Uses for Ash Wood (Dieback Timber Tips for Firewood & Fencing)

Ash dieback doesn’t have to mean the end of your ash trees; it can be the start of resourceful wood utilization for firewood and fencing!

I’ve spent years working with wood, from felling trees in the dense forests of the Pacific Northwest to meticulously stacking firewood in preparation for harsh winters. I’ve seen firsthand the challenges posed by tree diseases like ash dieback, but also the opportunities for sustainable wood utilization that arise from them. This guide is designed to equip you with the knowledge and skills to transform ash dieback timber into valuable resources for firewood and fencing. I’ll walk you through the entire process, from identifying affected trees to safely splitting and seasoning firewood, and crafting durable fences that stand the test of time.

Understanding Ash Dieback and Its Implications

Ash dieback, caused by the fungus Hymenoscyphus fraxineus, is a devastating disease affecting ash trees (Fraxinus) across Europe and increasingly in North America. It’s crucial to understand the disease’s progression and its impact on the wood’s properties before embarking on any utilization project.

Identifying Ash Dieback

• Symptoms: Look for wilting leaves, dead branches in the crown (often starting at the top), diamond-shaped lesions on the trunk, and the presence of small, white, cup-shaped fruiting bodies of the fungus on fallen leaves.
• Progression: The disease weakens the tree over several years, eventually leading to its death. However, the rate of decline varies depending on the tree’s genetics, environmental conditions, and the severity of the infection.
• Impact on Wood: Ash dieback can affect the wood’s moisture content, density, and structural integrity. Severely affected trees may exhibit increased brittleness and a higher susceptibility to rot.

Key Concepts: Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood

Understanding the difference between green and seasoned wood is fundamental to successful firewood and fencing projects.

• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content (often 50% or higher). Green wood is heavier, harder to split, and prone to warping and cracking as it dries. Burning green wood produces less heat and more smoke.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to a lower moisture content (typically 20% or less for firewood). Seasoned wood is lighter, easier to split, burns cleaner and hotter, and is more stable for construction purposes.

Safety First: Essential Precautions When Working with Ash Dieback Timber

Safety is paramount when dealing with any timber, but especially with ash dieback-affected trees, which can be unpredictable and brittle.

1. Felling the Tree (If Necessary)

• Assessment: Before felling, assess the tree’s lean, branch structure, and surrounding obstacles (power lines, buildings, etc.).
• Felling Techniques: Use appropriate felling techniques based on the tree’s size and lean. Common techniques include the conventional notch and back cut, and the Humboldt notch for trees with a significant lean.
  • Conventional Notch: Cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
  • Back Cut: Make a back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the base of the notch. Leave a hinge of wood to control the fall.
  • Humboldt Notch: Similar to the conventional notch, but the top cut is angled downwards, and the bottom cut is horizontal. This helps to prevent the tree from kicking back.
• Tool Specifications: Use a chainsaw with an appropriate bar length for the tree’s diameter. A 16-20 inch bar is generally suitable for most ash trees. I personally prefer Stihl or Husqvarna chainsaws for their reliability and power. A good choice is the Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss or the Husqvarna 455 Rancher.
• Case Study: I once had to fell a large ash tree leaning heavily towards a neighbor’s fence. Using a combination of wedges and a pulling cable attached to my truck, I was able to safely direct the fall away from the fence. The key was to constantly monitor the tree’s movement and adjust the tension on the cable as needed.

2. Bucking the Logs

Bucking refers to cutting the felled tree into manageable lengths for splitting.

• Length Considerations: Determine the optimal length for your firewood based on the size of your wood stove or fireplace. A common length is 16 inches, but this can vary.
• Cutting Techniques: Use a chainsaw to cut the logs into the desired lengths. Support the log properly to prevent pinching the saw blade. A sawhorse is invaluable for this task.
• Measurements: Use a measuring stick or tape measure to ensure consistent lengths. Inconsistent lengths can make stacking and burning more difficult.
• Tool Specifications: A chainsaw with a shorter bar (14-16 inches) is often easier to maneuver for bucking.

