What Is Cordwood? (Wood Merchants Decode Firewood Jargon)

I still remember the first time I heard the term “cordwood.” I was a young buck, eager to learn the ropes of firewood preparation from my grandfather. He was a seasoned woodcutter, a man who knew the forest like the back of his hand. He used the term so casually, as if everyone knew exactly what it meant. I, of course, didn’t have a clue. I nodded along, pretending to understand, but inside I was a whirling dervish of confusion.

That day, after a bit of prying, I finally got the lowdown on what cordwood truly is. And now, years later, having spent countless hours in the woods myself, splitting, stacking, and burning wood, I’m here to decode this firewood jargon for you. Whether you’re a seasoned wood-burning aficionado or just starting out, understanding cordwood is crucial for buying, selling, and managing your firewood supply. So, grab a cup of coffee, settle in, and let’s unravel the mysteries of cordwood together.

What Is Cordwood? (Wood Merchants Decode Firewood Jargon)

Cordwood, at its most basic, is a standardized unit of measurement for firewood. It’s the quantity of wood that, when “racked and well stowed” (stacked tightly), occupies a volume of 128 cubic feet. This is the key definition, but it’s more nuanced than it sounds. The term “cord” has a long history, stemming from the practice of measuring wood with a rope or cord. The important thing to remember is that a cord is a volume measurement, not a weight measurement.

Breaking Down the Cord: Dimensions and Volume

To visualize a cord, imagine a stack of wood that is 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long. That’s 4 x 4 x 8 = 128 cubic feet.

• Height: Typically 4 feet
• Width: Typically 4 feet (this is often the length of the individual pieces of wood)
• Length: Typically 8 feet

It’s important to note that the length of the individual pieces of wood is assumed to be 4 feet. This means that if you have shorter pieces of wood, you’ll need to stack more of them to fill the 128 cubic feet.

What a Cord Isn’t: Common Misconceptions

One of the biggest misconceptions is that all cords are created equal. They aren’t. The type of wood, how tightly it’s stacked, and even the moisture content can affect how much actual usable wood you’re getting. A loosely stacked cord of crooked branches will contain far less actual wood than a tightly packed cord of straight, split logs.

Another common mistake is confusing a cord with a “face cord” or “rick.” These terms are often used loosely and can be misleading. We’ll delve into those in more detail later.

Why Use Cordwood as a Measurement?

The primary reason for using cordwood as a measurement is to provide a standardized way to buy and sell firewood. Without a standard, it would be incredibly difficult to compare prices and ensure you’re getting a fair deal. Think of it like buying gasoline – you wouldn’t want to buy it without knowing the price per gallon, right? Cordwood serves the same purpose for firewood.

Data Points and Statistics: Cordwood in the Real World

• Average price of a cord of firewood in the US (2023): Ranged from $200 to $400, depending on location, wood type, and seller.
• BTU content per cord: Varies significantly by wood species. A cord of oak, for example, contains roughly 24 million BTUs, while a cord of pine contains around 17 million BTUs.
• Weight of a cord of firewood: Also varies by species and moisture content. A cord of green oak can weigh over 5,000 pounds, while a cord of seasoned pine might weigh closer to 2,500 pounds.
• Percentage of US households using wood as a primary or secondary heating source: Approximately 10-12%, with significant regional variations.

These data points highlight the importance of understanding not just the volume of a cord, but also the quality and type of wood you’re getting.

Understanding Firewood Jargon: Beyond the Cord

Now that we’ve established what a cord is, let’s tackle some of the other terms you’re likely to encounter when dealing with firewood merchants. This is where things can get a little murky, so pay close attention.

Face Cord (or Rick): The Source of Much Confusion

A face cord, also known as a rick, is where many firewood buyers get tripped up. A face cord is not a standardized measurement. It typically refers to a stack of wood that is 4 feet high and 8 feet long, but the width of the stack (the length of the wood pieces) can vary. This means that a face cord is always smaller than a full cord.

The problem is that sellers often use the term “face cord” without specifying the length of the wood pieces. This can lead to misunderstandings and potentially getting ripped off.

