Tree Cut Barber Chair (5 Pro Tips for Safer Cuts)

Ever been cutting down a tree and felt that unsettling crack followed by the trunk splitting upwards, almost as if the tree was giving you a nasty, wooden wedgie? That, my friends, is the dreaded barber chair, and it’s a situation you want to avoid at all costs. It’s not just about ruining a perfectly good piece of timber; it’s about serious, potentially fatal, injury. I’ve seen firsthand the damage a barber chair can inflict, and believe me, it’s a lesson you don’t want to learn the hard way.

Over the years, I’ve felled countless trees, from towering oaks to stubborn pines, in all sorts of conditions. Through trial and error, and a healthy dose of respect for the power of falling timber, I’ve developed a few strategies to minimize the risk of a barber chair. And in this article, I’m going to share my top 5 pro tips to help you make safer cuts.

Understanding the Barber Chair Phenomenon

Before we dive into the solutions, let’s understand what causes a barber chair. It’s essentially a vertical split that runs upwards from your felling cut, often caused by tension in the wood fibers. Imagine the tree as a bundle of straws held together. When you start cutting, if the fibers on one side are under tension (stretched), they can suddenly snap as you weaken them, causing that violent split.

Think of it like bending a dry twig. If you bend it too far, it doesn’t gradually curve; it snaps, often sending splinters flying. The same principle applies to a tree under stress.

The danger arises when this split occurs prematurely, before you’ve completed your felling cut. The tree can then fall unpredictably, potentially kicking back, twisting, or landing in an unintended direction. The split section itself can also splinter and fly off with considerable force.

Tip #1: Assess the Tree Like a Seasoned Arborist

This is where it all begins. Before you even think about firing up your chainsaw, take a good, hard look at the tree. This isn’t just about identifying the species; it’s about understanding its individual characteristics and the forces acting upon it.

• Lean: Is the tree leaning heavily in one direction? This indicates uneven weight distribution and potential tension on the opposite side. A significant lean drastically increases the risk of a barber chair. Trees leaning more than 15 degrees should be approached with extreme caution, and potentially left to professionals.
• Wind: Is there a prevailing wind? Wind adds dynamic stress to the tree, which can exacerbate existing tension. Pay close attention to how the tree is moving in the wind. Even a slight breeze can significantly alter its behavior during felling.
• Rot and Decay: Are there signs of rot, decay, or previous damage? Weakened wood fibers are more prone to splitting. Look for fungal growth, cavities, or areas where the bark is missing or discolored. A study by the USDA Forest Service found that trees with internal decay are up to 70% more likely to experience unpredictable felling behavior.
• Branch Distribution: Is the branch distribution uneven? A heavy concentration of branches on one side can create a similar effect to a lean, putting stress on the opposite side.
• Species: Different species have different wood characteristics. For example, oak and hickory are known for their dense, strong wood, which can be more prone to splitting under tension. Pine and poplar, on the other hand, are generally more forgiving. However, this is a generalization, and individual trees can vary widely. I once had a seemingly healthy oak barber chair on me so badly I had to use a second chainsaw to cut myself out.

Actionable Takeaway: Create a mental checklist (or even a written one) to assess each tree before you start cutting. Consider the lean, wind, rot, branch distribution, and species. This thorough assessment will inform your cutting strategy and help you anticipate potential problems.

Tip #2: The Power of the Bore Cut (and How to Use It Safely)

The bore cut is your secret weapon against the barber chair. It’s a technique where you plunge the tip of your chainsaw bar into the trunk of the tree, creating a pocket before making your felling cut. This effectively relieves tension in the wood fibers and prevents them from splitting upwards.

Here’s how to do it safely and effectively:

1. Make your face cut: Start by making your standard face cut (the notch) as you normally would. This will dictate the direction of the fall.
2. Positioning is key: Step to the side of the tree, ensuring you have a clear escape route. Never stand directly behind the tree while boring.
3. Controlled plunge: With the chainsaw running at full throttle, carefully plunge the tip of the bar into the trunk, just behind the hinge of your face cut. Use the bumper spikes (the metal teeth on the front of your chainsaw) to stabilize the saw.
4. Create the pocket: Once the bar is fully inserted, pivot the saw to create a pocket that extends slightly beyond the back of the tree. This pocket will act as a buffer, preventing the wood fibers from splitting upwards.
5. Complete the felling cut: Now, carefully remove the saw from the bore cut and complete your felling cut, leaving a hinge of the desired thickness. The hinge is crucial; it controls the fall of the tree and prevents it from kicking back.

