Top of Tree Dead? (5 Expert Wood Processing Tips)
Let’s dive into the fascinating world of wood processing!
The best option when dealing with a tree that’s dead from the top down is often to harvest it carefully and turn it into valuable resources like lumber or firewood. However, doing this safely and efficiently requires understanding the unique challenges posed by dead trees. They can be unpredictable, heavier than you think in certain spots, and potentially harboring hidden dangers.
In this guide, I’ll share my top 5 expert wood processing tips for handling trees that are dead from the top down. These tips are designed to help you maximize your yield, minimize risks, and turn a potentially problematic situation into a productive one. Whether you’re a seasoned logger, a small-scale contractor, or a DIY enthusiast preparing firewood for the winter, these insights will prove invaluable.
Visual Inspection:
- Extent of Decay: How far down does the deadwood extend? Is it just the crown, or are there signs of decay further down the trunk? Look for fungal growth, loose bark, and woodpecker activity – all indicators of rot.
- Lean and Balance: Dead trees often develop an unnatural lean due to the loss of structural integrity in the upper branches. Assess the direction of the lean and how it might affect the felling process.
- Surrounding Environment: What’s around the tree? Are there buildings, power lines, fences, or other obstacles that could be damaged if the tree falls unexpectedly? Identify escape routes and clear the area of any obstructions.
- Wind Conditions: Wind can significantly impact the behavior of a dead tree during felling. Avoid working in high winds. Even a slight breeze can cause unpredictable movement.
Sounding the Tree:
- Use a hammer or axe to tap the trunk at various points. A solid, resonant sound indicates healthy wood. A dull, hollow sound suggests decay. Pay particular attention to the base of the tree, where rot is most common.
Understanding Wood Types and Decay:
- Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods (oak, maple, ash) generally decay slower than softwoods (pine, fir, spruce). However, the type of fungus present can also influence the rate of decay.
- Common Decay Fungi: Learn to identify common wood-decaying fungi. Some fungi cause brown rot, which breaks down the cellulose in the wood, leaving it brittle and crumbly. Others cause white rot, which breaks down the lignin, leaving the wood spongy and bleached.
- Moisture Content: Deadwood typically has a lower moisture content than live wood, making it lighter and more brittle. However, pockets of moisture can still exist within the trunk, especially in areas of decay.
Personal Story: I once worked on a project removing several large oak trees that appeared to be healthy from the outside. However, after felling the first tree, we discovered extensive heart rot that weakened the trunk significantly. This experience taught me the importance of thorough assessment and the need to adjust our felling techniques based on the tree’s condition. We ended up using a crane to safely remove the remaining trees in sections.
Data and Insights: Studies have shown that trees with more than 30% decay are significantly more likely to fail during felling. Regular inspections and risk assessments can help prevent accidents and ensure the safety of workers and property.
2. Chainsaw Selection and Maintenance: Your Trusty Tool
Choosing the right chainsaw and keeping it in top condition is paramount when dealing with dead trees. A dull chain or an underpowered saw can lead to kickback, pinching, and other dangerous situations.
Chainsaw Size and Power:
- For small to medium-sized trees (up to 18 inches in diameter), a 16-inch to 18-inch chainsaw with a 40cc to 50cc engine is typically sufficient.
- For larger trees (over 18 inches in diameter), a 20-inch or longer chainsaw with a 50cc to 60cc engine is recommended.
- For professional logging, larger and more powerful chainsaws (over 70cc) are often used.
- Electric Chainsaws: Battery-powered chainsaws are becoming increasingly popular for smaller jobs and offer several advantages, including reduced noise and emissions. However, they may not have the power and runtime required for larger trees.
Chain Selection and Sharpening:
- Chain Type: Choose a chain type that is appropriate for the type of wood you are cutting. Full chisel chains are faster and more efficient for cutting softwoods, while semi-chisel chains are more durable and better suited for hardwoods.
- Chain Sharpening: A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient cutting. Learn how to sharpen your chain properly using a file or a chain grinder. Sharpen your chain frequently, especially when cutting dirty or decayed wood.
- Depth Gauges: Check and adjust the depth gauges on your chain regularly. Depth gauges that are too high can cause the chain to grab and kickback.