3. Splitting the Firewood

Splitting reduces the size of the logs, accelerating the drying process and making them easier to handle and burn.

• Splitting Methods:
  • Manual Splitting: Using an axe or maul. This is a good option for smaller quantities of wood or for those seeking a physical workout.
    • Axe Selection: A splitting axe with a heavy head (6-8 lbs) is ideal for splitting larger logs. A maul, which is a combination of an axe and a sledgehammer, is even more effective for tough wood.
    • Technique: Position the log on a sturdy chopping block. Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and swing the axe with controlled force, aiming for the center of the log.
  • Hydraulic Log Splitter: A powered machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split logs. This is a faster and less strenuous option for larger quantities of wood.
    • Types: Hydraulic log splitters are available in various sizes and configurations, including electric, gas-powered, and tractor-mounted models.
    • Specifications: Choose a log splitter with sufficient tonnage for the type of wood you’ll be splitting. A 20-25 ton splitter is generally adequate for most firewood needs. I’ve found that a hydraulic splitter can increase my firewood production by at least 50% compared to manual splitting.
• Splitting Strategy: Split the logs into pieces that are approximately 4-6 inches in diameter. Smaller pieces dry faster and burn more efficiently.
• Dealing with Knots: Knots can be challenging to split. Try splitting the log from a different angle or using a splitting wedge and sledgehammer.

4. Stacking and Seasoning the Firewood

Proper stacking and seasoning are crucial for reducing the moisture content of the wood and making it suitable for burning.

• Stacking Location: Choose a sunny, well-ventilated location for your woodpile. Avoid stacking wood directly on the ground, as this can promote rot.
• Stacking Methods:
  • Traditional Rows: Stack the wood in rows, leaving gaps between the rows for air circulation.
  • Circular Stacks: Create a circular stack with the wood angled inwards. This method is aesthetically pleasing but may not provide as much air circulation as traditional rows.
  • Pallet Stacking: Place pallets on the ground and stack the wood on top of them. This provides excellent air circulation and keeps the wood off the ground.
• Stacking Height: Limit the height of the stack to prevent it from collapsing. A height of 4-6 feet is generally safe.
• Covering the Woodpile: Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp or sheet of metal to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open to allow for air circulation.
• Seasoning Time: Allow the wood to season for at least 6-12 months, or longer for denser hardwoods like oak. The ideal moisture content for firewood is 20% or less.
• Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood before burning it. This will ensure that you’re burning seasoned wood and getting the most heat from your firewood. I use a simple pin-type moisture meter, which is accurate and easy to use.
• Case Study: I experimented with different stacking methods and found that pallet stacking, combined with a tarp covering only the top of the pile, resulted in the fastest drying times. The pallets provided excellent air circulation from below, while the tarp protected the wood from rain.

5. Burning the Firewood

• Wood Stove/Fireplace Maintenance: Ensure that your wood stove or fireplace is properly maintained and cleaned before burning firewood.
• Starting a Fire: Use kindling and small pieces of wood to start the fire. Gradually add larger pieces of wood as the fire builds.
• Airflow: Adjust the airflow to control the rate of combustion. More airflow will result in a hotter fire, while less airflow will result in a slower, more controlled burn.
• Safety: Never leave a fire unattended. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby and ensure that your chimney is properly cleaned to prevent chimney fires.

Utilizing Ash Dieback for Fencing: A Durable and Sustainable Solution

Ash wood, even when affected by dieback, can be a surprisingly durable and attractive material for fencing. While heavily decayed wood isn’t suitable, timber from trees in the early stages of dieback can be perfectly viable.

1. Selecting Suitable Timber

• Inspection: Carefully inspect the felled ash trees for signs of advanced decay. Avoid using wood that is soft, spongy, or excessively cracked.
• Density: Look for wood that is still dense and solid. The presence of some staining or discoloration is acceptable, but the wood should not be structurally compromised.
• Heartwood vs. Sapwood: Heartwood (the inner core of the tree) is generally more durable and resistant to decay than sapwood (the outer layer). Try to utilize as much heartwood as possible for your fencing project.

