Stihl 026 Chainsaw (Buyer’s Guide)

The STIHL 026 is a 48.7 cm³, two-stroke saw commonly rated at 2.4 kW (3.2 hp). A sound, correctly configured example can suit ground-based bucking and light-to-medium felling. Because it is an older model, buy condition and parts support, not a “professional” label. Verify the serial and configuration with a STIHL dealer before paying.

A used 026 can look like a bargain beside a new saw, but repairs can erase the savings. I assess it as a complete working system: engine, bar, chain, sprocket, safety parts, and access to service. A clean exterior or a seller’s claim that it is “all original” proves little.

For your budget, compare the asking price with the cost of a proper inspection and any needed repairs. Do not assume that an older professional saw is automatically a better buy than a newer homeowner model. The right choice depends on its condition, your work, and the dealer support available where you live.

What the STIHL 026 is, and what it can do

The 026 is a gas-powered, two-stroke chainsaw with a 48.7 cm³ engine. Its rated output is commonly listed as 2.4 kW, or 3.2 hp, though condition and production version affect real performance. It is an older model, so documentation and parts fit should be confirmed for the saw in front of you.

These are reference figures, not a substitute for the saw’s manual or component stamps. Bar length alone does not show whether a setup is correct. A longer bar can add load, and an incorrect chain or sprocket can make a saw unsafe or unreliable.

The 026 is best considered for ground-based bucking and light-to-medium felling by a trained operator. Match the job to the wood, saw condition, and bar maker’s limits. For felling, follow a site-specific plan and applicable ANSI Z133 and OSHA requirements.

How to inspect a used 026 before buying

A used-saw inspection is a way to find costly problems before money changes hands. Ask to see the saw cold, check that its safety parts work, and look for evidence of leaks, damage, or poor repairs. A brief start-up helps, but it cannot confirm the saw’s internal condition or safe tuning.

I focus on evidence, not seller language. “Runs great” is not a test. If the seller will not let you inspect the saw or have a qualified shop assess it, treat that as a reason to walk away.

• Check the identity. Find the serial number and model markings on the saw. Photograph them and ask an authorized STIHL dealer to check whether the number and model information make sense together.
• Inspect the engine. Look for cracks, heavy impact damage, fuel or oil leaks, and loose fasteners. A shop can check compression and inspect the cylinder and piston; a good result in one test still does not guarantee a healthy saw.
• Test safety parts. Check the chain brake, throttle lockout, chain catcher, handles, and stop switch. Do not buy a saw with a missing or damaged safety part as a ready-to-use machine.
• Look at the cutting system. Read the bar stamp and compare its pitch and gauge with the chain and drive sprocket. Check the bar rails, chain tension, sprocket wear, and oiling system.
• Ask for a cold start. Follow the manual’s starting procedure. A warm saw may hide a difficult cold start. If it will not idle without moving the chain, do not operate it until the cause is fixed.

A seller’s recent service receipt can help, but it is not a guarantee. Ask what was done and whether parts were replaced. Price repairs before you commit, especially if the saw needs a carburetor, cylinder work, or several safety and cutting parts.

Serial numbers, origin, and counterfeit checks

A serial number helps a dealer identify a saw, but it is not a universal public code that reliably reveals every production detail. Number formats and records can vary. Ask a STIHL dealer to verify the model and available serial information; do not infer the saw’s age, factory, or parts fit from an online chart alone.

Check that the stamped number is present, legible, and not visibly altered. Compare the model markings and overall construction with official STIHL information or a dealer’s knowledge. A serial number by itself does not prove authenticity: counterfeiters can copy real numbers, and genuine used saws can have replaced parts.

If you suspect a counterfeit, stop the purchase and ask an authorized dealer to inspect it. Be cautious of unusually low prices, inconsistent labels, poor casting or finish, and a seller who avoids basic questions. These signs are prompts for verification, not proof on their own.

The 026 is often compared with the later MS 260. Do not assume the names make every part interchangeable. Check the exact part number and version with a dealer or parts catalog before buying components.

Match the bar, chain, and sprocket

The bar, chain, and drive sprocket must work together. Pitch is the size relationship between the chain links and sprocket; gauge is the thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. The saw may be set up for different combinations, so identify the installed parts rather than trusting a listing.

Common 026 configurations use 3/8-in standard or .325-in pitch, with .050-in or .063-in gauge options. That does not mean every combination fits every 026. Have a dealer confirm compatibility if markings are missing or parts have been changed.

For a sound saw, a 16–20 in bar is generally suited to compatible wood and the right setup. A longer bar is not automatically more useful. It can make the saw work harder and increase the demands on the operator. Use a sharp chain and avoid forcing the saw through a cut.

