Walker Saw Shop Tips (5 Pro Chainsaw Hacks For Arborists)

Walker Saw Shop Tips: 5 Pro Chainsaw Hacks for Arborists

Have you ever felt like your chainsaw was holding you back, like it wasn’t quite performing to its full potential? I’ve been there. For years, I’ve run Walker Saw Shop, and I’ve seen countless arborists struggle with the same issues. It’s not always about having the most expensive saw; it’s about knowing how to optimize what you’ve got. These five pro hacks, honed over years of experience in the field and in the shop, will help you unlock your chainsaw’s true power and efficiency. They’re the kind of tricks that separate the weekend warriors from the seasoned pros. Let’s dive in!

1. Mastering Depth Gauge Adjustments for Aggressive Cutting

One of the most overlooked aspects of chainsaw performance is the depth gauge setting. Many arborists simply run their chains straight out of the box, never realizing they’re missing out on significant cutting power. The depth gauge, also known as the raker, controls how much wood each cutter takes with each pass. Too high, and your saw will feel sluggish; too low, and you risk kickback and a rough cut.

Understanding the Raker’s Role

The raker sits just ahead of each cutting tooth. Its height determines the size of the “bite” the tooth takes. Think of it like a carpenter’s plane: the lower the plane blade extends, the thicker the shaving it removes.

The Sweet Spot: Finding the Optimal Setting

Finding the optimal depth gauge setting is a balancing act. You want enough bite for efficient cutting, but not so much that the saw becomes uncontrollable. A good starting point is to lower the rakers by 0.025 inches (0.635 mm) below the top of the cutter. This works well for most softwood applications. For hardwoods, you might want to start with a slightly more conservative setting of 0.020 inches (0.508 mm).

Tools and Techniques

Depth Gauge Tool: This is a small, inexpensive tool that allows you to precisely measure and file the depth gauges. I prefer the flat, rectangular type with different gauge settings etched into it.
Flat File: A high-quality flat file is essential for removing material from the rakers. I recommend an 8-inch mill bastard file.
Filing Guide (Optional): A filing guide can help ensure you maintain the correct angle and uniformity when filing the rakers.

Step-by-Step Guide to Filing Depth Gauges

Secure the Chain: Clamp the chainsaw bar in a vise to prevent movement. Make sure the chain is taut.
Identify the Rakers: Locate the rakers just ahead of each cutting tooth.
Measure the Existing Setting: Use the depth gauge tool to measure the current height of the rakers. Note the reading.
Determine the Desired Setting: Based on the type of wood you’ll be cutting, decide how much to lower the rakers.
File the Rakers: Place the depth gauge tool on top of the cutter, with the appropriate gauge setting aligned over the raker. The raker should protrude through the opening in the tool. Use the flat file to carefully remove material from the raker until it is flush with the top of the tool. File in a smooth, even motion, following the original contour of the raker.
Repeat: Repeat the filing process for each raker on the chain.
Check for Uniformity: After filing all the rakers, double-check that they are all at the same height. Use the depth gauge tool to verify.
Round the Rakers: Use the flat file to slightly round the front edge of each raker. This helps prevent the rakers from digging into the wood and causing kickback.

Case Study: The Difference Depth Gauges Make

I once worked with a tree service struggling to efficiently remove a large oak tree. Their saw seemed underpowered, and the cuts were slow and rough. After inspecting their chain, I noticed the depth gauges were significantly too high. I filed them down to 0.020 inches. The difference was night and day. The saw cut through the oak like butter, and the crew finished the job in half the time.

Takeaway: Properly adjusted depth gauges are crucial for maximizing chainsaw performance. Invest in the right tools, learn the technique, and experiment to find the optimal setting for your specific needs.

2. Optimizing Bar and Chain Lubrication for Longevity

Proper lubrication is the lifeblood of your chainsaw. Without it, your bar and chain will wear out prematurely, your saw will overheat, and you’ll experience a significant drop in performance. I’ve seen countless saws come into the shop with irreparable damage due to inadequate lubrication.

