Stihl MS310 Chainsaw Benefits (5 Pro Tips for Oak Firewood)

I remember one winter, not so long ago, when my woodpile looked like a monument to good intentions gone wrong. Half-rotted logs slumped against each other, a breeding ground for who-knows-what, and the meager stack of usable firewood barely made it through a week. My back ached just looking at it, a testament to the inefficient, haphazard way I’d been approaching firewood prep for years. Now, picture this: The following winter, the scene was completely different. Neat rows of seasoned oak stretched out, crackling merrily in the fireplace, radiating warmth and satisfaction. The transformation? It wasn’t magic; it was knowledge, the right tool (my trusty Stihl MS310 chainsaw), and a few pro tips that turned me from a firewood fumble-bum into a reasonably proficient wood processor.

Stihl MS310 Chainsaw Benefits: 5 Pro Tips for Oak Firewood

The Stihl MS310. It’s a workhorse. It’s the chainsaw I’ve relied on for years to tackle everything from felling small trees to bucking rounds for firewood. But simply owning a powerful chainsaw isn’t enough. You need to know how to wield it effectively and safely, especially when dealing with oak. So, let’s dive into the benefits of using a Stihl MS310 for oak firewood and explore five pro tips that will transform your firewood game.

Why the Stihl MS310 is a Great Choice for Oak

Oak. Ah, the king of firewood. It burns long, hot, and clean. But it’s also notoriously tough on equipment. That’s where the Stihl MS310 comes in.

• Power-to-Weight Ratio: The MS310 strikes a sweet spot. It’s powerful enough to rip through oak logs without bogging down, yet it’s not so heavy that you’re exhausted after a few hours of work. I’ve spent entire afternoons bucking oak with this saw, and while I’m definitely tired, I’m not crippled. That balance is crucial.
• Durability: Stihl chainsaws have a reputation for being built to last, and the MS310 is no exception. Its robust engine and quality components can withstand the rigors of regular use, even with demanding hardwoods like oak. I’ve put mine through the wringer, and it keeps asking for more.
• Reliability: Starting a chainsaw in freezing temperatures is never fun. The MS310, with its easy starting system, minimizes the frustration. A reliable start is essential when you’re working in the cold, especially when you’re trying to get a head start on your firewood prep before winter hits.
• Ease of Maintenance: A chainsaw is only as good as its maintenance. The MS310 is relatively easy to maintain, with accessible air filters, spark plugs, and chain tensioning mechanisms. Regular maintenance is key to keeping your saw running smoothly and extending its lifespan. I personally clean the air filter after every use, sharpen the chain regularly, and have the saw professionally serviced once a year.
• Availability of Parts and Service: Stihl is a well-established brand, meaning parts and service are readily available. If something does go wrong, you won’t be stuck waiting weeks for a replacement part. A local Stihl dealer is your best friend.

Pro Tip #1: Sharpen Your Chain Like a Pro

A dull chainsaw chain is not only inefficient, but it’s also dangerous. It forces you to apply more pressure, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue. Sharpening your chain regularly is paramount, especially when working with oak. Oak is an abrasive wood that quickly dulls a chain.

• The Importance of Sharpness: A sharp chain bites into the wood effortlessly, creating clean, even chips. A dull chain, on the other hand, tears at the wood, producing sawdust and requiring significantly more effort. Think of it like trying to cut a tomato with a butter knife versus a sharp chef’s knife.
• Sharpening Tools: You have several options for sharpening your chain:
  • Hand Filing: This is the most common and affordable method. It requires a round file of the correct size for your chain, a file guide, and a depth gauge tool. Practice makes perfect, but with patience, you can achieve excellent results. I prefer hand filing because it gives me more control and allows me to maintain the correct cutting angles.
  • Electric Chain Sharpener: These sharpeners are faster and more consistent than hand filing, but they can also be more aggressive and remove more material from the chain. If you’re not careful, you can easily ruin a chain with an electric sharpener.
  • Professional Sharpening: If you’re not comfortable sharpening your chain yourself, you can always take it to a professional. Many chainsaw dealers offer sharpening services.
• Sharpening Technique: Regardless of the method you choose, it’s crucial to maintain the correct cutting angles and depth. Refer to your chainsaw’s manual or watch online tutorials for detailed instructions. A common mistake is to file the chain too deeply, which weakens the cutters and reduces their lifespan.
• Frequency: How often should you sharpen your chain? As a general rule, sharpen your chain every time you refuel your chainsaw. If you notice the chain is cutting slowly or producing sawdust instead of chips, it’s time to sharpen it. With oak, you might need to sharpen more frequently. I typically sharpen after every tank of gas when cutting oak.
• Data Point: Studies have shown that a sharp chainsaw chain can increase cutting efficiency by up to 30% compared to a dull chain. This translates to less time spent cutting firewood and less wear and tear on your chainsaw.

