Stihl MS310 Chainsaw: Wood Processing Tips (5 Pro Techniques)

Ah, the scent of freshly cut wood! There’s something deeply primal and satisfying about working with timber, a tradition passed down through generations. My grandfather, a seasoned logger in the Pacific Northwest, first put a chainsaw in my hands when I was barely tall enough to see over a felled tree. He taught me not just how to cut, but how to listen to the wood, to respect its strength, and to understand its potential. And while the tools have evolved, that core connection to the craft remains.

Today, I want to share some wood processing tips specifically tailored for those of you wielding a Stihl MS310 chainsaw, a reliable workhorse for many. We’ll delve into pro techniques that will not only improve your efficiency but also enhance the quality of your finished product, whether you’re preparing firewood, milling lumber, or tackling any other wood-related project. I’ll be drawing from my experiences, research, and lessons learned over years of hands-on work. Let’s get started!

Understanding Your Stihl MS310 and Wood Basics

Before we dive into specific techniques, let’s make sure we’re on the same page regarding the MS310 and some fundamental wood properties.

The Stihl MS310: A Reliable Workhorse

The Stihl MS310 is a mid-range chainsaw known for its balance of power and durability. It’s a popular choice for homeowners and professionals alike due to its reliability and relatively easy maintenance. Here are some key specifications to keep in mind:

• Engine Displacement: Approximately 59 cc (cubic centimeters)
• Power Output: Around 3.1 kW (kilowatts), or roughly 4.2 horsepower
• Guide Bar Length: Typically ranges from 16 to 20 inches (40 to 50 cm)
• Weight (without fuel and bar): Roughly 12.3 lbs (5.6 kg)

Maintenance is Key: To ensure your MS310 performs optimally, regular maintenance is crucial. This includes:

• Chain Sharpening: A sharp chain is essential for efficient and safe cutting. I recommend sharpening your chain after every few hours of use, or whenever you notice a decrease in cutting performance. More on this later.
• Air Filter Cleaning: A clean air filter ensures proper airflow to the engine. Clean it regularly, especially when working in dusty conditions.
• Spark Plug Inspection: Inspect the spark plug periodically and replace it as needed.
• Fuel Mixture: Use the correct fuel-to-oil mixture as specified by Stihl (typically 50:1). Always use high-quality two-stroke oil.
• Bar and Chain Oiling: Ensure the chain is properly lubricated during operation to prevent overheating and wear.

Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: The Core Difference

Understanding the difference between green wood and seasoned wood is fundamental to wood processing.

• Green Wood: This is freshly cut wood with a high moisture content. It can range from 30% to over 100% moisture content (dry basis), depending on the species. Green wood is easier to split and shape but is prone to shrinking, warping, and fungal decay as it dries.
• Seasoned Wood: This is wood that has been allowed to dry, typically to a moisture content of 15-20% or lower for firewood and 6-12% for furniture making. Seasoned wood is more stable, burns more efficiently (if firewood), and is less susceptible to decay.

Why Does Moisture Content Matter?

The moisture content directly affects:

• Weight: Green wood is significantly heavier than seasoned wood.
• Strength: While some believe green wood is stronger, seasoned wood has a higher strength-to-weight ratio.
• Workability: Green wood is easier to split and carve, while seasoned wood is better for fine joinery.
• Burning Efficiency (for Firewood): Green wood burns poorly, producing more smoke and less heat.

My Personal Experience: I once tried to build a bookshelf using freshly cut pine. I was thrilled with how easily it went together. A few weeks later, as the wood dried, the joints loosened, the shelves warped, and the whole thing became a wobbly mess. Lesson learned: always season your wood before using it for projects where stability is crucial!

