Stihl 025 Chainsaw (Used Buyer’s Guide)
A sound used STIHL 025 can suit ground-level firewood and routine property cutting. Its 45.4 cc engine is best paired with a sharp, compatible 12–16-inch bar. Buy only after checking the saw’s condition, safety controls, and bar-chain-sprocket match. Budget for service, use the correct fuel mix, and pass on any saw with structural damage or a faulty chain brake.
If you have several listings open, compare condition and repair needs before focusing on price or bar length. The 025 is a two-stroke saw, so routine care is manageable, but correct fuel, a sharp chain, and working safety parts matter. In my evaluation process, I treat a seller’s description as a starting point, not proof that a saw is ready to cut.
What a used STIHL 025 is suited to
The 025 has a 45.4 cc, air-cooled, two-stroke engine. It can be a practical choice for ground-level firewood and general property cutting when the saw is sound and its chain is sharp. It is not a stand-in for professional equipment or training for large-tree felling.
A 12–16-inch bar is the sensible range for routine work, provided it matches the saw’s drive parts. An 18-inch bar may work only when the bar, chain, sprocket, and saw condition support that setup. More bar length does not create more power. Dense hardwood and larger cuts place greater demands on the engine, so do not force the saw through a cut.
Used examples vary in wear and configuration. Two saws with the same model marking may have different bar and chain setups. Confirm the parts on the individual saw rather than ordering by model name alone.
Verify the model, specifications, and parts
Specifications help you judge a listing, but they do not prove that a particular used saw is original or in good repair. Check the saw’s identification and manual, then verify the parts fitted to it. The bar, chain, and drive sprocket must match one another.
Published 025 specifications commonly list about 2,800 rpm at idle and 12,500 rpm maximum. Treat those as reference figures, not tuning targets for guesswork. Use the manual for the exact saw, and a tachometer for carburetor tuning. Do not adjust the carburetor by ear or exceed the stated maximum speed.
| Item | What to check before buying |
|---|---|
| Engine | 45.4 cc, air-cooled, two-stroke |
| Routine bar length | 12–16 inches, if the full setup is compatible |
| Longer bar | 18 inches only if the saw, bar, chain, and sprocket support it |
| Fuel | 50:1 gasoline-to-suitable air-cooled two-stroke oil; follow the saw manual and oil maker |
| Chain fit | Match pitch and gauge to both the bar and drive sprocket |
| Common chain setup | .325-inch pitch and .063-inch gauge are common, but not universal |
| Chain depth gauges | .025 inch (0.65 mm) is common on many standard chains; follow that chain’s specification |
Read the markings stamped on the bar and inspect the sprocket before buying parts. Do not assume chain pitch or gauge from “025” alone. If markings are missing or unclear, have a qualified saw shop identify the parts before use.
Inspect the used saw before paying
A pre-purchase inspection can reveal costly faults that a quick start will not show. With the engine off and cool, examine structural parts, controls, wear items, and oil and fuel systems. Ask permission before handling the saw, and do not test-cut it unless you can do so safely.
Check the crankcase and handles for cracks or damage. Look over the bar rails, chain links, sprocket, tensioner, starter, air filter, fuel lines, and oil system. Watch for leaks, excessive wear, poor repairs, or changes that appear unauthorized. A worn chain or bar may be replaceable; structural damage is a reason to walk away.
Test the chain brake, throttle lockout, stop switch, chain catcher, and anti-vibration mounts. Reject a saw with a faulty brake or damaged structural parts. If the seller cannot demonstrate that the engine stops and idles safely, price the saw as needing professional diagnosis, not as ready to work.
Equipment Setup and Safety Preparation
Before cutting, confirm that the parts fit, the chain is correctly tensioned, and the safety controls work. Wear chainsaw-rated head, eye, and hearing protection, leg protection, gloves, and boots. Set a clear work area, keep bystanders away, and plan an escape route before starting the saw.
Use the exact saw manual for starting, chain tension, and control procedures. Fill the fuel tank with fresh 50:1 mix made with suitable air-cooled two-stroke oil, following the oil maker’s directions. Fill the separate bar-oil tank with dedicated chainsaw bar-and-chain lubricant. Never use straight gasoline in this two-stroke engine.
Set chain tension as the manual directs. A chain that is too loose, too tight, damaged, dull, or mismatched is not safe to operate. Start on stable ground using the manual’s procedure, and use the chain brake as directed. After a brief warm-up, check for a steady idle and confirm the chain stays still at idle.
Check that the bar receives oil and that the chain remains lubricated during operation. There is no single reliable flow-rate or viscosity figure for every 025 setup. If oil delivery is uncertain, stop and diagnose the system before cutting.
