Husqvarna 576XP vs. 572XP (Comparison Test)

The 576 XP has slightly more displacement, but the 572 XP has a marginally higher published power rating. For most buyers, condition, service history, parts support, and the right bar-and-chain setup matter more than that small paper difference. Choose the 572 XP for its newer platform; consider a sound 576 XP if its condition and price make sense.

If you have several tabs open, the key numbers can seem to point in different directions: the 576 XP is larger, while the 572 XP is rated slightly higher in output. Neither figure alone predicts how quickly a saw will cut in your wood. Chain sharpness, bar setup, operator technique, and the condition of a used saw all affect the result.

I would not call published specifications a comparison test. They do not show timed cuts, fuel use, or vibration measured under the same conditions. So this guide separates confirmed specifications from practical buying advice rather than presenting invented field-test results.

Husqvarna 576 XP vs. 572 XP: the core specifications

This table compares published engine figures for the two models. Output and maximum-power speed describe engine ratings, not guaranteed cutting speed. Bar, chain, and weight details can vary by market and package, so confirm the exact saw’s manual and serial-specific information before buying.

The 576 XP has 2.9 cm³ more displacement, or about 4.1% more. Yet its stated output is about 0.1 kW lower. That small difference is not enough to rank real cutting performance without controlled tests using the same wood, chain, bar, and operator.

Maximum-power speed is the engine speed at which the maker reports peak output. It does not mean that the chain cuts at that speed in every situation. Wood type, chain condition, and load all matter.

Which saw has more power?

The 572 XP has the slightly higher stated output: about 4.3 kW versus about 4.2 kW for the 576 XP. The 576 XP has more displacement. Those are close ratings, so avoid treating either one as a clear performance winner based on specifications alone.

Both are full-size professional saws intended for trained operators doing work such as felling, bucking, and limbing. That does not make them equally suitable for every tree or task. Bar choice must follow the model’s manual, the installed chain and brake setup, the wood diameter, and cutting conditions.

Which model should you buy?

This choice depends less on the small difference in stated output and more on what you can verify about the specific saw. The 572 XP is the newer model in this comparison; a 576 XP may still be a sensible buy if its condition, service record, and price check out.

If you are buying new or want the newer platform, start with the 572 XP. If you are comparing used saws, inspect each one on its own merits. Age, wear, maintenance, and availability of model-specific parts can change the value of a particular machine.

I would not pay a large premium for one model based only on the 0.1 kW rating difference. Nor would I buy the older saw just because its displacement is higher. A poorly maintained saw can erase any advantage on paper.

Before buying, ask for the serial number and the correct manual. Check the saw’s starting and idle behavior, chain brake, oiling, bar and sprocket condition, and signs of damage or poor repair. For a used machine, a qualified service check is more useful than a seller’s claim that it “runs great.”

Equipment Setup and Safety Preparation

Good setup protects both the operator and the saw. Before either model starts, confirm that the bar and chain match, safety parts work, and oil reaches the chain. Use the serial-number-specific manual for compatibility, operating steps, and service settings.

Match the bar, chain, and oil

Both saws commonly use 3/8-inch chain pitch, but pitch alone does not define a compatible chain. Gauge and drive-link count must also match the bar and chain specification. A .050-inch gauge is common, but it is not universal; read the bar markings and verify the exact combination in the manual.

Use fresh unleaded gasoline mixed 50:1, or 2%, only with suitable air-cooled two-stroke oil when that is the manual’s direction. Do not use this ratio for premix products with different label instructions. Never use straight gasoline, guessed ratios, or stale or contaminated fuel. Incorrect fuel can cause severe engine damage, including seizure.

Use bar-and-chain oil, then verify that the oiling system delivers oil before cutting. There is no safe universal oil-flow rate for every bar and chain setup. Set chain depth gauges, often called rakers, to the chain maker’s specification; do not use a guessed universal clearance.

Inspect and start safely

Wear a helmet, eye and face protection, hearing protection, chainsaw-rated leg protection, gloves, and boots. Inspect the chain brake, throttle lockout, chain catcher, chain tension, and bar and chain condition. Plan escape paths and control access to the work area; assess tree lean, wind, targets, and overhead hazards.

Start the saw according to its manual, on stable ground with the chain clear. Engage the brake as directed. Once running, check that the chain does not move at idle. Warm the saw as specified, then confirm operation and oil delivery before cutting.

Field Cutting and Landscaping Operation

Both models are built for demanding saw work, but the safe method stays the same. Use a sharp, sound chain and a manual-approved bar. Plan each cut around the wood and work area, not around the saw’s engine size.

