Stihl 028 AV Wood Boss (Buyer’s Guide)
The 028 AV Wood Boss is a vintage, roughly 47 cm³ gas chainsaw suited to ground-based firewood cutting and general bucking when it is sound, correctly identified, and fitted with a suitable bar and chain. Before buying, verify its model and condition, check parts support, and confirm the manual’s specifications. A sharp 16–18-inch setup is a practical starting point for routine work.
A used 028 can look like a bargain beside a new saw, but age and condition matter more than the badge. A clean exterior does not prove that the engine, chain brake, oil pump, or safety controls work. Nor does the Wood Boss name alone tell you which parts are fitted.
I assess this model as a used-tool purchase, not just a brand comparison. The key questions are simple: Is it truly the model advertised? Is it safe and mechanically sound? Can you get the right parts and service where you live? Work through those checks before agreeing on a price.
Is the 028 AV Wood Boss the right saw to buy?
This section helps you decide whether the saw’s size and age suit your work. The 028 has an engine displacement of approximately 47 cm³, though variants can differ. It is a vintage gas saw, so condition, correct setup, and support matter as much as its original design.
For ground-based firewood cutting and general bucking, a sound 028 can be a reasonable choice. A sharp, correctly matched 16–18-inch bar is a practical range for routine work. Longer bars increase the demands on the engine and cutting system; use one only if the exact powerhead, bar, chain, oiling system, and manual support that setup.
Think about the work you actually do. A buyer who cuts occasional firewood on the ground has different needs from someone who wants a light saw for frequent use, or a tool for professional tree work. A used 028 may suit the first job, but age can bring extra repair and parts checks.
| Buyer’s use | What to check | Buying view |
|---|---|---|
| Ground-based firewood | Engine condition, oiling, brake, and a suitable 16–18-inch setup | Consider it if inspection and price reflect its age |
| Frequent cutting | Parts availability, service access, and repair history | Compare upkeep with a newer saw before buying |
| Tree climbing or felling | Training, work method, saw condition, and applicable safety rules | Do not treat this vintage model as a shortcut to professional work |
| “Ready to cut” online listing | Clear model photos, cold-start test, and matching bar and chain markings | Be cautious if the seller will not allow inspection |
Bottom line: Buy for verified condition and a clear use case, not the Wood Boss label alone.
Verify the model, serial, and parts before paying
Model identification means confirming what powerhead is actually in front of you, rather than relying on a listing title. Serial numbers can help a dealer or parts specialist investigate a saw, but do not assume that one universal public code will reveal its year, factory, or full specification.
Look for the model marking and serial number on the saw’s identification plate or other marked location. Photograph the markings, then compare them with the model information and diagrams in the correct operator’s manual. If the plate is missing, damaged, or inconsistent with the seller’s description, pause and ask a STIHL dealer or experienced parts supplier to help identify it.
A serial number is not proof that the saw is genuine. Check the whole machine: castings, controls, fasteners, warning labels, and the fit of parts. A used saw may have legitimate replacement components, but unexplained mismatches or altered identification deserve caution. Do not pay a premium based only on a claimed production year.
Confirm the fitted cutting system separately. Common 028 setups use 3/8-inch chain pitch, but pitch alone is not enough to select a chain. Match the bar’s pitch, gauge, and drive-link count. Gauge and drive-link count depend on the actual bar, and .050-inch and .063-inch gauge setups exist.
Before purchase:
- Ask for the exact model shown on the saw, not just the listing name.
- Photograph the identification plate, bar markings, and chain markings.
- Check whether the manual matches the model and installed parts.
- Ask which parts have been replaced and whether repair records are available.
- Check with a local dealer or parts supplier about support before committing.
Bottom line: Treat identification as a verification step, not a serial-number guessing game. Confirm the saw and its fitted parts through reliable documentation and knowledgeable local support.
Inspect the saw before you buy
A pre-purchase inspection is a practical check of the engine, cutting system, and safety equipment. Ask to see the saw start and run, ideally from cold. A warm engine can hide a hard-start problem, so ask the seller not to start it before you arrive.
With the engine off, inspect the handles, controls, chain catcher, chain brake, bar rails, sprocket area, and visible fasteners. Reject cracked or loose safety parts, fuel leaks, damaged handles, or obvious modifications to safety components. Check that the chain tension can be adjusted and that the chain fits the bar markings.