Pro Technique #1: Precision Felling for Optimal Wood Utilization

Felling a tree is more than just cutting it down; it’s about controlling its fall to minimize damage to the tree itself, surrounding vegetation, and, most importantly, yourself. Precision felling also sets the stage for efficient wood processing.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Assess the Tree and Surroundings:
   • Lean: Determine the tree’s natural lean. It will naturally fall in that direction.
   • Branches: Identify any heavy branches that could influence the fall.
   • Obstacles: Note any obstacles like other trees, power lines, or buildings.
   • Escape Routes: Plan two clear escape routes at a 45-degree angle away from the anticipated fall direction.
   • Wind: Pay attention to wind direction, as it can significantly alter the tree’s trajectory.
2. Prepare the Area:
   • Clear brush and debris around the base of the tree to provide a clear working area and escape routes.
   • Ensure you have all necessary tools: chainsaw, wedges, felling lever, and appropriate safety gear (helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps).
3. The Notch (or Face Cut):
   • This is the most critical step. The notch determines the direction of the fall.
   • Types of Notches:
     • Conventional Notch (Open Face): The most common type. It consists of a top cut at a 45-degree angle and a bottom cut that meets the top cut, creating an open-faced notch. The depth of the notch should be about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
     • Humboldt Notch: Used for larger trees. The top cut is horizontal, and the bottom cut is angled upwards to meet it.
     • Kerf Notch: A more advanced technique used for very large trees. It involves multiple cuts to create a wider notch.
   • Execution: Make the top cut first, followed by the bottom cut. Ensure the two cuts meet precisely to create a clean, defined notch.
4. The Back Cut:
   • This cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch.
   • Height: The back cut should be made slightly above the bottom of the notch (about 1-2 inches higher). This creates a “hinge” of wood that controls the fall.
   • Leave a Hinge: Never cut completely through the tree. Leave a hinge of wood (about 10% of the tree’s diameter) to guide the fall. Cutting through the hinge can cause the tree to fall unpredictably.
   • Wedges: As you make the back cut, insert wedges into the cut to prevent the tree from pinching the saw and to help direct the fall. Use plastic or wooden wedges, not metal ones, as metal wedges can damage your chainsaw chain if you accidentally hit them.
5. Felling the Tree:
   • Once the back cut is nearly complete and the wedges are in place, use a felling lever or additional wedges to gently push the tree over in the desired direction.
   • Shout a Warning: Before the tree falls, shout a warning (“Timber!”) to alert anyone in the area.
   • Escape: Immediately move away from the falling tree along your pre-planned escape route.

Data and Insights: Studies have shown that proper felling techniques can reduce timber waste by up to 15% by minimizing splitting and damage to the log. This translates to significant cost savings for logging operations.

Case Study: I once witnessed a novice logger attempt to fell a large oak tree without a proper notch. The tree fell in an unexpected direction, narrowly missing a parked truck. This underscores the importance of meticulous planning and execution when felling trees.

Pro Technique #2: Efficient Bucking and Limbing Techniques

Once the tree is on the ground, the next step is bucking (cutting the trunk into manageable lengths) and limbing (removing the branches).

Limbing: Removing Branches Safely and Efficiently

1. Safety First: Always work from the base of the tree towards the top. This minimizes the risk of branches springing back and hitting you.
2. Stance: Maintain a stable stance and keep both feet firmly planted on the ground.
3. Cutting Technique:
   • Tension: Be aware of branches under tension. Cut on the compression side first to prevent the branch from pinching the saw.
   • Small Branches: For small branches, a single cut may suffice.
   • Larger Branches: For larger branches, use a three-cut method:
     • Undercut: Make a shallow undercut about 1/3 of the way through the branch, a few inches away from the trunk.
     • Top Cut: Make a top cut a few inches further out from the undercut. This will cause the branch to break off cleanly.
     • Final Cut: Make a final cut flush with the trunk to remove the remaining stub.
4. Avoid Cutting into the Trunk: Be careful not to damage the trunk when removing branches.

Bucking: Cutting Logs to Length

1. Planning is Key: Before you start cutting, determine the desired lengths of your logs. This will depend on your intended use (firewood, lumber, etc.). For firewood, I typically cut logs to 16-18 inches in length.
2. Support the Log: Ensure the log is properly supported to prevent it from pinching the saw. Use log stands, other logs, or wedges to create stable cutting points.
3. Cutting Techniques:
   • Log on the Ground:
     • One Cut Method: If the log is resting on the ground, make a partial cut from the top, then roll the log over and complete the cut from the opposite side. Be careful not to let the saw hit the ground.
     • Two Cut Method: Make two angled cuts from the top, meeting in the middle. This is useful for smaller logs.
   • Log Supported on Both Ends:
     • Cut from the Top: If the log is supported on both ends, cut from the top. This will prevent the log from splitting as it is cut.
   • Log Supported on One End:
     • Undercut First: If the log is supported on one end, make an undercut first to prevent the log from splitting. Then, complete the cut from the top.
4. Avoiding Pinching: Pinching occurs when the weight of the log closes the cut and traps the saw. To avoid pinching:
   • Use wedges to keep the cut open.
   • Cut from the tension side of the log.
   • Ensure the log is properly supported.

Measurements and Specifications: When cutting firewood, consistency is key. I use a simple jig made from a piece of wood cut to the desired length (16-18 inches) to ensure all my logs are uniform. This makes stacking and burning much easier.