Chainsaw Maintenance:
- Air Filter: Clean the air filter regularly to ensure proper engine performance. A clogged air filter can cause the engine to overheat and lose power.
- Fuel Filter: Replace the fuel filter annually to prevent fuel contamination.
- Spark Plug: Replace the spark plug annually to ensure reliable starting.
- Bar and Chain Oil: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to lubricate the chain and prevent wear. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed.
- Chain Tension: Check the chain tension regularly and adjust as needed. A loose chain can derail and cause injury.
Case Study: I once worked with a team that was using a dull chainsaw to fell a large dead ash tree. The saw was constantly pinching, and the operator was struggling to make clean cuts. After switching to a properly sharpened chainsaw, the job became much easier and safer. The team was able to fell the tree quickly and efficiently, with minimal risk of kickback or pinching.
Tool Specifications:
- Chainsaw File: Use a round file with the correct diameter for your chain type. A 5/32-inch file is commonly used for .325-inch pitch chains, while a 7/32-inch file is used for 3/8-inch pitch chains.
- Depth Gauge Tool: Use a depth gauge tool to check and adjust the depth gauges on your chain.
- Chain Grinder: A chain grinder can be used to sharpen chains quickly and accurately.
3. Felling Techniques for Dead Trees: Precision and Control
Felling a dead tree requires a different approach than felling a live tree. Dead trees are often weaker and more unpredictable, so it’s essential to use precise felling techniques to maintain control and minimize the risk of accidents.
Planning the Fall:
- Direction of Fall: Determine the natural lean of the tree and plan the direction of fall accordingly. If the tree has a significant lean, it may be necessary to use wedges or a pulling system to control the direction of fall.
- Escape Routes: Identify and clear two escape routes that are at a 45-degree angle to the direction of fall.
- Clear the Area: Clear the area around the tree of any obstacles, such as brush, rocks, and debris.
Making the Cuts:
- Notch Cut: The notch cut is a V-shaped cut that is made on the side of the tree in the direction of fall. The notch cut should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
- Hinge Wood: The hinge wood is the strip of wood that remains between the notch cut and the back cut. The hinge wood controls the direction of fall and prevents the tree from twisting or kicking back.
- Back Cut: The back cut is a horizontal cut that is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch cut. The back cut should be slightly higher than the notch cut.
- Holding Wood: Leave a small amount of holding wood between the back cut and the hinge wood. This will prevent the tree from falling prematurely.
- Wedges: Use wedges to help direct the fall of the tree and prevent the chainsaw from pinching. Insert the wedges into the back cut and tap them with a hammer or axe.
Dealing with Hanging Trees:
- A hanging tree is a tree that has been partially felled but is caught on another tree. Hanging trees are extremely dangerous and should be handled with extreme caution.
- Never attempt to climb a hanging tree or cut the supporting tree.
- Use a winch or a pulling system to pull the hanging tree down.
- If you are unable to safely remove a hanging tree, contact a professional arborist.
Original Insights: In my experience, dead trees often have a tendency to barber chair (split vertically up the trunk) during felling. To prevent this, I often use a technique called “pre-splitting” where I make a shallow cut along the back of the tree before making the back cut. This helps to relieve tension in the wood and prevent the trunk from splitting.
Specific Details:
- Notch Angle: The angle of the notch cut should be between 45 and 60 degrees.
- Hinge Width: The width of the hinge wood should be about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
- Wedge Size: Use wedges that are appropriate for the size of the tree.
4. Safe Limbing and Bucking: Piece by Piece
Once the tree is on the ground, the next step is to limb and buck it into manageable sections. Limbing involves removing the branches from the trunk, while bucking involves cutting the trunk into shorter lengths.
Limbing Techniques:
- Work from the Base to the Top: Start limbing at the base of the tree and work your way towards the top. This will prevent you from tripping over branches.
- Stand on the Opposite Side: Stand on the opposite side of the tree from the branch you are cutting. This will protect you from kickback.
- Use a Limbing Axe: A limbing axe is a specialized axe that is designed for removing branches. It has a long handle and a sharp, curved blade.
- Use a Chainsaw Carefully: If you are using a chainsaw to limb, be extremely careful to avoid kickback. Use a low-kickback chain and keep the saw close to your body.
