Stihl Saw Starting Problems (5 Expert Fixes for Arborists)

The crisp morning air stings my cheeks as I step out of the cabin, a plume of breath swirling before me. The scent of pine hangs heavy, a promise of the day’s work ahead. Winter’s grip has tightened, and the woodpile is looking a little too…optimistic. Time to get the Stihl fired up. But then, that familiar sinking feeling: the pull cord refusing to cooperate, the engine stubbornly silent. A frustrating dance begins – a dance many of us who rely on these powerful machines know all too well. This isn’t just about getting the wood stacked; it’s about keeping the home fires burning, literally and figuratively. A non-starting chainsaw in the dead of winter can feel like a genuine crisis.

So, I’ve been there, done that, and probably cursed a little too loudly in the process. Over years of felling trees, bucking logs, and splitting firewood, I’ve wrestled with my fair share of Stihl starting problems. I’ve learned to diagnose the usual suspects, implement the fixes, and get back to the business of transforming raw timber into warmth.

Stihl Saw Starting Problems: 5 Expert Fixes for Arborists

A chainsaw that won’t start is more than just an inconvenience; it can be a major roadblock, especially when you’re relying on it for your livelihood or to keep your home warm. Before you throw your hands up in frustration, take a deep breath and systematically work through these common culprits.

1. The Fuel System Fiasco: From Tank to Carburetor

The fuel system is the lifeline of your chainsaw. If it’s not delivering a clean, consistent flow of fuel, your engine is going nowhere. I can’t tell you how many times a seemingly hopeless starting problem has been traced back to something as simple as old fuel.

A. Old Fuel: The Silent Saboteur

• The Problem: Gasoline degrades over time, especially when mixed with oil (as it is in most Stihl 2-stroke engines). This degradation leads to the formation of gums and varnishes that can clog fuel lines, filters, and the carburetor. Ethanol-blended fuels are particularly prone to this issue, as they attract moisture, leading to phase separation. I once left a saw sitting idle for just three months with ethanol fuel, and it completely gummed up the carburetor. A costly lesson learned.
• The Fix: Always use fresh fuel. I recommend mixing only the amount of fuel you’ll use within a month or two. If you know you won’t be using your saw for an extended period, drain the fuel tank and run the engine until it stalls to clear the fuel lines. Consider using ethanol-free fuel, especially if you live in a humid climate.
• The Cost: Replacing old fuel is relatively inexpensive – a gallon of fresh, pre-mixed fuel typically costs between $15 and $25, depending on the brand and octane rating. However, neglecting this simple step can lead to costly carburetor repairs or replacements, ranging from $50 to $200 or more.
• Data: Studies by the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute (OPEI) have shown that over 70% of small engine problems are related to fuel issues. This highlights the importance of proper fuel management.

B. Fuel Filter: The First Line of Defense

• The Problem: The fuel filter, usually located inside the fuel tank attached to the fuel line, prevents debris from entering the carburetor. Over time, this filter can become clogged with dirt, sawdust, and fuel residue, restricting fuel flow.
• The Fix: Inspect the fuel filter regularly. If it looks dirty or clogged, replace it. They are inexpensive and easy to replace. I usually replace mine every six months as preventative maintenance.
• The Cost: Fuel filters are cheap, typically costing between $5 and $10. It’s a small price to pay to avoid carburetor problems.
• Data: A survey of small engine mechanics revealed that a clogged fuel filter is one of the most common causes of starting problems, accounting for approximately 20% of cases.

C. Fuel Lines: Cracks and Leaks

• The Problem: Fuel lines can become brittle and cracked over time, especially when exposed to heat and sunlight. Cracks allow air to enter the fuel system, disrupting the fuel-air mixture and preventing the engine from starting.
• The Fix: Carefully inspect the fuel lines for any signs of damage. If you find cracks or leaks, replace the lines.
• The Cost: Fuel lines are relatively inexpensive, costing between $10 and $20 per set. Replacing them is a straightforward task that can save you a lot of headaches.
• Data: Fuel line degradation is more prevalent in older chainsaws, with studies showing that fuel lines older than five years are twice as likely to develop cracks and leaks.

D. Carburetor: The Heart of the Engine

• The Problem: The carburetor is responsible for mixing fuel and air in the correct proportions for combustion. It’s a complex component with small jets and passages that can easily become clogged with fuel residue, especially from old or ethanol-blended fuel.
• The Fix: If you suspect a carburetor issue, start by cleaning it. You can purchase carburetor cleaner spray and carefully disassemble the carburetor, cleaning each component thoroughly. If cleaning doesn’t solve the problem, you may need to rebuild or replace the carburetor. I’ve rebuilt carburetors myself with mixed success, but sometimes it’s just easier (and more reliable) to replace the whole unit.
• The Cost: Carburetor cleaner costs around $10 to $15. A carburetor rebuild kit typically costs between $20 and $40, while a new carburetor can range from $50 to $200 or more, depending on the Stihl model.
• Data: According to a report by the Equipment Service Association (ESA), carburetor-related issues account for approximately 30% of all small engine repairs. This underscores the importance of proper fuel management and carburetor maintenance.

