Arborist Tree Cutting Tools (Usage Guide)

Choose the cutting tool to fit the branch, tree, and work position: hand pruners or saws for small limbs, pole tools for suitable ground-level cuts, and a correctly matched chainsaw for larger wood. Before cutting, check the manual, wear proper protection, inspect the site, and confirm the tool is safe to run.

A low tree-service quote can make a chainsaw seem like an easy way to save money. But the right tool is only one part of a safe job. A dull chain, unstable ladder, hidden defect, or nearby power line can turn a simple cut into a serious hazard.

I’ve seen good results come from matching the tool to the cut instead of reaching for the largest saw. This guide covers common arborist cutting tools, how to choose and check them, and when to stop and call a qualified arborist.

Equipment Setup and Safety Preparation

Equipment setup means choosing tools and protective gear for the job, then checking that each item works as intended. Start with the smallest tool that can make the cut cleanly from a stable position. Read the tool manual before use; bar, chain, fuel, and speed details vary by model.

Choose a tool for the cut

A bypass hand pruner uses two blades that pass each other to cut small, live stems. A lopper has longer handles for extra reach and leverage. A folding or fixed pruning saw cuts thicker branches without a motor. Use these tools from stable ground, and stay within the maker’s stated cutting capacity.

A pole saw lets you trim some branches while standing on the ground. It does not make overhead cutting risk-free: a falling limb can strike you, and a long pole can be hard to control. Never use a pole saw near energized wires. Do not cut above shoulder height with a chainsaw.

Use a chainsaw only when the wood and access call for it and you have the training to control it. There is no universal bar-length-to-engine-size ratio. Choose a saw, bar, and chain listed as compatible by the saw maker.

Put safety checks before starting

Wear a helmet, eye and face protection, hearing protection, chainsaw-rated leg protection when using a chainsaw, gloves, and suitable boots. Check the work area for people, pets, traffic, buildings, overhead hazards, and escape routes. Set a clear work-zone boundary, and keep bystanders outside it.

Before a chainsaw starts, inspect the chain brake, throttle lockout, chain catcher, chain tension, guide bar, and oil and fuel systems. Follow applicable ANSI Z133 safety guidance. OSHA 1910.266 applies to covered logging operations; it does not cover every homeowner task. Work near energized lines belongs to qualified line-clearance workers who follow the required voltage-specific approach distance.

Field Cutting and Landscaping Operations

Field cutting is the controlled removal of branches or wood with a tool suited to the material and the operator’s position. A good cut keeps the tool in control and avoids trapping the blade. For tree felling, the operator must also assess the tree, its likely fall, and the hazards around it.

Start and test a chainsaw correctly

Start the saw on stable ground and follow the model’s cold- or warm-start steps. Engage the chain brake during starting. Once running, check that the chain stops at idle, controls work, and bar oil reaches the chain using the manual-approved test. Oil flow and any adjustment are model-specific.

Use the manufacturer’s specified fuel mix and two-stroke oil. A 50:1 mix is common, but it is not universal. Use fresh fuel and never infer the mix from another saw. Use bar-and-chain oil at the viscosity specified for the conditions. Never run a two-stroke saw on straight gasoline.

A chain and bar must match the drive sprocket and saw. For example, 3/8-inch low-profile pitch and .050-inch gauge is a valid setup only when the sprocket, bar, and chain all call for it. Confirm the required drive-link count on the bar or in the manual. Do not substitute parts based on appearance alone.

Make pruning cuts with control

For hand tools, support the branch so it does not tear bark as it drops. Use a pruning saw for wood beyond the pruner’s capacity; forcing a small tool can damage it or make the cut harder to control. With a pole saw, keep both feet on stable ground and plan where the cut section will fall before you begin.

With a chainsaw, keep a firm grip and a balanced stance. Do not point the guide-bar nose toward the work: contact there can cause rapid rotational kickback. Never defeat the chain brake or push a dull chain through wood. Stop if the saw binds, the cut closes on the bar, or your footing or view becomes unsafe.

Treat felling as a separate, higher-risk job

Before felling, assess lean, defects, crown weight, nearby targets, and clear escape paths. A notch and back cut are not a recipe that fits every tree. Hinge wood, the uncut wood that helps guide a tree’s fall, must be sized and placed for the tree and conditions. Get hands-on training before attempting a felling cut.

A dangerous failure called barber-chairing occurs when a loaded or defective stem splits upward before the hinge can control the fall. Stop and reassess if the stem is leaning, damaged, or under strain. If the tree is beyond your training, equipment, or safe control, keep people away and hire a qualified arborist with suitable rigging or machinery.

Practical field scenarios

These examples show how tool choice changes with access and material; they are not reports of specific jobs.

