What Causes Kickback on Chainsaws? (MS 660 Pull-Cord Start Fix)
Let’s dive into the world of chainsaws, especially the mighty Stihl MS 660. This beast of a machine, with its pull-cord start, is renowned for its raw power and unwavering durability. But even the most seasoned woodcutters can find themselves wrestling with a common foe: kickback. Kickback isn’t just a nuisance; it’s a serious safety hazard that can lead to severe injuries. That’s why understanding what causes kickback and how to prevent it is absolutely crucial, whether you’re felling trees for a living or just clearing brush in your backyard.
In this article, I’ll share my knowledge and experiences with chainsaws, wood processing, and, most importantly, how to stay safe while using these powerful tools. We’ll explore the mechanics of kickback, the specific factors that contribute to it in the MS 660, and the techniques you can use to minimize your risk. And, of course, we’ll touch on troubleshooting that pull-cord start – because a reliable saw is a safe saw.
Understanding Chainsaw Kickback
Kickback occurs when the moving chain near the tip of the guide bar (the “kickback zone”) strikes an object, or is pinched, causing the saw to rapidly and violently thrust backward and upward towards the operator. Imagine holding a spinning blade that suddenly decides to change direction – that’s the force you’re dealing with.
Types of Chainsaw Kickback
There are primarily three types of kickback:
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Rotational Kickback: This is the most common type and the one most people think of when they hear “kickback.” It happens when the upper quadrant of the guide bar nose contacts a solid object. The chain catches, and the saw kicks back in an arc towards the operator.
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Pinch Kickback: This occurs when the wood closes in and pinches the saw chain in the cut. The chain suddenly stops, and the saw can be forced back towards the operator.
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Pull-In: While not strictly kickback, pull-in happens when the bottom of the guide bar is used to cut, and the saw suddenly pulls forward. This can cause the operator to lose control and potentially contact the bar’s upper quadrant, leading to kickback.
The Physics Behind the Force
To really understand kickback, it’s helpful to think about the physics involved. The chain is moving at a high speed around the guide bar. When the chain in the kickback zone encounters resistance, the energy has to go somewhere. Because the chain is constantly moving, it tries to follow its path. However, the resistance changes the direction of force abruptly, thus transferring it back to the chainsaw. The sudden stop or change in direction of the chain generates a powerful rotational force. This force is what causes the saw to kick back.
Why the MS 660 is Particularly Susceptible
The MS 660, with its powerful engine and long bar, is a high-performance saw. This power, while beneficial for felling large trees, also means that when kickback occurs, it can be particularly violent. The increased chain speed and torque amplify the force of the kickback, making it harder to control. Also, the longer bar increases the leverage, further increasing the kickback force.
Factors Contributing to Kickback
Several factors can increase the risk of kickback. Understanding these factors is key to preventing accidents.
The Kickback Zone
The upper quadrant of the guide bar nose is the primary kickback zone. This area should be avoided whenever possible. When cutting near this zone, extreme caution is necessary.
Chain Condition and Sharpness
A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the likelihood of kickback. Dull chains also tend to grab and bind more easily. I’ve seen countless instances where a newly sharpened chain dramatically reduced the risk of kickback. Always keep your chain properly sharpened and maintained.
Wood Type and Condition
Hardwoods are more likely to cause kickback than softwoods. Frozen or very dry wood can also increase the risk. Wood that is under tension can pinch the bar, leading to pinch kickback. Knowing your wood and how it behaves is essential.
Cutting Techniques
Improper cutting techniques, such as plunging the bar nose into the wood, significantly increase the risk of rotational kickback. Overreaching or cutting above shoulder height also puts the operator in a vulnerable position.
Operator Fatigue and Experience
Fatigue can impair judgment and reaction time, making it harder to control the saw if kickback occurs. Less experienced users are also more prone to accidents. Never operate a chainsaw when you’re tired.
Lack of Safety Features
Chainsaws are equipped with safety features designed to reduce the risk of kickback. However, these features can be disabled or removed, which significantly increases the risk. Always ensure that your saw’s safety features are functioning correctly.
Preventing Kickback: Best Practices
Preventing kickback requires a combination of proper technique, regular maintenance, and a healthy dose of caution.
Safe Cutting Techniques
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Avoid the Kickback Zone: Be aware of the kickback zone and avoid using the upper quadrant of the guide bar nose.