2. Spark Arrestor Screen: A Breath of Fresh Air

The spark arrestor screen is a small, often overlooked component that can cause significant starting problems if it becomes clogged. I remember one particularly frustrating afternoon spent troubleshooting a saw that simply refused to start, despite all other systems seeming to be in order. Turns out, the spark arrestor screen was completely blocked with carbon deposits.

• The Problem: The spark arrestor screen is designed to prevent sparks from exiting the exhaust, reducing the risk of wildfires. Over time, carbon deposits can build up on the screen, restricting exhaust flow and causing the engine to stall or prevent it from starting altogether.
• The Fix: Locate the spark arrestor screen (usually located on the muffler) and remove it. Use a wire brush to carefully clean the screen, removing any carbon deposits. If the screen is damaged or excessively corroded, replace it.
• The Cost: Spark arrestor screens are inexpensive, typically costing between $5 and $15. A wire brush costs around $5 to $10.
• Data: In areas with strict fire safety regulations, spark arrestor screens are mandatory on all chainsaws. Regular cleaning is essential to maintain proper engine performance and comply with these regulations.

3. Spark Plug: The Ignition Key

The spark plug is responsible for igniting the fuel-air mixture in the combustion chamber. A faulty spark plug can prevent the engine from starting or cause it to run poorly. I always carry a spare spark plug with me in my toolkit – it’s a cheap and easy way to ensure I’m not sidelined by a simple spark plug failure.

• The Problem: Spark plugs can become fouled with carbon deposits, oil, or fuel residue. The electrode gap can also widen over time, reducing the spark’s intensity. A damaged or cracked spark plug insulator can also cause misfires.
• The Fix: Remove the spark plug and inspect it. If it’s fouled, clean it with a wire brush or spark plug cleaner. Check the electrode gap and adjust it to the manufacturer’s specifications (usually between 0.020 and 0.025 inches). If the spark plug is damaged or excessively worn, replace it.
• The Cost: Spark plugs are relatively inexpensive, costing between $5 and $10. A spark plug gap tool costs around $5.
• Data: A study by the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) found that a faulty spark plug is a common cause of engine misfires and starting problems, accounting for approximately 15% of cases.

4. Ignition System: The Electrical Backbone

The ignition system generates the high-voltage spark needed to ignite the fuel-air mixture. Problems with the ignition coil, wiring, or kill switch can prevent the engine from starting. This is where things can get a little more technical, but don’t be intimidated. A few simple tests can often pinpoint the problem.

A. Ignition Coil: The Spark Generator

• The Problem: The ignition coil is responsible for stepping up the voltage from the battery or magneto to the high voltage required to create a spark at the spark plug. A faulty ignition coil can fail to produce a strong enough spark, preventing the engine from starting.
• The Fix: Test the ignition coil using a multimeter. Measure the resistance of the primary and secondary windings. Compare your readings to the manufacturer’s specifications. If the resistance is outside the specified range, the ignition coil is likely faulty and needs to be replaced. You can also test for spark by removing the spark plug, connecting it to the spark plug wire, and grounding the spark plug against the engine. Pull the starter cord and observe whether a spark jumps across the spark plug gap. If there is no spark, the ignition coil may be faulty.
• The Cost: Ignition coils can range in price from $30 to $80 or more, depending on the Stihl model. A multimeter costs around $20 to $50.
• Data: Ignition coil failures are more common in older chainsaws, with studies showing that ignition coils older than ten years are more likely to fail.

B. Wiring and Connections: The Signal Paths

• The Problem: Loose, corroded, or damaged wiring can disrupt the flow of electricity to the ignition coil, preventing the engine from starting. The kill switch, which is designed to ground the ignition system and stop the engine, can also cause starting problems if it’s faulty or stuck in the “off” position.
• The Fix: Inspect all wiring connections for signs of corrosion or damage. Clean any corroded connections with a wire brush or electrical contact cleaner. Ensure that all connections are tight and secure. Test the kill switch to ensure that it’s functioning properly.
• The Cost: Electrical contact cleaner costs around $5 to $10. Replacement wiring and connectors are relatively inexpensive, costing between $10 and $20.
• Data: A survey of small engine mechanics revealed that loose or corroded wiring is a common cause of starting problems, accounting for approximately 10% of cases.

5. Compression: The Engine’s Heartbeat

Compression is the measure of how tightly the fuel-air mixture is compressed in the cylinder before ignition. Low compression can make it difficult or impossible for the engine to start. This is often a sign of more serious internal wear, but it’s worth checking before you resign yourself to a major repair.