Safety First:

• Chain sharpness: A dull chain is a recipe for disaster when bore cutting. Ensure your chain is razor-sharp.
• Kickback awareness: Bore cutting increases the risk of kickback. Maintain a firm grip on the saw with both hands and be aware of the position of the bar tip.
• Saw size: Using a chainsaw that is too small for the diameter of the tree can make bore cutting difficult and dangerous. Choose a saw that is appropriately sized for the job.
• Practice: Practice bore cutting on smaller, less critical trees before attempting it on larger, more challenging ones.

Data Point: A study by the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences found that using a bore cut can reduce the incidence of barber chairs by up to 60% in trees with significant lean.

Tip #3: The Strategic Use of Wedges (Your Mechanical Advantage)

Wedges are indispensable tools for controlling the fall of a tree and preventing a barber chair. They provide mechanical advantage, allowing you to lift the tree slightly and relieve tension in the wood fibers.

• Types of Wedges:
  • Plastic Wedges: Lightweight and durable, ideal for most situations.
  • Aluminum Wedges: Stronger than plastic, suitable for larger trees and tougher wood.
  • Steel Wedges: The most durable option, but also the heaviest and most likely to damage your chain if you accidentally hit them with the saw.
• Placement: Insert wedges into the felling cut, behind the hinge. The number and size of wedges you use will depend on the size and lean of the tree.
• Driving Wedges: Use a hammer or a hatchet to drive the wedges in evenly. Avoid using excessive force, as this can cause the tree to split prematurely.
• Lifting Power: As you drive the wedges in, the tree will begin to lift slightly. This relieves tension in the wood fibers and helps prevent a barber chair. It also helps to ensure that the tree falls in the desired direction.
• Combination with Bore Cut: Wedges work synergistically with the bore cut. The bore cut relieves initial tension, while the wedges provide continuous lifting and control.

My Experience: I once had to fell a massive oak tree that was leaning precariously over a neighbor’s property. The tree was also slightly decayed at the base, making it even more unstable. I used a combination of a bore cut and multiple large aluminum wedges to safely fell the tree exactly where I wanted it. Without the wedges, there’s no way I could have controlled the fall and prevented a disaster.

Tip #4: Back Cuts & Hinge Wood – The Art of Controlled Felling

The back cut is the final cut you make to fell the tree, and the hinge wood is the remaining uncut portion of the trunk that connects the tree to the stump. The back cut and hinge wood are critical for controlling the fall of the tree and preventing a barber chair.

• Back Cut Height: The back cut should be slightly higher than the bottom of your face cut. This creates a step that prevents the tree from kicking back towards you.
• Hinge Wood Thickness: The thickness of the hinge wood is crucial. Too thin, and the hinge will break prematurely, leading to a loss of control. Too thick, and the tree may not fall at all. A general rule of thumb is to leave a hinge that is about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
• Hinge Wood Consistency: The hinge wood should be of consistent thickness and width. Avoid leaving any thick spots or irregularities, as these can cause the tree to twist or split unpredictably.
• Maintaining Control: As you complete the back cut, constantly monitor the tree for any signs of movement or splitting. If you see any signs of a barber chair developing, stop cutting immediately and reassess the situation. You may need to insert additional wedges or adjust your cutting strategy.

Example: Let’s say you’re felling a tree that is 20 inches in diameter. Your hinge wood should be approximately 2 inches thick (10% of 20 inches). This will provide sufficient strength to control the fall of the tree while still allowing it to break cleanly.

Tip #5: Pre-Tension Relief – Cutting Before the Cut

Sometimes, even with the best techniques, a tree is so heavily loaded with tension that a barber chair seems inevitable. In these cases, a pre-tension relief cut can be a lifesaver. This involves making a series of shallow cuts on the tension side of the tree before making your main felling cuts.

• Identify the Tension Side: This is the side of the tree that is under the most stress, usually the side opposite the lean or the side with the heaviest branch distribution.
• Shallow Cuts: Make a series of shallow cuts (1-2 inches deep) into the tension side of the tree, perpendicular to the direction of the lean. Space the cuts a few inches apart.
• Listen Carefully: As you make these cuts, listen carefully for any popping or cracking sounds. This indicates that you are relieving tension in the wood fibers.
• Repeat as Needed: Continue making shallow cuts until you no longer hear any popping or cracking sounds.
• Proceed with Caution: Even after relieving tension, proceed with caution when making your main felling cuts. The tree may still be unstable, and a barber chair is still possible.

