-rated leg protection, gloves, and boots. Check footing, overhead hazards, tree lean, escape routes, and bystanders. During felling, keep other workers at least two tree lengths away, unless the applicable plan or standard requires more distance.
Field Cutting and Landscaping Operation
A field test should show whether the saw starts, idles, responds to the throttle, oils the chain, and cuts under suitable conditions. It should not push an old saw beyond its safe limits. The 038 Super is a heavy professional saw; it is not a general landscaping or overhead-pruning tool.
Mix fresh fuel according to the manual for the saw’s market and version, along with the oil maker’s directions. With current STIHL two-stroke oil, the usual specified mix is 50:1: 20 mL of oil per 1 L of gasoline. Use another ratio if the applicable manual requires it. Never use a fuel mix that ignores the manual.
Start on firm ground with the chain brake engaged and the saw secured. Do not drop-start it. Once running, check that the chain does not move at idle, the throttle responds, and the stop switch works. Confirm oil delivery before cutting. If the chain moves at idle or the saw fails a safety check, stop and have it serviced.
For a controlled bucking test, use sound footing and a log that can be supported safely. Plan each cut for compression, tension, and log movement. Hold the saw with two hands, keep the bar tip clear of wood and obstacles, and use a sharp, correctly tensioned chain. Do not force a dull chain through the cut.
Rotational kickback can happen when the upper quadrant of the bar tip strikes wood or another object. The saw can then move toward the operator. Keep the tip out of the cut, use a functioning chain brake and compatible low-kickback equipment, and maintain control; the brake does not replace safe handling.
| Test or job | Suitable approach | Stop or reconsider when |
|---|---|---|
| Ground-level bucking | Start with a manageable, supported log | The log can roll, shift, or pinch the bar |
| Felling | Only with training, a plan, and safe conditions | The tree is hung up, hazards are unclear, or skill is limited |
| Long-bar use | Confirm all parts and the job first | Fit, power demand, or operator control is uncertain |
| Overhead pruning | Choose a tool and method suited to that work | The saw would need to be used above shoulder height |
Felling, limbing, and dealing with hung-up trees require competent training and ANSI Z133-compliant practices. Do not cut beyond your ability or the site plan. A successful test cut on a log does not prove the saw or operator is ready for a difficult tree.
Maintenance, Sharpening, and Carburetor Checks
Maintenance checks help separate a weak saw from a poor cutting setup. Start with simple checks, then use the applicable manual or a qualified technician for adjustments. Do not tune the carburetor by ear or apply torque values from a different model.
Sharpen with the file diameter and filing angles specified by the chain maker. Set depth gauges, which control how much wood each cutter bites, to that same maker’s specification. A setting of .025 inch (0.65 mm) is common on many full-size 3/8-inch chains, but it is not universal.
Published 038 Super figures commonly list about 2,500 rpm at idle and 12,500 rpm maximum. Confirm the exact figures in the correct manual for the saw’s market and check engine speed with a tachometer. Do not exceed the stated maximum. If the saw races, stalls, runs poorly, or will not idle without chain movement, stop and seek proper diagnosis.
After use, clean debris from the cover, brake area, bar groove, and oil outlet. Recheck chain tension and inspect the chain, bar, and safety parts for damage. Fastener torque values are not interchangeable; use the applicable service information rather than guessing.
Storage and Seasonal Care
Good storage protects the saw and makes the next inspection easier. Let the engine cool in a clear area before cleaning or moving it. Engage the brake, switch off the saw, and keep it away from ignition sources while fuel is present.
Before transport, check for damage and secure the saw against movement, accidental starting, and fuel leakage. Follow the manual’s directions for fuel storage and longer-term layup. Keep the chain covered and store the saw where children cannot reach it.
For an older saw, note any fuel leaks, hard starting, chain-oil problems, or loose parts before putting it away. Record the model markings and serial number for service discussions. Those details can help a shop identify the correct parts and manual.
Field-Test Verdict and Buying Checks
A useful test is a sequence of safety, fit, start, oiling, and controlled-cut checks. No single cut proves a used saw is sound. I would favor a verified, serviceable saw with the right parts over one with an impressive bar length but uncertain identity or repair history.
Field scenario: the clean-looking saw. A seller presents an 038-family saw with fresh paint and a long bar. Verify the model marking, inspect the serial number with a dealer if possible, and check pitch, gauge, drive-link count, mount, and sprocket. Do not pay a Super premium until its identity is supported.
Field scenario: the saw starts but cuts poorly. Check chain sharpness, tension, and oil delivery before blaming the engine. Then have engine speed and condition assessed against the correct service information. A poor cut can come from the chain or setup, not only from the powerhead.
Field scenario: a longer bar is offered as an upgrade. Confirm that the exact bar and chain match the saw, then consider wood size, saw condition, and operator skill. Bar length alone does not establish safe capacity. If the seller cannot show compatibility, keep the shorter verified setup or ask a qualified dealer.
For the platform decision, prioritize a nearby shop that will identify the model, source compatible parts, and service older equipment. Stihl’s dealer network can provide model-specific support, but local capability matters: call before buying and ask whether the shop works on the 038 Super. A confirmed saw and capable service path are stronger reasons to buy than a label alone.
Conclusion and Frequently Asked Questions
The 038 Super can suit demanding ground-level bucking when it is correctly identified, well maintained, and fitted with compatible parts. Its 72.2 cm³ specification and common 20-inch setup are useful starting points, not a substitute for inspection. Confirm the saw, test its safety and oiling systems, and match the dealer support to your needs.
Is the 038 Super a professional chainsaw?
Yes. It is an older professional saw, but the condition of a used example must be checked individually.
What is the displacement of the 038 Super?
The 038 Super has a published displacement of 72.2 cm³. Other 038-family models may differ.
What bar length is common on an 038 Super?
A 20-inch bar is a common setup. Confirm compatibility and suitability for the saw, chain, wood, and operator.
Does every 038-family saw use the same parts?
No. Check the exact model and match the bar mount, pitch, gauge, drive-link count, and sprocket.
What fuel mix should I use?
Follow the manual for the saw’s market and version. With current STIHL two-stroke oil, the usual specified mix is 50:1, or 20 mL of oil per 1 L of gasoline.
What chain pitch and gauge does it use?
Common setups use 3/8-inch pitch and often .063-inch gauge. Verify the bar, chain, and sprocket markings before fitting parts.
How do I verify a used saw’s serial number?
Check that the number is legible and ask a Stihl dealer to review it. A serial number alone may not provide a complete public record of origin or service history.
What engine speed should I expect?
Common published figures are about 2,500 rpm at idle and 12,500 rpm maximum. Confirm the correct manual and use a tachometer; do not tune by ear.
Can I use the 038 Super for felling?
Only with suitable training, a safe site plan, and proper practices. Do not attempt a difficult or hung-up tree beyond your skill.
What should I check before a test cut?
Inspect the safety parts, chain fit and tension, fuel, oil supply, throttle response, stop switch, footing, and nearby hazards.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Elliott Fowler. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
