Husqvarna 340 .325 Chain (Fitment Guide)
The Husqvarna 340 commonly uses a .325-inch-pitch chain with a .050-inch (1.3 mm) gauge, but those numbers alone do not confirm fit. Common setups are 66 drive links on a 16-inch bar and 72 on an 18-inch bar. Check the bar stamp, chain length, drive sprocket, and replacement bar instructions before buying or fitting a chain.
Matching the chain you already have is usually cheaper than discovering a mismatch after opening a new package. The key is to check the bar and chain, not rely on the saw model or bar length alone. The 340 is a 40.8 cc, air-cooled, two-stroke saw, but its bar and replacement parts can vary by setup.
Before heading out, find the bar markings and check your old chain’s drive-link count. If either is missing or unclear, pause and confirm the exact bar and sprocket specifications in the saw or bar manual. A correct match helps the chain run as intended; a wrong one can fit poorly, derail, or damage parts.
Husqvarna 340 bar, chain, and safety setup
A chain fits only when its pitch, gauge, drive-link count, and bar mount match the saw’s bar and drive system. The bar’s stamped markings and the chain manufacturer’s details are the best starting points. Treat common 340 combinations as a guide, not a guarantee for every saw or replacement bar.
Check these four fitment details first:
- Pitch: The distance used to size the chain and related drive components. The common 340 setup is .325 inch. The chain pitch must match both the drive sprocket and the bar nose.
- Gauge: The thickness of the chain’s drive links, which run inside the bar groove. Common 340 chains use .050 inch (1.3 mm), but some replacement bars or configurations may differ. Match the chain gauge to the bar groove.
- Drive-link count: The number of links that sit in the bar groove. Common examples are 66 links for a 16-inch setup and 72 for an 18-inch setup. Confirm the bar stamp or count the old chain; bar length by itself does not establish the count.
- Bar mount: The shape and dimensions where the bar attaches to the saw. It must suit the 340 and its tensioning and oiling points. Confirm the replacement bar is listed for the exact saw configuration.
| Common setup to verify | Pitch | Gauge | Drive links | What to check |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 16-inch bar | .325 in | .050 in (1.3 mm) | 66 | Confirm bar stamp, sprocket, and mount |
| 18-inch bar | .325 in | .050 in (1.3 mm) | 72 | Confirm bar stamp, sprocket, and mount |
These are common combinations, not a promise that every 340 has them. A replacement bar can call for a different gauge or chain length. If the old chain and bar stamp disagree, do not guess: identify the bar and verify the required chain before installation.
Worked fitment checks: If your 16-inch bar is stamped .325 and .050, and its old chain has 66 drive links, those details line up with a common setup. You still need to confirm the mount and drive sprocket. If a new chain has 72 links, do not assume you can make it fit by adjusting the tensioner. Recheck the bar specification and chain count.
Before fitting, switch off the saw and let it cool. Engage the chain brake for handling, and wear gloves when working around the cutters. Inspect the bar rails, groove, oil holes, sprocket, chain catcher, brake, throttle lockout, and fasteners. Do not use a cracked, damaged, or badly worn chain or bar.
Field cutting and landscaping operation
A sound pre-use check confirms that the saw starts, idles, brakes, and oils the chain as expected before it enters wood. Use fresh fuel at the specified mix, fill the bar-oil reservoir, and follow the 340 manual’s starting steps. Stop and correct a fault before cutting; do not try to work around it.
Fuel and oil: The 340 uses a 50:1 gasoline-to-two-stroke-oil mix when the manual calls for that ratio. That equals 20 mL of oil per 1 L of gasoline, or 100 mL per 5 L. Use quality air-cooled two-stroke oil and follow the saw manual and oil maker’s fuel and octane guidance. Never run straight gasoline in this two-stroke engine.
Fill the separate reservoir with purpose-made bar-and-chain oil. Keep it filled during use. Oil-pump output is not a fixed user-set flow rate, so follow the manual’s oiling check rather than adjusting by guesswork.
Start and check: Start on stable ground using the procedure in the manual, including its directions for the chain brake. At idle, the chain must remain stationary. Check brake function and chain lubrication using the manual’s test. If the chain moves at idle, the brake fails to work, or oiling is not evident, stop and diagnose the problem before cutting.
For cutting, use a sharp, correctly tensioned chain and maintain a firm two-handed grip. Keep the bar nose clear of the wood and nearby objects. Contact with the upper quadrant of the bar nose can cause rapid rotational kickback toward the operator. A chain brake is an important safety feature, not a substitute for safe technique. Avoid cutting above shoulder height.
For tree work, assess lean, defects, overhead hazards, and escape routes before starting. Felling and elevated work require appropriate training and equipment; use trained, properly equipped help when the task is beyond your experience.