Why Lubrication Matters

Reduces Friction: Lubrication minimizes friction between the chain, bar, and sprocket, preventing excessive heat buildup.
Extends Bar and Chain Life: Reduced friction translates to less wear and tear, extending the lifespan of your bar and chain.
Improves Cutting Efficiency: A well-lubricated chain cuts more smoothly and efficiently, reducing strain on the engine and the operator.
Prevents Corrosion: Lubrication helps protect the bar and chain from rust and corrosion.

Choosing the Right Oil

Bar and Chain Oil: Always use a dedicated bar and chain oil. These oils are formulated with tackifiers that help them cling to the bar and chain, providing superior lubrication. I recommend using a high-quality bar and chain oil with a viscosity rating of SAE 30 or 40.
Vegetable-Based Oils: Vegetable-based bar and chain oils are biodegradable and environmentally friendly. They are a good option if you are working in sensitive areas. However, they may not provide the same level of lubrication as petroleum-based oils, and they can become gummy over time.
Avoid Motor Oil: Never use motor oil as a substitute for bar and chain oil. Motor oil is not designed to withstand the high temperatures and pressures of a chainsaw bar and chain.

Optimizing Oil Flow

Check the Oiler: Regularly check the oiler to ensure it is functioning properly. Most chainsaws have an adjustable oiler that allows you to control the amount of oil delivered to the bar and chain.
Adjust the Oiler: Adjust the oiler according to the type of wood you are cutting and the length of your bar. For hardwoods and longer bars, you will need to increase the oil flow. For softwoods and shorter bars, you can reduce the oil flow.
Clean the Oiler: Periodically clean the oiler to remove any debris that may be clogging it.
Check the Bar’s Oil Holes: Make sure the oil holes on the bar are clear and free of debris. Use a small wire or pick to clean them if necessary.

Tips for Effective Lubrication

Fill the Oil Reservoir Regularly: Never let the oil reservoir run dry. Check the oil level frequently and top it off as needed.
Monitor Oil Consumption: Pay attention to how much oil your saw is using. If you notice a sudden increase in oil consumption, it could indicate a problem with the oiler or the bar and chain.
Use the Right Bar Length: Using a bar that is too long for your saw can strain the oiler and lead to inadequate lubrication.

My Personal Experience: The Power of Synthetic Oil

I switched to using a high-quality synthetic bar and chain oil a few years ago, and I’ve been amazed by the results. My bars and chains last significantly longer, and my saws run cooler and smoother. While it’s a bit more expensive upfront, the long-term savings are well worth it.

Takeaway: Proper lubrication is essential for chainsaw longevity and performance. Choose the right oil, optimize oil flow, and follow these tips to keep your bar and chain running smoothly.

3. The “Three-Cut Felling Technique” for Precise Tree Falling

Tree felling is one of the most dangerous aspects of arboriculture. I’ve seen too many accidents caused by improper felling techniques. Mastering the three-cut felling technique can significantly improve your safety and precision.

Understanding the Three-Cut Technique

The three-cut felling technique, also known as the Humboldt cut, is a controlled method for felling trees that minimizes the risk of barber chairing (splitting the tree trunk vertically) and allows for more accurate directional control. It involves making three strategic cuts:

The Undercut (Face Cut): This cut creates a hinge that controls the direction of the fall.
The Back Cut: This cut severs the remaining wood fibers, allowing the tree to fall.
The Hinge: The uncut portion of the tree between the undercut and back cut.

Step-by-Step Guide to the Three-Cut Technique

Assess the Tree: Before making any cuts, carefully assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any potential hazards such as dead limbs or power lines.
Plan Your Escape Route: Always plan a clear escape route that is at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
The Undercut (Face Cut):
- The Top Cut: Make a sloping cut into the tree at a 45-degree angle, aiming towards the center of the tree. The depth of this cut should be about one-fifth to one-third of the tree’s diameter.
- The Bottom Cut: Make a horizontal cut that meets the top cut, creating a wedge-shaped notch. Remove the wedge of wood.
The Back Cut:
- Positioning: Stand to the side of the tree, opposite the direction of the fall.
- Making the Cut: Make a horizontal cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the bottom of the undercut. Leave a hinge of uncut wood between the back cut and the undercut. The width of the hinge should be about one-tenth of the tree’s diameter.
The Hinge: The hinge controls the direction of the fall. If the hinge is too thin, the tree may fall unpredictably. If the hinge is too thick, the tree may not fall at all.
Final Push: Once the back cut is complete, use a felling lever or wedge to gently push the tree over.
Escape: Immediately move to your planned escape route as the tree begins to fall.

