Stihl MS390 Chainsaw Review: Is It Worth Buying? (Pro Tips)
Imagine the crackling warmth of a wood-burning stove on a frosty winter evening, the scent of seasoned oak filling the air, a sense of self-sufficiency washing over you. That’s the lifestyle upgrade I’m talking about – one where you’re connected to the raw beauty and power of nature, and in control of your own comfort and energy. For many, this dream begins with a chainsaw, and for a long time, the Stihl MS390 was a contender, a workhorse in the woods.
Stihl MS390 Chainsaw Review: Is It Worth Buying? (Pro Tips)
The world of wood processing is experiencing a resurgence. Driven by concerns about energy independence, sustainable living, and a desire to reconnect with traditional skills, more and more people are taking up logging, firewood preparation, and timber processing. Globally, the firewood market alone is a multi-billion dollar industry, with demand increasing in both developed and developing nations. According to recent reports, sales of chainsaws and related equipment have seen a steady climb, particularly among homeowners and small-scale operators. However, navigating the vast array of tools and techniques can be daunting. I’ve been there, hacking away with a dull axe, wondering if there was a better way.
My own journey into the world of wood began humbly, with a borrowed axe and a pile of logs that seemed to grow larger every time I looked at them. It was a slow, back-breaking process, but it ignited a passion for working with wood that has stayed with me ever since. Over the years, I’ve learned a lot, not just about the tools and techniques, but also about the satisfaction that comes from transforming raw materials into something useful and beautiful.
This guide is designed to help you navigate this world, focusing specifically on the Stihl MS390 chainsaw. While it’s no longer in production, used models are readily available. We’ll delve deep into its capabilities, assess its suitability for various tasks, and provide you with the information you need to decide if it’s the right tool for your wood processing needs. I’ll share my experiences, the good, the bad, and the downright frustrating, so you can avoid some of the pitfalls I encountered along the way.
Understanding the Landscape: Chainsaws and Wood Processing
Before we dive into the specifics of the Stihl MS390, let’s take a step back and look at the broader context of chainsaws and wood processing.
Chainsaws vs. Axes: A Fundamental Choice
The age-old debate: chainsaw or axe? The answer, of course, depends on the task at hand.
- Axes: Ideal for splitting smaller logs, felling small trees (under 8 inches in diameter), and limbing branches. They’re quiet, require no fuel, and provide a great workout. However, they are labor-intensive and less efficient for larger jobs.
- Chainsaws: Designed for felling larger trees, bucking logs into shorter lengths, and heavy-duty limbing. They are powerful and efficient but require fuel, maintenance, and a higher level of safety awareness.
For most firewood preparation, especially involving larger logs, a chainsaw is the more practical choice. However, a good splitting axe or maul is still essential for splitting the cut logs. I’ve found that a combination of both tools provides the best balance of efficiency and versatility.
Key Concepts in Wood Processing
- Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood is freshly cut wood with a high moisture content (often 50% or more). Seasoned wood has been dried to a lower moisture content (ideally below 20%) and is much easier to burn. Burning green wood results in less heat, more smoke, and increased creosote buildup in your chimney.
- Bucking: Cutting a felled tree into shorter, more manageable lengths.
- Splitting: Dividing logs into smaller pieces suitable for burning.
- Limbing: Removing branches from a felled tree.
- Felling: The act of cutting down a tree. This is inherently dangerous and should only be attempted by trained individuals.
- Cord of Wood: A standard unit of measurement for firewood, typically 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long (128 cubic feet).
- Board Foot: A unit of measurement for lumber, equivalent to a piece of wood 1 foot long, 1 foot wide, and 1 inch thick.
Global Trends in Wood Processing and Firewood Use
- Increased Demand for Firewood: Rising energy costs and a growing interest in sustainable heating solutions have fueled a global increase in firewood demand.
- Emphasis on Sustainable Forestry Practices: Consumers are increasingly demanding firewood sourced from sustainably managed forests.
- Technological Advancements in Chainsaws: Modern chainsaws are more powerful, fuel-efficient, and safer than their predecessors. Battery-powered chainsaws are also gaining popularity for lighter tasks.
- Automation in Wood Processing: Large-scale firewood producers are increasingly using automated equipment to increase efficiency and reduce labor costs.
