Junior Giant Arborvitae Spacing (Planting Guide)
For a continuous privacy screen, space Junior Giant arborvitae 5–6 feet apart, measured from trunk center to trunk center. For separate specimens, allow 10–15 feet. Mature plants are commonly listed at about 20–30 feet tall and 10–15 feet wide, but size varies. Check the plant label and site conditions before marking a long row.
A good planting plan starts with the mature plant, not the size of the pot. Junior Giant arborvitae can look small at the nursery, yet its crown needs room to grow. Set plants too close and they may crowd one another later; set them too far apart and a privacy screen may take longer to fill in.
I plan a row on the ground before digging. That simple step helps me check the spacing, row line, access, and room for mature crowns before the work is hard to undo. The guide below covers spacing choices, layout, planting depth, and establishment.
How far apart should Junior Giant arborvitae be planted?
The right distance depends on the job. “On center” means measuring from the middle of one trunk to the middle of the next. Use a closer interval for a connected screen and a wider interval when you want separate plants with space around their crowns.
Junior Giant is commonly listed at about 20–30 feet tall and 10–15 feet wide at maturity. Those figures are a planning guide, not a promise: site conditions and growing conditions affect final size. Before buying a full row, check the nursery label for the cultivar and its listed mature spread.
| Planting goal | Suggested spacing | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Continuous privacy screen | 5–6 ft on center | Crowns have a shorter gap to fill, but may crowd more as plants mature |
| Individual specimens | 10–15 ft on center | More room for each crown to develop and remain distinct |
| Uncertain cultivar or site | Confirm label first | Adjust the plan to the listed mature size and local conditions |
For a screen, 5 feet gives a denser layout sooner than 6 feet, but close planting leaves less room for mature growth. For specimens, select a point within the 10–15-foot range based on how much separation you want. Measure each interval between trunk centers, not between the edges of the root balls.
Choose spacing for the finished landscape
Spacing is a balance between early coverage and long-term room. A tight row may look fuller sooner, but it also leaves less space between crowns later. A wide row gives plants room to stand apart, but it will not create the same close screen as the plants grow.
Think about the use of the row before setting stakes. Check sightlines, the desired level of privacy, access for maintenance, and the expected crown width. Because a mature crown may spread 10–15 feet, individual plants at 10 feet on center may eventually meet or overlap, depending on their actual growth.
A simple planning check helps avoid a common mistake: compare your spacing with the listed mature spread. If you want distinct specimens, choose a distance that supports crown separation. If you want a screen, accept that crowns may touch or overlap as they develop. Do not use nursery pot size as your spacing guide.
Key takeaway: Use 5–6 feet on center for a screen and 10–15 feet on center for specimens, then verify the cultivar label before committing to the full layout.
Mark the row before you dig
A planting center is the point where each trunk will sit. Marking centers first makes spacing easy to verify and gives you a chance to correct the row before any holes are open. It also helps you check the planned line against utilities, access, and nearby features.
- Check the site. Choose a spot with sun to partial shade and soil that drains well. Check for underground utilities before digging. Review local requirements that may apply to setbacks or planting near property lines.
- Set the first center. Mark the intended position of the first plant. Use a tape measure to mark each next center 5–6 feet away for a screen, or 10–15 feet away for specimens.
- Check the whole row. Stand back and inspect the alignment. Confirm the row fits the space and that mature crowns will have room. Consider how you will reach the plants for future care.
- Recheck before backfilling. Once a plant is positioned, confirm its center-to-center distance from the next mark before filling the hole.
Do not assume a straight-looking row has even spacing. On uneven ground, measure from planting center to planting center along the planned row. Keep the line and the spacing consistent, and adjust the layout before planting if the row conflicts with access or a utility location.
Plant at the right depth and width
A planting hole should give roots room to spread sideways without setting the root ball too deep. The root flare is the area where the trunk widens as it meets the roots. Keep that flare at or slightly above the finished soil grade, and make the hole no deeper than the root ball.
Dig the hole two to three times as wide as the root ball. A broad hole gives roots loosened soil to move into. Set the plant in place and check the root flare before backfilling. If the flare is buried, reset the plant rather than covering it with more soil.
Remove the container, ties, and any non-biodegradable burlap. Loosen circling roots gently, then backfill with the soil you removed. Firm the soil by hand to close large air pockets without packing it hard. Water thoroughly after planting.