Bucking Techniques:
- Assess the Tension: Before bucking a log, assess the tension in the wood. If the log is supported at both ends, it will be in compression on the top and tension on the bottom. If the log is supported in the middle, it will be in tension on the top and compression on the bottom.
- Cut on the Compression Side First: To prevent the log from pinching the chainsaw, cut on the compression side first.
- Use Wedges: Use wedges to prevent the log from pinching the chainsaw. Insert the wedges into the cut as you are bucking.
- Use a Log Splitter: For splitting firewood, a hydraulic log splitter can significantly increase efficiency and reduce the risk of injury.
Safety Considerations:
- Wear Safety Glasses: Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying debris.
- Wear Hearing Protection: Wear hearing protection to protect your ears from the noise of the chainsaw.
- Wear Gloves: Wear gloves to protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
- Wear Steel-Toed Boots: Wear steel-toed boots to protect your feet from falling logs.
- Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for other workers.
Practical Next Steps:
- Practice Limbing and Bucking: Practice limbing and bucking on small logs before tackling larger trees.
- Attend a Chainsaw Safety Course: Attend a chainsaw safety course to learn proper techniques and safety procedures.
- Inspect Your Equipment Regularly: Inspect your chainsaw and other equipment regularly to ensure that it is in good working condition.
Example Project: I recently helped a friend clear a fallen oak tree from his property. The tree was quite large, and we had to use a combination of limbing and bucking techniques to break it down into manageable sections. We used a chainsaw to limb the tree and a hydraulic log splitter to split the logs into firewood. The project took us about two days to complete, but we were able to clear the tree safely and efficiently.
5. Wood Utilization and Storage: Making the Most of It
Once you’ve processed the dead tree, it’s time to think about how you’re going to use the wood and how you’re going to store it properly.
Wood Utilization Options:
- Firewood: Deadwood is often ideal for firewood, as it is typically drier than live wood. However, be sure to check for rot and avoid burning wood that is excessively decayed.
- Lumber: If the deadwood is still sound, it can be milled into lumber for various construction projects.
- Woodworking Projects: Smaller pieces of deadwood can be used for woodworking projects, such as furniture, carvings, and crafts.
- Mulch: Decayed wood can be composted and used as mulch in gardens.
- Wildlife Habitat: Leave some of the deadwood in the woods to provide habitat for wildlife.
Seasoning Firewood:
- Splitting: Split the firewood into smaller pieces to speed up the drying process.
- Stacking: Stack the firewood in a single row, with the bark facing up. This will allow the wood to dry more quickly.
- Location: Stack the firewood in a sunny and well-ventilated location.
- Covering: Cover the firewood with a tarp or a roof to protect it from rain and snow.
- Drying Time: Allow the firewood to dry for at least six months before burning it. The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%.
Strategic Advantages:
- Cost Savings: Using deadwood for firewood or lumber can save you money on heating and construction costs.
- Environmental Benefits: Utilizing deadwood reduces the amount of waste that goes to landfills.
- Wildlife Habitat: Leaving some of the deadwood in the woods provides habitat for wildlife.
Technical Details:
- Moisture Content Targets: Aim for a moisture content of below 20% for firewood.
- Drying Times: Drying times vary depending on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method.
- Storage Location: Choose a storage location that is sunny, well-ventilated, and protected from rain and snow.
Personalized Story: I remember one winter when I was running low on firewood. I had a large dead maple tree that had fallen in my backyard, so I decided to process it for firewood. I spent several days splitting and stacking the wood, and by the time winter rolled around, I had a huge pile of seasoned firewood that kept my house warm and cozy all winter long. It was a rewarding experience that not only saved me money but also gave me a sense of accomplishment.
Conclusion:
Dealing with a tree that’s dead from the top down can seem daunting, but with the right knowledge, tools, and techniques, it can be a safe and productive endeavor. By following these 5 expert tips, you can assess the tree thoroughly, choose the right chainsaw, fell it safely, limb and buck it efficiently, and utilize the wood effectively. Remember to prioritize safety at all times, and don’t hesitate to seek professional help if you’re unsure about any aspect of the process.
Now it’s your turn! Take these tips and start your own wood processing project. Whether you’re preparing firewood for the winter or milling lumber for a construction project, the knowledge you’ve gained here will help you achieve your goals safely and efficiently. Good luck, and happy wood processing!