Using Trees as Fence Posts (Live Wood Techniques for Durability)

In recent years, I’ve noticed a fascinating trend in sustainable fencing: the resurgence of using live trees as fence posts. It’s a blend of old-world techniques and modern permaculture principles, where we work with nature, not against it. Forget the endless cycle of replacing rotted wooden posts – this method offers a living, breathing fence that can last for generations. I’ve experimented with this myself, turning neglected hedgerows into robust, stock-proof barriers. There are challenges, of course, but the rewards – a beautiful, eco-friendly, and incredibly durable fence – are well worth the effort. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about using live trees as fence posts, from selecting the right species to weaving a living wall.

Live Wood Fencing: A Sustainable Approach

The idea behind live wood fencing is simple: instead of driving dead posts into the ground, you use living trees as the structural supports for your fence. These trees continue to grow, becoming stronger and more deeply rooted over time. The fencing material – usually woven branches or wire – is attached to these living posts, creating a secure and natural barrier.

Why Choose Live Wood Fencing?

• Durability: Live trees, unlike dead wood, resist rot and decay. A properly maintained live fence can last for decades, even centuries. I’ve seen examples in Europe that are hundreds of years old.
• Sustainability: This method utilizes renewable resources and reduces the need for treated lumber, which often contains harmful chemicals.
• Aesthetics: A living fence is a beautiful addition to any landscape, providing a natural and integrated look.
• Wildlife Habitat: Live fences can provide shelter and food for birds, insects, and other wildlife, enhancing biodiversity.
• Cost-Effectiveness: While there’s an initial investment of time and effort, live fences can save money in the long run by eliminating the need for post replacements.

Challenges and Considerations

• Time Investment: Establishing a live fence requires patience. It takes time for the trees to grow and mature.
• Maintenance: Live fences require regular pruning and maintenance to keep them healthy and functional.
• Species Selection: Choosing the right tree species is crucial for success. Not all trees are suitable for live fencing.
• Climate and Soil: The local climate and soil conditions will influence the choice of tree species and the overall success of the fence.
• Potential for Spread: Some tree species can be invasive, so it’s important to choose species that are well-behaved in your region.

Selecting the Right Tree Species

Choosing the right tree species is paramount. You need trees that are strong, flexible, and able to withstand the rigors of being part of a fence. Here are some of my top recommendations, along with their specific characteristics:

Hawthorn (Crataegus spp.)

• Characteristics: Thorny, dense growth habit, extremely durable wood.
• Why it’s good: Hawthorn is a classic choice for live fencing. Its thorns deter livestock and wildlife, and it readily sprouts from cuttings. I’ve found hawthorn to be incredibly resilient, even in poor soil conditions.
• Considerations: Can be slow-growing initially. Needs regular pruning to maintain shape.
• Ideal climate: Temperate climates.

Willow (Salix spp.)

• Characteristics: Fast-growing, flexible branches, readily roots from cuttings.
• Why it’s good: Willow is excellent for quick establishment. Its pliable branches are ideal for weaving. I’ve used willow to create temporary fences and living screens.
• Considerations: Requires moist soil. Can be prone to disease in some areas. Needs frequent pruning. Some varieties can be invasive.
• Ideal climate: Temperate to cool climates with moist soil.

Hazel (Corylus avellana)

• Characteristics: Multi-stemmed, flexible branches, produces edible nuts.
• Why it’s good: Hazel is a good choice for a productive fence. Its nuts provide food for wildlife and humans. The coppiced stems are ideal for weaving.
• Considerations: Requires regular coppicing (cutting back to the base) to maintain shape and vigor.
• Ideal climate: Temperate climates.

Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa)

• Characteristics: Thorny, dense growth habit, produces sloes (small, tart fruits).
• Why it’s good: Similar to hawthorn, blackthorn provides a formidable barrier. Its thorns are particularly sharp.
• Considerations: Can be invasive in some areas.
• Ideal climate: Temperate climates.