If you can safely observe a running test, confirm that the saw idles reliably, responds to the stop switch, and does not move the chain at idle. Ask a qualified technician to assess engine condition and carburetor settings when you are unsure. Do not use generic engine-speed or torque numbers: the correct limits and procedure depend on the fitted carburetor and the relevant manual.
The chain should be sharp and undamaged, and the bar and chain must match. A seller’s claim that the saw “just needs a tune” is not a diagnosis. If it will not start, leaks, runs poorly, or lacks working safety parts, price it as a repair project—or walk away.
| Inspection point | What to look for | Decision |
|---|---|---|
| Identification | Readable model and serial markings | Verify with manual or dealer |
| Safety parts | Brake, throttle interlock, stop switch, catcher, handles | Do not buy as ready to use if damaged or unreliable |
| Engine and controls | Cold start if possible, steady idle, working stop switch | Get professional assessment if performance is uncertain |
| Bar and chain | Matching pitch, gauge, and drive-link count; sound rails and chain | Replace or correct mismatched parts before cutting |
| Oiling | Visible evidence of chain lubrication during a safe check | Do not cut until the system is confirmed to work |
Bottom line: A running engine does not prove that a used saw is safe or correctly set up.
Equipment Setup and Safety Preparation
Equipment setup means checking that the saw is safe, matched to its cutting parts, and ready for the specific job. Vintage controls and replacement parts may differ, so use the correct manual for the identified saw. If a safety device is missing, damaged, or modified, stop and repair it before use.
Before each session, inspect the chain brake, throttle interlock, stop switch, chain catcher, handles, bar rails, sprocket, chain tension, and oiling system. Do not operate the saw if parts are cracked, loose, leaking, or altered. Check that the bar and chain are compatible; the chain must match the bar’s pitch, gauge, and required drive-link count.
Use the fuel ratio specified in the saw’s manual and the oil maker’s instructions. STIHL’s current recommendation with STIHL two-stroke oil is 50:1, or 2% oil, but do not assume that overrides a different ratio printed in the original manual for this vintage saw. Use the manual that matches the identified model and equipment.
Wear a helmet, eye and hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and suitable boots. Assess the wood for movement, plan an escape route where needed, keep bystanders clear, and check for overhead hazards. Follow ANSI Z133 work practices when applicable; OSHA logging rules apply to covered logging work. Electrical-line clearance depends on voltage and local rules. Never assume one distance fits every situation.
Bottom line: Resolve identification, fuel, cutting-system, and safety questions before starting.
Field Cutting and Landscaping Operation
Safe operation begins before the chain touches wood. Start the saw on stable ground with the chain brake engaged and the bar clear. Follow the cold- or warm-start procedure for the controls fitted to that saw. Never drop-start it. Confirm reliable idle, stop-switch function, and visible chain lubrication before cutting.
Keep both hands on the saw and work below shoulder height. Keep the guide-bar tip clear of wood and other objects, especially its upper quadrant. Contact there can cause rotational kickback, driving the saw rapidly back toward you. A working chain brake helps limit injury risk, but it does not prevent kickback or replace safe cutting technique. Avoid plunge cuts unless trained and equipped for them.
When bucking, assess how the wood is supported and where compression and tension may be. Secure or reposition a piece if it may roll or shift. Standing-tree felling requires trained methods; do not treat ordinary firewood bucking as proof of felling skill. Stop if the chain becomes dull, damaged, or incorrectly tensioned. Correct the fault and verify compatibility rather than forcing the chain through wood.
Bottom line: Use the 028 only for work you are trained to do, with the workpiece stable and the saw’s safety systems functioning.
Maintenance, Chain Sharpening, and Carburetor Tuning
Maintenance keeps the saw’s cutting system and safety parts in working order. Follow the manual for the identified model and installed components; vintage saws may have replacement parts that change the correct service details. If a repair or adjustment is beyond your skill, use a qualified technician.
After use, engage the brake, stop the engine, and let the saw cool. Clean the air filter, clutch cover, bar groove, and oil ports. Check the chain, bar, and tension for wear or damage before the next job. Set chain depth gauges to the chain maker’s specification. A setting of .025 inch, or 0.65 mm, is common but not universal; use the correct depth-gauge tool and chain guidance.