The Stihl MS390 Chainsaw: A Detailed Look
The Stihl MS390 is a mid-range chainsaw designed for both homeowners and professionals. While it’s no longer in production, it enjoys a reputation as a reliable and durable machine. Let’s examine its key features and specifications:
Technical Specifications:
- Engine Displacement: 64.1 cc (3.91 cu. in.)
- Engine Power: 3.1 kW (4.2 bhp)
- Weight (without bar and chain): 6.4 kg (14.1 lbs)
- Fuel Tank Capacity: 0.68 liters (23 oz)
- Oil Tank Capacity: 0.36 liters (12.2 oz)
- Recommended Bar Length: 16-20 inches
- Chain Pitch: .325″
- Chain Gauge: .063″
Key Features:
- Powerful Engine: The 64.1 cc engine provides ample power for felling medium-sized trees and bucking large logs.
- Durable Construction: Stihl is known for its robust construction, and the MS390 is no exception. It’s built to withstand the rigors of regular use.
- Easy Starting: The MS390 features a decompression valve that makes starting easier, especially in cold weather.
- Anti-Vibration System: Reduces operator fatigue by minimizing vibrations transmitted to the hands and arms.
- Side-Mounted Chain Tensioner: Allows for easy chain tensioning without the need for special tools.
- Automatic Chain Lubrication: Ensures proper chain lubrication for smooth cutting and extended chain life.
- Master Control Lever: Combines choke, throttle, and on/off switch into a single, convenient control.
Pros:
- Reliable and Durable: The MS390 is known for its longevity and ability to withstand heavy use.
- Powerful Engine: Provides ample power for a wide range of tasks.
- Easy to Start: The decompression valve makes starting relatively easy.
- Good Value for Money: Used MS390s are often available at a reasonable price.
Cons:
- Heavier than Newer Models: Compared to newer chainsaws, the MS390 is relatively heavy, which can lead to fatigue during extended use.
- Emissions: Being an older model, it doesn’t meet the stringent emissions standards of newer chainsaws.
- Parts Availability: While parts are generally available, they may become harder to find in the future.
- Not Ideal for Small Tasks: The MS390’s power and weight make it less suitable for light tasks like pruning small branches.
My Personal Experience with the MS390 (or Similar Models)
I remember one particularly challenging firewood season where my primary chainsaw, a similar model from Stihl, was constantly breaking down. I ended up borrowing an MS390 from a friend, and it was a lifesaver. It chewed through logs that my own saw struggled with, and it kept running reliably, even in freezing temperatures. That experience solidified my respect for the Stihl brand and the MS390’s reputation as a dependable workhorse.
Is the Stihl MS390 Right for You? A Decision-Making Framework
Deciding whether the Stihl MS390 is the right chainsaw for you depends on several factors:
1. Your Intended Use:
- Occasional Firewood Cutting: If you only need a chainsaw for occasional firewood cutting, the MS390 might be overkill. A smaller, lighter chainsaw would be more appropriate.
- Regular Firewood Cutting: If you cut firewood regularly, the MS390 could be a good choice, especially if you deal with larger logs.
- Felling Small to Medium-Sized Trees: The MS390 is capable of felling trees up to 18 inches in diameter.
- Land Clearing: For extensive land clearing, a more powerful chainsaw might be necessary.
- Milling: The MS390 is not ideal for milling lumber due to its weight and lack of specialized features.
2. Your Budget:
- Used MS390s can be found for anywhere from $200 to $400, depending on their condition.
- Factor in the cost of maintenance, repairs, and safety equipment (helmet, ear protection, eye protection, chaps, gloves).
3. Your Physical Condition:
- The MS390 is a relatively heavy chainsaw. If you’re not in good physical condition, you may find it tiring to use for extended periods.
- Consider the anti-vibration system, but remember that even with this feature, prolonged use can still lead to fatigue.
4. Your Mechanical Skills:
- Chainsaws require regular maintenance, including chain sharpening, air filter cleaning, and spark plug replacement.
- If you’re not comfortable performing these tasks yourself, you’ll need to factor in the cost of professional servicing.
5. Alternatives to the Stihl MS390:
- Stihl MS271 Farm Boss: A newer, lighter, and more fuel-efficient option for homeowners.
- Husqvarna 455 Rancher: A popular and versatile chainsaw with a similar power output to the MS390.
- Echo CS-590 Timber Wolf: A powerful and durable chainsaw that offers excellent value for money.
- Battery-Powered Chainsaws: Consider a battery-powered chainsaw for lighter tasks and increased convenience. Brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, and Milwaukee offer excellent options.