Osage Orange (Maclura pomifera)

• Characteristics: Thorny, extremely durable wood, drought-tolerant.
• Why it’s good: Osage Orange is incredibly strong and rot-resistant. Its thorns are legendary. I’ve seen Osage Orange posts that have lasted for over a century.
• Considerations: Can be difficult to propagate. The thorny fruits can be messy.
• Ideal climate: Temperate to warm climates.

Table: Tree Species Comparison

Takeaway: Carefully consider your climate, soil conditions, and fencing needs when selecting tree species. Research local regulations regarding potentially invasive species.

Propagation Methods

Once you’ve chosen your tree species, you need to propagate them. There are several methods you can use:

Cuttings

• Hardwood Cuttings: This method involves taking cuttings from dormant, mature wood in late fall or early winter. I’ve had the most success with willow and hazel using this method.
  • Procedure:
    1. Select healthy, one-year-old shoots.
    2. Cut the shoots into 6-12 inch lengths.
    3. Dip the cut ends in rooting hormone (optional).
    4. Plant the cuttings in a well-drained rooting medium, such as sand or perlite.
    5. Keep the medium moist but not waterlogged.
    6. Overwinter the cuttings in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse.
    7. Plant out in spring.
• Softwood Cuttings: This method involves taking cuttings from new, actively growing shoots in late spring or early summer.
  • Procedure:
    1. Select healthy, new shoots.
    2. Cut the shoots into 4-6 inch lengths.
    3. Remove the lower leaves.
    4. Dip the cut ends in rooting hormone (optional).
    5. Plant the cuttings in a well-drained rooting medium.
    6. Keep the medium moist and humid.
    7. Provide shade to prevent the cuttings from drying out.
    8. Rooting typically takes 2-4 weeks.

Layering

• Ground Layering: This method involves bending a low-lying branch to the ground and burying a portion of it. The buried portion will eventually root, and you can then sever it from the parent plant. I’ve used this method successfully with hazel and blackthorn.
  • Procedure:
    1. Select a healthy, low-lying branch.
    2. Bend the branch to the ground.
    3. Score the underside of the branch where it will touch the ground.
    4. Bury the scored portion of the branch in the soil.
    5. Weigh down the buried portion with a rock or brick.
    6. Keep the soil moist.
    7. After several months, check for root development.
    8. Once roots have formed, sever the layered branch from the parent plant.
    9. Transplant the new plant to its desired location.

Seed Propagation

• Some tree species, such as hawthorn and blackthorn, can be propagated from seed. However, this method can be slow and unreliable.
  • Procedure:
    1. Collect ripe seeds in the fall.
    2. Stratify the seeds (expose them to cold, moist conditions) for several months to break dormancy.
    3. Sow the seeds in a well-drained seedbed in the spring.
    4. Keep the seedbed moist.
    5. Germination can be slow and erratic.

Takeaway: Cuttings and layering are generally the most reliable methods for propagating trees for live fencing. Seed propagation can be used, but it requires more patience.

Site Preparation and Planting

Proper site preparation is essential for the success of your live fence.

Soil Testing

• Before planting, it’s a good idea to test your soil to determine its pH and nutrient levels. This will help you choose the right tree species and amend the soil as needed. I use a simple home soil testing kit, but you can also send samples to a professional lab.
• Ideal pH: Most trees prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0-7.0).
• Nutrient deficiencies: Amend the soil with compost, manure, or other organic matter to correct any nutrient deficiencies.

Weed Control

• Remove all weeds and grass from the planting area. This will reduce competition for water and nutrients. I prefer to use manual weeding or mulching rather than herbicides.
• Mulching: Apply a thick layer of mulch (wood chips, straw, or compost) around the planting area to suppress weeds and retain moisture.

