Stihl MS661C Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Woodcutting Secrets)

Imagine you’re staring down a massive oak, its trunk wider than your truck, a true behemoth of the woods. The job? Felling it, bucking it into manageable sections, and getting it ready for the mill. A task like that demands respect, the right tools, and a whole lot of know-how. That’s where the Stihl MS661C comes in – a chainsaw that’s more than just a tool; it’s a partner in turning timber into something useful. But even the best chainsaw needs the right operator and the right techniques to truly sing. That’s why I’m going to share my top five pro woodcutting secrets specifically tailored for using the Stihl MS661C. These aren’t just random tips; they’re lessons learned from years of working in the woods, pushing this saw to its limits and beyond.

Mastering the Stihl MS661C: 5 Pro Woodcutting Secrets

The Stihl MS661C is a beast, no doubt about it. But raw power alone won’t get you far. It’s about finesse, understanding the wood, and knowing how to make the saw work with you, not against you. These five secrets will help you unlock the full potential of this incredible machine.

1. Chain Selection and Sharpening: The Foundation of Performance

The heart of any chainsaw is its chain. Choosing the right chain for the job and keeping it razor-sharp is absolutely critical.

Understanding Chain Types

There’s no one-size-fits-all chain. I’ve found that for the MS661C, you’ll likely be dealing with larger diameter wood, so aggressive ripping and full chisel chains are your best bet.

• Full Chisel Chains: These are the speed demons, designed for clean wood and rapid cutting. They are extremely efficient but lose their edge quickly if they contact dirt or debris. I use these when felling and bucking clean hardwoods.
• Semi-Chisel Chains: A bit more forgiving, semi-chisel chains hold their edge longer in slightly dirtier conditions. They’re a good all-around choice when you’re not sure what you’ll encounter.
• Ripping Chains: These chains are specifically designed for cutting wood lengthwise, such as milling logs into lumber. They have a different tooth geometry that makes them far more efficient for this type of cutting. I use these with my MS661C when I’m using it with an Alaskan Mill.

The chain pitch and gauge must also match your saw’s specifications. The MS661C typically uses a .404″ pitch and .063″ gauge. Always consult your owner’s manual to confirm these specifications.

The Art of Sharpening

A dull chain is a dangerous chain. It forces you to apply more pressure, increasing the risk of kickback and making the saw work harder. Sharpening isn’t just about making the chain sharp; it’s about maintaining the correct angles and depth gauges.

• Tools You’ll Need:

  • Chainsaw file (size appropriate for your chain pitch)
  • File guide
  • Depth gauge tool
  • Flat file
  • Vise

• The Sharpening Process:

  1. Secure the chainsaw bar in a vise.
  2. Use the file guide to maintain the correct filing angle (typically 30-35 degrees for most chains).
  3. File each cutter consistently, using smooth, even strokes. Count your strokes to ensure each cutter is sharpened equally.
  4. Check and adjust the depth gauges with the depth gauge tool and flat file. The depth gauges control how much the cutter bites into the wood.
  5. Rotate the chain and repeat the process for all cutters.

I personally sharpen my chains after every tank of gas when working with hardwoods. This keeps the saw cutting efficiently and reduces fatigue. Remember, a sharp chain pulls itself into the wood; a dull chain requires you to force it.

Chain Maintenance

Beyond sharpening, regular cleaning and lubrication are essential for chain longevity.

• Cleaning: Use a brush and solvent to remove sawdust and resin buildup.
• Lubrication: Ensure the automatic oiler is functioning correctly and use a high-quality bar and chain oil. I prefer a synthetic blend for its superior lubrication and tackiness.

Takeaway: Chain selection and sharpening are the cornerstones of efficient and safe woodcutting. Invest time in learning how to properly sharpen your chains, and you’ll see a dramatic improvement in your saw’s performance.

2. Mastering Felling Techniques: Precision and Safety First

Felling a tree is a serious undertaking. It’s not just about pointing the saw and cutting; it’s about understanding the tree, the terrain, and the potential hazards.

Assessing the Tree and Surroundings

Before making a single cut, take the time to assess the situation.