Equipment Setup and Safety Preparation

Before cutting, prepare the operator, saw, and work area. Wear a helmet, eye and face protection, hearing protection, chainsaw-resistant leg protection, gloves, and boots. Check the chain brake, throttle lockout, catcher, handles, chain tension, bar, and fasteners, then clear bystanders and plan escape paths.

Use the fuel mix specified for the saw: 50:1 gasoline to suitable air-cooled two-stroke oil by volume. Use fresh fuel and follow the oil maker’s instructions. Do not guess based on age or a carburetor change. Use purpose-made chainsaw bar oil suited to the conditions; there is no single oil viscosity or flow setting for all use.

Engage the chain brake and start the saw on stable ground, following the manual’s cold- or warm-start steps. Never drop-start it. At idle, the chain must remain still. Before cutting, verify that bar oil reaches the chain, using the manual’s recommended check.

Field Cutting and Landscaping Operation

Operate the 026 only with a sharp, correctly tensioned chain and a controlled stance. Assess each stem for lean, bind, spring poles, and pinch points before cutting. Keep the bar nose clear, maintain a firm two-handed grip, and never cut above shoulder height; felling needs training and a planned escape route.

Rotational kickback happens when the upper quadrant of the bar nose contacts wood or another object. The saw can be thrown back toward the operator with great force. A functioning chain brake and compatible low-kickback setup help reduce risk, but they do not make careless cutting safe.

If the chain binds, the saw bogs, or the cut closes on the bar, stop and reassess. Do not force the saw through wood. A dull, damaged, or mismatched chain should be corrected before work continues. For felling, use a sound hinge and a site-specific plan; do not improvise a notch around people, structures, or uncertain lean.

Maintenance, Sharpening, and Carburetor Tuning

Routine care helps preserve performance and makes faults easier to spot. Clean the air filter, sprocket cover, bar groove, and oil ports as needed. Sharpen cutters evenly, set depth gauges to the chain maker’s specification, and inspect the bar, sprocket, and fasteners. A common depth-gauge reference is 0.025 in (0.65 mm), but check the chain maker’s instructions and use its gauge tool.

Carburetor tuning should follow the exact manual for the model and version. Common reference speeds are about 2,800 rpm at idle and 13,000 rpm maximum no-load, but confirm the correct figures for that saw. Use a tachometer; do not tune by ear or exceed the specified maximum. Poor running can stem from faults beyond adjustment, so use a qualified shop if the cause is unclear.

Buyer scenarios and final decision

These scenarios show how the same model can be a sensible buy or a poor one. The key difference is not the badge; it is the evidence about condition, setup, and service. Use the inspection and a dealer’s estimate to compare the total cost with a new or newer saw suited to your work.

My practical rule is to price the saw as it sits, then add the cost of needed service, correct cutting parts, and safety repairs. If the seller’s price leaves no room for that work, the bargain may not be a bargain. Confirm parts availability and service options before making a decision.

Frequently asked questions

Is the STIHL 026 a professional saw?
It is an older STIHL model commonly associated with professional use. Its condition and setup matter more than the label when assessing a used example.

How much power does the 026 have?
It is commonly listed at 2.4 kW, or 3.2 hp, from a 48.7 cm³ engine. Wear and production version can affect actual performance.

What bar length fits a STIHL 026?
Many setups use a 16–20 in bar, but fit depends on the specific saw, bar, chain, and sprocket. Follow the bar maker’s limits and verify the configuration.

Does the 026 use .325-in or 3/8-in chain?
Both pitches appear on common configurations. Check the bar and sprocket stamps, then match the chain pitch, gauge, and drive-link count.

What fuel mix does the 026 need?
Use a 50:1 gasoline-to-suitable air-cooled two-stroke-oil mix by volume, with fresh fuel and the oil maker’s instructions.

Can a serial number prove that a saw is genuine?
No. A serial number can help a STIHL dealer identify a saw, but it does not prove authenticity by itself.

Is the MS 260 the same saw as the 026?
They are related model names, but do not assume all parts are interchangeable. Confirm the exact version and part number with a dealer.

What should I check before buying one?
Inspect the serial and markings, engine, safety parts, cutting setup, and cold start. Have a qualified shop assess it if anything is unclear.

What is a fair price for a used 026?
There is no reliable single price. Compare local listings, condition, repair needs, and dealer support, then include the cost of making the saw safe and correctly configured.

Is the 026 suitable for felling trees?
It can suit light-to-medium felling in appropriate conditions, but the operator needs training, a site-specific plan, and the required safety gear. Follow applicable rules and standards.

(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Elliott Fowler. Visit our Meet the Team page.)