Example:

• A face cord with 16-inch pieces is 1/3 of a full cord (4 ft x 8 ft x 1.33 ft = 42.66 cubic feet)
• A face cord with 12-inch pieces is 1/4 of a full cord (4 ft x 8 ft x 1 ft = 32 cubic feet)

The takeaway: Always ask for the length of the wood pieces when someone offers you a “face cord” or “rick.” Do the math to figure out how much wood you’re actually getting compared to a full cord.

Green vs. Seasoned Wood: A Critical Distinction

This is another crucial piece of firewood jargon.

• Green wood: Wood that has been recently cut and still contains a high amount of moisture. Green wood is difficult to burn, produces more smoke, and has a lower heat output.
• Seasoned wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry for a period of time, typically 6-12 months. Seasoned wood burns more efficiently, produces less smoke, and has a higher heat output.

Why is seasoning important?

Green wood can contain up to 50% moisture by weight. This moisture must be evaporated before the wood can burn properly. This process consumes energy, reducing the overall heat output. Burning green wood also produces creosote, a flammable substance that can build up in your chimney and increase the risk of a chimney fire.

How to tell if wood is seasoned:

• Weight: Seasoned wood is significantly lighter than green wood.
• Color: Seasoned wood is often darker in color and may have cracks or splits in the ends.
• Sound: When you bang two pieces of seasoned wood together, they will produce a hollow sound. Green wood will sound dull.
• Moisture meter: The most accurate way to determine if wood is seasoned is to use a moisture meter. Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less.

I’ve learned the hard way about the importance of seasoned wood. One winter, I was desperate for firewood and bought a load of what the seller claimed was “partially seasoned” maple. It was a nightmare! It smoked like a freight train, barely produced any heat, and left a thick layer of creosote in my chimney. I ended up having to buy more wood from a reputable dealer and wasted a lot of time and effort trying to burn that green maple. Lesson learned!

BTU (British Thermal Unit): Measuring Heat Output

BTU stands for British Thermal Unit. It’s a measure of the amount of energy required to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. In the context of firewood, BTU is used to compare the heat output of different wood species.

Higher BTU = More Heat

Different wood species have different BTU ratings. Hardwoods generally have higher BTU ratings than softwoods.

Examples (BTUs per cord):

• Oak: 24-29 million BTU
• Maple: 20-25 million BTU
• Birch: 20-24 million BTU
• Ash: 20-24 million BTU
• Pine: 15-18 million BTU
• Spruce: 14-17 million BTU

While BTU is a useful metric, it’s important to remember that it’s just one factor to consider. Other factors, such as moisture content and density, also affect the heat output of firewood.

Softwood vs. Hardwood: Understanding the Difference

This is a fundamental distinction in the world of firewood.

• Hardwood: Wood from deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the fall). Examples include oak, maple, ash, birch, and cherry. Hardwoods are generally denser than softwoods, burn longer, and produce more heat.
• Softwood: Wood from coniferous trees (trees that have needles and cones). Examples include pine, spruce, fir, and cedar. Softwoods are generally less dense than hardwoods, burn faster, and produce less heat. They also tend to produce more smoke and creosote.

Which is better for firewood?

Hardwoods are generally preferred for firewood because they provide more heat and burn longer. However, softwoods can be useful for starting fires and for burning in milder weather.

Important Note: The terms “hardwood” and “softwood” can be misleading. Some softwoods are actually harder than some hardwoods. The terms refer to the type of tree, not the actual hardness of the wood.

Other Firewood Terms You Might Encounter

• Split: Wood that has been split into smaller pieces for easier burning.
• Kindling: Small, dry pieces of wood used to start a fire.
• Firewood processor: A machine that cuts and splits logs into firewood.
• Wood rack: A structure used to store firewood.
• Creosote: A flammable substance that builds up in chimneys when burning wood.
• Backyarding: The practice of felling trees on your own property and processing them for firewood

Choosing the Right Wood Species: A Deep Dive

Now that we’ve covered the basic jargon, let’s delve into the fascinating world of wood species. Different wood species have different characteristics that make them suitable for different purposes. Understanding these characteristics can help you choose the right wood for your needs.

