Husqvarna 240 Chainsaw (Pricing Guide)
A used Husqvarna 240 is generally worth considering at about $80–$180 if it runs well, passes safety checks, and has a sound bar and chain. A clean, serviced example may justify $150–$250; a non-runner is usually a $20–$75 project. These are approximate U.S. asking-price bands, not a live appraisal or guarantee of value.
If you have several listings open, the price alone will not tell you which saw is the better buy. The Husqvarna 240 is a discontinued 38.2 cc homeowner saw, so condition, correct parts, and evidence of care matter more than a seller’s claim that it “runs great.” I compare the total cost of getting a safe, working saw, not just the number on the listing.
I also separate light cleanup and bucking from demanding felling work. The 240’s stated power is 1.5 kW. That can suit some homeowner tasks, but it does not make this a professional felling saw. Check the exact saw and its manual before you buy, especially if you need a particular bar or replacement parts.
Husqvarna 240 price ranges
These ranges describe approximate U.S. used-market asking prices, not verified sale prices or a formal appraisal. Local supply, condition, included equipment, and repair needs can shift the figure. Use the bands to sort listings, then inspect the saw and price any likely repairs before deciding what it is worth to you.
| Asking price | What you may find | How to judge the price |
|---|---|---|
| $20–$75 | Non-running saw or repair project | Pay only after considering diagnosis, parts, and the risk that it may not be economical to repair. |
| $80–$180 | Running used saw | Look for a working chain brake, sound bar and chain, and no clear engine or oiling fault. |
| $150–$250 | Clean, serviced example | Ask for maintenance details and inspect the saw yourself. A higher price is not proof of good condition. |
A low-priced saw can become expensive if it needs an engine repair, bar, chain, or several smaller parts. On the other hand, paying more for a clean saw makes sense only if its condition supports the premium. The 240 is discontinued, so check that the parts you may need are available before committing to a damaged or incomplete machine.
When I compare listings, I treat “starts” as one checkpoint, not a verdict. A seller may demonstrate a start without showing that the brake works, the chain stops at idle, or oil reaches the chain. Ask for an inspection and a cold start when possible. If the seller will not allow basic checks, factor that uncertainty into the price or pass.
Check the model, bar, and chain before buying
The bar is the guide that carries the chain, and its fit depends on more than the saw’s model name. Check the saw’s bar mount and the bar’s stamped pitch, gauge, and drive-link count. Those markings identify key parts of the chain system, so do not buy a replacement based on “fits a 240” alone.
The model’s listed displacement is 38.2 cm³ and its stated power is 1.5 kW. A commonly listed bar range is 13–16 inches, but the approved setup depends on configuration. Confirm the exact saw and consult its manual or a qualified dealer before choosing a bar. A longer bar is not automatically a better choice for your work.
A common chain setup for this saw is 3/8-inch low-profile pitch and .050-inch (1.3 mm) gauge. Treat that as a starting point, not proof of fit. Verify the bar stamp and sprocket, then match the chain’s pitch, gauge, and drive-link count to the bar and saw. A mismatch can prevent proper fit or safe operation.
Inspect the bar rails for uneven wear or damage, and check the chain for cracked or badly worn links. Look for a sound sprocket and a working chain catcher. If the chain or bar needs replacement, include that cost in your offer rather than assuming the included parts are usable.
Evaluate a used saw before paying
A pre-purchase inspection helps separate a usable saw from a project with hidden costs. Check the engine, safety parts, bar, chain, and oil delivery in a deliberate order. Do not rely on a seller’s description or a brief start demonstration; ask to see the saw cold and test it only in a safe setting.
- Confirm identity and condition. Check that the saw is labeled as a Husqvarna 240. Look for damage, missing parts, fuel leaks, and signs of poor repair. Ask what service has been done and whether receipts or other maintenance records are available.