Measurements and Specifications

Undercut Depth: 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter
Hinge Width: 1/10 of the tree’s diameter
Back Cut Height: Slightly above the bottom of the undercut

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Cutting Too Deep: Cutting the undercut too deep can weaken the hinge and cause the tree to fall unpredictably.
Cutting the Back Cut Too Low: Cutting the back cut too low can cause the tree to sit back on the stump or barber chair.
Failing to Plan an Escape Route: Always plan a clear escape route before making any cuts.

My Toughest Fell: A Lesson in Precision

I once had to fell a massive redwood tree in a densely populated area. The tree was leaning heavily towards a house, and there was very little room for error. I spent hours carefully planning the cut, and I used the three-cut technique with extreme precision. The tree fell exactly where I wanted it to, avoiding any damage to the house. That experience taught me the importance of patience and precision in tree felling.

Takeaway: The three-cut felling technique is a safe and effective method for felling trees. Practice this technique regularly, and always prioritize safety.

4. Chain Sharpening Mastery: Achieving a Razor-Sharp Edge Every Time

A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. It requires more effort to cut, increases the risk of kickback, and puts unnecessary strain on your saw. Mastering chain sharpening is essential for any arborist. I’ve seen firsthand how a sharp chain can transform a frustrating job into a smooth and efficient one.

Understanding Chain Anatomy

Before you can sharpen a chain, you need to understand its anatomy. A chainsaw chain consists of several components, including:

Cutters: The teeth that do the cutting. Each cutter has a top plate and a side plate.
Rakers (Depth Gauges): The small projections in front of each cutter that control the depth of the cut.
Tie Straps: The metal links that connect the cutters and rakers.
Drive Links: The links that fit into the groove of the chainsaw bar and are driven by the sprocket.

Tools for Chain Sharpening

Round File: A round file is used to sharpen the cutters. The correct file size depends on the chain pitch.
Flat File: A flat file is used to file the depth gauges.
Filing Guide: A filing guide helps maintain the correct angle and depth when sharpening the cutters.
Depth Gauge Tool: A depth gauge tool is used to measure and file the depth gauges.
Vise: A vise is used to hold the chainsaw bar securely while sharpening the chain.

Step-by-Step Guide to Chain Sharpening

Secure the Bar: Clamp the chainsaw bar in a vise to prevent movement. Make sure the chain is taut.
Identify the Cutters: Locate the cutters on the chain.
Determine the Correct File Size: Consult your chainsaw’s manual or the chain manufacturer’s recommendations to determine the correct file size for your chain pitch.
Set the Filing Angle: Use the filing guide to set the correct filing angle for your chain. The angle is typically marked on the filing guide.
Sharpen the Cutters: Place the round file in the cutter, resting it against the filing guide. File the cutter in a smooth, even motion, following the original contour of the cutter. File from the inside of the cutter towards the outside. Repeat this process several times until the cutter is sharp.
Repeat: Repeat the sharpening process for each cutter on the chain.
File the Depth Gauges: Use the depth gauge tool and flat file to file the depth gauges as described in Hack #1.
Check for Uniformity: After sharpening all the cutters, double-check that they are all the same length and shape.

Tips for Achieving a Razor-Sharp Edge

Use a Sharp File: Always use a sharp file. A dull file will not sharpen the chain effectively and can damage the cutters.
Maintain the Correct Angle: Maintaining the correct filing angle is crucial for achieving a sharp edge. Use a filing guide to ensure accuracy.
File Evenly: File each cutter evenly to ensure that they are all the same length and shape.
Avoid Over-Sharpening: Over-sharpening can weaken the cutters and make them more prone to damage.
Clean the Chain: Clean the chain regularly to remove dirt and debris that can dull the cutters.