Data-Backed Insights:
- A study by Oregon State University found that using a properly sharpened chainsaw can increase cutting efficiency by up to 30%.
- Research from the University of Maine showed that firewood seasoned for at least six months has a 50% higher BTU (British Thermal Unit) output than green wood.
Case Study: The Small-Scale Firewood Producer
Consider a small-scale firewood producer who cuts and sells firewood as a side business. They need a reliable chainsaw that can handle regular use, but they also need to keep their costs down. A used Stihl MS390 could be a good option for them, provided they’re comfortable performing their own maintenance and repairs. However, they should also consider the long-term cost of fuel and oil, as well as the potential for future repairs.
Step-by-Step Guide: Preparing Firewood with a Chainsaw
Let’s get down to brass tacks. Here’s a step-by-step guide to preparing firewood using a chainsaw, with a focus on safety and efficiency.
Step 1: Safety First
- Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear a helmet with a face shield, ear protection, eye protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and sturdy boots.
- Clear the Work Area: Remove any obstacles from the work area, including branches, rocks, and debris.
- Check the Chainsaw: Ensure the chainsaw is in good working order, with a sharp chain, properly adjusted tension, and adequate fuel and oil.
- Know Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings, including overhead power lines, trees that could fall unexpectedly, and other people in the area.
- Never Work Alone: Always have someone nearby in case of an emergency.
- Take Breaks: Avoid fatigue by taking regular breaks.
Step 2: Felling the Tree (If Necessary)
- Assess the Tree: Before felling a tree, carefully assess its size, lean, and any potential hazards.
- Plan Your Escape Route: Identify a clear escape route that is at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
- Make the Notch Cut: Cut a notch on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
- Make the Back Cut: Cut the back cut slightly above the notch cut, leaving a hinge of wood to control the direction of the fall.
- Wedge (Optional): Use a felling wedge to help push the tree over in the desired direction.
- Retreat Safely: As the tree begins to fall, retreat quickly and safely along your planned escape route.
Felling Trees Safely: A Deep Dive
Felling trees is one of the most dangerous aspects of wood processing. Here’s a more detailed breakdown of the process:
- Tree Assessment: Before you even think about starting the chainsaw, take a good look at the tree. Is it leaning in a particular direction? Are there any dead or broken branches that could fall unexpectedly? Is the ground around the tree stable? All of these factors will influence your felling strategy.
- Planning the Fall: Decide which direction you want the tree to fall. Ideally, you want to fell the tree in a direction that is clear of obstacles and that will make it easier to buck and split the logs.
- The Notch (or Face Cut): This cut determines the direction of the fall. It’s a V-shaped cut that should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter. The angle of the notch will influence the trajectory of the falling tree. A deeper notch will cause the tree to fall faster and with more force.
- The Hinge: This is the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. It’s crucial for controlling the fall of the tree. The width of the hinge will determine how quickly the tree falls. A wider hinge will slow the fall and provide more control.
- The Back Cut: This cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly above the notch. It’s important to leave the hinge intact until the very end.
- Using Wedges: If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction, or if you’re concerned about it falling back on you, use felling wedges to help push it over. Drive the wedges into the back cut until the tree starts to lean in the desired direction.
- The Escape Route: Before you make the final cut, make sure you have a clear escape route planned. This should be a path that is at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
- The Final Cut: Once you’re ready, make the final cut through the hinge. As the tree starts to fall, retreat quickly and safely along your escape route.
Important Considerations:
- Wind: Wind can significantly affect the direction of the fall. Be extra cautious when felling trees in windy conditions.
- Hangers: These are broken branches that are caught in the tree’s crown. They can be extremely dangerous, as they can fall unexpectedly.
- Spring Poles: These are small trees that are bent over by larger trees. They can spring back with tremendous force if they are cut.
- Underbrush: Thick underbrush can make it difficult to see hazards on the ground. Clear the area around the tree before you start felling.
Step 3: Limbing the Tree
- Work from the Base to the Top: Start at the base of the tree and work your way towards the top, removing branches as you go.
- Use Proper Cutting Techniques: Use the “push” cut for branches that are under tension and the “pull” cut for branches that are under compression.
- Be Aware of Kickback: Kickback occurs when the chain catches on the wood and throws the chainsaw back towards the operator. Avoid kickback by using proper cutting techniques and keeping the chain sharp.