• Lean: Determine the tree’s natural lean. This will influence the direction it wants to fall.
• Wind: Wind can significantly alter the tree’s fall path. Never fell a tree in high winds.
• Obstacles: Identify any obstacles in the tree’s path, such as other trees, power lines, or buildings.
• Escape Routes: Plan two clear escape routes at a 45-degree angle away from the intended fall direction.
• Tree Species: Different tree species have different felling characteristics. For example, hardwoods like oak tend to be more brittle and prone to barber chairing, while softwoods like pine are more predictable.

The Felling Cut Sequence

The standard felling cut sequence involves a notch cut and a back cut.

1. Notch Cut: The notch cut determines the direction of the fall. It consists of two cuts:
   • Top Cut: Made at a 45-degree angle, aiming towards the center of the tree.
   • Bottom Cut: Made horizontally, meeting the top cut to form a wedge.
2. Hinge: The hinge is the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. It controls the fall of the tree. The width of the hinge should be about 80% of the tree’s diameter.
3. Back Cut: The back cut is made horizontally, slightly above the bottom of the notch. Never cut completely through the tree. Leave the hinge intact.

Using Felling Wedges

Felling wedges are invaluable tools for controlling the direction of the fall, especially when the tree is leaning in the wrong direction.

• Placement: Insert the wedges into the back cut, behind the saw.
• Driving: Use a hammer or axe to drive the wedges in, gradually lifting the tree in the desired direction.

I’ve had situations where a tree was leaning heavily against its intended fall direction. Using a combination of multiple wedges and a felling lever, I was able to safely redirect the fall. It’s a slow process, but far safer than trying to force the tree with the saw alone.

Common Felling Mistakes

• Cutting the Hinge: Cutting through the hinge is a recipe for disaster. It removes control over the fall and can lead to unpredictable results.
• Uneven Back Cut: An uneven back cut can cause the tree to twist or kick back.
• Ignoring the Lean: Ignoring the tree’s natural lean can lead to miscalculations and a dangerous fall.

Takeaway: Felling is a skill that requires practice and attention to detail. Always prioritize safety, assess the situation thoroughly, and use the proper techniques and tools.

3. Bucking Techniques: Maximizing Yield and Minimizing Pinching

Bucking is the process of cutting a felled tree into manageable lengths. It’s where you start turning timber into usable material.

Planning Your Cuts

Before making any cuts, plan your bucking strategy. Consider the intended use of the wood and the dimensions required.

• Log Lengths: Determine the optimal log lengths for your needs. For firewood, I typically buck logs into 16-18 inch lengths. For milling, consider the dimensions of the lumber you want to produce.
• Defects: Identify any defects in the log, such as knots, rot, or sweep (curvature). Try to buck the log to minimize these defects.
• Tension and Compression: Understand the forces acting on the log. The top of a log lying on the ground is under tension, while the bottom is under compression.

Bucking Techniques to Avoid Pinching

Pinching occurs when the saw blade gets stuck in the cut due to compression. Here are some techniques to avoid it:

• Overbucking: Cut from the top down, about one-third of the way through the log. Then, roll the log over and finish the cut from the bottom up. This is ideal when the log is supported at both ends.
• Underbucking: Cut from the bottom up, about one-third of the way through the log. Then, finish the cut from the top down. This is ideal when the log is supported in the middle.
• Using Wedges: If you anticipate pinching, insert wedges into the cut to keep it open.

I once had to buck a massive maple log that was under tremendous tension. Every time I started a cut, the saw would get pinched within seconds. By using a combination of overbucking, underbucking, and strategically placed wedges, I was able to safely and efficiently buck the log into manageable sections.

Safe Bucking Practices

• Stable Footing: Ensure you have solid footing before starting any cut.
• Clear Work Area: Keep the work area clear of debris and obstructions.
• Proper Body Positioning: Stand to the side of the cut, never directly behind the saw.
• Use a Saw Buck: A saw buck provides a stable and safe platform for bucking logs.

Takeaway: Bucking is more than just cutting logs to length. It’s about planning, understanding the forces at play, and using the right techniques to avoid pinching and ensure safety.

4. The Alaskan Mill Advantage: Turning Logs into Lumber

The Stihl MS661C, with its raw power and robust design, is an excellent choice for use with an Alaskan Mill, allowing you to turn logs into lumber right in the field.