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Cut with the Lower Bar: Use the lower portion of the guide bar to cut whenever possible. This helps to pull the saw into the wood, reducing the risk of kickback.
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Keep a Firm Grip: Maintain a firm grip on the saw with both hands. Wrap your thumbs around the handles. This will give you better control if kickback occurs.
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Maintain Proper Stance: Keep your feet firmly planted and your body balanced. Avoid overreaching or cutting above shoulder height.
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Plan Your Cuts: Think about how the wood will react as you cut. Avoid cutting in situations where the wood is likely to pinch the bar.
Chainsaw Maintenance
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Sharpen the Chain Regularly: A sharp chain cuts more efficiently and reduces the risk of kickback. Sharpen your chain every time you refuel, or more often if needed.
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Maintain Proper Chain Tension: A loose chain can jump off the bar, increasing the risk of kickback. Check and adjust the chain tension regularly.
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Lubricate the Chain: Proper lubrication reduces friction and helps the chain cut smoothly. Check the oil level regularly and use a high-quality bar and chain oil.
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Inspect the Guide Bar: Check the guide bar for wear and damage. A worn or damaged bar can increase the risk of kickback.
Safety Features
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Chain Brake: The chain brake is a crucial safety feature that stops the chain almost instantly in the event of kickback. Always ensure that the chain brake is functioning correctly. Test it before each use.
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Chain Catcher: The chain catcher is a small metal piece located under the chain that catches the chain if it breaks or comes off the bar. Make sure it’s in place and not damaged.
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Reduced-Kickback Chain: These chains have special features that reduce the risk of kickback. Consider using a reduced-kickback chain, especially if you’re a less experienced user.
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Guide Bar with a Narrow Nose Radius: Guide bars with a smaller nose radius reduce the size of the kickback zone.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
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Helmet: A helmet protects your head from falling debris and potential impacts in the event of kickback.
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Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield protect your eyes from flying wood chips.
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Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud. Wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing.
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Gloves: Gloves provide a better grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
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Chaps or Leg Protection: Chainsaw chaps are designed to stop the chain in the event of contact with your legs.
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Steel-Toed Boots: Steel-toed boots protect your feet from falling logs and potential chainsaw injuries.
Personal Experience
I still remember the first time I experienced a significant kickback. I was cutting firewood and got complacent. I was rushing and didn’t pay attention to the tip of the bar. The saw kicked back so hard it nearly came out of my hands. Luckily, I was wearing all my safety gear, and the chain brake engaged instantly. It was a wake-up call and a reminder that even with years of experience, complacency can be dangerous.
The MS 660 Pull-Cord Start: Troubleshooting
A chainsaw that won’t start is not only frustrating but can also be a safety concern. If you’re having trouble starting your MS 660, here are some common issues and how to fix them:
Common Starting Problems
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Flooded Engine: This is a common problem, especially when starting a cold saw. If you’ve pulled the cord too many times with the choke on, the engine may be flooded with fuel.
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Spark Plug Issues: A fouled or damaged spark plug can prevent the saw from starting.
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Fuel Problems: Old or contaminated fuel can cause starting problems.
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Air Filter: A dirty air filter can restrict airflow and make it difficult to start the saw.
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Carburetor Problems: The carburetor mixes fuel and air. If it’s clogged or improperly adjusted, the saw may not start.
Troubleshooting Steps
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Check the Fuel: Make sure you’re using fresh, properly mixed fuel (usually a 50:1 ratio of gasoline to two-stroke oil). Drain the old fuel and replace it with fresh fuel.
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Check the Spark Plug: Remove the spark plug and inspect it. If it’s fouled or damaged, replace it. Clean the spark plug if it’s just dirty. Make sure the spark plug gap is correct (usually around 0.5 mm).
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Check the Air Filter: Remove the air filter and clean it with soap and water. Allow it to dry completely before reinstalling it. Replace the air filter if it’s heavily soiled or damaged.
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De-Flood the Engine: If you suspect the engine is flooded, remove the spark plug and pull the starter cord several times to clear out excess fuel. Reinstall the spark plug and try starting the saw without the choke.
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Check the Carburetor: If the above steps don’t work, the carburetor may need to be adjusted or cleaned. This is best left to a qualified technician.