Strategic Advantages: Efficient bucking and limbing not only save time and effort but also reduce the risk of injury. Proper techniques minimize strain on your body and prevent kickback.

Pro Technique #3: Chain Sharpening: Maintaining Peak Performance

A sharp chainsaw chain is essential for safe and efficient cutting. A dull chain requires more force, increases the risk of kickback, and produces more sawdust than chips.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Tools: You will need:
   • Chainsaw File: Use a round file that matches the size of your chain’s cutters. The file size is usually stamped on the chain.
   • File Guide: A file guide helps you maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
   • Flat File: For filing the depth gauges (rakers).
   • Depth Gauge Tool: A tool to measure the height of the depth gauges.
   • Vice: A small vice to hold the chainsaw bar steady.
2. Preparation:
   • Secure the chainsaw bar in the vice.
   • Engage the chain brake.
3. Sharpening the Cutters:
   • Angle: Use the file guide to maintain the correct filing angle. This is usually marked on the file guide.
   • Direction: File from the inside of the cutter outwards.
   • Consistency: Use the same number of strokes for each cutter to ensure they are all sharpened equally.
   • Check: After sharpening each cutter, check the sharpness by running your finger (carefully!) along the cutting edge. It should feel sharp and grab your fingernail.
4. Filing the Depth Gauges (Rakers):
   • Purpose: The depth gauges control how much the cutter bites into the wood. If they are too high, the chain will not cut efficiently. If they are too low, the chain will be too aggressive and prone to kickback.
   • Measurement: Use the depth gauge tool to measure the height of the depth gauges.
   • Filing: If the depth gauges are too high, use the flat file to file them down until they are flush with the depth gauge tool.
   • Rounding: After filing the depth gauges, use the flat file to slightly round the front edge of the depth gauges. This helps prevent kickback.
5. Final Check:
   • Rotate the chain and inspect all the cutters to ensure they are all sharpened equally.
   • Check the depth gauges again to ensure they are at the correct height.
6. Lubrication:
   • After sharpening, lubricate the chain with chainsaw oil.

Data and Insights: Studies have shown that a properly sharpened chain can increase cutting efficiency by up to 30%. This not only saves time and effort but also reduces fuel consumption and wear on your chainsaw.

My Personal Experience: I used to neglect chain sharpening, thinking it was a tedious task. But after I started sharpening my chain regularly, I was amazed at the difference in performance. My chainsaw cut through wood like butter, and I was able to work much more efficiently.

Pro Technique #4: Wood Splitting Techniques for Firewood Preparation

Splitting firewood can be a physically demanding task, but with the right techniques and tools, it can be made much easier and safer.

Tools:

• Splitting Axe: A heavy axe with a wide head designed for splitting wood. I prefer a 6-8 lb splitting axe.
• Maul: A heavier tool than a splitting axe, with a blunt head. Mauls are ideal for splitting large, knotty logs.
• Wedges: Steel or plastic wedges can be used to split stubborn logs.
• Sledgehammer: Used to drive wedges into logs.
• Log Splitter (Hydraulic): A powered machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split logs. This is the most efficient option for splitting large quantities of firewood.

Step-by-Step Guide (Using a Splitting Axe or Maul):

1. Safety First:
   • Wear safety glasses and gloves.
   • Work on a stable surface, such as a chopping block.
   • Ensure there are no obstructions in your swing path.
   • Keep your feet firmly planted on the ground.
2. Stance:
   • Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart.
   • Grip the axe or maul with both hands, keeping your hands close together.
3. Swing:
   • Raise the axe or maul over your head, keeping your back straight.
   • Swing down with force, aiming for the center of the log.
   • Use your legs and core to generate power.
4. Follow Through:
   • Follow through with your swing, allowing the axe or maul to continue moving downwards after it hits the log.
5. Stubborn Logs:
   • If the axe or maul gets stuck in the log, use a wedge and sledgehammer to split the log.
   • Drive the wedge into the log near the axe or maul head.
   • Continue driving the wedge until the log splits.

Using a Hydraulic Log Splitter:

1. Safety First:
   • Read and understand the manufacturer’s instructions.
   • Wear safety glasses and gloves.
   • Keep your hands and feet clear of the splitting wedge.
2. Operation:
   • Place the log on the log splitter bed.
   • Position the log so that the splitting wedge will hit the center of the log.
   • Engage the hydraulic ram to push the log against the splitting wedge.
   • If the log does not split on the first attempt, reposition it and try again.

Wood Type Selection:

• Hardwoods: Hardwoods like oak, maple, and beech are denser and burn longer than softwoods. They are ideal for heating homes.
• Softwoods: Softwoods like pine, fir, and spruce are easier to split and ignite but burn faster. They are good for starting fires.

