Husqvarna 55 vs. Stihl 026 (Pro Chainsaw Test)

The Husqvarna 55 has more displacement, at about 53.2 cc, than the Stihl 026 at about 48.7 cc, but that alone does not prove it cuts faster or is the better buy. Both can suit routine bucking and suitable felling when correctly maintained. For either saw, condition, exact bar and chain setup, and your work matter more than the badge.

Comparing these older saws can feel harder than comparing new models: listings may omit key details, and a bar length or “pro” label does not tell you how a used saw runs. I would start with the saw’s condition and serial-specific manual, then check the fitted bar, chain, and sprocket together. That makes it easier to avoid buying a saw that needs costly repairs or arrives with an unsuitable setup.

This is a specifications-and-inspection comparison, not a controlled cutting test. I can compare the known displacement figures, but I won’t claim measured torque, vibration, cutting time, or reliability without verified test data. On a used saw, those results also depend on wear, repairs, chain sharpness, and tuning.

Husqvarna 55 vs. Stihl 026: key specifications

These figures help identify the main difference, but they cannot settle a used-saw purchase on their own. Both models have appeared in different configurations over their production lives. Confirm the exact version and parts against its serial number and manual before choosing a bar, chain, fuel mix, or service setting.

What the displacement difference means

Displacement is the total volume moved by the engine’s pistons. The 55 has about 4.5 cc more displacement than the 026, a difference that may matter under load, but it does not establish cutting speed, torque, or fuel use. Those depend on more than engine size, including saw condition and chain sharpness.

A healthy saw with a sharp, correctly matched chain may outperform a worn saw with more displacement. I would not pay extra for either model based on cc alone. Ask for a cold start, inspect the saw, and, if possible, have a qualified shop assess compression and engine condition.

Why model names do not fix bar and chain fit

Chain pitch is the distance between chain rivets, while gauge is the thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. Drive-link count is the number of links in the chain loop. All three must match the bar, and pitch must also match the sprocket.

A common configuration for these saws uses 3/8-inch pitch, but that is not a universal rule. Read the bar markings and confirm the sprocket and chain details before ordering. A chain that looks close can still be the wrong fit. Do not assume a listed bar length is approved for every version or job.

Used-saw inspection: two practical scenarios

These examples are inspection scenarios, not reports of controlled field tests. They show how I would assess each saw before purchase. The aim is to separate a model’s potential from the state of the individual machine, then identify what needs confirmation before it is put to work.

Scenario: checking a Husqvarna 55 listed with a long bar

A long bar in a sale listing does not prove the setup is suitable. I would first read the bar markings, count the chain’s drive links if needed, and verify pitch and gauge against both bar and sprocket. Then I would check for damaged rails, a worn sprocket, a loose chain, and evidence that oil reaches the bar.

Scenario: checking a Stihl 026 described as “ready to cut”

That phrase is not a mechanical inspection. I would ask to see a cold start and confirm the chain stays still at idle. With the engine off, I would check the chain brake, chain catcher, throttle interlock, bar, chain, and sprocket. I would also look for damaged fuel lines, loose mounts, and blocked cooling fins.

A saw that starts is not necessarily a sound saw. If it stalls, runs unevenly, leaks fuel, or has a brake that does not function, do not treat a brief demonstration as proof that it is ready. Have a qualified technician inspect it before use.

Which saw fits your cutting work?

Both saws can be candidates for routine bucking and appropriately sized felling by a trained operator. Neither should be selected by bar length alone. Wood diameter and species, saw condition, chain, operator skill, and manufacturer-approved setup all affect what a saw can safely handle.

A longer bar does not make a saw suitable for every tree. For hazardous felling near people, buildings, roads, or utilities, use qualified help and appropriate controls. Work on tree care should follow applicable ANSI Z133 practices; logging work must follow applicable site rules and OSHA requirements.

Setup, maintenance, and safe operation

A sound comparison includes more than the engine. Before cutting, check protective equipment, controls, chain condition, tension, bar oil delivery, and the work area. Use the exact manual for starting and service steps. Stop and correct faults rather than trying to compensate for them with a different chain or improvised tuning.

