Is Box Elder Good Firewood? (5 Expert Tips for Best Burn)
Is Box Elder Good Firewood? (5 Expert Tips for Best Burn)
Saving money on your heating bill while staying warm and cozy during the colder months is a goal for many. One of the most common ways to achieve this is by using firewood. But not all firewood is created equal. Today, I’m diving deep into the world of Box Elder – a wood species that often gets mixed reviews. Is it worth your time and effort? Let’s find out.
What is Box Elder?
Box Elder (Acer negundo) is a species of maple tree commonly found across North America. It’s often considered a “weed tree” due to its rapid growth and tendency to sprout in disturbed areas. While it might not be the most prized hardwood, it’s readily available in many regions, making it a potential option for firewood.
Box Elder as Firewood: The Pros and Cons
Let’s get straight to the point. Box Elder isn’t the king of firewood, but it’s not the worst either. Here’s a breakdown of its pros and cons:
Pros:
- Easy to Split: Box Elder has a relatively soft and straight grain, making it easy to split, even with hand tools. This is a significant advantage for those of us who prefer splitting wood ourselves.
- Dries Quickly: It seasons faster than denser hardwoods like oak or maple. You can typically get it ready to burn in 6-12 months, depending on your climate.
- Readily Available: In many areas, Box Elder is abundant and often free for the taking if you have permission to remove it from private or public land.
- Lights Easily: Its low density makes it easy to ignite, perfect for starting fires.
- Low Smoke: When properly seasoned, Box Elder produces relatively little smoke.
Cons:
- Low Heat Output: This is the biggest drawback. Box Elder has a low BTU (British Thermal Unit) rating compared to hardwoods like oak, hickory, or maple. This means you’ll need to burn more of it to get the same amount of heat. I’ve found that I need almost twice the volume of Box Elder compared to oak to maintain the same temperature in my wood stove.
- Burns Quickly: It burns fast, requiring more frequent refueling of your fire.
- Can Be Bug-Prone: Box Elder is susceptible to insect infestations, both before and after cutting. I’ve seen entire piles of unseasoned Box Elder riddled with carpenter ants in a single season.
- Unpleasant Odor When Green: Some people find the smell of freshly cut Box Elder to be unpleasant, almost like cat urine. This dissipates as the wood seasons.
- Not Ideal for Long, Cold Nights: If you’re looking for a wood that will hold a fire all night long, Box Elder isn’t it.
The BTU Factor: Understanding Heat Output
BTU (British Thermal Unit) measures the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. It’s the standard unit for measuring the heat output of firewood.
- Box Elder BTU: Approximately 15 million BTU per cord.
- Oak BTU: Approximately 24-30 million BTU per cord.
- Hard Maple BTU: Approximately 20-24 million BTU per cord.
As you can see, Box Elder lags significantly behind the more popular firewood choices. This means you’ll need to burn nearly twice as much Box Elder to get the same heat as oak.
Cost Considerations: Is Box Elder Worth the Effort?
Now, let’s talk about money. Is Box Elder a cost-effective option, even with its lower heat output? The answer depends on several factors:
- Availability: If you can get Box Elder for free, or at a significantly lower price than other firewood options, it might be worth it.
- Effort: Consider the time and effort involved in harvesting, splitting, and seasoning the wood. Is the potential cost savings worth your time?
- Heating Needs: If you only need firewood for occasional use, like campfires or supplemental heat, Box Elder might be sufficient.
- Storage Space: Remember, you’ll need to store more Box Elder than higher-BTU woods to get the same amount of heat.
To make a sound financial decision, I always start by calculating the cost per BTU. This involves dividing the cost of a cord of wood by its BTU rating. For example:
- Box Elder: $100 per cord / 15 million BTU = $0.0000067 per BTU
- Oak: $250 per cord / 25 million BTU = $0.00001 per BTU
In this scenario, even though oak costs more per cord, it’s actually cheaper per BTU. However, if you can get Box Elder for free, your cost per BTU drops to zero, making it the clear winner.
