Ash vs. Hickory Wood (Janka Hardness Chart)

White ash is rated at about 1,320 lbf on the Janka hardness scale; shagbark hickory is about 1,880 lbf. That makes shagbark roughly 42% harder by these figures, but hickory values vary by species. Janka measures resistance to indentation, not saw capacity, cutting speed, firewood heat, or seasoning time.

When you compare ash and hickory for a project or a winter woodpile, it helps to separate what the hardness number tells you from what it does not. A high rating can matter for dent resistance, but it cannot tell you how a log will split, how fast a chain will cut, or whether firewood is ready to burn.

I use the Janka chart as one useful point of comparison, not as a complete scorecard. For heating, moisture, wood volume, and species matter. For cutting, the saw maker’s limits and safe technique matter more than a hardness rating.

Ash vs. Hickory Janka hardness chart

The Janka test measures the force needed to press a steel ball into a wood sample to a set depth. Values are commonly reported for wood near 12% moisture content, so treat them as comparable reference points, not exact predictions for every board or log.

By these figures, shagbark hickory is about 42% harder than white ash. The calculation is the difference, 560 lbf, divided by ash’s 1,320 lbf rating. Published values can vary with species, the sample, and test conditions.

What does a Janka rating mean?

Janka hardness is a measure of resistance to indentation. It helps compare how readily a wood surface may dent under a standardized test; it does not directly measure bending strength, toughness, wear in every setting, or ease of cutting. The number also changes with moisture and test conditions.

The “lbf” unit means pounds-force. A rating of 1,880 lbf does not mean a hickory log needs that much force from a chainsaw. Nor does it mean hickory is exactly 42% slower to cut. The test is not a saw-performance test.

Why “hickory” needs a species name

Hickory is a group of trees, not one exact wood specification. The 1,880 lbf figure above is for shagbark hickory. Other hickory species can have different properties, so check the species named in the source when comparing a chart, lumber listing, or firewood label.

White ash is also one specific species in this comparison. If a seller or woodlot label says only “ash” or “hickory,” do not assume it matches these precise values. Use the name as a useful clue, then confirm what species you have when that distinction matters.

What the hardness difference means for wood selection

A harder surface can resist dents, but the best choice depends on the job. White ash and hickory are both used as hardwoods, yet the Janka values alone do not establish which is better for a particular floor, handle, or firewood load.

For flooring or furniture, consider more than indentation resistance: grain, board quality, finish, movement with moisture, and the maker’s specifications all affect performance. Hickory’s higher rating can be a reason to consider it where surface dent resistance matters. It is not a guarantee against damage.

For firewood, Janka hardness is not a heating-value chart. A denser species can often provide more heat per volume than a less dense one at similar moisture, but the figure alone cannot give a reliable BTU value for your particular load. Species, moisture, and how the wood is measured all matter.

Use the right comparison for firewood

If you are deciding what to haul and stack, compare dry wood by the same measure, such as a full cord, rather than comparing one loose armload with another. Keep species labels where you can see them, and avoid treating a Janka rating as a direct measure of heat output.

Moisture is a key part of the decision. For firewood, aim for less than 20% moisture before burning. Check a freshly split face with a moisture meter; an outside reading on a round or weathered piece may not show the moisture deeper inside. Splitting size and stacking in a spot with good airflow help wood dry, but a calendar estimate cannot confirm that it is ready.

Equipment Setup and Safety Preparation for Ash and Hickory

Safe cutting starts with the saw’s manual, a sound work area, and working protective gear. Ash and hickory hardness can help you plan for effort, but it does not set a safe bar length, chain type, engine setting, or cutting limit for your saw.

Before you start, wear a helmet, eye and face protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and protective boots. Check footing, overhead hazards, your escape route, and the log itself. A log under tension or compression can move as you cut, whatever its species.

Then confirm that the bar and chain match the saw. Pitch, gauge, drive-link count, bar length, fuel mix, idle speed, and full-throttle speed are model-specific. Use the saw and chain manufacturers’ instructions. For example, 3/8-inch low-profile chain with a .050-inch gauge is one possible setup, not a universal fit.

Inspect chain tension, the chain brake, lubrication, and sharpness. Mix fuel only at the ratio listed in the operator’s manual, and start and warm the saw as directed. A Janka number is not a substitute for any of these checks.

Field Cutting: Species Differences and Controlled Saw Operation

Field cutting is the point where the comparison becomes practical, but hardness remains only one planning factor. Hickory may call for more effort than ash, yet log diameter, knots, defects, chain condition, and stored stress can change the cut more than the species label suggests.

