Felling Trees for Firewood (Seasoning Timelines)
The drying clock starts when wood is split and stacked, not when the tree is felled. Cut logs to your stove’s length, split them promptly, and stack them off the ground with open sides and a top cover. Small splits in favorable weather may season in 6–12 months; dense wood or damp conditions can take 12–24 months or longer.
A tree can look dry on the outside and still be wet at its center. Burning that wood wastes heat evaporating water and can increase smoke and creosote buildup. The practical goal is to bring firewood to 20% moisture content or less, then confirm the result with a meter rather than trust a calendar.
In my work, the recurring mistake is counting seasoning from the felling date. A tree left in long rounds may lose some moisture, but that does not make it ready to burn. Splitting exposes more wood to air, so the useful timeline begins after processing and stacking. Species, split size, weather, and airflow all affect the result.
Equipment Setup & Safety Preparation
Felling and processing begin with a saw that is approved for its bar and chain, plus a clear plan for the tree. No single bar length, chain setting, or fuel mix suits every saw. Check the manuals, inspect the work area, and stop if the tree or its fall path is uncertain.
Match the saw and chain
A chainsaw’s engine size alone does not tell you which bar is safe to use. Follow the saw manual and the bar and chain makers’ specifications for bar length, chain pitch, gauge, and drive-link count. Use a sharp chain suited to the wood and saw; hardwood usually cuts more slowly and takes more effort than softwood.
Fuel mix, bar oil, chain tension, idle speed, and wide-open-throttle speed are also model-specific. A 50:1 gasoline-to-two-cycle-oil mix is common, but use it only if the manufacturer specifies it. Likewise, 3/8-inch low-profile chain, a .050-inch gauge, and a 0.025-inch depth-gauge setting are examples, not universal settings. Follow the chain maker’s filing chart and saw manual.
Before cutting, inspect the chain brake, throttle interlock, chain catcher, handles, bar, chain tension, and lubrication. Wear a helmet with face and eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw-protective legwear, gloves, and suitable boots. Keep a first-aid kit and reliable communication close at hand.
Assess the tree and work area
Check the tree’s lean, crown weight, dead limbs, decay, wind, and the slope or footing around it. Identify targets such as buildings, roads, and other trees, then plan escape routes before starting. Keep people out of a controlled exclusion zone, at least two tree lengths from the felling area where practicable.
Do not fell near power lines; contact the utility. If the tree is damaged, hung up, close to a target, or difficult to assess, use a qualified arborist or appropriately trained feller. A barber-chair occurs when a trunk under compression splits upward before the hinge controls the fall. It can kick the trunk violently and unpredictably. If a stem is split, heavily weighted, bound, or unstable, stop and get qualified help instead of improvising a cut.
Field Cutting & Firewood Processing
The aim is to turn a sound tree into stove-length, split wood without taking unsafe shortcuts. Plan the fall, buck logs only after assessing how they may move, then split and stack promptly. For seasoning, the timing and arrangement after splitting matter more than the month the tree came down.
Fell and buck with a plan
Start the saw on clear ground and follow its manual for starting, chain-brake use, and warm-up. Check that the chain is lubricated and the brake works as directed. Do not rev the saw with the brake engaged unless the manual permits it.
Felling requires training and cuts matched to the tree and conditions. A directional notch and controlled back cut must preserve an adequate hinge for the situation. Keep stable footing, keep the bar tip clear of objects, and never cut above shoulder height. If you cannot confidently direct the fall or protect people and property, do not proceed.
Before bucking, assess where the log is supported and where it is under compression or tension. A cut can close on the bar, or a log can roll or spring as pressure changes. Use wedges where appropriate and keep clear of likely movement. If the log is unstable or its forces are unclear, stop and ask a trained person for help.
Cut to the length your stove or fireplace accepts, allowing for practical handling. Split soon after bucking, especially if the wood is still green. Smaller pieces have more exposed surface area relative to their volume, which generally helps them dry faster.
Build a stack that can dry
A seasoning stack needs ground clearance, airflow, and protection from rain. Use a durable base to keep wood off soil, stack loosely, and leave the sides exposed. A single row in a sunny, breezy spot can dry more evenly than a tight stack in a sheltered corner. Cover the top to shed rain, but do not wrap the pile so tightly that air cannot move.
| Wood and setup | Planning range after splitting and stacking | What can slow drying |
|---|---|---|
| Small splits, favorable sun and airflow | About 6–12 months | Rain exposure, damp ground, crowded stacking |
| Dense hardwood or larger splits | About 12–24 months or longer | Thick pieces, cool weather, high humidity |
| Any species in a cool, damp, poorly ventilated site | Often longer than a favorable-site estimate | Shade, tight rows, blocked airflow |
These are planning ranges, not guarantees. “Hardwood” and “softwood” describe broad groups, not exact drying schedules; species and local conditions matter. Keep records by species, split date, and stack location. That gives you a useful estimate for next year without treating one season’s result as a rule for every pile.