- Ask for a cold start. A cold start gives you a better chance to assess starting behavior than a saw that has already been warmed up. Follow the model’s manual procedure, with the chain brake engaged. Start it on the ground or while securely supported; never drop-start it.
- Check idle and brake. At idle, the chain must stop moving. Check that the chain brake operates and that the throttle lockout and chain catcher are present and in good condition. Do not buy a saw with a defective brake or a chain that moves at idle without first accounting for professional repair.
- Check lubrication and cutting parts. Use the manual’s safe test procedure to confirm that oil reaches the chain. Inspect the bar, chain, and sprocket. If oil delivery is absent, stop and treat the saw as needing repair.
- Consider engine checks. If you or a qualified mechanic can assess compression and engine condition, do so before paying a premium. A start alone cannot establish that the engine is sound.
These checks can reveal visible faults, but they do not guarantee future reliability. If you cannot inspect the saw yourself, ask a qualified repair shop to assess it and estimate likely work. Compare that cost with the price of another used saw in better condition.
Match the 240 to your work and budget
The best-priced saw is the one that suits your actual workload without costly repairs or an unsafe setup. The Husqvarna 240 is intended for homeowner use, such as cleanup and light bucking; it is not a professional felling saw. If your work calls for frequent or demanding felling, do not choose it on price alone.
| Buyer situation | What to prioritize | Price decision |
|---|---|---|
| Occasional homeowner cleanup | Sound engine, working brake, correct bar and chain, and oil delivery | A running example in the $80–$180 band may make sense if inspection checks pass. |
| Buyer with repair skills | Clear fault, available parts, and a realistic repair estimate | Consider a $20–$75 project only if the total repair cost still fits your budget. |
| Buyer who wants a ready-to-use saw | Evidence of service, usable cutting parts, and safe operation | A $150–$250 asking price needs support from condition and maintenance, not appearance alone. |
| Buyer needing heavy or frequent felling | A saw suited to that workload and the user’s training | The 240 may not be the right match, even if the asking price is attractive. |
Buying scenarios, not specific sale records: If a $120 saw runs but has a damaged bar and uncertain oiling, the repair risk may outweigh the low asking price. If a $190 saw has service records, a sound bar and chain, and passes the safety checks, the higher price may be easier to justify. These examples show how to compare condition; they do not predict a particular saw’s value.
Before paying, ask yourself three questions: Does the saw fit the work? Can I confirm its bar and chain setup? Does the price leave room for any needed service? If any answer is no, keep comparing.
Safe setup, cutting, and maintenance
A correctly priced saw still needs a correct setup and safe use. Before starting, read the model’s manual and inspect the protective gear, work area, chain, brake, and lubrication system. Stop and repair faults before cutting. Do not use a saw with a defective chain brake or missing safety parts.
Wear a helmet, eye and face protection, hearing protection, chainsaw-protective legwear, gloves, and boots. Keep bystanders at least two tree lengths away from a felling operation. Do not fell trees with defects, overhead hazards, or uncontrolled lean unless a qualified professional handles the work. Follow applicable OSHA requirements and ANSI Z133 practices.
Use fresh, correctly mixed fuel. Husqvarna specifies a 50:1 mix, or 2%, when using Husqvarna-branded two-stroke oil. For other oils and fuel, follow the manual. Never run straight gasoline in this two-stroke engine. Mix fuel away from ignition sources, and use dedicated bar-and-chain oil. The manual does not give one universal oil viscosity or a field-measurable oil-flow rate.
Before each cut, check chain tension, bar rails, oil delivery, chain brake, catcher, and throttle lockout. Start with the brake engaged, following the manual. Confirm that the chain stops at idle and that oil reaches it using the manual’s safe test method. If the chain moves at idle or lubrication is absent, stop and repair the saw.
Cut with a two-handed grip and stable footing, and keep the bar nose clear of branches and hidden obstructions. Contact between the upper quadrant of the bar nose and wood can cause rotational kickback, which can throw the saw back toward you. Do not cut above shoulder height or intentionally use the bar nose in a cut. Work only within your training; plan for tree lean, defects, and escape routes before any felling.