Spacing

• The spacing between trees will depend on the species and the desired density of the fence. A general guideline is to space trees 1-3 feet apart. For hawthorn and blackthorn, I recommend closer spacing (1-2 feet) to create a dense barrier. For willow, you can use wider spacing (2-3 feet) if you plan to weave the branches.

Planting Procedure

• Dig a hole that is twice as wide and as deep as the root ball of the tree.
• Loosen the roots of the tree before planting.
• Place the tree in the hole and backfill with soil.
• Water the tree thoroughly.
• Stake the tree if necessary to provide support.

Takeaway: Proper site preparation, including soil testing, weed control, and appropriate spacing, will give your live fence the best possible start.

Training and Weaving Techniques

Once your trees are planted, you’ll need to train and weave them to create a strong and functional fence.

Initial Training

• Pruning: In the first few years, prune the trees to encourage branching and create a dense hedge. I usually prune back the main stem by about one-third to stimulate lateral growth.
• Weaving: As the branches grow, you can begin to weave them together to create a solid barrier. This is particularly effective with willow and hazel.

Weaving Methods

• Simple Weave: This involves weaving branches alternately between adjacent trees. This is a good method for creating a quick and easy fence.
• Wattle Weave: This involves using long, flexible branches (wattles) to weave between upright posts. This is a more traditional method that creates a very strong and durable fence. I’ve used wattle weaving to create livestock enclosures.
  • Procedure:
    1. Drive sturdy posts into the ground at regular intervals (e.g., 2-3 feet apart).
    2. Weave the wattles horizontally between the posts, alternating the direction of each wattle.
    3. Secure the wattles to the posts with twine or wire.
• Pleaching: This involves intertwining the branches of adjacent trees and grafting them together. This creates a very strong and permanent fence. This technique is more advanced and requires some experience with grafting.
  • Procedure:
    1. Select two adjacent trees with branches that are close together.
    2. Remove a strip of bark from the contacting surfaces of the branches.
    3. Bind the branches together tightly with grafting tape.
    4. After several months, the branches should graft together.
    5. Remove the grafting tape.

Adding Wire

• For extra security, you can add wire to your live fence. This is particularly useful for containing livestock. I recommend using galvanized wire or barbed wire, depending on your needs.
• Procedure:
  1. Attach the wire to the trees using staples or wire ties.
  2. Space the wires evenly along the height of the fence.
  3. Tension the wires to prevent sagging.

Takeaway: Training and weaving are essential for creating a strong and functional live fence. Experiment with different weaving methods to find what works best for your species and desired aesthetic.

Maintenance and Long-Term Care

A live fence requires ongoing maintenance to keep it healthy and functional.

Pruning

• Regular pruning is essential to maintain the shape and density of the fence. I usually prune my live fences once or twice a year, depending on the growth rate of the trees.
• Timing: The best time to prune is in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins.
• Technique: Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Prune back overgrown branches to maintain the desired shape.

Coppicing

• Coppicing is a traditional woodland management technique that involves cutting trees back to the base to stimulate new growth. This is particularly useful for hazel and willow.
• Procedure:
  1. Cut the tree back to within a few inches of the ground.
  2. New shoots will emerge from the base of the tree.
  3. These shoots can be used for weaving or other purposes.
• Frequency: Coppice trees every 5-10 years, depending on the species and growth rate.

Pest and Disease Control

• Monitor your live fence for signs of pests or diseases. Take appropriate action to control any problems. I prefer to use organic methods whenever possible.
• Common Pests: Aphids, caterpillars, borers.
• Common Diseases: Fungal diseases, rusts.

Fertilizing

• Fertilize your live fence as needed to promote healthy growth. I recommend using compost or other organic fertilizers.
• Timing: Fertilize in the spring, before new growth begins.

Watering

• Water your live fence regularly, especially during dry periods. Young trees are particularly susceptible to drought stress.

Takeaway: Regular maintenance, including pruning, coppicing, pest and disease control, fertilizing, and watering, will ensure the long-term health and functionality of your live fence.

