Skip Tooth Chainsaw Chains (Pros & Cons)
A skip-tooth chain has fewer cutters around the loop than a full-complement chain. That can reduce cutting resistance and help clear chips during long cuts in large wood, when the saw and bar are suited to the work. It is not a universal upgrade: match the chain to the saw, and choose full-complement for many smaller or smoother cuts.
The useful “aha” is that a skip chain changes the number and spacing of cutters, not the saw’s power or the basic rules of safe cutting. If your chain is dull, your bar is too long for the saw, or the setup is mismatched, switching to skip tooth will not fix the problem.
I see the choice come up most often when an owner uses a longer bar and makes repeated cuts through large-diameter wood. The right answer depends on the whole setup and the work. Here is how to compare the options and check whether skip chain fits your saw.
What a skip-tooth chain is
A skip-tooth chain has fewer cutters than a full-complement chain around the same loop. “Skip” describes the cutter pattern, but chain patterns can vary by maker and product. Check the exact chain part number and layout rather than assuming every skip chain uses one universal sequence.
A full-complement chain places more cutters around the loop. Skip chain spaces cutters farther apart, so fewer cutters engage the wood over a given length of chain. That difference can affect cutting resistance and chip clearance, especially on longer cuts. It does not change the chain’s pitch, gauge, or required drive-link count.
The name alone does not tell you whether a chain fits a saw. Nor does it identify the cutter shape, sharpening instructions, or kickback behavior. Those details depend on the specific chain and the complete saw, bar, and chain combination.
Skip chain pros and cons
Skip chain can be useful when a suitable saw is making long cuts in large wood. Its fewer cutters can reduce cutting resistance and leave more room for chips to clear. Those are potential advantages, not a promise that the saw will cut faster or perform better in every wood and setup.
Fewer cutters also mean fewer cutters to sharpen, but the chain still needs regular inspection and correct sharpening. The trade-off is that a full-complement chain may give a smoother, more controlled cut in smaller wood. Choose based on the saw’s approved setup and the kind of work, not on a claim that one chain is always superior.
| Factor | Skip-tooth chain | Full-complement chain |
|---|---|---|
| Cutter count | Fewer cutters per loop | More cutters per loop |
| Longer cuts in large wood | May suit capable saws and approved longer-bar setups | May create more cutting resistance in some setups |
| Small-diameter cuts | Often offers little practical advantage | Often a suitable choice |
| Cut finish and control | Depends on chain, saw, wood, and technique | Often preferred when a smoother cut matters |
| Sharpening | Fewer cutters, but each must be maintained correctly | More cutters to inspect and sharpen |
| Safety | Does not remove kickback risk | Does not remove kickback risk |
Hardwood alone does not decide the chain type. Saw power, approved bar length, chain design, wood size, and operator control all matter. A dull chain can burn wood and strain the saw with either cutter pattern. Sharpening and fit come before switching chain styles.
Equipment setup, chain compatibility & safety prep
Compatibility means the chain must match the bar and drive sprocket in pitch and gauge, and its drive-link count must fit the specific bar. These dimensions are not interchangeable. Confirm them in the saw and bar instructions or with the chain maker before buying or installing a chain.
Pitch is the chain size designation that must match the sprocket and bar; gauge is the thickness of the drive links that sit in the bar groove. For example, 3/8-inch pitch and .050-inch gauge are specifications found on some chains, not a recommendation for any particular saw.
The drive-link count must match the specific bar. Bar length by itself does not establish the correct count, and visual similarity is not a reliable fit check. Use the approved bar length for your saw and verify the chain part number against the bar and saw specifications.
Before installation, check the chain, bar, brake, chain catcher, controls, and fasteners. Confirm correct fit and tension using the manufacturer’s instructions. Wear task-appropriate chainsaw leg protection, eye and face protection, hearing protection, gloves, and protective footwear. Check footing, overhead hazards, escape routes, bystanders, and work-zone controls.
| Check | What to confirm | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Pitch | Matches bar and drive sprocket | A mismatch prevents correct engagement |
| Gauge | Matches bar groove | A mismatch can cause poor fit |
| Drive links | Matches the exact bar | Bar length alone is not enough |
| Chain type | Approved for the saw and intended setup | Skip patterns and specifications vary |
| Bar length | Approved by the saw maker | Chain style does not make an unsuitable bar safe |
Field cutting operations: where skip chain fits
Skip chain is most useful when the saw is adequately powered for its approved bar and is making longer cuts in large-diameter wood. Reduced cutting resistance and chip clearance may help in that setting. The chain cannot compensate for a saw that lacks the required power or a bar-and-chain combination outside the maker’s specifications.
For small saws, small-diameter work, or cuts where smooth control matters, full-complement chain is often the more practical choice. Do not pick a chain only because the wood is hardwood. Consider the saw’s power, the approved bar, the cut length, the chain design, and your control of the saw.