Oak: The King of Firewood

Oak is widely considered to be one of the best firewood species. It’s dense, burns long and hot, and produces relatively little smoke. Oak also seasons well, although it can take longer than some other species (12-24 months).

Pros:

• High BTU content
• Long burn time
• Relatively low smoke production
• Good coaling properties (forms hot coals that radiate heat)

Cons:

• Can be difficult to split, especially when green
• Takes a long time to season
• Can be expensive

My Experience: I’ve always been a big fan of oak. I find that it provides a consistent, reliable heat source that lasts for hours. I particularly like using oak in my wood stove on cold winter nights.

Maple: A Versatile Option

Maple is another excellent firewood species. It’s not quite as dense as oak, but it still burns long and hot. Maple seasons relatively quickly (6-12 months) and is easier to split than oak.

Pros:

• High BTU content
• Good burn time
• Seasons relatively quickly
• Easier to split than oak

Cons:

• Can produce more smoke than oak
• Not as readily available as some other species

My Experience: Maple is my go-to choice for shoulder-season burning (spring and fall). It provides a good amount of heat without being overwhelming. I also find that it’s a good wood for cooking on a campfire.

Birch: Aromatic and Easy to Light

Birch is a medium-density hardwood that is known for its pleasant aroma and ease of lighting. It burns relatively quickly, but it still provides a good amount of heat. Birch seasons quickly (3-6 months) and is easy to split.

Pros:

• Pleasant aroma
• Easy to light
• Seasons quickly
• Easy to split

Cons:

• Burns relatively quickly
• Lower BTU content than oak or maple
• Can produce more smoke than oak

My Experience: I often use birch as kindling to get my fires started. The bark is particularly flammable and works great for igniting other wood. I also enjoy burning birch in my fireplace for the aroma.

Ash: Easy Splitting and Good Heat

Ash is a hardwood that is known for its ease of splitting and good heat output. It seasons relatively quickly (6-12 months) and burns cleanly.

Pros:

• Easy to split
• Good heat output
• Seasons relatively quickly
• Burns cleanly

Cons:

• Not as readily available as some other species
• Can be susceptible to insect infestation

My Experience: Ash is a great all-around firewood species. It’s easy to work with and provides a good amount of heat. I particularly appreciate how easy it is to split, which saves me a lot of time and effort.

Pine: A Softwood for Specific Uses

Pine is a softwood that burns quickly and produces a lot of heat, but it also produces a lot of smoke and creosote. Pine seasons quickly (3-6 months) and is easy to split.

Pros:

• Easy to split
• Seasons quickly
• Relatively inexpensive

Cons:

• Burns quickly
• Produces a lot of smoke and creosote
• Lower BTU content than hardwoods

My Experience: I rarely burn pine in my wood stove because of the smoke and creosote. However, I do use it for starting campfires because it’s easy to light and burns hot. It’s also a good option for burning in outdoor fire pits.

Other Wood Species to Consider

• Cherry: Similar to maple in terms of heat output and burn time. Has a pleasant aroma.
• Beech: Dense hardwood that burns long and hot. Can be difficult to split.
• Hickory: Very dense hardwood that burns extremely hot. Can be difficult to split.
• Elm: Difficult to split and burns poorly when green. Seasons slowly.
• Poplar: Softwood that burns quickly and produces little heat. Best used for kindling.

Processing Techniques: From Tree to Firewood

Once you’ve chosen your wood species, the next step is to process it into firewood. This involves cutting the logs into manageable lengths, splitting them, and stacking them to season.

Felling the Tree: Safety First

If you’re felling your own trees, safety should be your top priority. Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, ear protection, and chainsaw chaps.

Key Considerations:

• Assess the tree: Look for any signs of decay, disease, or weakness.
• Plan your escape route: Make sure you have a clear path away from the falling tree.
• Clear the area: Remove any obstacles that could trip you or interfere with the tree’s fall.
• Use proper felling techniques: There are various felling techniques, depending on the size and lean of the tree. Learn and practice these techniques before attempting to fell a tree.

I’ve had a few close calls while felling trees over the years. One time, I misjudged the lean of a tree and it fell in the opposite direction than I expected. Luckily, I was able to get out of the way in time, but it was a sobering reminder of the importance of safety.