Carburetor limits depend on the carburetor fitted and the applicable manual. Do not apply generic idle or wide-open-throttle figures to an unidentified vintage saw. An overspeeding two-stroke engine can seize. If the saw races, stalls, or runs unpredictably, stop using it and have the cause checked instead of turning adjustment screws by guesswork.
Bottom line: Maintain to the installed parts and their documentation, not to a number copied from another 028.
Storage and Seasonal Care
Storage means preparing the saw so it does not sit with avoidable dirt, damage, or fuel-system problems. Follow the manual and the fuel maker’s guidance for the fuel in use. Let the engine cool before refueling or servicing, and keep fuel away from ignition sources.
Before putting the saw away, engage the brake, stop the engine, and clean the bar groove, oil ports, air filter, and clutch cover as directed. Check for chain damage and correct tension. Store the saw securely, with the chain protected, away from children and ignition sources. Before the next season, repeat the full safety and lubrication checks rather than assuming the saw is ready because it ran last time.
Bottom line: A careful storage routine helps make the next inspection meaningful, but it never replaces a pre-use check.
Buyer scenarios and final decision
These scenarios show how I would weigh a used 028 listing. They are decision examples, not claims about any specific saw or seller. The right price depends on verified condition, included parts, repair needs, and local service options.
Scenario 1: Identified saw, working safety parts, clear test. The seller allows a cold-start check, the model markings are legible, and the bar and chain match. This is the strongest candidate, provided a local parts source can support it and the price reflects its vintage status.
Scenario 2: “Runs great,” but no cold start or safety inspection. Treat the claim as unverified. Ask for a proper inspection or price it as an unknown-condition saw. If the seller refuses either option, move on.
Scenario 3: Cheap saw with a long, mismatched bar. Do not assume the larger bar is an upgrade. Verify the powerhead, bar, chain, oiling system, and manual compatibility before cutting. If the setup cannot be confirmed, budget for correct parts or pass.
Before you commit, ask yourself:
- Can I confirm the exact model and fitted parts?
- Can I inspect the safety systems and engine condition?
- Is there a dealer or parts source I can actually reach?
- Does the purchase price leave room for service and wear parts?
- Is this saw suitable for my work and training?
A good decision is not simply “Stihl versus another brand.” It is a choice between a specific, verified saw and the work you need it to do. For an older 028, dealer access and parts support are part of the purchase, not an afterthought.
Frequently asked questions
These answers cover common purchase and setup questions for the 028 AV Wood Boss. Because this is a vintage saw and variants or replacement parts may differ, verify model-specific details against the correct manual and the markings on the saw, bar, and chain.
How large is the engine?
The 028 is approximately 47 cm³, but confirm the exact variant before relying on that figure.
What bar length should I buy?
A sharp, properly matched 16–18-inch bar is a practical starting point for routine ground-based work. Confirm compatibility with the exact saw and manual.
Is every 028 AV Wood Boss the same?
No. Variants and replacement parts can differ. Verify the model, installed carburetor, and cutting equipment.
Does the serial number confirm the saw is genuine?
No. It is one identification clue, not proof. Check the whole saw and seek dealer or parts-specialist confirmation if markings are unclear.
Can I choose a chain by pitch alone?
No. Match pitch, gauge, and drive-link count to the bar markings.
Should I use 50:1 fuel mix?
Use the ratio specified by the correct saw manual and oil maker. STIHL’s current recommendation with STIHL two-stroke oil is 50:1, but check the original manual for this saw.
Is a longer bar always better?
No. Use a longer bar only when the powerhead, bar, chain, oiling system, and manual support it.
What depth-gauge setting should I use?
Follow the chain manufacturer’s specification. .025 inch, or 0.65 mm, is common but not universal.
What should make me walk away?
Unclear identification, damaged safety parts, leaks, a mismatched cutting system, or a seller who will not allow a reasonable inspection.
Can I tune the carburetor using generic 028 settings online?
Do not rely on generic figures. Use the limits and procedure for the fitted carburetor and correct manual, or have a qualified technician do the work.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Elliott Fowler. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