Understanding the Alaskan Mill

The Alaskan Mill is a chainsaw attachment that allows you to cut logs into boards or slabs. It consists of a frame that clamps onto the chainsaw bar and a guide rail that runs along the log.

Setting Up the Mill

• Attaching the Mill: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to attach the mill to your chainsaw. Ensure the mill is securely clamped to the bar.
• Guide Rail: The guide rail provides a straight edge for the first cut. It can be a 2×6 board, a metal track, or even another log.
• Leveling the Log: Use shims or wedges to level the log. This will ensure that your first cut is straight and even.

Milling Techniques

• First Cut: The first cut is the most critical. Take your time and ensure the saw is running smoothly and the cut is straight.
• Subsequent Cuts: After the first cut, the milled surface becomes your guide. Simply rest the mill on the previous cut and continue milling.
• Cutting Speed: Don’t force the saw. Let it do the work. A slower, steady pace will result in a smoother cut and less strain on the saw.
• Chain Selection: As mentioned earlier, using a ripping chain is highly recommended for milling. It is specifically designed for cutting wood lengthwise.

I once used my MS661C and Alaskan Mill to mill a fallen black walnut tree into beautiful slabs for a custom table. It was a challenging but rewarding project. The key was taking my time, keeping the chain sharp, and making sure the mill was properly adjusted.

Tips for Successful Milling

• Sharp Chain: A dull chain will make milling incredibly difficult and time-consuming. Sharpen your chain frequently.
• Proper Oiling: Milling puts a lot of stress on the chainsaw. Ensure the automatic oiler is functioning correctly and use a high-quality bar and chain oil.
• Cooling Breaks: Give the saw a break every so often to prevent overheating.
• Safety Gear: Wear appropriate safety gear, including eye protection, hearing protection, and gloves.

Takeaway: The Alaskan Mill transforms your Stihl MS661C into a portable sawmill. It’s a great way to utilize fallen trees and create custom lumber for your projects.

5. Safety First: Protecting Yourself and Your Equipment

No matter how skilled you are, woodcutting is inherently dangerous. Prioritizing safety is paramount.

Essential Safety Gear

• Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
• Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield are essential to protect your eyes from flying wood chips.
• Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud. Use earplugs or earmuffs to prevent hearing damage.
• Gloves: Protect your hands and improve grip.
• Chaps: Chainsaw chaps are designed to stop the chain in the event of a kickback. They are a must-have for any chainsaw operator.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and sharp objects.

Safe Operating Practices

• Read the Manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s operating instructions and safety features.
• Inspect the Saw: Before each use, inspect the saw for any damage or loose parts.
• Start the Saw Safely: Start the saw on the ground, with the chain brake engaged.
• Maintain a Firm Grip: Use both hands to grip the saw firmly.
• Keep Your Balance: Maintain a stable stance and avoid overreaching.
• Be Aware of Kickback: Kickback is a sudden, forceful reaction that can occur when the tip of the saw blade contacts a solid object. Be aware of the risk of kickback and take steps to avoid it.
• Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height is dangerous and can lead to loss of control.
• Take Breaks: Woodcutting is physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.

I once witnessed a near-fatal accident when a fellow logger ignored basic safety precautions. He was felling a tree without wearing chaps, and the saw kicked back, severely injuring his leg. It was a stark reminder that safety gear is not optional; it’s essential.

First Aid Kit

Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand, and know how to use it. Include items such as bandages, antiseptic wipes, pain relievers, and a tourniquet.

Takeaway: Safety is not an afterthought; it’s the foundation of responsible woodcutting. Always wear appropriate safety gear, follow safe operating practices, and be aware of the potential hazards.

Final Thoughts: Respect the Wood, Respect the Saw

The Stihl MS661C is a powerful and versatile tool that can help you accomplish a wide range of woodcutting tasks. But like any tool, it’s only as good as the person using it. By mastering these five pro woodcutting secrets – chain selection and sharpening, felling techniques, bucking techniques, using the Alaskan Mill, and prioritizing safety – you can unlock the full potential of this incredible chainsaw and turn timber into something truly valuable. Remember to always respect the wood, respect the saw, and respect the power you wield. With practice, patience, and a commitment to safety, you’ll be well on your way to becoming a skilled and confident woodcutter.

Learn more