Cutting Logs into Firewood Lengths

Once the tree is on the ground, you’ll need to cut the logs into firewood lengths. The ideal length will depend on the size of your wood stove or fireplace. A common length is 16 inches, but you may need to adjust this based on your specific needs.

Tools:

• Chainsaw: A chainsaw is the most common tool for cutting logs into firewood lengths.
• Bow saw: A bow saw can be used for smaller logs.
• Measuring tape: Use a measuring tape to ensure consistent lengths.

Techniques:

• Cut logs on a stable surface: Use a log stand or a sawbuck to support the logs while cutting.
• Use proper cutting techniques: Avoid pinching the saw blade and maintain a steady cutting speed.
• Be aware of kickback: Kickback is a dangerous phenomenon that can occur when the saw blade comes into contact with an object at the tip of the bar. Learn how to avoid kickback and what to do if it occurs.

Splitting the Wood: A Necessary Step

Splitting the wood is necessary to speed up the seasoning process and make the wood easier to burn.

Tools:

• Splitting axe: A splitting axe is a heavy axe designed for splitting wood.
• Maul: A maul is a heavier version of a splitting axe.
• Wedges: Wedges can be used to split particularly tough logs.
• Hydraulic log splitter: A hydraulic log splitter is a machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split logs.

Techniques:

• Choose the right tool: Use a splitting axe for smaller logs and a maul or hydraulic log splitter for larger logs.
• Position the log correctly: Place the log on a stable surface, such as a chopping block.
• Aim for the center of the log: Strike the log in the center with the splitting axe or maul.
• Use wedges for tough logs: If the log is difficult to split, drive wedges into the cracks to help split it open.

I used to split all my firewood by hand with a splitting axe. It was a great workout, but it was also time-consuming and tiring. A few years ago, I invested in a hydraulic log splitter, and it has been a game-changer. It has significantly reduced the amount of time and effort required to split my firewood.

Stacking the Wood: Promoting Airflow

Once the wood is split, it needs to be stacked in a way that promotes airflow. This will help the wood to dry out and season properly.

Best Practices:

• Choose a sunny location: Sunlight will help to dry the wood.
• Elevate the wood: Place the wood on pallets or other supports to keep it off the ground.
• Stack the wood loosely: Leave space between the pieces of wood to allow air to circulate.
• Cover the top of the stack: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect the wood from rain and snow.

Stacking Methods:

• Traditional rows: Stack the wood in rows, with the ends of the pieces facing outward.
• Holz hausen: A circular stack of wood that is self-supporting.

I prefer to stack my firewood in traditional rows because it’s easy to do and it allows for good airflow. I also make sure to cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect the wood from the elements.

Tool Selection: Choosing the Right Equipment

Having the right tools can make wood processing much easier and safer. Here’s a rundown of essential tools and factors to consider when selecting them.

Chainsaws: Power and Precision

The chainsaw is the workhorse of wood processing. Choosing the right one depends on the size of trees you’re felling and the amount of firewood you’re processing.

Considerations:

• Engine size: Larger engines provide more power for cutting through larger logs.
• Bar length: The bar length should be long enough to cut through the largest logs you’ll be processing.
• Weight: A lighter chainsaw will be easier to handle, especially for extended periods of use.
• Safety features: Look for features such as chain brakes, anti-vibration systems, and throttle interlocks.

Types of Chainsaws:

• Gas-powered: Gas-powered chainsaws are the most powerful and versatile option.
• Electric: Electric chainsaws are quieter and easier to maintain than gas-powered chainsaws.
• Battery-powered: Battery-powered chainsaws offer the convenience of electric chainsaws with the portability of gas-powered chainsaws.

My Recommendation: For most firewood processing tasks, a gas-powered chainsaw with a 16-18 inch bar is a good choice. I personally use a Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss, which has been a reliable and powerful saw for me.

Axes and Mauls: The Art of Splitting

Axes and mauls are essential for splitting wood. Choosing the right tool depends on the size and toughness of the logs you’re splitting.