- Remove Small Branches with an Axe or Hatchet: For smaller branches, an axe or hatchet can be more efficient than a chainsaw.
De-Limbing Procedures: A Safety-First Approach
Limbing, the process of removing branches from a felled tree, can be just as dangerous as felling the tree itself. Here’s a breakdown of how to do it safely and efficiently:
- Assess the Situation: Before you start limbing, take a moment to assess the situation. Are there any branches that are under tension? Are there any spring poles that could snap back? Are there any obstacles in your work area?
- Position Yourself Carefully: Position yourself so that you are not in the path of any falling branches. Avoid standing directly above or below branches that you are cutting.
- Use the Right Tool: For small branches, an axe or a pruning saw may be sufficient. For larger branches, you’ll need a chainsaw.
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Cutting Techniques: There are two main cutting techniques for limbing: the push cut and the pull cut.
- Push Cut: This is used for branches that are under tension. The chainsaw is pushed into the branch from the top.
- Pull Cut: This is used for branches that are under compression. The chainsaw is pulled into the branch from the bottom.
- Avoiding Pinching: Pinching occurs when the saw blade gets stuck in the wood. To avoid pinching, make sure the branch is supported on both sides of the cut.
- Working from the Base to the Top: Start limbing at the base of the tree and work your way towards the top. This will help prevent branches from falling on you.
- Be Aware of Kickback: Kickback is a sudden, violent reaction that can occur when the chainsaw blade hits a knot or other obstruction. To avoid kickback, keep the chain sharp and avoid cutting with the tip of the blade.
- Take Breaks: Limbing can be physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
Step 4: Bucking the Logs
- Measure and Mark: Measure the logs to the desired length and mark them with chalk or paint. The standard length for firewood is 16 inches, but you may need to adjust this depending on the size of your wood stove or fireplace.
- Support the Log: Use log jacks or other supports to keep the log off the ground. This will prevent the chain from hitting the ground and dulling.
- Use Proper Cutting Techniques: Use the “overbuck” and “underbuck” techniques to avoid pinching the chain.
- Be Aware of Tension: Be aware of any tension in the log, and cut accordingly.
Bucking Logs: Techniques for Efficiency and Safety
Bucking, or cutting logs into shorter, more manageable lengths, is a critical step in firewood preparation. Here’s a breakdown of the techniques involved:
- Planning the Cuts: Before you start cutting, take a moment to plan your cuts. Consider the size of your wood stove or fireplace and cut the logs to the appropriate length. A standard length for firewood is 16 inches, but you may need to adjust this depending on your specific needs.
- Supporting the Logs: It’s important to support the logs so that they don’t roll or shift while you’re cutting them. You can use log jacks, sawhorses, or even smaller logs to create a stable platform.
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The Overbuck Method: This is used for logs that are supported at both ends.
- Make a cut about one-third of the way through the top of the log.
- Then, make a cut from the bottom of the log to meet the first cut.
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The Underbuck Method: This is used for logs that are supported at one end.
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Make a cut about one-third of the way through the bottom of the log.
- Then, make a cut from the top of the log to meet the first cut.
- Avoiding Pinching: Pinching occurs when the saw blade gets stuck in the wood. To avoid pinching, make sure the log is properly supported and use the appropriate cutting technique.
- Cutting Logs on the Ground: If you have to cut logs on the ground, be extra careful to avoid hitting the ground with the saw blade. This will dull the chain and can also cause kickback.
- Dealing with Tension: If the log is under tension, it may spring apart when you cut it. To avoid this, make a shallow cut on the tension side of the log before making the final cut.
- Safety First: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, ear protection, and chainsaw chaps.
Step 5: Splitting the Logs
- Use a Splitting Axe or Maul: A splitting axe or maul is designed for splitting logs.
- Choose a Safe Splitting Area: Choose a flat, stable area for splitting logs.
- Use a Tire or Splitting Block: Place the log on a tire or splitting block to raise it off the ground.
- Aim for the Center: Aim for the center of the log and swing the axe or maul with a controlled motion.
- Use Wedges if Necessary: If the log is difficult to split, use wedges to help break it apart.
Splitting Logs: From Axe to Hydraulic Splitter
Splitting logs is the final step in preparing firewood. Here’s a look at the different methods and techniques you can use:
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The Axe Method: This is the traditional method of splitting logs.
