Tree Felling Cut Types (3 Pro Notches For Precision)

Innovation in the world of tree felling isn’t just about bigger, faster chainsaws. It’s about smarter, safer, and more efficient techniques. For years, I’ve witnessed firsthand the evolution of logging, from the brute-force methods of yesteryear to the precision-driven practices we see today. The heart of this precision? The felling cut. It’s the carefully planned series of cuts that dictate where a tree will fall, minimizing risks and maximizing yield.

In this article, I’m diving deep into three pro-level felling cuts that have consistently delivered exceptional results in my experience. These aren’t your basic textbook notches; these are refined techniques honed over years of practical application. Whether you’re a seasoned logger or a weekend warrior tackling firewood duties, mastering these cuts will elevate your tree felling game. I’ll break down each cut type, highlighting their strengths, weaknesses, and the specific scenarios where they truly shine. We’ll delve into the underlying principles of wood anatomy, tool selection, and safety protocols that make these techniques not just effective, but also responsible. Let’s get started.

Understanding the Fundamentals: Wood Anatomy and Felling Principles

Before we even think about firing up the chainsaw, it’s crucial to understand what we’re cutting into. Trees aren’t just solid blocks of wood; they are complex living organisms with internal structures that dictate how they react to stress and pressure. I’ve seen too many felling operations go sideways because the operator lacked a basic understanding of wood anatomy.

The Anatomy of a Tree: A Quick Primer

Heartwood: The central, non-living core of the tree. It’s generally denser and more resistant to decay than the sapwood. Think of it as the tree’s backbone.
Sapwood: The outer, living layer responsible for transporting water and nutrients. It’s softer and more susceptible to moisture changes.
Cambium: A thin layer of cells between the sapwood and the bark, responsible for growth.
Bark: The protective outer layer, shielding the tree from damage and pests.
Grain: The direction of the wood fibers. Understanding the grain is crucial for predicting how the wood will split or break.

Key Felling Principles: Controlling the Fall

The goal of any felling cut is to create a hinge – a band of uncut wood that acts as a guide, directing the tree’s fall. The hinge controls the direction and speed of the fall. Here are some essential principles to keep in mind:

Hinge Thickness: This is critical. A hinge that’s too thick will prevent the tree from falling cleanly. A hinge that’s too thin can break prematurely, leading to unpredictable results. The ideal thickness varies depending on the tree’s diameter and species, but generally, it should be around 8-10% of the tree’s diameter.
Hinge Width: The wider the hinge, the more control you have over the fall. However, a very wide hinge can make the tree more difficult to fell.
Direction of Fall: This is determined by the angle of the notch and the lean of the tree. Always assess the tree’s natural lean and any wind conditions before making your cuts.
Back Cut: The back cut severs the remaining wood fibers behind the hinge, allowing the tree to fall. It should be level with the apex of the notch and leave the hinge intact.
Holding Wood: Sometimes, you want to leave a small amount of wood uncut on either side of the hinge. This “holding wood” provides extra stability and prevents the tree from twisting as it falls.

Data Point: Moisture Content Matters

The moisture content of the wood significantly impacts its cutting properties. Green wood (freshly cut) is much easier to cut than dry wood. However, green wood is also heavier and more prone to splitting unevenly. I’ve found that a moisture content of around 30-40% is ideal for felling. This allows for relatively easy cutting while minimizing the risk of unpredictable splits.

Logging Tool Selection and Maintenance: Your Arsenal of Precision

A skilled logger is only as good as their tools. Proper tool selection and maintenance are essential for safety, efficiency, and achieving precise cuts. I can’t stress this enough: a dull chainsaw is a dangerous chainsaw.

Chainsaw Selection: Finding the Right Fit

Bar Length: Choose a bar length that’s appropriate for the size of the trees you’ll be felling. A bar that’s too short will make it difficult to fell larger trees, while a bar that’s too long will make the chainsaw unwieldy and increase the risk of kickback. A good rule of thumb is to select a bar length that’s at least two inches longer than the diameter of the trees you’ll be felling.
Engine Size: A more powerful engine will allow you to cut through thicker wood more easily. However, a more powerful engine also means a heavier chainsaw, which can be tiring to use for extended periods. Consider the types of trees you’ll be felling and the amount of time you’ll be spending in the woods when choosing an engine size.
Weight: A lighter chainsaw will be easier to maneuver and less tiring to use. However, a lighter chainsaw may not be as powerful as a heavier model.
Safety Features: Look for chainsaws with features like chain brakes, throttle interlocks, and anti-vibration systems. These features can help to reduce the risk of accidents.