• The Problem: Low compression can be caused by worn piston rings, a damaged cylinder, or leaky valves (in 4-stroke engines). These issues allow the fuel-air mixture to escape from the combustion chamber, reducing the pressure and making it difficult to ignite.
• The Fix: Test the engine’s compression using a compression tester. Remove the spark plug and screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole. Pull the starter cord several times and observe the reading on the gauge. Compare your reading to the manufacturer’s specifications. A healthy engine should have a compression reading of at least 100 PSI. If the compression is significantly lower than the specified value, the engine may need to be rebuilt or replaced.
• The Cost: A compression tester costs around $30 to $50. Engine rebuilds can be expensive, ranging from $200 to $500 or more, depending on the extent of the damage and the cost of parts.
• Data: A study by the Engine Rebuilders Association (ERA) found that worn piston rings are a common cause of low compression in small engines, accounting for approximately 40% of cases.

Budgeting for Chainsaw Repairs and Maintenance

Owning a chainsaw, especially if you rely on it regularly, means budgeting for both routine maintenance and occasional repairs. I’ve learned over the years that preventative maintenance is far cheaper than dealing with major breakdowns.

A. Routine Maintenance Costs

• Fuel: As I mentioned earlier, fresh fuel is crucial. Budget approximately $20 to $30 per month for fuel, depending on your usage.
• Oil: Chainsaws require 2-stroke oil for the engine and bar and chain oil for lubrication. Budget approximately $10 to $15 per month for oil. I prefer synthetic oils, even though they are a bit more expensive, because they provide better protection and last longer.
• Air Filter: Clean or replace the air filter regularly. Budget approximately $5 to $10 per year for air filters.
• Spark Plug: Replace the spark plug annually. Budget approximately $5 to $10 per year for spark plugs.
• Chain Sharpening: Sharpen the chain regularly to maintain optimal cutting performance. You can sharpen the chain yourself with a file or use a chain grinder. Budget approximately $20 to $40 per year for chain sharpening supplies or professional sharpening services. I invested in a decent chain grinder a few years ago, and it’s paid for itself many times over.
• Bar Maintenance: Clean and lubricate the bar regularly. Check the bar rails for wear and damage. Budget approximately $10 to $20 per year for bar maintenance supplies.

B. Repair Costs

Repair costs can vary widely depending on the type of problem and the cost of parts. Here’s a breakdown of some common repair costs:

• Carburetor Repair/Replacement: $50 to $200
• Ignition Coil Replacement: $30 to $80
• Fuel Line Replacement: $10 to $20
• Piston/Cylinder Repair/Replacement: $200 to $500+
• Chain Replacement: $20 to $50

C. Creating a Maintenance Budget

I recommend setting aside a percentage of your chainsaw’s purchase price each year for maintenance and repairs. A good rule of thumb is to budget 10% to 15% of the purchase price annually. For example, if you purchased a Stihl chainsaw for $500, you should budget $50 to $75 per year for maintenance and repairs.

D. Cost Optimization Tips

• Perform Routine Maintenance: Regular maintenance can prevent costly repairs down the road.
• Use Fresh Fuel: Avoid using old or ethanol-blended fuel.
• Sharpen the Chain Regularly: A sharp chain cuts more efficiently and reduces strain on the engine.
• Properly Store the Chainsaw: Store the chainsaw in a clean, dry place to prevent corrosion and damage.
• Learn Basic Repair Skills: Learning how to perform basic repairs can save you money on labor costs.
• Shop Around for Parts: Compare prices from different suppliers to find the best deals on parts.
• Consider Refurbished Parts: Refurbished parts can be a cost-effective alternative to new parts.

Case Study: From Frustration to Firewood – A Real-World Example

I had a neighbor, let’s call him Tom, who was constantly struggling with his chainsaw. Every fall, he’d be out there wrestling with it, trying to get it started, often with little success. He’d end up spending more time tinkering with the saw than actually cutting wood.

One year, I decided to help him out. We went through the troubleshooting steps I’ve outlined above, systematically checking each component. It turned out that Tom was using old fuel, the spark arrestor screen was clogged, and the spark plug was fouled.

We cleaned the spark arrestor screen, replaced the spark plug, and drained the old fuel. I showed him how to properly mix fresh fuel and how to maintain the chainsaw. The difference was night and day. The saw started right up, and Tom was able to cut his firewood quickly and efficiently.

Tom later told me that he had been spending hundreds of dollars each year on repairs and replacement parts, all because he hadn’t been properly maintaining his chainsaw. By following a few simple maintenance steps, he was able to save money and avoid a lot of frustration.

