Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw (Buyer’s Guide)

The Husqvarna 266 is a roughly 66.7 cc, older professional chainsaw that may suit experienced users who need a serviceable, powerful saw. Before buying one, verify whether it is a 266 or 266 XP, inspect its condition, and confirm the bar, chain, sprocket, and fuel mix from the saw’s exact manual.

“Measure twice, cut once.” That old saying fits buying a used chainsaw as well as using one. A model name and a long bar can look impressive in a listing, but neither proves that a particular saw is safe, correctly matched, or worth its asking price.

I assess an older saw by its exact identity and condition, not its reputation alone. The 266 family can be a capable choice, but it is not a simple pick for every buyer. Here’s how to check whether the saw fits your work and what to verify before you spend.

Is the Husqvarna 266 the right saw for you?

The 266 is a roughly 66.7 cc gasoline chainsaw intended for demanding cutting by experienced users. It can suit work that calls for more power than a homeowner saw, but its age and condition matter as much as its displacement. Buy it only if you can verify its parts, service needs, and safe operation.

The 266 and 266 XP are related models, but a listing that says “266” does not confirm which version you are getting. Look for the model marking on the saw and compare it with the correct operator’s manual. Production versions and specifications can differ, so do not rely on a seller’s memory or a generic parts listing.

Who should consider one?

• An experienced operator who needs a substantial gas saw for regular cutting.
• A buyer who can inspect a used machine or have a qualified shop check it.
• Someone able to find the right chain, bar, and service parts for the exact version.

Who should look elsewhere?

• A first-time user who needs a light, simple saw.
• Anyone who cannot confirm the model, condition, or correct chain fit.
• A buyer expecting a modern warranty or easy access to every replacement part.

I would not choose the 266 by displacement alone. A healthy saw with a correctly matched, sharp chain may work better than a worn example with a longer bar. If you need a saw for occasional light pruning, this model may be more saw than the job calls for.

What specifications and bar length should you check?

Specifications help narrow the search, but they do not replace a manual or a physical inspection. The 266 family is about 66.7 cc, while bar length, chain gauge, and drive-link count depend on the actual setup. Verify each item on the saw and its bar before ordering parts or starting work.

For many users, a 20–24 inch bar is a practical general-use range if the exact saw is approved for it and the chain matches. That is a starting point, not a promise that every 266 should carry that bar. Choose based on wood size, operator skill, saw condition, and the maker’s fit guidance.

A long bar does not make a saw suitable for every large tree. It adds load and gives the nose more chances to contact wood or branches. If most of your work uses smaller cuts, a shorter approved bar may be easier to control.

How should you inspect a used 266 before buying?

A used-saw check can reveal warning signs, but it cannot certify a machine’s safety or engine health. Inspect the controls, cutting parts, leaks, and starting behavior, then ask for service records and the correct manual. If you find serious damage or cannot test the saw safely, walk away or budget for a shop inspection.

Use a calm, step-by-step check. Do not let a brief start-up demonstration replace a close look at the saw.

• Confirm the identity: Read the model marking and compare it with the seller’s description. Ask which manual and parts list they use.
• Inspect the body: Look for cracks, loose handles, missing fasteners, fuel or oil leaks, and damage around the case.
• Check safety controls: The chain brake, throttle lockout, stop switch, and chain catcher should be present and appear intact. A visual check does not prove that the brake works; test it only as the manual directs.
• Check the cutting setup: Look for a damaged bar, worn or uneven rails, a blocked oil hole, loose chain, damaged cutters, or a badly worn sprocket.
• Ask about the engine: Request a cold start if possible. Note hard starting, unstable idle, unusual smoke, or abnormal noise, but do not treat a successful start as proof of good internal condition.
• Check service history: Ask about recent repairs, storage, fuel mix, and the reason for sale. Vague answers are not proof of a fault, but they add uncertainty.

As a buyer-side example, a saw with a clear model marking, intact controls, a readable bar stamp, and a matching chain is easier to assess than one sold with unknown parts. If the model is unclear or the bar and chain do not match, pause the purchase until you identify the correct setup.

How do you prepare the saw and work area?

Preparation means checking the saw, your protective equipment, and the work zone before cutting. Follow the exact operator’s manual and applicable safety rules, including relevant ANSI Z133 practices. A sound saw cannot make a hazardous site safe; plan the cut and escape route before the engine starts.

Wear a helmet, eye and face protection, hearing protection, chainsaw-rated leg protection, gloves, and suitable boots. Check the chain tension, cutters, bar, fasteners, fuel and oil caps, and controls. Make sure the chain is clear before starting, and use the manual’s starting method.

Use fresh fuel mixed to the ratio stated for the exact saw and oil. Many Husqvarna two-stroke instructions specify 50:1 (2%) with Husqvarna two-stroke oil, while some older manuals give a different ratio with other oil. If you cannot find the right manual, do not guess. Never use straight gasoline in a two-stroke saw.