Use a sharp chain and controlled feed. Let the cutting equipment work; do not force the saw through a resistant spot. Keep the bar nose clear of nearby wood and objects, and watch for a pinched bar. If the log shifts or the cut closes, stop and reassess instead of increasing pressure.

A dull chain can make a cut slow and hot, encouraging the operator to push harder. If the upper quadrant near the bar tip contacts wood, rotational kickback can occur and cause severe injury. Keep that part of the bar away from the cut and surrounding objects. Stop to sharpen when needed.

Chain Maintenance, Sharpening, and Manufacturer-Specified Tuning

Chain care affects cutting performance and safety more directly than a Janka rating. Keep the chain sharp, correctly tensioned, and lubricated, and use the file size, sharpening angles, and depth-gauge settings specified by the chain maker.

Ash and hickory do not justify changing chain geometry or engine settings on guesswork. Do not alter the fuel ratio, idle or full-throttle settings, or raker setting unless the applicable manufacturer’s instructions call for it. If the chain needs frequent adjustment or the saw behaves abnormally, stop and consult the manual or a qualified service provider.

After cutting, engage the chain brake and shut down the saw according to its manual. Let hot parts cool before cleaning chips or inspecting the chain, bar, and air filter. Sharpen and adjust only to the chain manufacturer’s specifications.

Post-Use Storage and Seasonal Fuel Care

Store cutting equipment as its manual directs, with the saw clean and the chain protected. For firewood, keep ash and hickory sorted by species and stack split pieces where air can move around them; these steps make it easier to check your supply and avoid guessing at readiness.

There is no dependable drying date that applies to every ash or hickory stack. Piece size, starting moisture, airflow, rain exposure, and stacking conditions all affect drying. Check the wood rather than relying on a rule of thumb: split a piece and measure the fresh interior face. Aim for under 20% moisture before burning.

Practical comparison scenarios

These examples show how to use the chart without treating it as a complete verdict:

• You want a dent-resistant wood surface: Shagbark hickory’s listed Janka value is higher than white ash’s. Compare the exact species and consider the full product and intended use.
• You are cutting rounds for the stove: Expect hickory to demand more effort in some cuts, but use saw specifications and log condition to plan. Do not infer cutting time or saw capacity from the hardness figures.
• You are choosing wood for winter heat: Use species and volume as part of your comparison, then verify moisture. Janka hardness alone cannot tell you the heat available from a load.
• You are unsure whether a stack is ready: Split a piece, measure the newly exposed face, and look for a reading below 20%. Do not rely on the outside surface or a fixed drying period.

Conclusion: Use the chart, then check the wood

White ash at about 1,320 lbf and shagbark hickory at about 1,880 lbf provide a clear comparison of indentation hardness. Hickory is about 42% harder by these ratings, but the result applies to those named species and test conditions. For a project, match the wood to the use. For firewood, track species and moisture. For cutting, follow the saw and chain makers’ instructions.

Frequently asked questions

Is hickory harder than ash?
Shagbark hickory, at about 1,880 lbf, is harder than white ash, at about 1,320 lbf, on commonly reported Janka ratings.

What is white ash’s Janka rating?
White ash is commonly listed at about 1,320 lbf. Values may vary with the sample and test conditions.

What is hickory’s Janka rating?
There is no single value for all hickory. Shagbark hickory is commonly listed at about 1,880 lbf.

How much harder is shagbark hickory than white ash?
By the listed values, shagbark hickory is about 42% harder. This compares indentation ratings, not cutting time or saw effort.

Does Janka hardness tell me how fast a chainsaw will cut?
No. Janka measures resistance to indentation. Chain sharpness, log size, defects, saw setup, and wood condition affect cutting.

Does a higher Janka rating mean more firewood heat?
Not by itself. Janka is not a heat-value measure. Species, amount of wood, and moisture matter when comparing firewood.

At what moisture level should firewood be burned?
A useful target is below 20% moisture. Measure a freshly split face instead of relying on the outside of the piece.

Does hickory always take longer to dry than ash?
A fixed drying comparison is not reliable for every stack. Size, starting moisture, airflow, and weather affect drying, so check with a meter.

Can I choose a chainsaw chain based on the Janka chart?
No. Match the bar and chain to the saw using the manufacturer’s specifications, not the wood’s hardness rating.

(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Samuel Vance. Visit our Meet the Team page.)