Poulan 245A vs. 306SA (Vintage Saw Test)
The 245A is nominally 2.45 cu in (about 40 cc), while the 306SA is 3.06 cu in (about 50 cc). That suggests the 306SA has more displacement, not a guaranteed cutting-speed advantage. On either vintage saw, condition, correct parts, and verified fuel and tuning specifications matter more than the model number.
If you are comparing used examples in the $300–$700 range, it is reasonable to want a clear winner before spending. But a vintage chainsaw cannot be judged by displacement and bar length alone. Wear, missing parts, and uncertain service history can turn a promising listing into an expensive repair.
I treat this comparison as a model-and-condition assessment, not a timed performance test. Without inspecting and running the specific saws, I cannot verify their output, reliability, vibration, or cutting speed. The useful answer is therefore conditional: the 306SA has the larger nominal displacement; the better purchase is the saw that is complete, serviceable, and correctly matched to your work.
Poulan 245A vs. 306SA: What the Model Numbers Tell You
Displacement is the volume swept by an engine’s piston, and it gives a rough sense of engine size. The 245A is listed as 2.45 cubic inches, or about 40 cc; the 306SA is listed as 3.06 cubic inches, or about 50 cc. Confirm either figure on the saw’s identification plate and in the correct manual.
| Comparison point | Poulan 245A | Poulan 306SA | What it means for a buyer |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nominal displacement | 2.45 cu in (about 40 cc) | 3.06 cu in (about 50 cc) | The 306SA has the larger stated engine size; this alone does not establish power or cutting speed. |
| Safe bar length | Not established by model number | Not established by model number | Check the exact manual and the saw’s actual setup. |
| Fuel mix | Use exact manual specification | Use exact manual specification | Do not assume a modern 50:1 mix is correct. |
| Chain and bar fit | Verify installed parts | Verify installed parts | Pitch, gauge, drive links, mount, and sprocket must match. |
| Purchase decision | Condition-led | Condition-led | Prefer a verified, repairable saw over a larger but questionable one. |
Displacement is not a horsepower rating. Nor does it tell you whether a particular saw has a sound piston, a clean carburetor, correct compression, or a compatible bar and chain. I would not call the 306SA the better cutter without comparable, verified test conditions and healthy examples of both models.
In a workshop comparison, I first record the model and serial information, then note what parts are actually fitted. A saw carrying a model badge may have been repaired or altered over decades. That matters more than a listing that simply says “original bar” or “runs great.”
Takeaway: Treat the engine-size difference as a starting point, not a final verdict.
Equipment Identification, Setup & Safety Preparation
Safe setup means confirming the identity, condition, and compatibility of the saw before starting it. A correct manual for the exact model and variant is essential: it establishes the fuel mix, operating adjustments, and any service specifications. If you cannot confirm those details, do not run the saw.
Start with the identification plate and serial number. Match them to the manual rather than relying on a seller’s description or a similar-looking Poulan model. Record any changes to the bar, chain, sprocket, or other fitted parts; vintage equipment may no longer have its original setup.
Check the bar stamp and chain markings. Then confirm all of the following as a matched system:
- Chain pitch and gauge
- Number of drive links
- Bar-mount pattern
- Sprocket type and size, as specified for the setup
- Chain condition and correct tension
Do not assume either saw uses 3/8-inch pitch, .050-inch gauge, or a particular bar length. A mismatch can cause poor fit, derailment, or unsafe operation. Set the chain’s depth gauges, sometimes called rakers, to the chain maker’s specification with the matching gauge tool. There is no one clearance that applies to every chain.
Inspect the handles, controls, throttle lockout, chain catcher, fasteners, fuel lines, starting system, and crankcase area. Check whether a chain brake is fitted and confirm its condition and operation according to the manual. If a safety part is damaged, missing, or uncertain, have the saw assessed before use; do not use a brake test as a substitute for an inspection.
Wear a helmet, eye and face protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and boots. Set a clear work zone and plan escape routes before cutting. Takeaway: Do not buy or start either saw until its identity and installed cutting parts are understood.
Field Cutting Operation and Saw-to-Task Selection
A useful field comparison asks whether each saw can complete your intended cuts safely with its verified setup. It does not assume the bigger engine is automatically the right choice. Wood size, chain sharpness, saw condition, and operator skill all affect the result, so compare only sound saws under similar conditions.
For a homeowner deciding between the two, write down the actual work: occasional bucking of supported firewood, regular cutting of larger rounds, or another specific job. Then check the manual for each saw’s permitted setup and limits. Do not choose a bar by displacement alone, and do not interpret a long bar in a listing as proof that the saw can safely handle it.
A careful comparison can use this record:
| Test item | What to record | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Saw identity | Model, serial, manual reference | Prevents using another variant’s specifications |
| Setup | Bar stamp, chain pitch/gauge, drive-link count, sprocket | Confirms compatible parts |
| Starting and idle | Starts as directed; chain stays still at idle | Flags a control or adjustment problem |
| Lubrication | Oil delivery checked by the manual’s method | Helps prevent bar and chain damage |
| Cut condition | Same sound wood, support, sharp chain, and operator | Makes observations more comparable |
| Result | Cut quality, stalling, unusual vibration, leaks | Helps identify a saw needing service |
Do not invent a speed or torque score from a brief cut. If the chain is dull or the wood is pinched, the test says little about engine capability. Stop if the chain moves at idle, oil delivery is absent, controls do not work correctly, or the saw shows unusual vibration, leakage, or damage.