Before a cut, check the wood and the ground. Consider species, diameter, lean, overhead hazards, and whether the wood is under compression or tension. Clear bystanders and plan an escape path. For covered logging operations, OSHA 1910.266 generally requires other trees and workers to be at least two tree lengths away during tree felling; follow the rules that apply to your location and site.

How should you operate the 266 in the field?

Safe operation depends on control, a suitable chain, and a cut planned for the wood. Keep a firm stance and use both hands. Keep the bar nose clear of the material, avoid cutting above shoulder height, and stop if the saw binds, the wood moves unexpectedly, or the machine behaves abnormally.

Rotational kickback can happen when the upper quadrant near the bar nose touches wood. The saw can move up and toward the operator very quickly. Keep the nose clear, use a working chain brake, and use equipment that meets the saw and chain makers’ guidance. A brake is not a reason to risk nose contact.

Plan each cut for the wood’s weight and internal stress. If a kerf closes, the bar binds, or the tree shifts, stop and reassess rather than forcing the saw. Felling standing trees calls for training and a site-specific plan. Hinge size and notch cuts depend on the tree and conditions, so a fixed recipe is not a safe substitute for competent judgment.

What maintenance does a 266 need?

Routine care helps spot wear and keeps the saw ready, but service limits must come from the correct manual. Clean the air filter and cooling areas as directed, maintain the bar and chain, and use the specified test for oil delivery. For carburetor settings and engine-speed limits, use the exact service information and proper tools.

A dull or mismatched chain can make cutting harder and increase heat, binding, and derailment risk. Sharpen to the chain maker’s instructions, including its depth-gauge setting. There is no single depth-gauge clearance that applies to every chain.

Use proper bar-and-chain oil and check delivery by the manual’s procedure. Oil flow and suitable oil can vary with temperature and bar setup. Do not substitute an assumed flow rate or one oil viscosity for the saw’s instructions.

Carburetor settings are not a “tune by ear” task. Published idle and maximum no-load speed values can vary by version and carburetor. Use a tachometer and the exact manual’s specifications; do not exceed the stated maximum. If you lack the right tools or service data, use a qualified technician.

How should you store and assess fuel?

Good storage limits avoidable damage and makes the next inspection easier. After work, shut the saw off, wait for the chain to stop, and let the machine cool before servicing or refueling. Clean it as the manual directs, fit the chain guard, and handle fuel according to the manual and local rules.

Clear debris from the clutch-cover area, cooling fins, air filter, and bar groove and oil hole as directed. Inspect the chain, bar, and brake before storing the saw. Keep fuel fresh and correctly mixed; do not assume old fuel is suitable for the next job.

If the saw will sit for a long period, follow its manual for fuel-system preparation and storage. Do not invent a procedure from advice for a different model. Store the saw securely, with the chain covered and fuel kept in an approved container.

Is a used Husqvarna 266 a good buy?

A used 266 can make sense when its identity is clear, its condition is sound, and the price reflects the risk of an older saw. It is a poor bet when the seller cannot explain its setup, parts are mismatched, or safety controls are damaged. Compare the full repair and parts cost, not just the purchase price.

Before buying, answer these questions:

• Can I confirm the exact model and find the right manual?
• Does the bar fit the saw, and do pitch, gauge, and drive links match?
• Do the controls and safety parts appear complete and functional?
• Can I test the saw safely or arrange a qualified inspection?
• Can I source the parts and service I may need?

If any key answer is no, pause. A lower price does not offset a setup you cannot verify.

Frequently asked questions

How many cc is a Husqvarna 266?
The 266 family is approximately 66.7 cc. Confirm the exact model and version on the saw.

Is the 266 the same as the 266 XP?
They are related but distinct model designations. Verify the model marking and use the matching manual and parts information.

What bar length should I use on a 266?
A 20–24 inch bar can be a practical general-use range when approved for the exact saw. Choose for the wood, operator, and saw condition.

What chain pitch does a Husqvarna 266 use?
Common setups use 3/8-inch pitch, but verify the drive sprocket and bar. The chain must match both.

Is the chain gauge always .050 inch?
No. Read the bar stamp. Do not infer gauge from the chainsaw model name.

What fuel mix should I use?
Use the ratio in the exact operator’s manual for the saw and oil. Do not use straight gasoline or guess if the manual is unavailable.

Can I tune the carburetor by ear?
No. Use the correct service specifications and a tachometer for engine-speed settings. A qualified technician is the safer choice without proper tools.

Is the Husqvarna 266 suitable for hardwood?
It can cut hardwood if the saw is in sound condition and the bar and sharp chain suit the cut. Wood species alone does not establish a safe cutting limit.

What is the biggest kickback risk to remember?
The upper quadrant near the bar nose can cause rotational kickback if it contacts wood. Keep that area clear and maintain the chain brake.

Should I buy a 266 that starts but has no service history?
Starting is useful information, not proof of condition. Inspect it carefully and consider a qualified check before paying or using it.

(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Marcus Thorne. Visit our Meet the Team page.)