My Sharpening Secret: The Stihl 2-in-1 File

I’ve found the Stihl 2-in-1 file to be a game-changer for chain sharpening. It sharpens both the cutter and lowers the raker at the same time, ensuring the cutter and raker are always in the correct relationship. It’s quick, easy to use, and delivers consistent results.

Takeaway: Mastering chain sharpening is essential for chainsaw performance and safety. Invest in the right tools, learn the technique, and practice regularly to keep your chain razor-sharp.

5. Diagnosing and Resolving Common Chainsaw Problems in the Field

Even with the best maintenance, chainsaws can experience problems in the field. Knowing how to diagnose and resolve these issues can save you time and money. I’ve seen too many arborists stranded in the middle of a job due to a simple problem they could have fixed themselves.

Common Chainsaw Problems and Solutions

Saw Won’t Start:
- Possible Causes: Empty fuel tank, stale fuel, clogged air filter, fouled spark plug, flooded engine.
- Troubleshooting Steps:
  1. Check the fuel level and refill if necessary.
  2. Drain the fuel tank and replace with fresh fuel.
  3. Clean or replace the air filter.
  4. Clean or replace the spark plug.
  5. De-flood the engine by removing the spark plug and pulling the starter cord several times.
Saw Starts But Stalls:
- Possible Causes: Clogged fuel filter, carburetor problems, incorrect idle speed.
- Troubleshooting Steps:
  1. Replace the fuel filter.
  2. Adjust the carburetor settings (idle speed, high-speed jet, low-speed jet).
  3. Clean the carburetor.
Saw Cuts Slowly:
- Possible Causes: Dull chain, incorrect depth gauge setting, insufficient bar and chain lubrication.
- Troubleshooting Steps:
  1. Sharpen the chain.
  2. Adjust the depth gauges.
  3. Check the bar and chain oil level and oiler function.
Saw Overheats:
- Possible Causes: Insufficient bar and chain lubrication, dull chain, clogged cooling fins.
- Troubleshooting Steps:
  1. Check the bar and chain oil level and oiler function.
  2. Sharpen the chain.
  3. Clean the cooling fins on the engine.
Chain Smokes Excessively:
- Possible Causes: Incorrect fuel mixture, excessive bar and chain oil.
- Troubleshooting Steps:
  1. Use the correct fuel mixture (typically 50:1 gasoline to two-stroke oil).
  2. Adjust the oiler to reduce the amount of oil delivered to the bar and chain.

Tools for Field Repairs

Screwdriver: A multi-tool with various screwdriver bits is essential.
Spark Plug Wrench: A spark plug wrench is needed to remove and install the spark plug.
Pliers: Pliers are useful for gripping and manipulating small parts.
Adjustable Wrench: An adjustable wrench can be used to tighten and loosen nuts and bolts.
Air Filter Brush: A brush is used to clean the air filter.
Fuel Filter Removal Tool: A tool to remove the fuel filter from the tank.
Spare Spark Plug: Carry a spare spark plug in case the original one becomes fouled.
Spare Fuel Filter: Carry a spare fuel filter in case the original one becomes clogged.
Chain Repair Tool: A chain repair tool and extra chain links can be a lifesaver if your chain breaks in the field.

My Emergency Kit: Always Prepared

I always carry a small emergency kit with me when I’m working in the field. It includes all the tools and spare parts listed above, as well as a first-aid kit, a flashlight, and a cell phone. Being prepared can make the difference between a minor inconvenience and a major disaster.

Takeaway: Being able to diagnose and resolve common chainsaw problems in the field can save you time and money. Carry the necessary tools and spare parts, and familiarize yourself with basic troubleshooting techniques.

By implementing these five pro chainsaw hacks, you’ll not only improve your efficiency and safety but also extend the life of your equipment. Remember, arboriculture is a skill that requires continuous learning and refinement. Keep practicing, stay safe, and keep cutting!

Walker Saw Shop Tips (5 Pro Chainsaw Hacks for Arborists)