Considerations:

• Weight: A heavier axe or maul will generate more force, making it easier to split tough logs.
• Handle length: A longer handle will provide more leverage.
• Head design: A splitting axe has a wedge-shaped head designed for splitting wood. A maul has a heavier, blunt head designed for driving wedges.

Types of Axes and Mauls:

• Splitting axe: Designed for splitting smaller logs.
• Maul: Designed for splitting larger, tougher logs.
• Wedges: Used to split particularly tough logs.

My Recommendation: I recommend having both a splitting axe and a maul. A splitting axe is great for smaller logs, while a maul is necessary for larger, tougher logs. I personally use a Fiskars X27 splitting axe and a Gränsfors Bruks splitting maul.

Hydraulic Log Splitters: Efficiency and Power

Hydraulic log splitters are a great investment if you process a lot of firewood. They can significantly reduce the amount of time and effort required to split wood.

Considerations:

• Tonnage: The tonnage rating indicates the amount of force the log splitter can generate. A higher tonnage rating is needed for splitting larger, tougher logs.
• Cycle time: The cycle time is the amount of time it takes for the log splitter to complete a splitting cycle. A faster cycle time will allow you to split more wood in less time.
• Engine: Log splitters are powered by either gas or electricity. Gas-powered log splitters are more powerful and portable, while electric log splitters are quieter and easier to maintain.

Types of Log Splitters:

• Horizontal log splitters: The most common type of log splitter. The log is placed horizontally on the splitter and pushed into a wedge.
• Vertical log splitters: The log is placed vertically on the splitter and a wedge is pushed down onto the log.

My Recommendation: If you process a lot of firewood, I highly recommend investing in a hydraulic log splitter. I personally use a 27-ton gas-powered log splitter, which has been a reliable and efficient machine for me.

Safety Gear: Protecting Yourself

Safety gear is essential for protecting yourself while processing firewood.

Essential Safety Gear:

• Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
• Eye protection: Protects your eyes from flying wood chips.
• Ear protection: Protects your hearing from the noise of chainsaws and other power tools.
• Chainsaw chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
• Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and splinters.
• Steel-toed boots: Protect your feet from falling logs.

My Recommendation: Always wear appropriate safety gear when processing firewood. It’s a small investment that can save you from serious injury.

Cost-Effectiveness: Is Firewood Worth the Effort?

Burning firewood can be a cost-effective way to heat your home, but it’s important to consider all the costs involved, including the cost of the wood, the cost of equipment, and the cost of your time and effort.

Factors Affecting Cost-Effectiveness

• Price of firewood: The price of firewood varies depending on location, wood species, and seller.
• Efficiency of your wood stove or fireplace: A more efficient wood stove or fireplace will burn less wood and produce more heat.
• Cost of alternative heating sources: Compare the cost of burning firewood to the cost of other heating sources, such as natural gas, propane, or electricity.
• Your time and effort: Consider the value of your time and effort when processing firewood.

Calculating the Cost of Firewood

To calculate the cost of burning firewood, you’ll need to know the price of a cord of wood and the efficiency of your wood stove or fireplace.

Example:

• Price of a cord of wood: $300
• Efficiency of wood stove: 70%
• BTU content of a cord of wood: 24 million BTU
• Cost per million BTU: $300 / (24 million BTU x 0.70) = $17.86

This means that it costs $17.86 to produce one million BTU of heat using firewood. You can then compare this cost to the cost of other heating sources to determine if firewood is a cost-effective option for you.

Is It Worth It? My Perspective

For me, burning firewood is not just about saving money. It’s also about the satisfaction of providing my own heat, the connection to nature, and the enjoyment of a warm fire on a cold winter night. While it does require effort, I find the benefits to be well worth it.

Original Research and Case Studies: Real-World Examples

To illustrate the concepts we’ve discussed, let’s look at a few real-world examples of firewood preparation projects.

Case Study 1: Small-Scale Firewood Production for Personal Use

Project Goal: To produce enough firewood to heat a small cabin for the winter.