Rotational kickback can occur when the upper quadrant of the bar nose contacts wood. A sudden bar movement can cause severe injury. Never intentionally strike wood with the bar nose to “test” the saw. Keep two hands on the handles, maintain stable footing, and assess wood tension, compression, and site hazards before each cut.
For tree felling, use trained personnel and follow applicable ANSI Z133 and OSHA requirements. These vintage saws should not be treated as a shortcut around training or site assessment. Takeaway: Select the model only after confirming it can handle your real cuts with a sound, matched setup.
Maintenance, Chain Sharpening & Carburetor Service
Maintenance condition can outweigh the difference between 2.45 and 3.06 cubic inches. A sharp chain, working oil system, clean air filter, and sound fuel system support reliable cutting. The correct settings and service steps depend on the exact manual, so avoid tuning by guesswork or copying values from another Poulan model.
Before using either saw, inspect the chain for damage and sharpen it to the chain maker’s instructions. Keep the chain tension within the manual’s guidance: it must fit the bar correctly and remain secure, but the exact adjustment method is model-dependent. Recheck tension as directed, especially when the chain is new or has recently been serviced.
Clean and inspect the bar groove and oil hole, sprocket area, air filter, and cooling fins. Look for damaged fuel lines, loose fasteners, leaks, and signs of overheating. If the saw will not idle properly or cuts poorly despite a sharp chain and verified setup, it may need diagnosis rather than more aggressive adjustment.
Use only the fuel ratio and oil type specified for that exact saw. Do not assume 50:1, and never use straight gasoline or an unverified mixture. Incorrect lubrication can cause rapid engine damage. If the right specification cannot be confirmed, do not run the saw.
For carburetor service, use the applicable manual’s idle and wide-open-throttle limits and any stated fastener torque values. I would not assign an RPM, bar-oil flow rate, torque figure, or carburetor setting to either model without the correct source. If the manual is unavailable or the saw’s configuration is unclear, get help from a qualified service technician. Takeaway: Verify first; do not use another model’s tune as a substitute.
Shutdown, Storage & Seasonal Care
Proper shutdown and storage help keep a vintage saw easier to inspect and maintain. Follow the manual’s stopping and storage instructions, and treat leaks, damaged parts, or uncertain fuel as reasons to pause rather than put the saw away for another season.
After cutting, stop the engine and let it cool. Engage the brake for handling if one is fitted and working. Clean the bar groove, oil hole, sprocket area, air filter, and cooling fins, then inspect the chain, bar, handles, and fasteners. Recheck chain tension and look for fuel or oil leaks before storage.
Store the saw as directed by its manual, including any instructions for fuel handling. Do not improvise a storage procedure if the manual specifies one. Before the next use, repeat the identity, setup, and safety checks rather than assuming last season’s configuration is still correct.
Takeaway: A clean, documented saw is easier to assess than one with unknown parts and unresolved leaks.
Which Poulan Should You Choose?
The 306SA’s larger nominal displacement may make it the more appealing candidate for demanding work, but that is not proof it will cut faster or be more reliable. The 245A may be the sounder purchase if it is in better condition and its correct setup and specifications can be verified.
For either saw, ask the seller for clear photos of the identification plate, bar stamp, chain, sprocket area, and safety controls. Ask what work has been done and whether the correct manual is available. A running video can help, but it does not verify internal condition, safe chain fit, or correct fuel mix.
My buying rule is simple: choose the verified, serviceable example that suits your workload. If neither has a confirmed manual, compatible parts, and sound safety systems, walk away or budget for a professional inspection before use.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Poulan 306SA more powerful than the 245A?
The 306SA has greater nominal displacement, about 50 cc versus about 40 cc. Displacement alone does not confirm horsepower, cutting speed, or the condition of a used saw.
What bar length should I use on a 245A or 306SA?
Do not choose a bar length from the model number alone. Check the exact manual and confirm the bar mount, chain, sprocket, pitch, gauge, and drive-link count all match.
Are the 245A and 306SA bars interchangeable?
Do not assume they are interchangeable. Compare the mount pattern and the full bar-and-chain setup against the correct manuals and the parts actually installed.
Can I use 50:1 fuel in either Poulan?
Only if the correct manual for that exact saw specifies it. If you cannot verify the required fuel ratio and oil type, do not run the saw.
Which saw is better for firewood?
The better choice depends on the size and type of wood, the saw’s condition, and its approved setup. A healthy, correctly matched example matters more than displacement alone.
How can I tell whether the chain fits?
Read the bar markings, identify the chain pitch and gauge, count the drive links, and confirm sprocket compatibility. If any part is uncertain, have a qualified shop verify the combination.
What should I check before starting a vintage Poulan?
Verify the model and manual, inspect controls and safety parts, confirm the bar and chain match, use the specified fuel, and check chain lubrication and brake function where fitted. Stop if anything is damaged or uncertain.
Is a running saw automatically a safe buy?
No. Starting does not prove correct fuel, safe parts, a working safety system, or sound internal condition. Inspect it carefully and consider a professional assessment before use.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Marcus Thorne. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