Before the first cut

Wear chainsaw-protective legwear, a helmet with eye and face protection, hearing protection, gloves, and suitable boots. Check the chain brake with the engine off, and inspect the throttle interlock and chain catcher. A working brake is important, but it does not replace safe technique.

Start the saw by the procedure in its manual, on stable ground, with the brake engaged and the bar clear. Confirm that the chain does not move at idle, then verify bar-oil delivery as directed by the manual. Use tackified chainsaw bar oil suited to the ambient conditions; do not rely on a universal flow-rate figure for these models.

Plan footing, work-zone limits, and escape routes before cutting. Keep the saw below shoulder height, use two hands, and avoid the bar tip. Contact between the upper tip quadrant and wood or another object can cause rotational kickback, which can drive the saw toward the operator. Shut down before clearing jams, moving the saw, or adjusting chain tension.

Sharpening and engine service

Follow the chain maker’s filing angles and cutter limits. Set depth gauges, also called rakers, to the specification for the exact chain. A 0.025-inch (0.65 mm) setting is common on some chains, but it is not universal. A dull chain increases feed force and heat; stop to sharpen rather than forcing the cut.

Clean the air filter and cooling fins, and inspect the spark plug, fuel lines, mounts, bar groove, oil ports, sprocket, and brake. Replace damaged or out-of-spec parts before operation. Tune the carburetor only by the correct service procedure, using a tachometer where specified. Generic screw positions or RPM limits can damage an engine.

Which one should you buy?

There is no reliable winner based on displacement alone. If both saws are in similar condition and priced fairly, choose by the work you do and the verified setup you can support. If one has a sound engine, working safety parts, and a correctly matched bar and chain while the other needs repairs, the better-maintained saw is usually the more practical candidate.

Before paying, confirm the serial number, manual, parts fit, and service history where available. Check cold starting, idle, chain brake, oil delivery, bar condition, sprocket wear, and chain match. Budget for repairs you can verify, not promises about performance. If a seller will not allow a basic inspection, consider another example.

For storage, follow the specific manual’s fuel-draining or stabilization procedure. Use fresh, correctly mixed fuel for operation, and store fuel in an approved, labeled container away from ignition sources. Let the saw cool before cleaning or transport, fit the bar cover, and store it securely away from children.

FAQs about the Husqvarna 55 and Stihl 026

These short answers address the buying and setup questions that matter most. Since both are legacy saws with different versions and decades of possible service history, use the serial-specific manual and the markings on the actual parts for final fit and maintenance decisions.

Is the Husqvarna 55 more powerful than the Stihl 026?

The 55 has more displacement, about 53.2 cc versus 48.7 cc. That does not, by itself, prove greater cutting speed or power in a particular used saw. Condition, tuning, bar, and chain matter.

Which saw is better for firewood?

Either may suit routine bucking when the saw is in good condition and the setup fits the work. Compare the individual saws, not just their model names, and use a sharp, correctly matched chain.

Do both saws use a 50:1 fuel mix?

Use 50:1 as a baseline only when the applicable manufacturer-recommended oil supports it. Check the exact saw manual and oil label before mixing; do not infer a ratio from brand or age.

Can I use the same chain on both models?

Not automatically. Chain pitch, gauge, and drive-link count must match the fitted bar, and pitch must match the sprocket. Check markings before buying.

Is 3/8-inch pitch correct for every Husqvarna 55 and Stihl 026?

No. It is a common configuration, not a guarantee. Confirm the pitch on the bar and sprocket for the specific saw.

What is the correct raker setting?

Use the chain manufacturer’s specification for the exact chain. A 0.025-inch (0.65 mm) setting is common on some chains but is not correct for every chain.

Which one is more reliable?

There is no verified universal reliability winner here. A used saw’s maintenance, repairs, wear, and storage matter. Have a qualified technician inspect a saw with signs of damage or uncertain service history.

Are either of these saws suitable for large-tree felling?

Do not decide by model name or bar length alone. Tree size, hazards, operator training, saw condition, and approved setup matter. For high-consequence work, use a qualified crew and suitable equipment.

(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Marcus Thorne. Visit our Meet the Team page.)