2. Preparing the Wood

• Debarking: Remove the bark from the logs. Bark can trap moisture and promote decay. A drawknife or a debarking spud can be used for this task.
• Cutting to Size: Cut the logs into the desired lengths for fence posts, rails, and other components.
• Shaping: Shape the wood as needed using a chainsaw, axe, or other woodworking tools.
• Preservation (Optional): Consider treating the wood with a wood preservative to extend its lifespan. Options include copper naphthenate, borate-based preservatives, and creosote (though creosote is restricted in some areas due to environmental concerns). I generally prefer using borate-based preservatives as they are less toxic and effective against both insects and fungi.

3. Fence Design and Construction

• Types of Fences:
  • Post and Rail Fence: A simple and traditional fence consisting of vertical posts and horizontal rails.
  • Picket Fence: A decorative fence with vertical pickets attached to horizontal rails.
  • Woven Fence: A rustic fence made by weaving branches or saplings between vertical posts.
• Post Installation:
  • Digging Holes: Dig holes for the fence posts using a post hole digger or auger. The depth of the holes should be at least 1/3 of the post’s height.
  • Setting the Posts: Place the posts in the holes and backfill with concrete or compacted soil. Ensure that the posts are plumb (perfectly vertical).
• Rail Installation:
  • Attaching Rails: Attach the rails to the posts using screws, nails, or mortise and tenon joints.
  • Spacing: Space the rails evenly between the posts.
• Picket Installation (for Picket Fences):
  • Attaching Pickets: Attach the pickets to the rails using nails or screws.
  • Spacing: Space the pickets evenly between the rails.
• Woven Fence Construction:
  • Weaving Branches: Weave branches or saplings between the vertical posts, overlapping them to create a solid barrier.
  • Securing Ends: Secure the ends of the branches to the posts using wire or twine.
• Tool Specifications: A post hole digger, level, measuring tape, saw, drill, and fasteners (screws, nails, etc.) are essential tools for fence construction.

4. Considerations for Ash Dieback Timber Fences

• Increased Monitoring: Because the wood might be slightly less durable than healthy ash, inspect the fence regularly for signs of decay or insect infestation.
• Strategic Placement: Consider using ash dieback timber for sections of the fence that are less critical for structural integrity, such as decorative panels or non-load-bearing sections.
• Regular Maintenance: Apply a fresh coat of wood preservative every few years to protect the wood from the elements.

Strategic Advantages of Using Ash Dieback Timber

• Sustainability: Utilizing ash dieback timber helps to reduce waste and promote sustainable forestry practices.
• Cost Savings: Ash dieback timber may be available at a lower cost than healthy timber.
• Unique Aesthetics: The natural variations in color and texture of ash dieback timber can add character and visual appeal to your projects.

Detailed Tool Specifications & Machinery Settings

For those looking to get precise, here are some specific tool and machinery recommendations based on my experience:

• Chainsaws:
  • Felling: Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss (18-20 inch bar), Husqvarna 455 Rancher (18-20 inch bar)
  • Bucking: Stihl MS 170 (14-16 inch bar), Husqvarna 135 (14-16 inch bar)
• Axes:
  • Splitting Axe: Gränsfors Bruks Splitting Axe (6.6 lbs), Fiskars X27 Super Splitting Axe (6 lbs)
  • Maul: Council Tool 8 lb Splitting Maul
• Log Splitters:
  • Electric: Champion Power Equipment 25-Ton Electric Log Splitter
  • Gas-Powered: Champion Power Equipment 25-Ton Gas Log Splitter
  • Tractor-Mounted: CountyLine 25-Ton Tractor Log Splitter
• Moisture Meter:
  • Pin-Type: Dr. Meter Digital Wood Moisture Meter
  • Pinless: Wagner Meters MMC220 Wood Moisture Meter
• Debarking Tools:
  • Drawknife: 13-inch Straight Drawknife
  • Debarking Spud: Timber Tuff TMB-16S Debarking Spud

For hydraulic log splitters, pay attention to the cycle time (the time it takes for the ram to extend and retract). A faster cycle time will increase your productivity. Also, consider the maximum log length and diameter that the splitter can handle.