5 Expert Tips for Burning Box Elder
Okay, so you’ve decided to give Box Elder a try. Here are my top 5 tips for getting the best burn:
- Season it Properly: This is crucial. Box Elder needs to be seasoned for at least 6-12 months to reduce its moisture content to below 20%. This ensures it burns efficiently and produces minimal smoke. I use a moisture meter to check the moisture content before burning.
- Split it Small: Because Box Elder burns quickly, splitting it into smaller pieces will help control the burn rate and maximize heat output. Smaller splits also dry faster.
- Mix it with Hardwoods: If possible, mix Box Elder with higher-BTU hardwoods like oak or maple. This will give you a longer, hotter burn. I often use Box Elder to get the fire going and then add hardwoods for sustained heat.
- Use it for Shoulder Season Burning: Box Elder is ideal for those in-between seasons (spring and fall) when you need a little heat but don’t want to overheat your home.
- Don’t Overload Your Fireplace: Because Box Elder burns quickly, it’s easy to overload your fireplace or wood stove. Start with a small fire and add wood gradually as needed.
Harvesting Box Elder: A Step-by-Step Guide
If you’re planning to harvest your own Box Elder, here’s a step-by-step guide:
- Obtain Permission: Always get permission before cutting down trees on private or public land. Many municipalities have regulations regarding tree removal.
- Assess the Tree: Look for dead or dying trees. These are often easier to cut down and will season faster. Avoid trees that are heavily infested with insects.
- Safety First: Wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and sturdy boots.
- Felling the Tree: Use proper felling techniques to ensure the tree falls safely. If you’re not experienced with tree felling, consider hiring a professional arborist.
- Bucking the Logs: Cut the tree into manageable log lengths. I typically cut mine into 16-inch lengths, which fit well in my wood stove.
- Splitting the Wood: Split the logs using a maul, axe, or hydraulic wood splitter.
- Stacking and Seasoning: Stack the wood in a well-ventilated area, off the ground, to allow for proper air circulation. Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow.
Tool Costs: Chainsaws, Splitters, and More
Let’s break down the costs associated with harvesting and processing firewood.
- Chainsaw: A decent quality chainsaw will cost anywhere from $200 to $1000 or more, depending on the brand and features. I recommend investing in a reliable brand like Stihl or Husqvarna.
- Chainsaw Maintenance: Expect to spend around $50-$100 per year on chainsaw maintenance, including sharpening chains, replacing spark plugs, and servicing the engine.
- Wood Splitter: A manual wood splitter (maul or axe) will cost around $50-$100. A hydraulic wood splitter can cost anywhere from $500 to $3000 or more. The size and power of the splitter will depend on the size and type of wood you’re splitting.
- Safety Gear: A helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, and gloves will cost around $50-$100.
- Moisture Meter: A moisture meter is essential for ensuring your firewood is properly seasoned. A decent one will cost around $20-$50.
- Gas and Oil: Factor in the cost of gasoline and chainsaw oil. This can add up quickly, especially if you’re doing a lot of cutting.
Cost Comparison Table: Logging Tools
Tool | Cost Range | Maintenance Costs (Annual) | Notes |
---|---|---|---|
Chainsaw | $200-$1000+ | $50-$100 | Stihl and Husqvarna are reliable brands; consider bar length based on typical log diameter. |
Manual Splitter | $50-$100 | Minimal | Good for smaller volumes and those seeking a workout. |
Hydraulic Splitter | $500-$3000+ | $25-$50 | Saves time and effort, especially for larger logs or high volumes. Consider tonnage rating. |
Safety Gear | $50-$100 | Replacement as needed | Non-negotiable for safety. Ensure proper fit and certification. |
Moisture Meter | $20-$50 | Battery replacement | Crucial for verifying proper seasoning. Aim for moisture content below 20%. |
Example Calculation:
Let’s say you purchase a chainsaw for $500 and a manual wood splitter for $75. You also spend $75 on safety gear and $30 on a moisture meter. Your total initial investment is $680. Assuming you use the equipment for 5 years, your annual cost is $136 (excluding maintenance). Add in $75 per year for chainsaw maintenance and $50 per year for gas and oil, and your total annual cost comes to $261.
Labor Costs: DIY vs. Hiring Help
If you’re not up for the physical labor of harvesting and processing firewood, you can hire someone to do it for you. Labor costs will vary depending on your location and the scope of the project.