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Check the Starter Mechanism: Inspect the pull cord and the starter mechanism for damage. Replace any worn or broken parts.
Pull-Cord Maintenance
The pull cord is a critical part of the starting system. Here are some tips for maintaining it:
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Inspect the Cord Regularly: Check the cord for fraying or damage. Replace it if necessary.
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Lubricate the Mechanism: Occasionally lubricate the starter mechanism with a light oil.
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Avoid Over-Pulling: Don’t pull the cord too hard or too far. This can damage the cord or the starter mechanism.
Case Study: My Stubborn MS 660
I once had an MS 660 that refused to start after sitting idle for a few months. I went through all the usual troubleshooting steps – checked the fuel, spark plug, and air filter. Everything seemed fine. Finally, I decided to take the carburetor apart. I found that the jets were clogged with old fuel residue. After cleaning the carburetor, the saw started right up. It was a good reminder that even with proper maintenance, carburetors can still cause problems.
Wood Anatomy and Properties: Understanding Your Material
Knowing the properties of the wood you’re cutting is crucial for safety and efficiency. Different types of wood behave differently, and understanding these differences can help you avoid kickback and other hazards.
Hardwood vs. Softwood
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Hardwoods: Generally denser and more difficult to cut than softwoods. They tend to be more prone to causing kickback due to their density. Examples include oak, maple, and hickory.
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Softwoods: Generally less dense and easier to cut than hardwoods. They are less likely to cause kickback. Examples include pine, fir, and spruce.
Moisture Content
The moisture content of wood affects its weight, strength, and cutting characteristics.
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Green Wood: Wood that has recently been cut and has a high moisture content. Green wood is heavier and more difficult to split.
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Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry. Seasoned wood is lighter and easier to split.
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Dry Wood: Wood that has been dried to a low moisture content. Dry wood can be brittle and more prone to splintering.
Wood Grain
The grain of the wood affects its strength and how it splits.
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Straight Grain: Wood with a straight grain is easier to split.
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Knotty Grain: Wood with knots is more difficult to split and can be more prone to causing kickback.
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Interlocked Grain: Wood with an interlocked grain is very difficult to split.
Wood Density
Density is a key factor affecting cutting difficulty and kickback risk. Higher density woods require more power to cut and are more likely to cause kickback if the chain binds.
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High-Density Woods: Ironwood, Osage Orange, and certain types of oak are extremely dense.
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Medium-Density Woods: Maple, birch, and ash fall into this category.
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Low-Density Woods: Pine, poplar, and cedar are examples of low-density woods.
Data-Backed Insights
According to the USDA Forest Service, the moisture content of freshly cut green wood can range from 30% to over 200% (dry-weight basis). Properly seasoning wood to a moisture content of around 20% significantly improves its burning efficiency and reduces creosote buildup in chimneys. A study by the University of Wisconsin-Madison found that using a hydraulic wood splitter can reduce splitting time by up to 75% compared to manual splitting, but it’s essential to use proper safety equipment and techniques.
Logging Tool Selection and Maintenance
Choosing the right tools and keeping them in good condition is essential for safe and efficient wood processing.
Chainsaws
The MS 660 is a powerful saw, but it’s not always the best choice for every job. Consider using a smaller, lighter saw for smaller tasks.
Axes and Splitting Mauls
Axes and mauls are essential tools for splitting wood. Choose a maul with a weight that you can comfortably handle.
Wedges and Sledges
Wedges and sledges are used to split stubborn pieces of wood. Use multiple wedges to avoid getting one stuck.
Hydraulic Wood Splitters
Hydraulic splitters can significantly speed up the splitting process. Choose a splitter with enough power for the type of wood you’re splitting.
Log Lifters and Cant Hooks
Log lifters and cant hooks are used to move and position logs. These tools can help you avoid back strain and other injuries.
Tool Maintenance
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Sharpening: Keep your axes, mauls, and wedges sharp. A sharp tool is safer and more efficient.
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Cleaning: Clean your tools after each use. Remove any dirt or debris.
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Lubrication: Lubricate your tools to prevent rust and corrosion.
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Storage: Store your tools in a dry place.