Drying Firewood:

• Stacking: Stack firewood in a single row, allowing air to circulate freely.
• Location: Choose a sunny, windy location.
• Elevation: Elevate the firewood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil. I use pallets for this purpose.
• Covering: Cover the top of the firewood pile to protect it from rain and snow.
• Drying Time: Allow firewood to dry for at least six months, or preferably a year, before burning it.

Measurements and Statistics: The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%. You can use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your firewood.

Case Study: I once helped a friend prepare firewood for the winter. He had a large pile of freshly cut oak logs. We used a hydraulic log splitter to split the logs and then stacked them in a single row in a sunny location. After six months, the firewood was dry and ready to burn. He saved a significant amount of money on heating bills that winter.

Benefits and Strategic Advantages: Using a hydraulic log splitter significantly reduces the physical strain of splitting firewood, allowing you to process more wood in less time. Proper drying techniques ensure that your firewood burns efficiently and produces maximum heat.

Pro Technique #5: Milling Lumber with Your Chainsaw (Emergency Situations and Small-Scale Projects)

While a dedicated sawmill is the ideal tool for producing lumber, a chainsaw can be used for milling lumber in emergency situations or for small-scale projects. This technique requires specialized equipment and a steady hand.

Equipment:

• Chainsaw Mill Attachment: This is a frame that attaches to your chainsaw and guides it along a log, producing a flat, even cut. There are various types of chainsaw mill attachments available, ranging from simple to more complex designs.
• Guide Rails: These are used to create a flat, level surface for the chainsaw mill to ride on. You can use planks of wood or metal rails.
• Ladders or Scaffolding: For supporting the guide rails.
• Safety Gear: Helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Preparation:
   • Select a straight, sound log.
   • Remove any bark or debris from the log.
   • Set up the guide rails on ladders or scaffolding, ensuring they are level and parallel.
   • Attach the chainsaw mill to your chainsaw.
2. First Cut (Slabbing):
   • The first cut, called slabbing, is used to create a flat surface on the log.
   • Position the chainsaw mill on the guide rails and start cutting.
   • Move the chainsaw mill slowly and steadily along the log, allowing the chainsaw to do the work.
   • The first slab will be uneven, but it will provide a flat surface for subsequent cuts.
3. Subsequent Cuts:
   • After the first cut, you can remove the guide rails and use the flat surface of the log as a guide.
   • Adjust the chainsaw mill to the desired thickness of the lumber.
   • Make subsequent cuts, moving the chainsaw mill slowly and steadily along the log.
4. Edging:
   • After milling the lumber, you can use a chainsaw or table saw to edge the boards, creating straight, uniform edges.

Wood Type Considerations:

• Softwoods: Softwoods are generally easier to mill with a chainsaw than hardwoods.
• Hardwoods: Milling hardwoods with a chainsaw requires more power and a sharper chain.

Technical Details: The thickness of the lumber you can mill with a chainsaw is limited by the length of your chainsaw bar. A longer bar allows you to mill thicker lumber.

Costs: Chainsaw mill attachments can range in price from $100 to $500 or more, depending on the complexity of the design.

Skill Levels Required: Milling lumber with a chainsaw requires a high level of skill and experience. It is important to practice on smaller logs before attempting to mill larger logs.

Benefits and Strategic Advantages: Milling lumber with a chainsaw allows you to produce lumber from logs that would otherwise be wasted. It is a useful technique for emergency situations or for small-scale projects where a dedicated sawmill is not available.

Original Case Study: I once used a chainsaw mill to mill lumber from a fallen pine tree on my property. I used the lumber to build a small shed. While it was a time-consuming process, it saved me a significant amount of money on building materials.

Practical Next Steps and Implementation Guidance

Now that you have a solid understanding of these five pro techniques, it’s time to put them into practice. Here’s some practical guidance to help you get started:

• Start Small: Don’t try to tackle everything at once. Begin with a small project, such as preparing a small pile of firewood or felling a small tree.
• Practice Makes Perfect: The more you practice these techniques, the better you will become.
• Seek Guidance: Don’t be afraid to ask for help from experienced woodworkers or loggers.
• Invest in Quality Tools: Quality tools will make your work easier and safer.
• Prioritize Safety: Always prioritize safety when working with chainsaws and other wood processing equipment.
• Continuous Learning: Stay up-to-date on the latest techniques and safety standards.

Remember, woodworking and wood processing are skills that are honed over time. Be patient, persistent, and always prioritize safety. Happy cutting!

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