For felling, plan the notch, hinge, and escape route before cutting. The hinge helps guide the tree’s fall, but it must be formed with care and in line with accepted training. Follow ANSI Z133 and applicable OSHA requirements where relevant to the work.

For bucking and limbing, keep secure footing and use controlled cuts. Do not cut above shoulder height. Do not force a dull chain through wood; stop, secure the saw, and sharpen or replace the chain before continuing.

Rotational kickback can happen when the upper quadrant at the guide-bar nose contacts wood or another object. The saw can move toward the operator before there is time to react. Maintain a firm two-handed grip, avoid nose contact, and keep the chain brake working. A brake is a safeguard, not a substitute for safe technique.

These are heavy, powerful saws for trained users. If the work involves a tree under tension, difficult lean, overhead hazards, or a location where a fall could hit people or property, get qualified help rather than relying on engine size or experience alone.

Maintenance, Sharpening, and Authorized Tuning

Regular checks keep performance consistent and help catch faults early. Follow the exact Husqvarna manual for service intervals and settings. Avoid changing carburetor limits by guesswork; tuning should follow authorized procedures and be handled by a qualified technician when needed.

After use, check chain tension and inspect the chain, bar, and sprocket area for damage or unusual wear. Clean the air filter, bar groove, oil ports, and sprocket area as the manual directs. Keep the chain sharp and set its depth gauges to the chain manufacturer’s specification.

If the saw will not idle properly, the chain moves at idle, oil delivery is absent, or the brake does not work as intended, stop using it until the fault is corrected. These symptoms do not identify one cause by themselves; avoid adjusting settings at random.

Shutdown, Storage, and Seasonal Care

A careful shutdown reduces risk during cleaning and storage. Engage the brake, switch the saw off, and let it cool before service. Clean and inspect it, then cover the chain for transport or storage.

Store fuel and the saw according to the manual and local rules. Before the next use, inspect the saw again rather than assuming storage kept it ready. Check chain condition and tension, brake operation, and oil delivery before cutting.

Practical comparison cases

These are buying scenarios, not controlled test results. They show how the same specification table can lead to different choices depending on the saw’s condition and your work.

• A clean 572 XP and a worn 576 XP at similar prices: The 572 XP is the safer starting point, but confirm service history and test both saws where possible.
• A well-maintained 576 XP at a much lower price: It may offer better value if the saw passes inspection and you can verify parts and service support.
• Two used saws with unknown histories: Do not decide by displacement. Pay for a qualified inspection or walk away if key safety or engine checks cannot be made.
• A buyer choosing a long bar for larger wood: Check the model-specific manual and full bar-and-chain combination first. A larger displacement figure does not make every bar compatible.

The practical takeaway is simple: compare the individual saws, not only the model names. A good service record and correct setup matter more than a narrow paper-spec difference.

FAQ: Husqvarna 576 XP and 572 XP

These quick answers focus on the buying and setup questions that matter most. Always use the manual for your exact saw, since specifications and compatible parts can differ by market, revision, and bar package.

Which Husqvarna saw has more displacement?
The 576 XP has 73.5 cm³ displacement. The 572 XP has 70.6 cm³.

Which model has the higher published output?
The 572 XP is rated at about 4.3 kW, compared with about 4.2 kW for the 576 XP.

Does the 576 XP cut faster because it has a larger engine?
Not necessarily. Cutting speed also depends on chain sharpness, bar setup, wood, and operating conditions. The published figures do not establish a controlled cutting-speed winner.

Are both saws suitable for professional work?
Both are full-size saws intended for trained operators doing tasks such as felling, bucking, and limbing. Suitability depends on the job, operator skill, and correct setup.

Can I use the same bar on both models?
Do not assume so. Confirm the permitted bar, chain pitch, gauge, and drive-link count for each saw using its exact manual and installed brake setup.

Do both use a 50:1 fuel mix?
The specified mix is fresh unleaded gasoline at 50:1 with suitable air-cooled two-stroke oil. Follow the oil product label and the saw manual; do not apply that ratio to premix products with different directions.

Is .050-inch chain gauge correct for both?
It is common, but not universal. Match chain gauge and drive-link count to the bar, and verify the combination in the manual.

Which one is the better used buy?
The one with the better verified condition, service history, correct parts, and safety-system function. Do not choose by displacement alone.

What should I do if the chain moves at idle?
Stop using the saw and have the cause checked. Do not continue cutting or try random adjustments; consult the manual or a qualified service provider.

Can I tune either saw by adjusting the carburetor myself?
Use only the manual’s authorized procedure. Do not alter carburetor limits by guesswork; seek qualified service if the saw needs tuning.

(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Marcus Thorne. Visit our Meet the Team page.)