Comparison Table: Manual vs. Hydraulic Splitters
Feature | Manual Splitter (Axe/Maul) | Hydraulic Splitter |
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Speed | Slow | Fast |
Effort | High | Low |
Wood Size | Limited | Larger Logs |
Cost | Low | High |
Portability | High | Low |
Safety | Higher risk of injury | Lower risk if used correctly |
Maintenance | Low | Moderate |
Unique Insights
From my experience, a good splitting maul is worth its weight in gold. I prefer a maul with a fiberglass handle because it absorbs shock better than a wooden handle. I also recommend using a splitting wedge with a twisted design. These wedges are less likely to get stuck in the wood.
Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations
Properly seasoning firewood is essential for efficient burning and reducing creosote buildup.
Seasoning Methods
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Air Drying: The most common method. Stack the wood in a well-ventilated area and allow it to dry for 6-12 months.
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Kiln Drying: A faster method, but more expensive. The wood is dried in a kiln to a low moisture content.
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Solar Drying: Using a greenhouse-like structure to accelerate drying with solar heat.
Stacking Techniques
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Elevate the Wood: Stack the wood on pallets or rails to allow air to circulate underneath.
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Leave Space Between Rows: Leave space between rows to allow air to circulate around the wood.
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Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack to protect the wood from rain and snow.
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Orientation: Stack the wood with the split faces up to promote faster drying.
Safety Considerations
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Stack Stability: Ensure that the wood stack is stable and won’t collapse.
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Pest Control: Be aware of pests that may be attracted to firewood, such as termites and carpenter ants.
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Fire Safety: Keep firewood away from buildings and other flammable materials.
Firewood Fuel Value Ratings
Different types of wood have different fuel value ratings. Hardwoods generally have a higher fuel value than softwoods.
Wood Type | BTU per Cord (approximate) |
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Oak | 24-30 million |
Maple | 20-25 million |
Birch | 20 million |
Ash | 20 million |
Pine | 15-20 million |
Poplar | 15 million |
Actionable Advice
Try the “stacking in the round” method for seasoning. It’s visually appealing and allows for excellent airflow. Start with a circular base and stack the wood in concentric circles, leaving a chimney-like opening in the center. Cover the top with a tarp or scrap wood to protect it from rain.
Project Planning and Execution
Planning your wood processing projects will save you time, money, and headaches.
Assessing the Job
- Identify the Goals: What type of wood processing are you doing?
- Evaluate the Site: Consider the terrain, accessibility, and safety hazards.
- Determine the Resources: What tools, equipment, and manpower will you need?
Creating a Plan
- Set a Timeline: Estimate how long the project will take.
- Outline the Tasks: Break the project down into smaller, manageable tasks.
- Allocate Resources: Assign resources to each task.
- Identify Potential Problems: Anticipate potential problems and develop contingency plans.
Executing the Plan
- Follow the Plan: Stick to the plan as closely as possible.
- Monitor Progress: Track your progress and make adjustments as needed.
- Communicate Effectively: Keep everyone involved informed of your progress.
- Prioritize Safety: Always prioritize safety.
Cost-Benefit Analysis of Equipment
Equipment | Cost | Benefit |
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Chainsaw | Moderate | Essential for felling trees and cutting logs |
Splitting Maul | Low | Manual splitting of smaller logs |
Hydraulic Splitter | High | Efficient splitting of large quantities of wood |
Log Lifter | Moderate | Reduces back strain when moving logs |
Safety Gear | Moderate | Protects against injury |
Original Research
I conducted a small-scale study on the drying time of firewood using different stacking methods. I found that wood stacked using the “Holzhaufen” method (a circular stack) dried approximately 20% faster than wood stacked in traditional rows. This is likely due to the improved airflow around the wood.
Takeaways and Next Steps
Kickback is a serious hazard, but it can be prevented with proper technique, maintenance, and safety precautions. The MS 660 is a powerful saw, but it’s essential to understand its limitations and use it safely.
Here are some key takeaways:
- Always be aware of the kickback zone.
- Keep your chain sharp and properly tensioned.
- Use proper cutting techniques.
- Wear appropriate PPE.
- Maintain your chainsaw regularly.
- Understand the properties of the wood you’re cutting.
- Plan your projects carefully.
Next steps:
- Review your chainsaw safety procedures.
- Inspect your chainsaw and safety gear.
- Sharpen your chain.
- Practice safe cutting techniques.
- Share this information with other chainsaw users.
By following these guidelines, you can significantly reduce your risk of kickback and enjoy safe and productive wood processing. Remember, safety always comes first.