- Use a splitting axe or a maul.
- Choose a safe splitting area.
- Place the log on a splitting block or a tire.
- Aim for the center of the log and swing the axe or maul with a controlled motion.
- Use wedges if necessary.
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The Hydraulic Splitter Method: This is a more modern method of splitting logs.
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Use a hydraulic log splitter.
- Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Wear appropriate safety gear.
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Splitting Techniques: There are a few different splitting techniques you can use:
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The Direct Hit: This is the simplest technique. Simply aim for the center of the log and swing the axe or maul.
- The Edge Split: This is used for logs that are difficult to split. Aim for the edge of the log and swing the axe or maul.
- The Wedge Split: This is used for logs that are extremely difficult to split. Drive a wedge into the log and then swing the axe or maul at the wedge.
- Dealing with Knots: Knots can make logs difficult to split. To deal with knots, try splitting the log from the opposite side. You can also use wedges to split the log around the knot.
- Safety First: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including eye protection, gloves, and steel-toed boots.
Step 6: Stacking and Seasoning the Firewood
- Choose a Sunny and Windy Location: Choose a location that is exposed to sunlight and wind to promote drying.
- Stack the Wood Loosely: Stack the wood loosely to allow for air circulation.
- Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up.
- Cover the Top of the Stack: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or other waterproof material to protect it from rain and snow.
- Season for at Least Six Months: Allow the wood to season for at least six months, or preferably a year, before burning it.
Firewood Stacking: Optimizing for Drying
Properly stacking firewood is crucial for seasoning it effectively. Here’s a guide to optimizing your firewood stacks for drying:
- Location, Location, Location: Choose a sunny and windy location for your firewood stack. Sunlight and wind will help to evaporate moisture from the wood.
- Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil. You can use pallets, cinder blocks, or even scrap lumber to create a platform.
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Stacking Methods: There are several different stacking methods you can use:
- The Criss-Cross Stack: This is a simple and effective method. Alternate the direction of the logs in each layer to create a stable stack.
- The Holzhaufen: This is a traditional German method that involves stacking the wood in a circular pattern around a central pole.
- The Linear Stack: This is a simple method that involves stacking the wood in a straight line.
- Spacing: Leave some space between the logs to allow for air circulation.
- Covering the Stack: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or other waterproof material to protect it from rain and snow. However, leave the sides of the stack open to allow for air circulation.
- Seasoning Time: Allow the wood to season for at least six months, or preferably a year, before burning it.
- Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood before burning it. The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%.
Data Points and Statistics:
- Firewood seasoned for 6-12 months typically has a moisture content of 20-25%.
- Kiln-dried firewood can have a moisture content as low as 8-10%.
- Burning seasoned firewood can increase the efficiency of your wood stove by up to 50%.
Troubleshooting and Common Pitfalls:
- Chainsaw Won’t Start: Check the fuel, spark plug, and air filter.
- Chainsaw Chain Dulls Quickly: Sharpen the chain regularly.
- Log is Difficult to Split: Use wedges or try splitting from the opposite side.
- Firewood is Not Drying Properly: Choose a more sunny and windy location, and stack the wood loosely.
Cost and Budgeting Considerations
Preparing firewood can be a cost-effective way to heat your home, but it’s important to factor in all the associated costs:
- Chainsaw Purchase or Rental: The cost of a chainsaw can range from a few hundred dollars to over a thousand dollars.
- Safety Equipment: Budget for a helmet, ear protection, eye protection, chaps, gloves, and sturdy boots.
- Fuel and Oil: Chainsaws require fuel and oil to operate.
- Maintenance and Repairs: Chainsaws require regular maintenance and occasional repairs.
- Splitting Axe or Maul: A good splitting axe or maul can cost $50-$100.
- Log Splitter (Optional): A hydraulic log splitter can cost several hundred dollars.
- Transportation: You may need to transport the logs from the woods to your home.
- Storage: You’ll need a place to store the firewood while it’s seasoning.
- Time: Preparing firewood takes time and effort.
Resource Management Tips:
- Source Wood Locally: Source wood from local forests or tree services to reduce transportation costs.
- Split Wood in the Off-Season: Split wood in the off-season when you have more time.
- Season Wood Properly: Properly seasoned wood burns more efficiently, reducing the amount of wood you need to burn.
- Maintain Your Equipment: Regularly maintain your equipment to extend its lifespan and reduce repair costs.