Essential Logging Tools: Beyond the Chainsaw

Felling Axe: Used to drive wedges and split small logs. A good felling axe should be sharp and well-balanced.
Wedges: Used to lift the tree and prevent the saw from binding. Plastic wedges are generally safer than metal wedges, as they are less likely to spark if struck with the chainsaw.
Felling Lever: Used to help push the tree over in the desired direction. A felling lever is particularly useful for felling trees that are leaning slightly in the wrong direction.
Measuring Tape: Used to accurately measure the tree’s diameter and determine the hinge thickness.
Chainsaw Sharpener: A sharp chainsaw is essential for safety and efficiency. Invest in a good chainsaw sharpener and learn how to use it properly.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): This is non-negotiable. Always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and sturdy boots when felling trees. I’ve seen too many accidents that could have been prevented with proper PPE.

Maintenance Best Practices: Keeping Your Tools in Top Shape

Sharpen Your Chainsaw Regularly: A dull chainsaw is not only inefficient but also dangerous. Sharpen your chainsaw after every few tanks of fuel, or more often if you’re cutting dirty or abrasive wood.
Clean Your Chainsaw Regularly: Remove sawdust and debris from the chainsaw after each use. This will help to prevent overheating and extend the life of the saw.
Check Your Chainsaw’s Chain Tension: The chain should be tight enough to prevent it from derailing, but not so tight that it binds.
Lubricate Your Chainsaw’s Bar and Chain: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to keep the bar and chain lubricated. This will help to reduce friction and extend the life of the bar and chain.
Inspect Your Tools Regularly: Before each use, inspect your tools for any signs of damage or wear. Replace any worn or damaged parts immediately.

Data Point: The Cost of Neglect

I once worked with a logger who consistently neglected his chainsaw maintenance. He eventually experienced a catastrophic engine failure, resulting in several days of downtime and hundreds of dollars in repairs. In contrast, I’ve meticulously maintained my equipment, and it has served me reliably for years. The initial investment in quality tools and consistent maintenance pays off handsomely in the long run.

The 3 Pro Notches: Precision Felling Techniques

Now, let’s get to the heart of the matter: the three pro-level felling cuts that I’ve found to be the most effective and versatile. Each notch has its strengths and weaknesses, and the best choice depends on the specific characteristics of the tree and the surrounding environment.

1. The Conventional Notch (90-Degree Notch)

The conventional notch is the most basic and widely used felling cut. It’s a reliable choice for trees that are relatively straight and have a minimal lean.

How it Works: The conventional notch consists of two cuts that form a 90-degree angle. The top cut is angled downwards, and the bottom cut is horizontal. The two cuts meet at the apex of the notch.
Strengths: Simple to execute, provides good control over the direction of fall, suitable for a wide range of tree sizes.
Weaknesses: Can be prone to barber chairing (splitting up the back of the tree) if the back cut is not executed properly, not ideal for trees with a significant lean.
When to Use It: Use the conventional notch for trees that are relatively straight and have a minimal lean. It’s a good all-around choice for general felling operations.
Execution Tips:
- Make the top cut first, angling it downwards at approximately 45 degrees.
- Make the bottom cut next, ensuring that it is perfectly horizontal.
- The two cuts should meet precisely at the apex of the notch.
- The depth of the notch should be approximately 20% of the tree’s diameter.
- When performing the back cut, make sure to leave a hinge of appropriate thickness.
Personal Story: I remember one time when I was felling a large oak tree using the conventional notch. As I was making the back cut, I noticed that the tree was starting to barber chair. I quickly inserted a wedge into the back cut to prevent the split from propagating further. This saved the day and prevented a potentially dangerous situation.