Check moisture instead of guessing
Moisture content, or MC, is the amount of water in wood relative to its dry wood weight. A meter reading from the outside of an intact log can mislead because the surface may be drier than the center. Split a representative piece and test the newly exposed interior face, following the meter’s instructions.
Aim for 20% MC or less before burning. Test several pieces from different parts of the stack, not just the easiest log to reach. If readings vary, give the wetter wood more time and check again. Some meters need a species setting or temperature adjustment; use those options when the manufacturer provides them.
Field examples for setting expectations
These are planning scenarios, not promises about a particular yard. In a sunny, breezy location, small splits may be ready within the 6–12-month range. In a shaded or humid location, similar wood may need longer. Dense hardwood in thick splits commonly requires more patience, and a dry surface does not prove the center is ready.
The useful lesson is to track the process: note when each batch was split, how it was stacked, and what the meter reads over time. A pile that misses the target is a reason to adjust split size or airflow, not to rely on an assumed species timetable.
Maintenance & Sharpening / Tuning
A properly maintained saw cuts with less effort and is easier to control. Use the chain maker’s filing guidance and the saw maker’s service instructions. If a saw needs unusual force, cuts crooked, or produces fine dust instead of normal chips, stop to inspect it rather than pushing through.
Sharpen and inspect by specification
Use the specified file size, angles, and depth-gauge profile for the chain. Keep cutter lengths even and set chain tension according to the saw manual. A chain that cuts to one side, makes fine dust, or needs force is a service cue. Do not force a dull chain through wood.
Clean the air filter, cooling fins, sprocket area, bar groove, and oil passages as directed. Check bar rails and rotate or replace the bar and sprocket on the schedule in the manual. Replace damaged chain parts and worn components. Use fresh, correctly mixed fuel and the specified bar oil.
Carburetor adjustment, idle speed, and maximum engine speed need the model’s service procedure. Some adjustments require a tachometer. Do not tune by guesswork or use a generic RPM target.
Storage & Seasonal Care
Careful storage protects both the saw and the drying wood between cutting sessions. Follow the saw manual for cleaning, fuel, and chain handling. Keep the firewood stack ventilated and protected from ground moisture, and check its moisture content again before burning.
Store the saw and wood correctly
After work, shut the saw down, let it cool, and clean the saw and cutting attachment. Use a bar cover. Slackening the chain for storage may be required on some models; follow the manual. For extended storage, use the maker’s fuel-draining or fuel-stabilizing procedure. Stale fuel can cause hard starting, lean running, and engine damage. Store fuel in approved containers away from ignition sources.
Keep firewood off soil and away from buildings as local fire rules require. Cover the top, not the whole stack, so air can move through the sides. Recheck MC on a freshly split face before use, especially if wood has been stored through wet weather.
FAQ: felling and seasoning firewood
These answers address common timing questions. They are starting points, not substitutes for local weather, safe work practices, or a moisture reading. For any batch, record the split date and verify that the wood reaches 20% MC or less before burning.
How long does firewood take to season after felling?
The clock is most useful from the time wood is split and stacked. Small splits in favorable conditions may take 6–12 months; dense wood or poor drying conditions may take 12–24 months or longer.
Does wood season while it is still in long rounds?
It can lose some moisture, but the center dries slowly. Splitting exposes more surface area and makes drying more effective.
When should I fell trees for firewood?
Choose a safe, lawful time and suitable conditions for the work. For drying, prompt bucking, splitting, and proper stacking matter more than a fixed felling month.
Which dries faster, hardwood or softwood?
There is no single schedule for either group. Species, piece size, weather, and airflow all affect drying, so use the meter rather than the label alone.
Should I split wood before stacking it?
Yes. Split it to a useful size soon after bucking, then stack it off the ground with open sides and a top cover.
How do I measure firewood moisture accurately?
Split a representative piece and measure the newly exposed interior face. Follow the meter instructions, including any species or temperature settings.
Can wood that has dried for a year still be too wet?
Yes. A year is not a guarantee. Check several split pieces with a moisture meter.
Is a reading of 20% acceptable for burning?
Use 20% MC or less as the target. Measure on a freshly split interior face, not only on the outside of a log.
Can I fully tarp a firewood stack?
Avoid wrapping it so tightly that air cannot circulate. Cover the top to shed rain and leave the sides open.
What should I do if a tree or log is unstable?
Stop cutting and get help from an appropriately trained professional. Do not improvise around a hung-up tree, unstable stem, or log with unclear tension.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Samuel Vance. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