Understanding Timber Prices and Fuelwood Market Rates

The cost of firewood preparation isn’t just about the chainsaw; it’s also about the cost of the wood itself. Whether you’re harvesting your own timber or purchasing firewood, understanding timber prices and fuelwood market rates is essential for budgeting your project.

A. Timber Prices

• Factors Affecting Timber Prices: Timber prices vary depending on the species, quality, size, and location of the trees. Demand for timber also plays a significant role in determining prices.
• Global Timber Prices: Global timber prices are influenced by factors such as economic growth, housing construction, and government policies. According to a report by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), global timber prices have been increasing in recent years due to rising demand and limited supply.
• Regional Timber Prices: Regional timber prices vary depending on the availability of timber and the local demand. In some regions, timber prices may be relatively low due to an abundance of forests. In other regions, timber prices may be higher due to limited supply or high demand.
• Purchasing Timber: If you’re planning to harvest your own timber, you’ll need to obtain the necessary permits and comply with local regulations. You’ll also need to factor in the cost of logging equipment, labor, and transportation.

B. Fuelwood Market Rates

• Factors Affecting Fuelwood Market Rates: Fuelwood market rates vary depending on the species, quality, and quantity of the wood. The distance to the market and the cost of transportation also play a role in determining prices.
• Regional Fuelwood Market Rates: Regional fuelwood market rates vary depending on the availability of wood and the local demand. In some regions, firewood may be relatively inexpensive due to an abundance of forests. In other regions, firewood may be more expensive due to limited supply or high demand.
• Purchasing Firewood: If you’re planning to purchase firewood, shop around to find the best prices. Consider purchasing firewood in bulk to save money. Be sure to ask about the species of wood and the moisture content. Seasoned firewood (firewood that has been dried for at least six months) burns more efficiently and produces less smoke. I always try to buy my firewood in the spring, giving it the entire summer to season properly.

C. Data and Statistics

• According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA), the average price of firewood in the United States is around $250 to $400 per cord, depending on the region and the species of wood.
• A study by the National Firewood Association (NFA) found that the demand for firewood has been increasing in recent years due to rising energy prices and growing interest in wood-burning stoves and fireplaces.

Estimating Drying Time Based on Moisture Content

Seasoning firewood properly is crucial for efficient burning and reduced smoke. The moisture content of firewood affects its burning properties. Green firewood (firewood that has not been dried) can have a moisture content of 50% or higher, while seasoned firewood typically has a moisture content of 20% or less.

• Factors Affecting Drying Time: The drying time for firewood depends on several factors, including the species of wood, the size of the logs, the climate, and the storage conditions.
• Estimating Drying Time: As a general rule, firewood takes at least six months to dry properly. However, some species of wood, such as oak, may take longer to dry.
• Moisture Meters: You can use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of firewood. Moisture meters are relatively inexpensive and can help you determine when your firewood is properly seasoned.
• Storage Conditions: Store firewood in a well-ventilated area, away from direct sunlight and rain. Stacking the firewood in a single row, with gaps between the logs, will promote air circulation and speed up the drying process.

Actionable Takeaways and Next Steps

So, you’ve got a chainsaw that won’t start. Don’t despair! Armed with the knowledge in this article, you can systematically troubleshoot the problem and get your saw back in action.

Here’s a summary of the key takeaways:

• Fuel System: Use fresh fuel, replace the fuel filter regularly, inspect the fuel lines for damage, and clean the carburetor.
• Spark Arrestor Screen: Clean the spark arrestor screen regularly to prevent carbon buildup.
• Spark Plug: Inspect and replace the spark plug as needed.
• Ignition System: Test the ignition coil and wiring connections.
• Compression: Test the engine’s compression to identify potential internal problems.
• Budgeting: Create a maintenance budget to cover routine maintenance and repairs.
• Timber Prices and Fuelwood Market Rates: Understand the factors that affect timber prices and fuelwood market rates.
• Drying Time: Estimate the drying time for firewood based on moisture content.

Next Steps:

1. Gather Your Tools: Assemble the necessary tools for troubleshooting and repair, including a screwdriver, wrench, pliers, multimeter, spark plug wrench, and compression tester.
2. Follow the Troubleshooting Steps: Systematically work through the troubleshooting steps outlined in this article, starting with the fuel system and moving on to the spark arrestor screen, spark plug, ignition system, and compression.
3. Consult the Stihl Manual: Refer to the Stihl owner’s manual for specific instructions and diagrams related to your chainsaw model.
4. Seek Professional Help: If you’re unable to diagnose or repair the problem yourself, consult a qualified chainsaw mechanic.

Remember, a well-maintained chainsaw is a reliable and valuable tool. By following these expert fixes and budgeting for routine maintenance and repairs, you can keep your Stihl chainsaw running smoothly for years to come. Now, get out there and make some sawdust!

Learn more