After use, engage the brake, shut down, and let the saw cool before cleaning, adjusting, or refueling. Never refuel a hot saw. Clean the air filter, cooling fins, sprocket cover, bar groove, and oil inlet as needed; check lubrication and chain tension again after the saw cools. Use the file size and angles specified for the installed chain, keep cutters even, and check depth gauges with the correct tool. A .025-inch (0.65 mm) depth-gauge setting is common for this chain class, but follow the chain maker’s instructions.
Have carburetor or ignition tuning done to the exact model service data with a tachometer. Do not tune by ear or use mixture-screw adjustments to make up for stale fuel or a blocked filter. Incorrect tuning can cause lean running and engine seizure.
Storage and final buying decision
Good storage helps prepare a used saw for its next season, but it does not replace an inspection before cutting. Follow the manual’s fuel-system guidance for both short- and long-term storage. Keep fuel in an approved, labeled container away from heat and living areas, and check the saw’s brake, chain tension, and oiling before its first cut after storage.
For short-term storage, use fresh fuel and follow the manual. For extended storage, drain fuel as directed; run the carburetor dry only if the manual specifies. Clean the saw and store it dry with the chain cover fitted. Use fresh fuel when returning it to service, and do not assume a stored saw is ready to cut just because it ran last season.
My buying rule is straightforward: pay the higher used price only for condition you can verify. A $150–$250 example should have a clear reason for its premium, such as documented service and usable cutting parts. For any listing, confirm model identity, inspect safe operation, check part fit, and account for repairs before making an offer.
Frequently asked questions
These answers cover the main price and buying questions people raise about a used Husqvarna 240. Asking prices vary by location and condition, so treat the figures as broad U.S. market guidance rather than guaranteed values. Always verify the individual saw and its parts before purchase.
How much does a used Husqvarna 240 cost?
Approximate U.S. asking prices run about $20–$75 for a non-runner, $80–$180 for a running saw in usable condition, and $150–$250 for a clean, serviced example. Local demand and repair needs can move prices outside these bands.
Is a Husqvarna 240 still made?
The 240 is discontinued. Before buying one, check the availability of parts for the exact repair or bar-and-chain setup you need.
Is a Husqvarna 240 a professional felling saw?
No. It is a homeowner saw suited to cleanup and light bucking. It is not a professional felling saw, and tree felling requires training and a safe assessment of the tree and site.
What bar length fits a Husqvarna 240?
A commonly listed range is 13–16 inches, but the approved setup depends on the saw’s configuration. Check the manual and bar mount before buying a bar.
What chain fits a Husqvarna 240?
A common setup is 3/8-inch low-profile pitch and .050-inch (1.3 mm) gauge. Confirm the bar stamp, sprocket, and drive-link count; do not select a chain from the model name alone.
What fuel mix does the Husqvarna 240 use?
Husqvarna specifies a 50:1 mix, or 2%, when using Husqvarna-branded two-stroke oil. Follow the manual for other oils and fuel, and never use straight gasoline.
Is a saw that starts a good buy?
Not by that fact alone. Check cold-start behavior, chain-brake function, whether the chain stops at idle, oil delivery, engine condition, and the bar and chain before paying.
What should I pay for a non-running Husqvarna 240?
The approximate asking-price band is $20–$75. Buy only after considering diagnosis, parts, and the chance that repairs may cost more than the saw is worth to you.
How do I know if the chain is receiving oil?
Use the safe test procedure in the model’s manual. If oil delivery is absent, stop and repair the saw rather than cutting with a dry chain.
Should I pay extra for a serviced saw?
Only when its condition and service history support the price. Ask what work was done, inspect the saw, and confirm that its safety parts and cutting setup are sound.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Marcus Thorne. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