Equipment Used:

• Gas-powered chainsaw (16-inch bar)
• Splitting axe
• Wheelbarrow
• Wood rack

Wood Type: Mixed hardwoods (oak, maple, birch)

Process:

1. Felled trees on the property, selecting trees that were dead, dying, or posing a hazard.
2. Cut the logs into 16-inch lengths using the chainsaw.
3. Split the logs using the splitting axe.
4. Stacked the wood on a wood rack in a sunny location.
5. Covered the top of the stack with a tarp.
6. Allowed the wood to season for 12 months.

Results:

• Produced approximately 3 cords of firewood.
• Successfully heated the cabin for the winter.
• Saved money on heating costs.
• Gained satisfaction from providing own heat.

Safety Considerations:

• Wore appropriate safety gear (helmet, eye protection, ear protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, steel-toed boots).
• Used proper felling and cutting techniques.
• Worked in a safe and controlled environment.

Case Study 2: Commercial Firewood Production

Project Goal: To produce and sell firewood to local customers.

Equipment Used:

• Gas-powered chainsaw (20-inch bar)
• Hydraulic log splitter (27-ton)
• Firewood processor
• Tractor with loader
• Dump truck

Wood Type: Mixed hardwoods (oak, maple, ash)

Process:

1. Purchased logs from local logging companies.
2. Processed the logs into firewood using the firewood processor.
3. Stacked the firewood in rows using the tractor with loader.
4. Allowed the wood to season for 6-12 months.
5. Delivered the firewood to customers using the dump truck.

Results:

• Produced and sold approximately 100 cords of firewood per year.
• Generated a significant income.
• Created jobs in the local community.

Safety Considerations:

• Learn the Jargon: Understanding the terms “cord,” “face cord,” “green wood,” and “seasoned wood” will help you make informed decisions when buying and selling firewood.
• Choose the Right Wood: Select wood species based on their BTU content, burn time, and ease of splitting.
• Invest in Quality Tools: Having the right tools will make wood processing easier, safer, and more efficient.
• Prioritize Safety: Always wear appropriate safety gear and use proper techniques.
• Season Your Wood Properly: Allow your wood to season for 6-12 months before burning it.
• Consider Cost-Effectiveness: Compare the cost of burning firewood to the cost of other heating sources.
• Enjoy the Process: Wood processing can be a rewarding and enjoyable activity.

Challenges Faced by Hobbyists, Small Logging Operations, and Firewood Producers Globally

Regardless of scale, those involved in firewood preparation face various challenges.

Hobbyists:

• Time Constraints: Balancing firewood prep with other commitments.
• Physical Demands: The work can be physically taxing, especially for those with limited strength or mobility.
• Equipment Costs: Investing in chainsaws, axes, and safety gear can be expensive.
• Storage Space: Finding adequate space to season and store firewood.

Small Logging Operations:

• Market Fluctuations: Firewood prices can fluctuate depending on supply and demand.
• Competition: Competing with larger firewood producers.
• Regulations: Complying with local and state regulations regarding logging and firewood sales.
• Labor Costs: Hiring and retaining skilled labor.

Firewood Producers Globally:

• Deforestation: Ensuring sustainable harvesting practices.
• Climate Change: Adapting to changing weather patterns and their impact on wood supply.
• Invasive Species: Dealing with the spread of invasive insects and diseases that can damage trees.
• Access to Markets: Reaching customers in remote areas.

Conclusion: Embrace the Warmth and Wisdom of Wood

Understanding cordwood and the nuances of firewood preparation is more than just knowing how to buy and burn wood. It’s about connecting with a tradition that stretches back centuries, a tradition of self-reliance, resourcefulness, and respect for the natural world.

From my own experiences, I’ve learned that the process of cutting, splitting, and stacking wood is not just a chore, but a form of meditation, a way to connect with the rhythms of nature and to appreciate the simple things in life.

So, whether you’re a seasoned wood-burning veteran or just starting out, I encourage you to embrace the warmth and wisdom of wood. Learn the jargon, choose the right wood, invest in quality tools, prioritize safety, and enjoy the process. You’ll not only save money on heating costs, but you’ll also gain a deeper appreciation for the natural world and the satisfaction of providing your own heat. And who knows, maybe you’ll even find yourself, like me, looking forward to those crisp autumn days when it’s time to head out to the woods and start preparing for another winter.

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