Tools and Equipment

Here’s a list of the tools and equipment you’ll need for creating and maintaining a live fence:

Essential Tools

• Chainsaw: For cutting larger branches and trees. I recommend a lightweight chainsaw with a 14-16 inch bar for general pruning and coppicing. Stihl and Husqvarna are two reputable brands.
  • Specifications: 40-50cc engine, 14-16 inch bar, chain brake, anti-vibration system.
  • Maintenance: Sharpen the chain regularly, clean the air filter, and check the oil levels.
• Pruning Shears: For cutting smaller branches and twigs. I prefer bypass pruners, which make cleaner cuts than anvil pruners.
  • Specifications: Bypass blades, comfortable grip, durable construction.
  • Maintenance: Sharpen the blades regularly and lubricate the moving parts.
• Loppers: For cutting branches that are too large for pruning shears. I recommend loppers with long handles for extra leverage.
  • Specifications: Long handles, bypass blades, durable construction.
  • Maintenance: Sharpen the blades regularly and lubricate the moving parts.
• Hand Saw: For cutting branches that are too large for loppers but too small for a chainsaw. I recommend a folding saw for portability.
  • Specifications: Aggressive teeth, comfortable grip, folding design.
  • Maintenance: Sharpen the teeth as needed.
• Gloves: To protect your hands from thorns and splinters. I recommend leather gloves with reinforced palms.
  • Specifications: Leather construction, reinforced palms, comfortable fit.
• Eye Protection: To protect your eyes from flying debris. I recommend safety glasses or goggles.
  • Specifications: Impact-resistant lenses, comfortable fit, adjustable straps.
• Measuring Tape: For measuring spacing and cutting branches to the correct length. I recommend a durable measuring tape with a locking mechanism.
  • Specifications: Durable construction, locking mechanism, clear markings.

Optional Tools

• Post Driver: For driving posts into the ground for wattle fences. I recommend a manual post driver for smaller projects.
  • Specifications: Steel construction, comfortable handles, appropriate weight for the job.
• Wire Stretcher: For tensioning wire fences. I recommend a ratchet-style wire stretcher.
  • Specifications: Ratchet mechanism, durable construction, appropriate wire gauge.
• Grafting Knife: For pleaching. I recommend a sharp grafting knife with a comfortable handle.
  • Specifications: Sharp blade, comfortable handle, durable construction.

Table: Tool Maintenance Schedule

Takeaway: Investing in quality tools and equipment will make your live fencing project easier and more enjoyable. Be sure to maintain your tools properly to ensure their longevity and performance.

Safety Considerations

Working with trees and tools can be dangerous. Always follow these safety precautions:

• Wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE): This includes gloves, eye protection, hearing protection (when using a chainsaw), and sturdy footwear.
• Be aware of your surroundings: Watch out for overhead power lines, uneven terrain, and other hazards.
• Use tools correctly: Read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for all tools and equipment.
• Never work alone: Always have someone nearby in case of an emergency.
• Take breaks: Avoid fatigue by taking regular breaks.
• Be aware of the weather: Avoid working in wet or icy conditions.
• Chainsaw Safety:
  • Always wear a chainsaw helmet with face shield and hearing protection.
  • Wear chainsaw chaps or trousers.
  • Use a two-handed grip on the chainsaw.
  • Keep your feet firmly planted.
  • Be aware of kickback.
  • Never cut above shoulder height.
  • Inspect the chainsaw before each use.
• First Aid: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand and know how to use it.

Takeaway: Safety should always be your top priority when working on a live fencing project. Taking the necessary precautions will help prevent accidents and injuries.

Case Studies and Examples

To further illustrate the principles of live wood fencing, let’s look at some real-world examples:

Case Study 1: The Hawthorn Hedge

• Location: Rural England
• Objective: To create a stock-proof barrier for sheep grazing.
• Species: Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna)
• Method: Hardwood cuttings were taken in late fall and planted in a double row, 1 foot apart. The trees were pruned regularly to encourage branching and create a dense hedge. Wire was added to the fence for extra security.
• Results: The hawthorn hedge has been successfully containing sheep for over 20 years. It also provides valuable habitat for birds and other wildlife.
• Metrics: 95% survival rate of cuttings, 100% stock containment.