• Small branch over open lawn: A hand pruner, lopper, or pruning saw may be suitable if the branch is within the tool’s capacity and can be handled from stable ground.
• Branch high in a tree: A pole saw may suit some ground-based work. If the branch is heavy, lodged, near a target, or over a wire, stop and use a qualified tree worker.
• Small tree near a shed: The tree’s size alone does not make felling safe. Lean, defects, crown load, and the fall zone matter. Hire help if the tree cannot fall freely into a clear area.
• Stump at mower height: Cutting a stump low or grinding it is a different task from branch pruning. Check for buried utilities before digging or grinding, and use a utility-location service as required in your area.

Maintenance, Sharpening, and Tuning

Maintenance keeps cutting tools in sound condition and helps prevent poor cuts or loss of control. Clean tools after use, check for damage, and follow the maker’s service steps. For chainsaws, use the chain maker’s sharpening chart and the saw maker’s specifications rather than a setting copied from another model.

Sharpen the chain to its specifications

A sharp chain cuts with steady feed. If it makes fine dust, needs heavy pressure, or cuts unevenly, stop and inspect it. The chain maker’s file size, filing angle, and depth-gauge setting depend on the chain. A .025-inch (0.635 mm) depth-gauge setting is common for some chains, but it is not a universal target. Use the maker’s chart and gauge tool.

Check chain tension with the saw shut off and cooled, following the manual. A chain that is too loose can derail; one that is too tight can strain parts. Inspect cutters and links for damage. Replace or have a chain serviced if it is cracked, badly worn, or cannot be sharpened to specification.

Check lubrication and engine settings

Use the manual’s procedure to confirm bar-oil delivery. Do not assume all saws have the same flow rate or adjustment. Keep oil passages and the bar groove clean as directed. Do not tune engine speed by ear or free-rev the saw to estimate it. Idle and maximum operating RPM vary by model; a tachometer check should follow the manufacturer’s specifications.

After cutting, engage the brake and stop the engine, or isolate the battery on a battery-powered tool. Let hot parts cool before servicing. Clean the tool, inspect the chain and bar, and sharpen as needed. Refuel or recharge only as the manual directs.

Storage and Seasonal Care

Storage care means leaving tools clean, dry, and ready for their next use. Follow the manual for fuel handling, battery care, and long-term storage. Before storing, stop the tool, let hot parts cool, and keep cutting edges covered and out of children’s reach.

Drain or stabilize fuel only as the saw maker directs; fuel systems differ. Keep chainsaw oil and fuel in suitable labeled containers, away from heat and ignition sources. Store batteries under the maker’s temperature and charge guidance. Before the next job, repeat the safety inspection rather than assuming the tool is ready.

For hand tools, remove sap and dirt, dry the blades, and protect metal surfaces as the maker recommends. Check handles, locks, and pivots before use. A loose or damaged handle is a reason to repair or replace the tool, not to work around the fault.

Frequently Asked Questions

These quick answers cover tool choice, fit, and safe use. The tool manual and chain maker’s instructions take priority when specifications differ. If a job involves a risky tree, poor access, or a hazard you cannot control, stop and get qualified help.

What tool should I use for small branches?
Use hand pruners or loppers for stems within their stated capacity. Choose a pruning saw for thicker branches.

Can I use a pole saw to cut any overhead branch?
No. Use one only for suitable ground-based work where you can control the tool and falling material. Stay clear of wires and do not work beneath an unstable limb.

Is a 50:1 fuel mix right for every chainsaw?
No. It is common, not universal. Use the fuel mix and two-stroke oil specified for your model.

Can I fit any chain that matches my bar length?
No. Pitch, gauge, drive-link count, sprocket, bar, and chain must match the saw maker’s specifications.

Is .025 inch the right depth-gauge setting?
Not for every chain. It is a common reference for some chains. Check the chain maker’s chart and use its gauge tool.

How do I know the bar is getting oil?
Use the test in the saw manual. Oil delivery and adjustment vary by model, so do not rely on a generic test or flow-rate assumption.

Can I fell a small tree with a chainsaw?
Tree size alone does not determine whether felling is safe. Assess lean, defects, crown load, targets, and escape routes. Get training, or hire an arborist if you cannot control the fall.

What should I do if the chain binds or the saw cuts poorly?
Stop, engage the brake, and shut down before inspection. Check for a dull or damaged chain, incorrect tension, or a trapped bar. Do not force the saw through the cut.

When should I call a qualified arborist?
Call when a tree is near power lines, buildings, roads, or other targets; has defects or heavy lean; cannot fall into a clear area; or exceeds your training or equipment.

(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Julian Barrett. Visit our Meet the Team page.)