Service-speed references: Common 340 service data lists about 2,700 rpm at idle and 12,500 rpm maximum no-load speed. Confirm the figures for your exact saw in its manual. Use a tachometer for service checks; do not tune by ear or exceed the specified limit.
Chain sharpening, tension, and saw maintenance
A sharp chain cuts with less need to force the saw, while a dull chain can produce fine dust, burn wood, and increase strain during cutting. Use the chain maker’s specified file size and sharpening angles because those details depend on the chain type. Identify the chain before filing rather than choosing a file from the saw model alone.
Look for chain information on the package, chain markings, or the manufacturer’s chart. Many .325-inch chains use a 3/16-inch round file and a 30-degree top-plate angle, but these are not universal specifications. Follow the maker’s instructions for your exact chain. Keep the file level as directed, use a guide, and sharpen cutters evenly on both sides.
Depth gauges control how much wood each cutter can take. A .025-inch (0.65 mm) setting is a common reference, not a universal target. Use the chain manufacturer’s specification and the matching depth-gauge tool; do not lower gauges by guesswork. A depth gauge set too low can make the chain cut aggressively and increase kickback risk.
Check tension with the saw off and cool, following the manual’s adjustment method. The chain should sit in the bar groove, and the drive links should remain engaged as you rotate the chain by hand with gloves. Do not run a chain that sags, binds, or has damaged links. Recheck tension after fitting and during work as needed, following the manual.
| Symptom | What to check | Next step |
|---|---|---|
| Chain smokes or cuts slowly | Sharpness, tension, and oil supply | Stop; sharpen or replace as needed and confirm oiling |
| Chain sags from the bar | Tension and wear | Adjust per manual; inspect links and bar |
| Chain binds or will not turn by hand | Brake, tension, fit, or damage | Stop and inspect; do not force it |
| Fine dust instead of chips | Cutter sharpness | Sharpen to chain-maker specifications |
After cutting, switch off and let the chain stop before handling. Engage the brake for service, let the saw cool, and clean the bar groove, oil holes, sprocket cover, and air-intake area. Check for damaged cutters, loose fasteners, rail wear, and abnormal sprocket wear. Correct issues before the next use.
Storage and seasonal care
Good storage starts with a clean, inspected saw and the fuel guidance in the model manual. Fuel and oil choices affect the saw and chain system, so follow the manufacturer’s storage directions rather than assuming one method suits every season. Keep the chain protected during transport and storage.
Remove debris from the bar groove and sprocket area, then inspect the chain and bar before putting the saw away. Follow the manual on whether to drain fuel or use a stabilizing approach, and store fuel safely in an approved container. Keep the saw dry and out of reach of children.
Before the next job, check chain fit and tension again, fill the bar-oil reservoir, and confirm that the brake works. If the chain or bar was replaced, verify its pitch, gauge, drive-link count, mount, and sprocket compatibility once more.
Quick decision and fitment FAQ
Use the bar stamp and chain specifications to settle fitment before purchase. If the key details do not agree, do not force a chain onto the saw or rely on bar length as proof. The answers below cover common questions, but the manual and the exact bar and chain instructions take priority.
What chain size does a Husqvarna 340 use?
A common setup is .325-inch pitch and .050-inch (1.3 mm) gauge. Drive-link count depends on the bar and must be verified.
How many drive links does a 16-inch Husqvarna 340 chain have?
A common 16-inch setup uses 66 drive links. Check the bar stamp or count the old chain before ordering.
How many drive links does an 18-inch Husqvarna 340 chain have?
A common 18-inch setup uses 72 drive links. Confirm the bar’s requirements; length alone does not confirm fit.
Can I buy any .325-inch chain for the 340?
No. Match pitch, gauge, drive-link count, bar mount, and sprocket compatibility. The pitch alone is not enough.
Can I use a .058-inch gauge chain if my bar is .050 inch?
No. The chain gauge must match the bar groove. Verify the bar and chain specifications before fitting a different gauge.
What file size should I use on the chain?
Use the file size listed by the chain manufacturer for that exact chain. Some .325-inch chains call for a 3/16-inch file, but it is not universal.
What sharpening angle should I use?
Follow the chain maker’s sharpening guide. A 30-degree top-plate angle is common on some chains, but chain type determines the correct setting.
What fuel mix does the Husqvarna 340 use?
The specified mix is 50:1 when confirmed by the manual: 20 mL of two-stroke oil per 1 L of gasoline. Never use straight gasoline.
Why is my chain burning wood or cutting slowly?
A dull chain is one possible cause. Stop and check sharpness, tension, and chain oiling. Do not force the saw through the cut.
How do I confirm the chain is getting oil?
Use the oiling check in the saw manual and keep the reservoir filled with bar-and-chain oil. Stop if lubrication is not working as specified.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, David Hensley. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