Troubleshooting the Stihl MS390
Even the most reliable chainsaw can experience problems from time to time. Here’s a troubleshooting guide for the Stihl MS390:
Problem: Chainsaw won’t start.
- Possible Causes:
- Empty fuel tank.
- Stale fuel.
- Flooded engine.
- Dirty air filter.
- Fouled spark plug.
- Faulty ignition module.
- Solutions:
- Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel.
- Replace the fuel filter.
- Remove the spark plug and dry it.
- Clean or replace the air filter.
- Replace the spark plug.
- Take the chainsaw to a qualified repair technician.
Problem: Chainsaw runs poorly.
- Possible Causes:
- Dirty air filter.
- Fouled spark plug.
- Incorrect carburetor settings.
- Clogged fuel filter.
- Worn piston rings.
- Solutions:
- Clean or replace the air filter.
- Replace the spark plug.
- Adjust the carburetor settings.
- Replace the fuel filter.
- Take the chainsaw to a qualified repair technician.
Problem: Chainsaw chain won’t cut.
- Possible Causes:
- Dull chain.
- Incorrect chain tension.
- Worn drive sprocket.
- Insufficient chain lubrication.
- Solutions:
- Sharpen the chain.
- Adjust the chain tension.
- Replace the drive sprocket.
- Check the oil level and ensure the chain is being properly lubricated.
Problem: Chainsaw chain keeps coming off.
- Possible Causes:
- Incorrect chain tension.
- Worn chain.
- Worn bar.
- Loose chain tensioner.
- Solutions:
- Adjust the chain tension.
- Replace the chain.
- Replace the bar.
- Tighten the chain tensioner.
Problem: Chainsaw is vibrating excessively.
- Possible Causes:
- Loose bolts.
- Worn anti-vibration mounts.
- Damaged clutch.
- Solutions:
- Tighten all bolts.
- Replace the anti-vibration mounts.
- Take the chainsaw to a qualified repair technician.
Common Pitfalls to Avoid:
- Neglecting Safety: Always prioritize safety when operating a chainsaw.
- Using Dull Chains: Dull chains are dangerous and inefficient.
- Improper Chain Tension: Incorrect chain tension can damage the chain and bar.
- Neglecting Maintenance: Regular maintenance is essential for keeping your chainsaw running smoothly.
- Overloading the Chainsaw: Don’t try to cut logs that are too large for the chainsaw.
Next Steps and Additional Resources
If you’ve decided that the Stihl MS390 is the right chainsaw for you, here are some next steps:
- Find a Used MS390 for Sale: Check online marketplaces like Craigslist, eBay, and Facebook Marketplace.
- Inspect the Chainsaw Carefully: Before you buy a used chainsaw, inspect it carefully for signs of wear and tear.
- Negotiate the Price: Don’t be afraid to negotiate the price.
- Purchase Safety Equipment: Make sure you have all the necessary safety equipment before you start using the chainsaw.
- Read the Owner’s Manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s operation and maintenance procedures.
- Practice Safe Cutting Techniques: Practice safe cutting techniques in a safe and controlled environment.
Additional Resources:
- Stihl Website: The Stihl website (www.stihl.com) provides information on their current chainsaw models and accessories.
- Chainsaw Forums: Online chainsaw forums are a great place to ask questions and get advice from other chainsaw users.
- Local Tree Services: Local tree services can provide you with a source of logs for firewood.
- Firewood Suppliers: Local firewood suppliers can provide you with seasoned firewood.
- Equipment Rental Services: Equipment rental services can provide you with access to log splitters and other wood processing equipment.
Suppliers of Logging Tools and Drying Equipment:
- Baileys: (www.baileysonline.com) – A wide selection of logging tools, chainsaws, and safety equipment.
- Northern Tool + Equipment: (www.northerntool.com) – A variety of tools and equipment for wood processing.
- Amazon: (www.amazon.com) – A convenient source for a wide range of logging tools and equipment.
- Local Equipment Rental Companies: Search online for equipment rental companies in your area.
The journey of transforming raw logs into a warm, inviting fire is a rewarding one. Whether you choose the Stihl MS390 or another chainsaw, remember to prioritize safety, practice proper techniques, and enjoy the process. The satisfaction of providing your own heat and connecting with the natural world is an experience that’s hard to beat. As they say, “Wood warms you twice: once when you cut it, and again when you burn it.” Now get out there and make some firewood!