Case Study 2: The Willow Screen

• Location: Urban Garden, Germany
• Objective: To create a living screen for privacy and noise reduction.
• Species: Willow (Salix viminalis)
• Method: Willow cuttings were planted 2 feet apart. The branches were woven together to create a dense screen. The screen was pruned regularly to maintain its shape and size.
• Results: The willow screen provides excellent privacy and reduces noise from the street. It also adds a touch of natural beauty to the garden.
• Metrics: 80% coverage within 2 years, 10 decibel noise reduction.

Example: The Osage Orange Fence

• Location: Midwestern United States
• Description: Osage Orange was widely used for fencing in the 19th century due to its thorny nature and rot resistance. Many of these fences are still standing today, a testament to the durability of this species.
• Lessons Learned: Osage Orange is an excellent choice for a long-lasting fence, but it can be difficult to propagate and manage.

Takeaway: These case studies and examples demonstrate the versatility and effectiveness of live wood fencing. By learning from the experiences of others, you can increase your chances of success.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even with careful planning and execution, you may encounter some problems when creating a live fence. Here are some common issues and how to address them:

Poor Survival Rate of Cuttings

• Problem: Many of your cuttings fail to root.
• Possible Causes:
  • Cuttings were taken at the wrong time of year.
  • Cuttings were not properly prepared.
  • Rooting medium was too wet or too dry.
  • Cuttings were not protected from the elements.
• Solutions:
  • Take cuttings at the recommended time of year for your species.
  • Use sharp, clean tools to prepare the cuttings.
  • Use a well-drained rooting medium.
  • Keep the rooting medium moist but not waterlogged.
  • Protect the cuttings from direct sunlight and wind.
  • Use rooting hormone to promote root development.

Slow Growth

• Problem: Your trees are growing very slowly.
• Possible Causes:
  • Poor soil conditions.
  • Lack of water or nutrients.
  • Competition from weeds.
  • Incorrect species selection.
• Solutions:
  • Amend the soil with compost or other organic matter.
  • Water the trees regularly, especially during dry periods.
  • Fertilize the trees as needed.
  • Control weeds around the trees.
  • Choose tree species that are well-suited to your climate and soil conditions.

Pest and Disease Problems

• Problem: Your trees are being attacked by pests or diseases.
• Possible Causes:
  • Weakened trees due to stress.
  • Favorable conditions for pests or diseases.
• Solutions:
  • Maintain healthy trees by providing adequate water, nutrients, and sunlight.
  • Identify the pest or disease and take appropriate action.
  • Use organic pest control methods whenever possible.
  • Remove and destroy infected plant material.

Gaps in the Fence

• Problem: There are gaps in the fence due to dead or missing trees.
• Possible Causes:
  • Tree death due to disease, pests, or environmental factors.
  • Poor initial planting.
• Solutions:
  • Replace dead or missing trees with new plants.
  • Weave branches from adjacent trees to fill in the gaps.
  • Add wire or other fencing material to close the gaps.

Takeaway: By understanding the common problems that can arise with live wood fencing, you can take proactive steps to prevent them or address them quickly and effectively.

Conclusion: Embracing the Living Fence

Creating a live fence is a rewarding experience that connects you with nature and provides a sustainable and beautiful boundary for your property. While it requires time, effort, and a bit of patience, the benefits – a durable, eco-friendly, and aesthetically pleasing fence – are well worth the investment. I’ve personally found immense satisfaction in watching my live fences grow and mature, knowing that I’m contributing to a more sustainable and resilient landscape. So, grab your tools, choose your species, and embark on this exciting journey of creating your own living fence.

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