- Tree Felling: Hiring a professional arborist to fell a tree can cost anywhere from $100 to $1000 or more, depending on the size and location of the tree.
- Firewood Processing: Some companies offer firewood processing services, where they will come to your property and cut, split, and stack the wood for you. This can cost anywhere from $50 to $100 per cord.
- Firewood Delivery: If you don’t want to deal with any of the work, you can simply have firewood delivered to your home. The cost of delivery will depend on the distance and the amount of wood.
DIY vs. Hiring: Cost Analysis
Task | DIY Cost | Hiring Cost | Considerations |
---|---|---|---|
Tree Felling | Equipment costs, time, risk | $100 – $1000+ (depending on tree size/location) | Safety, experience, insurance; required for large or hazardous trees. |
Wood Splitting | Equipment costs, time, physical effort | $50 – $100 per cord | Physical limitations, time constraints; hydraulic splitter rental may be a middle ground. |
Wood Stacking | Time, physical effort | $20 – $50 per cord | Physical limitations, time constraints. |
Personal Story:
I remember one year, I decided to save money by harvesting all my own firewood. I spent weeks cutting, splitting, and stacking wood. By the end of it, I was exhausted and my back was killing me. In retrospect, I realized that my time was worth more than the money I saved. Now, I typically hire someone to fell the trees and deliver the logs, and I split and stack the wood myself. This allows me to save some money while still preserving my time and energy.
Permits and Regulations: Know the Rules
Before you start cutting down trees, it’s essential to check with your local municipality to see if you need any permits or licenses. Many areas have regulations regarding tree removal, especially in protected areas. Failure to comply with these regulations can result in fines or other penalties.
Example:
In my area, you need a permit to cut down any tree that is larger than 6 inches in diameter on public land. You also need a permit to cut down trees on private land if they are located within a certain distance of a water body.
Drying Time Calculation: Ensuring Optimal Seasoning
The key to burning Box Elder effectively is proper seasoning. Seasoning involves drying the wood to reduce its moisture content to below 20%. This allows the wood to burn efficiently and produce minimal smoke.
The drying time will depend on several factors, including:
- Climate: Warmer, drier climates will result in faster drying times.
- Wood Size: Smaller splits will dry faster than larger logs.
- Stacking Method: Stacking the wood in a well-ventilated area, off the ground, will promote air circulation and speed up the drying process.
- Wood Species: Box Elder dries relatively quickly compared to denser hardwoods.
Estimating Drying Time:
A general rule of thumb is that Box Elder will take 6-12 months to season properly. However, you can use a moisture meter to accurately determine the moisture content of the wood.
Formula:
- Estimated Drying Time (Months) = (Initial Moisture Content – Target Moisture Content) / Drying Rate
Where:
- Initial Moisture Content: The moisture content of the wood when freshly cut (typically around 50%).
- Target Moisture Content: The desired moisture content for burning (below 20%).
- Drying Rate: The rate at which the wood loses moisture per month (this will vary depending on climate and stacking method).
Example:
Let’s say you cut down a Box Elder tree in the spring, and the initial moisture content is 50%. You want to dry it to below 20% for burning. Assuming a drying rate of 5% per month, the estimated drying time would be:
- (50% – 20%) / 5% = 6 months
In this scenario, you would need to season the wood for at least 6 months before burning it.
- Estimate Firewood Needs: Determine how much firewood you’ll need for the heating season. This will depend on the size of your home, the efficiency of your wood stove, and the climate you live in. A cord of wood is a common unit of measure.
- Assess Availability: Determine whether you’ll be harvesting your own wood, buying it from a supplier, or a combination of both.
- Calculate Harvesting Costs: If you’re harvesting your own wood, factor in the costs of equipment, fuel, maintenance, and permits.
- Calculate Processing Costs: Factor in the costs of splitting and stacking the wood. If you’re hiring someone to do this, get quotes from local companies.
- Calculate Storage Costs: Factor in the costs of storing the wood, such as building a woodshed or purchasing a tarp.
- Compare Costs: Compare the costs of harvesting your own wood versus buying it from a supplier. Consider the time and effort involved in each option.