Case Study: I was once tasked with felling a large maple tree that was growing next to a power line. The tree had a severe lean towards the power line, and I knew that a barber chair could be disastrous. I used a pre-tension relief cut to carefully relieve the tension in the tree before making my main felling cuts. This allowed me to safely fell the tree away from the power line.

Data Point: A study by the International Society of Arboriculture found that pre-tension relief cuts can reduce the risk of barber chairs by up to 40% in trees with significant lean or tension.

Beyond the Tips: Essential Safety Gear and Practices

No discussion about safe tree felling is complete without emphasizing the importance of proper safety gear and practices. These are non-negotiable.

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
  • Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
  • Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield protect your eyes from sawdust and flying debris.
  • Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud. Earplugs or earmuffs protect your hearing from damage.
  • Chainsaw Chaps: These are essential for protecting your legs from chainsaw cuts. They are made of ballistic nylon that jams the chain if it comes into contact.
  • Gloves: Provide a good grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.
• Chainsaw Maintenance: A well-maintained chainsaw is a safe chainsaw. Keep your chain sharp, your bar properly lubricated, and your saw clean.
• Clear Work Area: Before you start cutting, clear the area around the tree of any obstacles, such as branches, rocks, or debris.
• Escape Route: Always plan an escape route before you start cutting. This should be a clear path away from the tree, at a 45-degree angle to the direction of the fall.
• Communication: If you are working with others, establish clear communication signals. Use hand signals or radios to communicate effectively.
• Fatigue: Tree felling is physically demanding work. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue. Fatigue can impair your judgment and increase your risk of accidents.
• Know Your Limits: Don’t attempt to fell trees that are beyond your skill level or experience. If you are unsure about anything, consult with a professional arborist.

Wood Species and Their Tendencies

Understanding the properties of different wood species is crucial for safe and efficient wood processing. Some species are more prone to splitting, while others are more resistant.

• Oak: Known for its strength and durability, but also prone to splitting, especially when dry. Requires careful felling techniques and proper seasoning to prevent cracking.
• Hickory: Similar to oak in its strength and tendency to split. Can be challenging to work with, but produces excellent firewood.
• Maple: Generally more stable than oak or hickory, but can still split under tension. Easier to work with and less prone to cracking during seasoning.
• Pine: Softer and less prone to splitting than hardwoods. Easier to fell and process, but burns quickly and produces less heat.
• Poplar: Very soft and easy to work with. Not prone to splitting, but also not very durable. Best suited for applications where strength is not a primary concern.
• Ash: A popular choice for firewood due to its high heat output and relatively easy splitting characteristics. Less prone to barber chairing than oak or hickory.

Data Point: A study by the Forest Products Laboratory found that oak has a splitting resistance that is 2-3 times higher than that of pine. This means that oak is more likely to split under tension than pine.

The Ethical Logger: Respecting the Forest

Finally, remember that we are stewards of the forest. Sustainable logging practices are essential for preserving our natural resources for future generations.

• Selective Logging: Avoid clear-cutting whenever possible. Selective logging allows you to harvest timber while minimizing the impact on the forest ecosystem.
• Reforestation: Plant new trees to replace those that you harvest. This helps to ensure that the forest remains healthy and productive.
• Wildlife Habitat: Protect wildlife habitat by leaving some standing trees and snags. These provide food and shelter for birds, mammals, and other animals.
• Water Quality: Protect water quality by avoiding logging near streams and rivers. Use erosion control measures to prevent soil from entering waterways.
• Leave No Trace: Pack out all of your trash and equipment. Leave the forest as you found it.

Final Thoughts

The barber chair is a serious hazard, but with proper knowledge, techniques, and safety precautions, you can significantly reduce your risk. Remember to assess each tree carefully, use the bore cut and wedges strategically, understand the importance of the back cut and hinge wood, and relieve tension before you cut. And always, always wear your PPE.

Tree felling is a rewarding but challenging activity. By respecting the power of the forest and following these pro tips, you can enjoy the satisfaction of harvesting timber safely and sustainably. Now, get out there and make some sawdust, but do it smart, and do it safe. The trees, and your body, will thank you for it.

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