Wear gloves and eye protection when handling tools, stakes, or packaging. Routine planting does not call for chainsaw gear or mechanical setup. If the root ball is not ready to plant, keep it shaded and moist; do not let roots dry out or sit submerged. Plant promptly when the site is prepared.
Planting check: The hole is broad, not deeper than the root ball, and the root flare remains at grade or slightly above it.
Field examples: screen row or specimen planting?
These examples show how the spacing guidance works in common layouts. They are planning examples, not guarantees of final plant size or coverage. Before planting, check the cultivar label and the conditions at your site, then measure every center point on the ground.
Example 1: A continuous screen. A homeowner wants a close row along a yard edge. They choose 5 feet on center, mark each trunk position, then stand back to check the line and access. That layout follows the suggested screen range. The homeowner also understands that the tighter spacing can mean more crowding as the crowns grow.
Example 2: Separate landscape plants. A land manager wants individual plants rather than a connected screen. They choose a point in the 10–15-foot range based on the desired crown separation, then confirm there is room for the listed mature spread. This avoids relying on the small nursery size as a measure of future space.
Example 3: A row with uncertain mature size. The plant label does not clearly match the expected size. Rather than order plants for a long run, the manager checks with the nursery and confirms the cultivar and mature spread first. That check can prevent a row from being laid out using the wrong assumptions.
These cases share one useful practice: make the spacing decision before purchase or digging, and verify the plant identity when the expected mature size matters.
Water, mulch, and check the row as plants establish
Establishment is the period when a newly planted shrub is settling into its site. Keep soil moisture steady during this time, but do not follow a fixed watering schedule without checking conditions. Soil type, drainage, rainfall, and weather all affect how often water is needed.
Check moisture in the root zone and adjust as conditions change. Water thoroughly after planting. Use mulch as needed, but keep it away from the trunk. Avoid routine shearing unless the desired form calls for it.
Inspect the row each year for poor drainage, buried root flares, and signs of crowding. If the soil stays waterlogged, address the drainage issue rather than trying to solve it with more frequent watering. Persistently wet soil and planting too deeply can lead to root decline and plant failure.
New plants may need protection from drying winds or heavy snow loading where those conditions occur locally. Keep unplanted root balls shaded and moist while you prepare the site, and plant them promptly. Recheck the row line and center distances before backfilling each plant.
Frequently asked questions
How far apart should I plant Junior Giant arborvitae for privacy?
Plant them 5–6 feet on center for a continuous screen. This closer spacing can help the row look fuller sooner, but it leaves less room as plants reach mature size.
What does “on center” mean?
It is the distance from the center of one plant’s trunk to the center of the next. Measure between those points, not between pot edges or root-ball sides.
How far apart should I plant them as specimens?
Allow 10–15 feet on center for individual plants. Choose within that range based on the crown separation you want and the mature spread listed for your cultivar.
How wide do Junior Giant arborvitae get?
They are commonly listed at about 10–15 feet wide. Actual size varies with site and growing conditions, so check the nursery label before setting the layout.
How tall do Junior Giant arborvitae grow?
A commonly listed mature height is about 20–30 feet. Treat that as a planning range, not a guaranteed final height.
Can I plant them closer than 5 feet apart?
The suggested screen spacing is 5–6 feet on center. Do not base a closer distance only on small nursery size; tighter planting can increase long-term crowding.
How deep should the planting hole be?
No deeper than the root ball. Set the root flare at or slightly above finished grade, and dig the hole two to three times as wide as the root ball.
How often should I water after planting?
There is no single interval for every site. Check moisture in the root zone and adjust for rainfall, weather, soil type, and drainage.
Should mulch touch the trunk?
No. Apply mulch as needed, but keep it clear of the trunk so it does not cover the root flare.
What is the main planting mistake to avoid?
Do not bury the root flare or plant in persistently waterlogged soil. Keep the flare at grade and choose a site that drains adequately.
Final spacing check
Plan from the mature plant outward: 5–6 feet on center for a screen, or 10–15 feet for separate specimens. Confirm the cultivar label, mark the row, and check access and utilities before digging. At planting, keep the root flare at grade and the root ball in well-drained soil.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Victor Dempsey. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
