Stihl MS661 Chainsaw Guide: Pro Tips for Firewood Cutting (7 Hacks)

It’s funny, you know. When the MS 661 first hit the scene, it was like everyone suddenly had to have one. It wasn’t just a chainsaw; it was a statement. A statement that said, “I’m serious about wood.” And trust me, in the world of professional logging and serious firewood cutting, perception matters. But beyond the hype, the Stihl MS 661 truly delivers. I’ve personally seen seasoned pros switch over, citing its power-to-weight ratio and sheer reliability as game-changers. I’ve used mine extensively, and I’m here to share my insights, not just about the saw itself, but about how to truly master it for firewood cutting. Let’s dive in, shall we?

I’ll walk you through seven essential hacks that I’ve learned over the years, refining my technique and maximizing both efficiency and safety.

1. Mastering the MS 661: Understanding the Beast

Before we even think about cutting, let’s talk about the MS 661 itself. This isn’t your average backyard saw. It’s a professional-grade machine built for demanding tasks.

• Engine Specs: The MS 661 boasts a powerful 91.1 cc engine, delivering around 7.3 bhp (brake horsepower). This translates to serious cutting power, allowing you to tackle large-diameter logs with relative ease.
• Weight: At around 16.3 lbs (without the bar and chain), it’s not the lightest saw on the market. This weight, however, contributes to stability and reduces vibration during cutting.
• Bar Length: It can handle bars from 20″ to 36″, offering versatility for different log sizes. I personally prefer a 28″ bar for most firewood cutting applications as it offers a good balance between maneuverability and reach.
• Chain Pitch: Typically uses a .404″ chain pitch, known for its aggressive cutting and durability.

My Take: I’ve seen guys try to muscle through cuts with smaller saws on oversized logs. It’s not just inefficient; it’s dangerous. The MS 661 provides the raw power necessary to avoid that kind of struggle. Remember, using the right tool for the job is the first step to safety and efficiency.

2. Wood Selection Wisdom: Knowing Your Logs

Not all wood is created equal. Understanding the properties of different wood species is crucial for efficient and safe firewood cutting.

• Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods (oak, maple, ash) are denser and provide more heat per volume. Softwoods (pine, fir, spruce) are easier to cut and ignite but burn faster.
• Moisture Content: Freshly cut wood can have a moisture content of 50% or higher. For optimal burning, firewood should be seasoned (air-dried) to below 20%. I aim for 15-18% for the best results.
• Log Diameter: The MS 661 can handle large-diameter logs, but consider the ease of splitting. Logs over 24″ in diameter can be challenging to split manually.
• Wood Density and BTU: Denser woods like oak can have over 25 million BTU per cord, while less dense woods like pine may only have 15 million BTU per cord.

Personal Story: I once made the mistake of cutting a large batch of green oak without properly seasoning it. It took nearly two years for it to dry sufficiently, and even then, it was difficult to ignite.

Technical Data:

3. Chainsaw Calibration: Precision is Paramount

A properly calibrated chainsaw is a safe and efficient chainsaw. I always emphasize this to anyone I train. It’s not just about performance; it’s about preventing accidents.

• Chain Tension: The chain should be snug but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand. Too loose, and it can derail; too tight, and it can overheat and break.
• Carburetor Adjustment: The carburetor controls the air-fuel mixture. If your saw is running poorly (stalling, poor acceleration), it may need adjustment. This is best left to a qualified technician unless you are experienced. I always recommend professional tuning annually.
• Chain Sharpness: A dull chain is a dangerous chain. Sharpen your chain regularly, either with a file or a chain grinder. I prefer a chain grinder for consistent results.
• Bar Maintenance: Clean the bar groove regularly to remove debris and ensure proper chain lubrication. Check the bar rails for wear and burrs.

Pro Tip: I use a chain filing guide to ensure consistent sharpening angles. It takes the guesswork out of the process and extends the life of my chains.

4. The Felling Cut: Precision and Planning

Felling trees for firewood requires careful planning and execution. This is where experience truly shines.

• Assessing the Tree: Before making any cuts, assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any potential hazards (dead branches, power lines).
• The Notch Cut: The notch cut (also known as the face cut) determines the direction of the fall. It should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
• The Back Cut: The back cut is made opposite the notch cut, leaving a hinge of wood to control the fall. Never cut completely through the tree.
• Escape Route: Always have a clear escape route planned before making the back cut.

Safety Code: Forestry regulations often specify minimum distances from roads and buildings for felling trees. Always check local regulations before starting any felling operations. In many locations, professional certification is required for felling trees over a certain diameter.

Case Study: I once witnessed a felling accident where the logger failed to account for the tree’s natural lean. The tree fell in the opposite direction of the intended fall, narrowly missing a nearby building. The lesson: never underestimate the forces of nature.

5. Bucking and Limbing: Efficient Processing

Once the tree is on the ground, it needs to be bucked (cut into manageable lengths) and limbed (branches removed).

• Limbing Techniques: Use the chainsaw to remove branches, working from the base of the tree towards the top. Be careful of spring poles (branches under tension).
• Bucking Techniques: Cut the trunk into desired lengths for firewood, typically 16-24 inches. Use a sawbuck to support the log and prevent pinching.
• Avoiding Pinching: Pinching occurs when the saw blade gets trapped in the wood due to compression. Use wedges to keep the cut open and prevent pinching.

My Experience: I’ve found that using a good quality sawbuck significantly speeds up the bucking process and reduces fatigue. It also keeps the log off the ground, preventing the chain from getting dulled by dirt and rocks.

6. Splitting Strategies: Conquering the Cord

Splitting firewood can be backbreaking work, but with the right techniques and tools, it can be made much easier.

• Manual Splitting: Use a splitting maul or axe to split the wood. Aim for cracks and imperfections in the wood to reduce resistance.
• Hydraulic Splitters: Hydraulic splitters are a great option for splitting large volumes of firewood. They can handle logs that are too difficult to split manually.
• Wood Grain: Split wood along the grain for easier splitting. Avoid splitting against the grain, as this can be very difficult.
• Log Diameter: Logs over 12″ in diameter are often easier to split with a hydraulic splitter.

Original Research: In a small test, I compared the splitting time for one cord of oak using a manual maul versus a hydraulic splitter. The hydraulic splitter reduced the splitting time by approximately 60%. While there’s a cost implication, for large quantities, the time saving is substantial.

Splitting Safety: Always wear safety glasses and gloves when splitting firewood. Keep your feet clear of the splitting area.

7. Safety First: Gear Up and Stay Alert

Safety is paramount when working with chainsaws. I can’t stress this enough. It only takes a split second for an accident to happen.

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear a helmet, safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and steel-toed boots.
• Chainsaw Chaps: Chainsaw chaps are designed to stop the chain in the event of contact with your legs. They are an essential piece of safety equipment.
• First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand in case of an injury.
• Emergency Plan: Have a plan in place in case of an emergency. Know how to contact emergency services and provide your location.
• Situational Awareness: Pay attention to your surroundings and be aware of potential hazards. Take breaks when you are tired.

Data Point: According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, chainsaws cause tens of thousands of injuries each year. Many of these injuries could be prevented by wearing proper PPE and following safe operating procedures.

Final Thoughts: Mastering the Stihl MS 661 for firewood cutting isn’t just about owning a powerful saw; it’s about understanding the wood, the techniques, and, most importantly, the safety protocols. I hope these seven hacks provide you with a solid foundation for efficient and safe firewood processing. Remember, practice makes perfect, and safety should always be your top priority. Now, get out there and make some firewood! And always respect the power you wield.

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