Stihl 025 vs. 026 Chainsaws (Field Test)
The 025 is a 45.4 cm³ saw; the 026 is 48.7 cm³, about 7% more displacement. That gives the 026 a modest power advantage on paper, not a guaranteed 7% faster cut. For either used saw, condition, a sharp and correctly matched chain, and safe handling matter more than the model badge.
Comparing these older saws can be frustrating: listings often mix model years, bar setups, and repair histories, while a clean-looking saw may still need costly work. I would treat this as a specification-based field comparison, not a timed test of two inspected machines. No verified cut-rate, vibration, or weight measurements are available here, so I will not invent them.
The practical verdict
This comparison weighs the published displacement figures against the factors that decide how a legacy saw behaves in real work. The key distinction is clear: the 026 has a small engine-size edge, while the condition and setup of the individual saw can outweigh that difference.
For limbing, bucking firewood, and suitable light-to-moderate felling, either model may fit the job if it is sound and properly equipped. The 026 has about 3.3 cm³ more displacement. That is roughly 7% more than the 025, but displacement alone does not tell you actual cutting speed, starting ease, reliability, or remaining service life.
My buying rule is simple: compare the saws in front of you, not only the model names. A well-maintained 025 with a sharp chain may cut better than a worn 026 with poor compression, a dirty filter, or a dull chain. Conversely, if both saws are in comparable condition and correctly set up, the 026’s greater displacement is a sensible advantage for tougher cuts.
Neither model is a sound choice just because its listed price falls within your budget. Before buying, check that it starts and idles correctly, that the safety parts work, and that replacement or repair needs are understood. If a seller will not let you inspect or start a saw, treat the unknown condition as a buying risk.
Specs that matter in the comparison
Displacement is the volume swept by the engine’s piston in one cycle; it is not a direct measure of cutting speed. The figures below establish the basic difference between these models, but they do not identify every saw’s exact year, bar, chain, or service history.
| Measure | STIHL 025 | STIHL 026 |
|---|---|---|
| Engine displacement | 45.4 cm³ | 48.7 cm³ |
| Difference | About 3.3 cm³, or 7% more than the 025 | |
| Practical bar reference | A 16-inch bar is a practical general-purpose fit when approved for that saw | A 16-inch bar is a practical general-purpose fit when approved for that saw |
| Cutting-rate conclusion | Cannot be determined from displacement alone | Cannot be determined from displacement alone |
The 026’s displacement advantage is real, but it should not be turned into a claim about a matching gain in cutting rate. Chain sharpness, wood, bar length, engine condition, and operator technique all affect a cut. Longer bars also increase the load on the saw. They do not create more engine power.
A 16-inch bar is a practical starting point for general use, but confirm the permitted setup in the manual for the exact saw. Do not assume a model name settles chain fit. Pitch means the spacing of the chain’s drive links; gauge means the thickness of those links. Match the bar stamp, chain stamp, and drive sprocket. For example, do not mix .325-inch and 3/8-inch pitch parts, or .050-inch and .063-inch gauge parts.
Equipment setup and safety preparation
A safe setup means checking the saw, cutting gear, and work area before starting. It is not enough for the engine to run. The chain, brake, controls, lubrication, and operator protection must all be ready, and the task must stay within the operator’s training and the saw’s approved setup.
Before work, wear a helmet, eye and face protection, hearing protection, chainsaw-rated leg protection, gloves, and protective boots. Check the chain brake, throttle lockout, stop switch, chain catcher, handles, chain tension, bar, fasteners, and lubrication system. Follow the applicable STIHL manual and relevant ANSI Z133 and OSHA requirements.
Plan the work zone and escape route before cutting. Look for overhead hazards, tree lean, wind, unstable footing, bystanders, and the direction a log may roll or settle. For complex or hazardous felling, get qualified help. Engine displacement cannot tell you whether a particular tree is safe to fell.
Start the saw only as the manufacturer directs, on stable ground or securely restrained. Engage the chain brake for starting where the manual specifies. Check that the chain stays still at idle, the throttle returns, the brake works, and oil reaches the chain using the manual’s test procedure. Warm the engine briefly; avoid long idling or high-speed revving without a load.
Field cutting and landscaping operation
Field performance is the result of the full setup, not a single engine number. A sharp, correctly matched chain and controlled cuts let either saw do its intended work. A dull chain or an overloaded setup can make a saw seem weak and can raise risk, so stop and correct the cause rather than forcing the cut.
For ordinary bucking, use a sharp chain, secure footing, and two-handed control. Plan the cut so the log’s movement will not pinch the bar. Keep the bar nose clear of wood and obstructions: contact with the upper quadrant of the nose can cause rotational kickback, which drives the bar rapidly back and up. A chain brake is a safety feature, not a reason to cut with the tip.
