Open-Face Hinge Felling (Technique Guide)
An open-face notch uses two cuts that meet at a wide angle, then a back cut leaves a wood hinge to guide the tree’s rotation. The method can improve directional control, but it does not make felling predictable or safe by itself. Use it only on suitable trees, with clear space, sound equipment, and training.
A tree can be part of what makes a yard comfortable: shade in summer, shelter from wind, and a sense of age. But when one must come down, a careful plan matters more than saving money on the job. A wide notch and an intact hinge can help guide a tree, yet they cannot overcome a strong lean, decay, overhead wires, or a tight drop zone.
I use this method only when the tree, site, and operator are a reasonable match. If there is a serious hazard or doubt about how the tree will move, stop and hire a qualified feller. The cost of a professional plan is small beside the risk of a tree striking a person, home, or line.
Equipment Setup and Felling-Site Safety
An open-face felling cut is not a safe shortcut for every tree. Before starting, assess the tree and the full area it could reach, prepare protective gear and escape routes, and keep people out of the hazard zone. If you cannot control access or identify a clear fall path, do not cut.
Decide whether the tree is suitable
Look at the whole tree from several directions. Note its natural lean, crown weight, dead or broken limbs, cracks, rot, and any pressure from nearby trees. Check wind and the intended landing area. A defect or lean can change how the trunk reacts to a cut.
Do not attempt this method on a tree with significant lean, major defects, overhead hazards, or valuable targets in the fall zone. A forward-leaning, large, or stressed stem can split upward before the hinge controls its movement. This is called a barber chair. The trunk may kick back violently. Do not try to solve that risk with an improvised back cut; get a qualified feller with an appropriate plan and equipment.
Never fell near overhead power lines. Contact the utility or a qualified line-clearance arborist. If you plan to dig around the site, have underground utilities located first; a tree’s roots or stump work can involve buried services even when the felling itself does not.
Set the work zone and escape routes
Where OSHA logging rules apply, people must stay at least two tree lengths from the felling operation, subject to the rule’s conditions. Use that distance as a serious planning benchmark, not permission to ignore local rules or site hazards. Control access, account for nearby work, and keep bystanders well clear.
Clear two escape routes diagonally rearward from the planned direction of fall. Remove brush and trip hazards before starting. Do not stand beneath the crown or in the likely path of the trunk. Never work alone in a hazardous felling situation, and never let anyone enter the exclusion zone while cutting.
Wear protective gear
Use a helmet, eye and face protection, hearing protection, chainsaw protective legwear, gloves, and suitable boots. Choose and fit this equipment according to its maker’s instructions. Protective gear reduces some risks; it does not make an unsafe tree safe.
Open-Face Notch, Hinge, and Field Felling Procedure
The open-face notch is made on the side facing the intended fall. Its two face cuts meet to form a wide opening, generally about 70–90 degrees. A back cut from the opposite side leaves a hinge of uncut wood. The hinge helps guide rotation, but the right shape depends on the tree and conditions.
Understand the notch and hinge
The notch is the wedge-shaped opening that sets the intended direction of fall. With an open face, the opening is wide enough to stay open as the tree begins to move. Make the two cuts meet cleanly; a step between them can affect how the tree releases.
The hinge is the wood left between the notch and back cut. It acts as a guide while the tree starts to rotate. A field-planning starting point is hinge thickness of about 10% of the tree’s diameter. That is not a universal formula: species, size, lean, defects, and wood condition all affect the hinge. Its width and shape also need assessment. If you cannot judge what to leave, do not rely on a percentage alone.
Follow a planned sequence
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Prepare and inspect. Put on protective gear, check the site, confirm the fall path, and clear both escape routes. Inspect the saw and make sure it is suitable for the wood and work. Stop if the tree or conditions differ from your assessment.
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Start and check the saw. Follow the maker’s cold- or warm-start procedure on stable ground with the chain brake engaged. Check that the chain stays still at idle, the controls respond, and lubrication is working. If anything is wrong, shut down and correct it before cutting.
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Make the face notch. Work from the planned fall side. Make the two face cuts so they meet cleanly and create an opening of about 70–90 degrees. Keep the notch aligned with the intended direction. Do not rush or force the saw.
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Make the back cut from the opposite side. Follow a felling plan suited to the tree and retain the intended hinge. Do not cut through the hinge. A suitable felling aid may be needed, but wedges do not make an unsuitable tree safe. If the tree does not respond as expected, stop and reassess rather than making extra cuts on guesswork.
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Retreat as the tree moves. As the tree begins to fall, use a cleared escape route diagonally rearward. Keep awareness of the trunk and crown, but do not stand beneath the canopy or approach a hung-up tree. Treat a tree caught in another tree as a serious hazard and get qualified help.
Compare the method with the site
| Tree or site condition | Open-face notch a reasonable choice? | Safer next step |
|---|---|---|
| Small, sound tree with clear fall space and little lean | Possibly, for a trained operator | Assess the tree and use a complete felling plan |
| Strong forward or side lean | No, not as a routine DIY cut | Hire a qualified feller |
| Rot, cracks, dead top, or broken limbs | No | Arrange an on-site professional assessment |
| House, public path, or other target in the fall zone | Usually not suitable for DIY | Use a qualified tree contractor |
| Overhead power lines near the tree | No | Contact the utility or a qualified line-clearance arborist |
| Tree begins to hang up | Do not approach or keep cutting by guesswork | Keep people away and call a qualified professional |
These are screening examples, not a complete risk assessment. A tree that looks small can still be dangerous if it is stressed, damaged, or poorly placed.