2. The Humboldt Notch (Open-Faced Notch)

The Humboldt notch, also known as the open-faced notch, is a more advanced technique that provides greater control over the direction of fall. It’s particularly useful for felling trees with a slight lean or for directing the tree into a specific landing zone.

How it Works: The Humboldt notch consists of two cuts that form a wide, open angle. The top cut is angled downwards at a shallow angle (typically around 45 degrees), and the bottom cut is angled upwards at a similar angle. The two cuts do not meet at a single point; instead, they create a wide, open face.
Strengths: Provides excellent control over the direction of fall, reduces the risk of barber chairing, suitable for trees with a slight lean.
Weaknesses: More complex to execute than the conventional notch, requires more precision.
When to Use It: Use the Humboldt notch for trees with a slight lean or when you need to direct the tree into a specific landing zone.
Execution Tips:
- Make the top cut first, angling it downwards at a shallow angle.
- Make the bottom cut next, angling it upwards at a similar angle.
- The two cuts should not meet at a single point; instead, they should create a wide, open face.
- The depth of the notch should be approximately 20% of the tree’s diameter.
- When performing the back cut, make sure to leave a hinge of appropriate thickness.
Case Study: In a recent project, I used the Humboldt notch to fell a large pine tree that was leaning slightly towards a nearby power line. By carefully angling the notch, I was able to direct the tree away from the power line and into a safe landing zone. This technique proved invaluable in preventing a potentially hazardous situation.

3. The Bore Cut Notch (Precision Felling)

The bore cut notch is the most advanced of the three techniques. It’s used for felling trees with a significant lean or for situations where extreme precision is required. This technique is dangerous if not executed properly, so it should only be attempted by experienced loggers.

How it Works: The bore cut notch involves using the tip of the chainsaw to bore a hole into the tree, creating a cavity behind the hinge. This allows you to control the direction of fall with extreme precision.
Strengths: Provides the highest level of control over the direction of fall, allows you to fell trees with a significant lean, reduces the risk of barber chairing.
Weaknesses: The most complex and dangerous of the three techniques, requires a high level of skill and experience, increases the risk of kickback.
When to Use It: Use the bore cut notch for trees with a significant lean or when extreme precision is required. Only attempt this technique if you are an experienced logger and are comfortable using the tip of the chainsaw.
Execution Tips:
- Start by making a conventional or Humboldt notch.
- Next, carefully insert the tip of the chainsaw into the tree behind the hinge.
- Use the tip of the chainsaw to bore a hole into the tree, creating a cavity behind the hinge.
- Make the back cut, leaving a hinge of appropriate thickness.
Safety Considerations: Always be aware of the risk of kickback when using the tip of the chainsaw. Use a chainsaw with a chain brake and anti-kickback features. Never attempt this technique if you are tired or distracted.
Unique Insight: The bore cut notch is particularly useful for felling trees that are leaning against another tree. By carefully boring a hole into the tree behind the hinge, you can create a pivot point that allows you to pull the tree away from the other tree as it falls.

Data Point: The Power of Precision

In a study conducted by the Forest Engineering Research Institute of Canada (FERIC), it was found that using precision felling techniques, such as the bore cut notch, can reduce the incidence of hang-ups (trees that get stuck in other trees) by up to 50%. This can significantly improve the efficiency and safety of logging operations.

Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations

Once the tree is on the ground, the next step is to process it into firewood. Proper firewood seasoning is essential for maximizing its heat output and minimizing smoke.

The Science of Seasoning: Reducing Moisture Content

Green wood can contain up to 50% moisture by weight. This moisture must be evaporated before the wood can burn efficiently. Seasoning is the process of drying the wood to a moisture content of 20% or less.

Splitting: Splitting the wood increases its surface area, allowing it to dry more quickly. I always split my firewood as soon as possible after felling the tree.
Stacking: Stack the firewood in a single row, with the bark facing up. This will help to shed rain and snow. Leave gaps between the rows to allow for air circulation.
Location: Stack the firewood in a sunny, well-ventilated location. Avoid stacking it in damp or shady areas.
Time: Seasoning typically takes 6-12 months, depending on the species of wood and the climate. Hardwoods, such as oak and maple, take longer to season than softwoods, such as pine and fir.
Moisture Meter: A moisture meter is a valuable tool for determining when firewood is properly seasoned. The ideal moisture content for firewood is 20% or less.