Start the saw using the maker’s procedure, with the chain brake engaged where instructed and the saw on stable ground. Confirm chain lubrication and brake function. Disengage the brake only when ready to cut; never run the chain against the brake.
Keep the bar nose clear of unintended contact. Contact with the guide-bar nose, especially its upper quadrant, can cause rapid rotational kickback. Skip-tooth construction does not remove this hazard. Avoid forcing the chain, and stop if the cut binds or pinches. For felling or hazardous tree work, assess lean, defects, escape routes, and hinge requirements; use a qualified operator when needed.
Inspection, sharpening & chain-specific tuning
Chain maintenance means checking for damage, keeping cutters sharp, and setting depth gauges to the exact chain maker’s specification. The depth gauge, often called a raker, controls how much wood a cutter can take. Do not use a generic setting in place of the instructions for your chain.
A .025-inch depth-gauge setting is common on some chains, but it is not universal. Use the gauge or instructions supplied for the exact chain. Too much clearance can make cutting aggressive and unpredictable; do not lower rakers to make a dull chain cut better.
I check the cutter edges before blaming chain type for slow cutting. Look for dull or damaged cutters, then sharpen with the file size, angle, and method specified for that chain. Keep cutter lengths and sharpening consistent, and check the depth gauges as directed. If a chain is damaged or its specifications are unclear, consult the manufacturer or a qualified service shop.
Good lubrication matters with either chain style. Use the saw maker’s specified bar oil and check that oil reaches the chain using the maker’s method. Fuel mix and engine-speed settings are also model-specific: 50:1 is common, but not universal. Follow the saw manual for fuel-oil ratio, bar oil, idle speed, and maximum operating speed.
Workshop scenarios: choosing between chain types
These examples are decision scenarios, not measured performance tests. They show how I apply the compatibility and work-type checks. In each case, the saw maker’s approved bar-and-chain combinations come first; a skip pattern is not permission to fit a longer bar.
Scenario 1: Large wood, approved longer-bar setup. An owner makes repeated long cuts with a saw suited to its approved bar. Skip chain may be worth considering for reduced cutting resistance and chip clearance. I would verify the exact chain pattern, part number, and drive-link count, then compare the cut quality and control with the current chain.
Scenario 2: Small saw, small wood. The owner cuts limbs and smaller rounds. Skip chain is unlikely to offer a clear advantage for that work, while a full-complement chain may suit the smaller cuts better. I would first check sharpness, tension, and oiling rather than change chain type.
Scenario 3: Burning wood with either chain. The saw cuts poorly and the chain leaves burn marks. A skip chain is not a cure. Stop and inspect sharpness, damage, chain tension, lubrication, and setup. Do not force the cut or increase raker clearance to compensate.
Shutdown, storage & seasonal care
Shutdown care protects the bar, chain, and saw and helps reveal wear before the next job. Stop the engine before adjusting or cleaning, and let hot parts cool. Clean the bar groove and oil hole, inspect the sprocket and chain, then store the chain guarded.
After cutting, inspect the cutters and drive links for damage. Check the bar groove and oil hole for debris, and look for wear on the sprocket. Service the chain and depth gauges to the chain maker’s instructions. Keep the chain protected during storage and follow the saw maker’s instructions for fuel and seasonal storage.
Frequently asked questions
These short answers cover the common decisions: what the cutter pattern changes, when it may help, and what must be checked before use. Always confirm chain and saw specifications in their manuals, because patterns and service settings vary by manufacturer and model.
Is skip chain faster?
Not always. It may reduce cutting resistance and help chip clearance on suitable long cuts, but performance depends on the saw, bar, chain condition, wood, and operator.
Does skip chain fit any saw?
No. Match chain pitch, gauge, and drive-link count to the sprocket and bar, and use only combinations approved for the saw.
Does a longer bar require skip chain?
No. Use the bar length approved for the saw. Choose a chain only after confirming the exact bar and chain specifications.
Is skip chain safer than full-complement chain?
No chain style removes kickback risk. Kickback behavior depends on the complete saw, bar, chain, and safety features.
Is skip chain better for hardwood?
Hardwood alone does not decide the choice. Saw power, bar length, chain design, cut size, and operator control matter.
Does skip chain need different sharpening?
Follow the instructions for the exact chain. Use its specified file size, filing angles, and depth-gauge setting rather than assuming all skip chains are the same.
Can I set every chain’s rakers to .025 inch?
No. That is common on some chains, not a universal setting. Use the chain maker’s specification and matching gauge.
Will skip chain fix a chain that burns wood?
No. Stop and inspect sharpness, damage, tension, lubrication, and compatibility. Do not force a dull chain or lower the depth gauges to mask the problem.
How do I know the chain’s drive-link count?
Check the chain markings or count the drive links, then confirm the count against the specific bar and the manufacturer’s information. Bar length alone is not enough.
What fuel mix should I use with skip chain?
The chain type does not set the fuel ratio. Use the saw maker’s specified fuel-oil ratio; 50:1 is common, but not universal.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, David Hensley. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