Field Cutting and Property-Care Operation
Use the 025 within its limits: routine ground-level cutting with a sharp, correctly fitted chain. Hold the saw with both hands and keep the bar nose clear of branches, logs, and other objects. Stop if the chain binds, lubrication fails, vibration changes, or the chain becomes loose.
Kickback is a rapid rotation of the saw that can happen when the upper part of the bar nose contacts wood or another object. Keep the nose away from the cut and do not cut with the tip. A firm two-handed grip and working chain brake are important, but the brake does not replace safe technique.
Cut only within your training. Do not use this buyer’s guide as instruction for climbing, overhead cutting, or controlled tree felling. Those jobs call for a qualified professional and the relevant safety practices, including applicable OSHA requirements and ANSI Z133 guidance.
Maintenance, Sharpening, and Carburetor Checks
Basic upkeep helps a used saw run as intended and makes wear easier to spot. Clean the saw after use, keep the chain sharp, and check tension and lubrication often. Use the model’s manual and the chain maker’s instructions; settings can vary by fitted parts.
After stopping the engine, let the saw cool before service. Clear chips from the cover, brake area, air intake, and bar groove. Inspect the chain and bar, and retension the chain when cool as directed. Sharpen cutters evenly and set depth gauges to the chain maker’s specification. A .025-inch setting is common for many standard chains, not a universal setting for every chain.
A dull chain can increase heat, binding, and loss-of-control risk. Do not compensate by pushing harder. For carburetor tuning, use a tachometer and the exact manual’s limits; commonly published 025 figures are about 2,800 rpm idle and 12,500 rpm maximum. If the saw will not idle steadily, the chain moves at idle, or the engine runs abnormally, stop and have it checked.
Storage and Seasonal Care
Good storage reduces avoidable wear and helps you find problems before the next job. Shut the engine off, let it cool, and clean chips from the saw. Store it in a dry, secure place, with the bar covered and away from children or ignition sources.
For fuel handling and storage, follow the saw manual and fuel maker’s directions. Refuel only with the engine off and cool, away from ignition sources. Before putting the saw away, inspect the chain, bar, and controls; note any repair needed rather than assuming it will be ready next time.
Buyer scenarios and final decision
A useful buying decision weighs condition, parts fit, and repair cost together. There is no reliable way to judge value from bar length or a brief start alone. These examples are inspection scenarios, not reports of specific saws or test results.
| Scenario | Decision |
|---|---|
| Sound saw, working controls, compatible 12–16-inch setup, routine firewood use | Consider it if the price leaves room for normal service |
| Clean-running saw, but bar markings or sprocket match are unclear | Pause; identify the parts before buying or cutting |
| Seller says it “just needs a tune,” with unstable idle or chain movement at idle | Budget for diagnosis, or pass if the repair cost is uncertain |
| Cracked structure, faulty chain brake, damaged parts, or oiling concern | Reject it until repaired and inspected by a qualified technician |
| Planned work includes large-tree felling, climbing, or overhead cuts | Choose qualified help and suitable equipment instead |
I would choose the better-maintained saw over the longer-bar listing. Before paying, confirm the parts, test the safety controls, and account for any needed service. If the seller will not allow a careful inspection, the lower price does not remove the risk.
Frequently asked questions
These short answers cover the most common checks when comparing a used 025. Confirm model-specific details in the saw’s manual, and verify replacement parts by their markings. If the saw has a safety fault or unclear mechanical problem, have it inspected before use.
Is the STIHL 025 good for firewood?
It can suit ground-level firewood cutting with a sharp, compatible 12–16-inch setup.
What bar length should I buy?
A 12–16-inch bar is the routine range if the bar, chain, and sprocket match. Treat 18 inches as conditional.
Can I fit any .325-inch chain?
No. Match pitch and gauge to both the bar and drive sprocket. Check their markings.
What fuel mix does it use?
Use 50:1 gasoline and suitable air-cooled two-stroke oil, following the manual and oil maker’s directions.
Is .025-inch depth-gauge clearance always correct?
No. It is common on many standard chains, but follow the specification for the chain fitted.
What idle speed should it have?
Published specifications commonly list about 2,800 rpm. Confirm the exact manual and use a tachometer for tuning.
Should the chain move at idle?
No. If it moves at idle, stop and have the saw checked.
Can I use an 18-inch bar?
Only if the saw’s condition, bar, chain, and sprocket support it. Do not assume compatibility.
What faults mean I should walk away?
Reject structural damage or a faulty chain brake. Treat unclear oiling or engine problems as repair risks.
Can I use it for tree felling?
This guide covers ground-level cutting. Use a qualified professional for climbing, overhead cutting, or controlled felling.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Marcus Thorne. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