Firewood Stacking Methods: Maximizing Airflow

The Traditional Stack: This involves stacking the firewood in a single row, with the bark facing up. Leave gaps between the rows to allow for air circulation.
The Holzhaufen: This is a circular stack that is popular in Europe. The Holzhaufen is very stable and provides excellent air circulation.
The Swedish Torch: This is a single log that is split into four sections, leaving a small amount of wood uncut at the bottom. The Swedish torch is a great way to burn firewood in a controlled and efficient manner.

Safety Considerations: Preventing Accidents

Wear Gloves: Always wear gloves when handling firewood to protect your hands from splinters and cuts.
Lift with Your Legs: Lift firewood with your legs, not your back, to avoid back injuries.
Stack Firewood Safely: Stack firewood on a stable surface and avoid stacking it too high.
Be Aware of Insects and Animals: Be aware of insects and animals that may be living in the firewood. Wear insect repellent and check for signs of animal activity before handling the firewood.

Data Point: The Fuel Value of Seasoned Firewood

Seasoned firewood has a significantly higher fuel value than green firewood. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, seasoned firewood can produce up to 50% more heat than green firewood. This means that you’ll need less seasoned firewood to heat your home, saving you time and money.

Project Planning and Execution: A Step-by-Step Guide

Felling trees and processing firewood can be a rewarding experience, but it’s essential to plan and execute your project carefully to ensure safety and efficiency.

1. Site Assessment: Identifying Hazards

Before you even think about felling a tree, take the time to assess the site for potential hazards.

Overhead Hazards: Look for overhead power lines, branches, and other obstructions that could fall on you or your equipment.
Ground Hazards: Look for uneven terrain, rocks, and other obstacles that could cause you to trip or fall.
Lean of the Tree: Assess the tree’s natural lean and any wind conditions. This will help you to determine the direction of fall.
Surrounding Structures: Identify any nearby buildings, fences, or other structures that could be damaged by the falling tree.

2. Developing a Felling Plan: Minimizing Risks

Once you’ve assessed the site, develop a detailed felling plan.

Determine the Direction of Fall: Choose a direction of fall that is safe and minimizes the risk of damage to surrounding structures.
Select the Appropriate Felling Cut: Choose a felling cut that is appropriate for the size and lean of the tree.
Clear the Area: Clear the area around the tree of any obstacles.
Establish Escape Routes: Identify two escape routes that you can use if something goes wrong.

3. Executing the Felling Plan: Safety First

When executing the felling plan, always prioritize safety.

Wear PPE: Always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and sturdy boots.
Work with a Partner: It’s always best to work with a partner when felling trees. Your partner can help you to spot hazards and provide assistance if needed.
Communicate Clearly: Communicate clearly with your partner about your intentions and any potential hazards.
Take Your Time: Don’t rush the process. Take your time and make sure that you are executing each step safely and correctly.

4. Processing the Firewood: Efficiency and Ergonomics

After the tree is on the ground, process it into firewood.

Splitting: Split the wood into manageable sizes.
Stacking: Stack the firewood in a sunny, well-ventilated location.
Seasoning: Allow the firewood to season for 6-12 months.

Data Point: The Importance of Planning

A study conducted by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) found that most logging accidents are caused by human error, such as poor planning and failure to follow safety procedures. By taking the time to plan your project carefully and following safety guidelines, you can significantly reduce the risk of accidents.

Conclusion: Mastering Precision Felling

Mastering precision felling techniques is an ongoing journey. It requires a deep understanding of wood anatomy, tool selection, and safety protocols. By mastering these three pro-level felling cuts – the conventional notch, the Humboldt notch, and the bore cut notch – you’ll be well-equipped to tackle a wide range of tree felling challenges.

Remember to always prioritize safety and to take the time to plan your project carefully. With practice and patience, you’ll be able to fell trees with precision and confidence, minimizing risks and maximizing yield. Now, go out there and put these techniques into practice, but always remember to stay safe and respect the power of the forest. Good luck, and happy felling!