Do not cut above shoulder height or operate one-handed. If the saw, wood, or site makes control uncertain, stop. Felling calls for a planned notch and hinge, a clear escape path, and attention to lean and nearby hazards. If the tree or site exceeds your training or equipment capability, do not proceed.
The following use cases are setup checks, not claims from timed tests on specific machines:
| Work situation | What matters most | 025 vs. 026 takeaway |
|---|---|---|
| Limbing and smaller bucking cuts | Sharp chain, control, and a suitable bar | Either may suit the task if sound; displacement alone does not pick a winner |
| Repeated, tougher bucking | Engine condition, chain setup, and load | The 026 has more displacement, but inspect condition before paying extra |
| Light-to-moderate felling | Tree, site, operator skill, and approved setup | Neither model is automatically suitable for a given tree |
| Saw with unknown repair history | Inspection and service records | Do not treat the 026’s larger displacement as proof of reliability |
Maintenance, chain sharpening, and tuning
Maintenance protects performance and helps you spot a bad used-saw purchase before it becomes a larger repair. Chain care, fuel, air flow, and correct service settings matter on both models. Because these are legacy saws, verify the exact manual and service data for the individual saw rather than relying on a generic setting.
Set chain depth gauges, also called rakers, to the chain maker’s specification using the correct gauge tool. There is no one clearance that fits every chain type. Check that cutters are equal in length and have the correct top-plate and side-plate angles. If you do not know the chain type or its required angles, identify it before sharpening.
Use fresh, correctly mixed unleaded gasoline and quality oil made for air-cooled two-stroke engines. A 50:1 mix applies when using STIHL two-stroke oil as specified by the applicable manual. Check the manual for the saw’s market and year, and never run straight gasoline.
Idle speed, maximum no-load speed, clutch or sprocket torque, and oil delivery limits can vary by model revision and setup. Use the exact STIHL service data and the required tachometer procedure. Do not tune by ear or apply a generic torque value. Confirm automatic oiling by following the manual’s test method.
For a used saw, inspect the bar groove and oil holes, chain, sprocket, air filter, and visible fasteners. Ask what has been replaced and whether the saw has had recent service. These checks cannot confirm every internal condition, but they help reveal setup problems and guide a more informed purchase.
Shutdown, storage, and seasonal care
A clean shutdown limits avoidable wear and makes the next inspection easier. Let the chain stop, switch off the saw, and engage the brake for handling. Allow hot parts to cool before cleaning or refueling; keep fuel and bar oil separate, and check for leaks before storage.
Brush debris from the cover and brake area, then check the bar groove, oil holes, chain, bar rails, sprocket, and filter. Refill fuel and bar oil as directed in the manual. Store the saw safely, away from ignition sources and where unauthorized users cannot reach it. For longer storage, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for fuel and preparation.
Conclusion and FAQs
The buying decision comes down to a modest specification advantage versus the actual condition of each used saw. The 026’s 48.7 cm³ engine is larger than the 025’s 45.4 cm³ engine, but that does not prove a faster cut or a better buy. Verify the saw, its approved bar-and-chain setup, and its service needs before choosing.
If both saws are similarly sound and correctly equipped, the 026 is the more powerful option on displacement. If the 025 is in much better condition or costs less to bring into safe working order, it may be the wiser purchase. Either way, use the exact manual for fuel, fit, operation, and service.
Is the 026 more powerful than the 025?
It has greater displacement: 48.7 cm³ versus 45.4 cm³. That supports a modest power advantage, but does not establish a specific cutting-rate gain.
How much larger is the 026 engine?
It has about 3.3 cm³ more displacement, roughly 7% more than the 025.
Which saw cuts faster?
There is no reliable answer from displacement alone. Condition, chain sharpness, bar setup, wood, and technique all affect cutting speed.
Is a 16-inch bar suitable for both models?
It is a practical general-purpose fit when approved for the exact saw. Check the applicable manual and match the bar, chain, and sprocket.
Can I choose a chain by model name?
No. Match the pitch and gauge stamped on the bar and chain to the drive sprocket. Do not mix incompatible components.
Is 50:1 fuel mix correct?
Use 50:1 when using STIHL two-stroke oil as specified by the applicable manual. Check the manual for the saw’s year and market, and never use straight gasoline.
Does the 026 make a better used-saw purchase?
Not automatically. Its larger displacement is an advantage, but condition, safe function, repair needs, and price should guide the decision.
What should I check before buying either saw?
Inspect the safety controls, chain brake, bar, chain, tension, fasteners, and lubrication. If possible, verify starting, idle behavior, throttle return, and oil delivery using the manual’s procedure.
Can I use a longer bar to improve cutting capacity?
A longer bar increases load and is not a substitute for power or safe technique. Use only an approved setup for the specific saw.
What causes kickback?
Rotational kickback can occur when the upper quadrant of the bar nose contacts wood. Keep the nose clear, maintain two-handed control, and do not rely on the chain brake to prevent it.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Marcus Thorne. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
