Cutting Back Monkey Grass (Seasonal Guide)
Cut established monkey grass (Liriope) in late winter or very early spring, before new shoots emerge. Leave 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) of foliage above the crown. Use hand shears for small clumps; use a mower or hedge trimmer only on a level, clear bed after testing the cut height. If fresh shoots are showing, trim dead foliage by hand instead.
Cutting back monkey grass at the right time does more than tidy a bed. It removes old foliage that can hide new growth and helps the planting look even as the season changes. The main risk is cutting too low or using a powered tool where it can strike irrigation, edging, stones, or the plant crowns.
In my grounds work, I treat the job as a careful seasonal trim, not a close mow. A little setup can prevent damaged plants and avoid a much harder cleanup later.
When should you cut back monkey grass?
Late winter to very early spring is the usual window for trimming established Liriope. The right date depends on your local weather and the plant’s growth: aim to finish before new shoots begin to emerge, rather than following a fixed calendar date.
Evergreen and deciduous types can both be cut back. Evergreen plants keep their leaves through winter; deciduous types lose them. In either case, the purpose of the late-winter trim is to remove old foliage before fresh growth fills in.
Check the bed before you start. If you can see new green shoots, do not mow or shear the whole planting. Use hand shears to remove only dead or damaged leaves, taking care not to cut the shoots.
| Plant condition | Recommended approach |
|---|---|
| Old foliage; no new shoots visible | Cut to 2–3 in (5–8 cm) |
| New shoots already emerging | Hand-trim dead or damaged foliage only |
| Plants appear damaged or unhealthy | Inspect first; avoid a hard cut until you know what is wrong |
| Unsure of the plant’s identity | Confirm it is Liriope before cutting |
The key is to use plant condition, not a date alone, to guide the job.
Confirm the plant before trimming
“Monkey grass” is a common name used for more than one plant. It often refers to Liriope, but similar-looking ornamental grasses and groundcovers may grow and recover differently, so confirm what is in the bed before choosing a cutting method.
Look at several plants across the planting. Check their leaves, growth habit, and any plant labels or records you have. If the plants do not appear to be Liriope, identify them before using the height and timing guidance in this guide.
A wrong identification matters most when you plan to use a mower or hedge trimmer. A tool that quickly cuts a broad, level patch can also cut plants too short or damage growth that should be left in place. When in doubt, work by hand on a small area while you confirm the plant.
Equipment Setup and Safety Prep
Choose a cutting tool that fits the size and layout of the bed. Hand shears offer control around small clumps and obstacles; powered tools can speed up work on a broad, level, clear planting but need a careful site check first.
Before trimming, put on eye protection, gloves, sturdy footwear, and hearing protection when using powered equipment. Check for people and pets, then look across the bed for stones, wire, edging, irrigation heads, and hidden debris. Clear hazards before you start.
Inspect the tool according to its manual. Check guards, handles, fasteners, and blade condition. For a powered tool, check the cord or battery as directed. Use a sharp, suitable cutting tool, and keep your hands away from blades.
Set a conservative height and test a small patch. The target is 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) of foliage, not a cut down to soil level. If the tool cannot reach that height evenly without striking the ground or nearby objects, switch to hand shears.
Field Cutting and Landscaping Operation
A careful cut leaves a short layer of foliage above each plant’s crown. The crown is the plant’s base, where the leaves meet the roots and new shoots emerge. Cutting into it can damage the plant and delay regrowth.
Work through these steps:
- Start with the test patch. Check that the cut leaves 2–3 inches of foliage and does not hit soil, crowns, or obstacles. Adjust the tool or change methods if needed.
- Cut steadily. On a small planting, use hand shears to trim clumps evenly. On a broad, flat, clear bed, a mower on a high deck setting may work; confirm the actual cut height rather than relying on the setting alone.
- Watch the edges. Move carefully near edging, irrigation, and other plants. Keep hands clear of blades, and do not push a powered tool into an area you cannot see.
- Collect the clippings. Rake or gather cut leaves so they do not form a thick mat over the crowns.