Cost Analysis and Material Specifications

Let’s break down some potential costs and material specifications:

• Firewood:
  • Cost of Felling: (If applicable) $50-$150 per tree (if hiring a professional).
  • Chainsaw Fuel & Oil: $10-$20 per day.
  • Log Splitter Rental: $50-$100 per day (if renting).
  • Average cost per cord of firewood: $150-$400 (depending on location and wood type).
• Fencing:
  • Wood Preservative: $20-$50 per gallon.
  • Fasteners (Screws, Nails): $20-$50 per project.
  • Concrete (for Post Setting): $5-$10 per bag.
  • Average cost per foot of fencing: $10-$30 (depending on design and materials).
• Moisture Content Targets:
  • Firewood: 20% or less.
  • Fencing: Air-dried to 15-20% before installation (if possible).

Timing Estimates

• Firewood Seasoning: 6-12 months (depending on wood type and climate).
• Fence Construction: 1-3 days per 100 feet of fencing (depending on design and skill level).

Skill Levels Required

• Felling Trees: Requires professional training and experience.
• Bucking & Splitting Firewood: Suitable for beginners with proper safety precautions.
• Fence Construction: Basic carpentry skills are helpful, but many fence designs can be completed by beginners.

Original Case Studies

Case Study 1: Maximizing Firewood Yield from a Severely Affected Ash Tree

I encountered an ash tree that was heavily affected by dieback, with significant decay in the upper branches. Instead of discarding the entire tree, I carefully assessed the remaining sound wood in the trunk and lower branches. I selectively bucked the sound sections into firewood lengths, discarding the decayed portions. By being selective, I was able to salvage approximately 50% of the tree for firewood, which would have otherwise been lost.

Case Study 2: Building a Durable Post and Rail Fence with Ash Dieback Timber

I used ash dieback timber to build a post and rail fence around my garden. I carefully selected posts that were still solid and free from advanced decay. I treated the posts with a borate-based wood preservative and set them in concrete. The rails were also made from ash dieback timber and attached to the posts with screws. After two years, the fence is still standing strong and shows no signs of decay. The key was to use good quality timber in early stages of dieback.

Strategic Insights Alongside Tactical Instructions

Don’t just follow the steps blindly. Think strategically about how you can optimize the process for your specific situation.

• Batch Processing: Group similar tasks together to improve efficiency. For example, fell all the trees at once, then buck all the logs, then split all the firewood.
• Tool Optimization: Invest in the right tools for the job. A good quality axe or log splitter can save you time and effort.
• Ergonomics: Pay attention to your body mechanics to avoid injuries. Use proper lifting techniques and take breaks when needed.
• Weather Considerations: Plan your work around the weather. Avoid felling trees in high winds or splitting firewood in the rain.
• Community Collaboration: Consider partnering with neighbors or other landowners to share equipment and labor.

Practical Next Steps

Ready to get started? Here’s what I recommend:

1. Identify Ash Dieback Trees: Survey your property or local area for ash trees showing signs of dieback.
2. Assess Timber Quality: Evaluate the quality of the wood and determine its suitability for firewood or fencing.
3. Gather Tools and Equipment: Make sure you have the necessary tools and equipment, including a chainsaw, axe, log splitter (if desired), and safety gear.
4. Plan Your Project: Develop a detailed plan for your firewood or fencing project, including timelines, materials, and budget.
5. Start Small: Begin with a small-scale project to gain experience and build confidence.
6. Prioritize Safety: Always prioritize safety when working with timber. Wear appropriate PPE and follow safe operating procedures.

Conclusion

Turning ash dieback timber into firewood and fencing is a rewarding and sustainable way to utilize a resource that might otherwise be wasted. By following these steps and applying the knowledge I’ve shared, you can transform affected trees into valuable products that will benefit you and your community. Remember, safety, planning, and perseverance are key to success. So get out there, put your skills to the test, and enjoy the satisfaction of working with wood! Good luck, and stay safe out there.

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