- Create a Budget: Based on your calculations, create a budget for firewood. Be sure to include a contingency fund for unexpected expenses.
Example Budget:
Let’s say you need 4 cords of firewood for the heating season. You plan to harvest 2 cords yourself and buy the other 2 cords from a supplier.
- Harvesting Costs (2 cords):
- Equipment (chainsaw, splitter): $200 (annualized cost)
- Fuel and Maintenance: $100
- Permits: $50
- Total Harvesting Costs: $350
- Purchasing Costs (2 cords):
- Firewood: $200 per cord x 2 cords = $400
- Delivery: $50
- Total Purchasing Costs: $450
- Storage Costs:
- Tarp: $30
- Total Firewood Budget: $350 + $450 + $30 = $830
Cost Optimization Tips:
- Harvest Wood During Off-Peak Season: Prices for standing timber or firewood may be lower during the spring or summer months.
- Buy in Bulk: Purchasing firewood in larger quantities can often result in a lower price per cord.
- Negotiate Prices: Don’t be afraid to negotiate prices with firewood suppliers.
- Maintain Your Equipment: Properly maintaining your equipment will extend its lifespan and reduce repair costs.
- Season Wood Properly: Properly seasoned wood burns more efficiently, reducing the amount of wood you need to burn.
Case Study: Box Elder vs. Oak in a Wood Stove
To illustrate the difference in heat output between Box Elder and Oak, let’s consider a case study using a typical wood stove.
Assumptions:
- Wood Stove Efficiency: 70%
- Home Heating Needs: 50 million BTU per heating season
Scenario 1: Burning Box Elder
- BTU per Cord: 15 million
- Usable BTU (70% efficiency): 10.5 million BTU per cord
- Cords Needed: 50 million BTU / 10.5 million BTU per cord = 4.76 cords
Scenario 2: Burning Oak
- BTU per Cord: 25 million
- Usable BTU (70% efficiency): 17.5 million BTU per cord
- Cords Needed: 50 million BTU / 17.5 million BTU per cord = 2.86 cords
Cost Analysis:
- Box Elder: 4.76 cords x $100 per cord = $476
- Oak: 2.86 cords x $250 per cord = $715
In this case study, burning Box Elder is significantly cheaper than burning Oak, even though you need to burn more of it. However, you would need to factor in the additional storage space required for the Box Elder.
Global and Regional Timber Prices
Timber prices vary significantly depending on the region, species, and quality of the wood. Here are some general trends:
- North America: Prices for hardwoods like oak and maple are typically higher than prices for softwoods like pine and fir. Prices also vary depending on the region, with prices in the Northeast and Midwest being higher than prices in the South.
- Europe: Timber prices in Europe are generally higher than in North America, due to stricter environmental regulations and higher demand for wood products.
- Asia: Timber prices in Asia vary widely depending on the country and the species of wood. Prices for tropical hardwoods like teak and mahogany are typically very high.
Data Sources:
- USDA Forest Service: Provides data on timber prices and timber sales in the United States.
- FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations): Provides data on global timber prices and forest resources.
- Local Timber Markets: Check with local timber mills and firewood suppliers for current prices in your area.
Actionable Takeaways:
- Box Elder can be a viable firewood option if it’s readily available and inexpensive.
- Proper seasoning is crucial for maximizing heat output and minimizing smoke.
- Mix Box Elder with hardwoods for a longer, hotter burn.
- Consider the time and effort involved in harvesting and processing your own firewood.
- Create a budget to track your firewood expenses.
Next Steps for Your Firewood Project
- Assess your firewood needs.
- Determine your firewood source (harvesting or buying).
- Evaluate the cost-effectiveness of Box Elder compared to other firewood options.
- Gather the necessary tools and equipment.
- Obtain any required permits or licenses.
- Season your firewood properly.
- Enjoy the warmth and comfort of a wood-burning fire!
In conclusion, while Box Elder might not be the champion of firewood, it certainly has its place. By understanding its pros and cons, following my expert tips, and carefully considering the cost factors, you can make an informed decision about whether it’s the right choice for your needs. Remember to always prioritize safety and enjoy the process of preparing for a warm and cozy winter!