Never scalp the planting to soil level. If new shoots are visible, stop the broad cut and trim only dead or damaged foliage by hand. Leaving some old leaves is safer than slicing into fresh growth.
Field Examples: Choosing a Method for the Bed
These examples show how bed size and condition shape the approach. They are practical scenarios, not a fixed prescription for every planting: check plant identity, growth stage, and hidden hazards before choosing a tool.
For a short border made up of separate clumps, I would use hand shears. They make it easier to work around nearby plants and leave a consistent 2–3 inches. The slower pace is usually worthwhile when a powered tool could catch edging or cut unevenly.
For a broad, level bed with no visible obstacles, a mower may save time. I would still inspect the whole area, set the deck high, and check a small patch first. If the cut is too low, uneven, or close to objects, I would switch to shears or another suitable hand tool.
For a bed where green shoots have started to appear, I would not make a full-bed cut. I would hand-trim dead leaves around the new growth instead. This takes more time but avoids cutting into shoots that are already growing.
Maintenance and Tool Care
Cleaning tools helps prevent soil and plant debris from building up on blades. If disease is suspected, disinfect the blades between plants. A practical option is 70% isopropyl alcohol; keep it away from ignition sources and let the tool dry before use.
After the work, stop the tool and follow its shutdown procedure. Disconnect the battery or plug, or shut down an engine as the manual directs. Wait for moving parts to stop before brushing off debris or checking the blade.
Inspect the tool for damage, loose parts, or dull edges. Do not continue using a damaged tool. Brush off dirt and foliage, and clean blades before storing them. A clean, sharp cutting edge makes the next trim more controlled.
Storage and Seasonal Care
Once the cuttings are cleared, take a final look at the bed. Check that crowns are not buried under clippings and that the trimmed foliage is even. Then store tools safely, with power disconnected and blades protected as the manufacturer recommends.
Do not pile cut leaves over the plants. A heavy layer can cover crowns and conceal emerging shoots. If you are unsure how to handle the clippings, remove them from the bed and follow your local yard-waste rules.
As the season moves on, watch for fresh growth. Avoid another hard cut once shoots are developing. The seasonal trim is meant to clear old foliage before growth begins, not to keep cutting the planting through spring.
Frequently Asked Questions
These answers cover the most common decisions: timing, cut height, tool choice, and what to do when growth has already started. If the plant is not clearly Liriope, identify it first, because similar-looking plants may need a different pruning approach.
How short should I cut monkey grass?
Leave 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) of foliage. Do not cut down to the soil or into the crown.
What month should I cut it back?
There is no single month for every climate. Trim in late winter or very early spring, before new shoots emerge.
Can I mow monkey grass?
A mower may suit a broad, flat, unobstructed bed. Use a high deck setting and test a small section to confirm the cut height.
Can I use a hedge trimmer?
Yes, where the bed is clear and the tool can cut evenly without hitting soil, crowns, edging, or irrigation. Use hand shears around obstacles.
What if new green shoots are already growing?
Do not mow or shear the whole bed. Hand-trim only dead or damaged foliage, avoiding the new shoots.
Should I cut evergreen Liriope back?
Yes, established evergreen and deciduous types can both be cut back in late winter or very early spring, before new growth appears.
Can cutting too low hurt the plants?
Yes. Cutting into crowns or emerging shoots can damage plants, delay regrowth, or leave bare areas.
Do I need to clean my shears afterward?
Remove soil and plant debris. If disease is suspected, disinfect blades between plants; 70% isopropyl alcohol is one practical option. Keep it away from ignition sources and allow tools to dry.
Should I leave the clippings in the bed?
Rake or collect them so they do not cover the crowns. Follow local rules for disposing of yard waste.
How can I tell whether I have Liriope?
Check plant records or labels and compare the plant’s growth and leaves with a reliable identification source. If uncertain, confirm the species before making a broad cut.
For most established Liriope, the dependable plan is simple: identify the plant, wait until late winter or early spring, cut to 2–3 inches before shoots emerge, and use hand tools wherever the bed is uneven or crowded.
(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Victor Dempsey. Visit our Meet the Team page.)