Field scenarios: how the decision changes
These are illustrative situations, not reports of specific jobs. They show why the cut alone cannot determine whether felling is appropriate.
- Clear yard, sound small tree: The operator can see the lean and crown, has an open landing area, and can keep people out. The method may be considered by someone trained to fell trees and use a chainsaw.
- Tree leaning toward a garage: A wide notch does not remove the target from the fall zone. The right choice is a professional plan, not a tighter hinge or a more forceful wedge.
- Stem with a hidden defect: A crack or decay can make the hinge behave unlike sound wood. If the defect is uncertain or affects the cut area, stop and seek a qualified assessment.
Chainsaw Inspection, Sharpening, and Manufacturer-Specified Tuning
A correctly maintained saw helps you make controlled cuts, but the setup must match the exact model and cutting equipment. Check the manual for approved bar and chain combinations, fuel, oil, and adjustments. There is no universal bar-length-to-engine-displacement rule that can replace the manufacturer’s specifications.
Match the bar, chain, and saw
Use a serviceable saw rated by its manufacturer for the bar length and wood being cut. The chain’s pitch, gauge, and drive-link count must match the bar and sprocket exactly. Do not guess a chain specification from bar length alone. Check that the chain is fitted in the correct direction and that tension follows the manual.
A sharp chain cuts with less effort than a dull one. If it pulls to one side, produces fine dust rather than chips, or needs force to advance, stop and inspect it. Sharpen and set the depth gauges, also called rakers, only to the chain maker’s instructions. Do not force a dull chain through the wood.
Use model-specific fuel and settings
Use the fuel mix specified by the saw maker. A 50:1 fuel-to-oil mix is correct only for models whose manuals specify it. Do not use guessed or mixed-by-guess fuel; the wrong mix can damage the engine.
Bar-oil grade and flow, idle speed, maximum engine speed, and raker clearance vary by model and chain. Use the manual for each value and adjustment. Never alter governed engine speed by guesswork. If you cannot verify a setting or repair, take the saw to a qualified service shop.
Shutdown, Cleaning, and Seasonal Storage
After cutting, secure the saw before handling or inspection. Shut it down, let it cool in a safe place, and check for damage. Clean chips and debris, then store the saw according to its manual. Refueling and storage deserve care because fuel and a hot engine create added risk.
Engage the chain brake and shut off the saw. Allow it to cool before refueling, and refuel only with the engine off, away from ignition sources. Do not smoke while handling fuel. Clean debris from the saw and inspect the chain, bar, controls, and safety parts. Repair damage before the next use.
For seasonal storage, follow the maker’s instructions for fuel, chain, and storage conditions. Keep the saw secured and out of reach of children. Before using it again, inspect it and repeat the start-up checks. A saw that ran well last season still needs a fresh inspection.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is an open-face notch?
An open-face notch is a wide, wedge-shaped opening made on the side of a tree facing its planned fall. Its face cuts meet cleanly, with an opening often around 70–90 degrees. A back cut then leaves a hinge to help guide the tree’s rotation.
How wide should the notch opening be?
A common planning range is about 70–90 degrees. The exact cut must suit the tree and the felling plan. The two face cuts should meet cleanly, without a step. If you are unsure how to lay out the notch, get hands-on training or hire a qualified feller.
How thick should the hinge be?
About 10% of the tree’s diameter can serve as a field-planning starting point, not a universal rule. Species, defects, lean, size, and wood condition matter. Hinge width and shape matter too. Do not use a simple percentage in place of a full tree assessment.
Does an open face make felling safe for beginners?
No. It can help keep the notch open as the tree starts to fall, but it cannot remove hazards such as lean, decay, overhead lines, or a blocked fall zone. A beginner should seek training and avoid hazardous or constrained trees.
How far away should bystanders stay?
Where OSHA logging rules apply, the required distance is at least two tree lengths, subject to the rule’s conditions. Control access and consider nearby operations and local rules. Keep everyone out of the fall zone and do not allow anyone to approach while the tree is moving.
What is a barber chair?
A barber chair is a vertical split in a trunk that can occur as a tree is being felled, especially in a forward-leaning, large, or stressed stem. The trunk can kick back violently. Do not attempt an improvised back cut; stop and get a qualified feller.
Can I use any chainsaw bar that fits the saw?
No. The saw, bar, chain, and sprocket must be compatible under the manufacturer’s specifications. Chain pitch, gauge, and drive-link count must match the bar and sprocket. Confirm the approved setup in the manual rather than relying on bar length alone.
Is 50:1 fuel suitable for every chainsaw?
No. Use 50:1 only if the saw’s manual specifies that ratio. Fuel requirements vary by model. An incorrect mix can damage the engine, so verify the exact requirement before fueling and keep fuel away from heat and ignition sources.
The key decision is not whether the notch can be cut; it is whether the tree and site allow a controlled, safe felling plan. If lean, defects, targets, or overhead hazards make the outcome uncertain, stop and bring in a qualified feller.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Julian Barrett. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