Pro Tip #2: Master the Felling Cut (Even for Firewood Rounds)

While you might not be felling massive oaks for firewood, understanding the principles of felling cuts is essential for safely bucking large rounds. The same techniques used to fell a tree can be applied to controlling the movement of a large log as you cut it into manageable pieces.

• Understanding Tension and Compression: Wood fibers are either under tension (being pulled apart) or compression (being squeezed together). When cutting a log, you need to be aware of these forces to prevent the saw from pinching or binding.
• The Undercut: The undercut is the first cut you make when felling a tree or bucking a large log. It’s a wedge-shaped cut that’s typically made on the side of the log facing the direction you want it to fall. The undercut helps to control the direction of the fall and prevents the log from splitting or kicking back.
• The Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the log from the undercut. It’s a straight cut that’s made slightly above the bottom of the undercut. The back cut should never be cut all the way through the log. Leave a hinge of wood to help control the fall.
• Applying Felling Cuts to Firewood Rounds: When bucking large rounds, use a similar approach. Make an undercut on the side of the round facing the ground. Then, make a back cut, leaving a hinge of wood. As you finish the back cut, the weight of the round will cause it to break along the hinge, preventing the saw from pinching.
• Safety Wedges: For particularly large or heavy rounds, use plastic or wooden wedges to prevent the saw from pinching. Drive the wedges into the cut as you make it to keep the kerf open. Never use metal wedges, as they can damage your chainsaw chain if you accidentally hit them.
• Personal Story: I once tried to buck a large oak round without using any felling cuts. The saw pinched, the log shifted, and I nearly lost control of the chainsaw. It was a scary experience that taught me the importance of understanding and applying these techniques.

Pro Tip #3: Choose the Right Bar and Chain for Oak

Not all chainsaw bars and chains are created equal. When working with oak, you need a bar and chain that are designed for demanding hardwoods.

• Bar Length: The length of your chainsaw bar should be appropriate for the size of the wood you’re cutting. A bar that’s too short will limit your cutting capacity, while a bar that’s too long will be unwieldy and increase the risk of kickback. The Stihl MS310 can accommodate a variety of bar lengths, typically ranging from 16 to 20 inches. I personally prefer an 18-inch bar for most firewood applications.
• Chain Type: There are several different types of chainsaw chains, each designed for specific applications.
  • Full Chisel Chains: These chains have square-cornered cutters that are very aggressive and fast-cutting. However, they are also more prone to dulling and require more frequent sharpening. Full chisel chains are best suited for experienced users who are cutting clean wood.
  • Semi-Chisel Chains: These chains have rounded-corner cutters that are less aggressive than full chisel chains but are also more durable and less prone to dulling. Semi-chisel chains are a good choice for general-purpose cutting and are more forgiving for less experienced users.
  • Low-Profile Chains: These chains have a low profile design that reduces the risk of kickback. They are a good choice for beginners and for cutting small-diameter wood.
• Chain Pitch and Gauge: The pitch and gauge of your chain must match the sprocket on your chainsaw. The pitch is the distance between the rivets on the chain, while the gauge is the thickness of the drive links. Refer to your chainsaw’s manual for the correct pitch and gauge.
• Hardened Chains: Consider using a chain with hardened cutters when working with oak. Hardened chains are more resistant to wear and tear and will stay sharp longer.
• Data Point: Using the correct bar and chain can increase cutting efficiency by up to 20% and reduce the risk of kickback by up to 50%.

Pro Tip #4: Optimize Your Bucking Techniques for Oak’s Density

Oak’s density presents unique challenges when bucking. You need to adapt your techniques to minimize strain on your chainsaw and prevent pinching.

• Bucking on the Ground: Bucking logs on the ground is the most common method, but it can also be the most challenging. The log can roll or shift, and the saw can easily pinch.
  • Elevate the Log: Use smaller logs or branches to elevate the log you’re bucking. This will create space underneath the log and prevent the saw from pinching.
  • Cut Partway Through: Cut partway through the log from one side, then roll it over and finish the cut from the other side. This will help to prevent the log from splitting or kicking back.
  • Use a Cant Hook: A cant hook is a tool used to roll and position logs. It can be very helpful when bucking large rounds.
• Bucking on a Sawbuck: A sawbuck is a frame used to hold logs while you buck them. It’s a safer and more efficient alternative to bucking on the ground.
  • Adjust the Height: Adjust the height of the sawbuck to a comfortable working height. This will reduce strain on your back and shoulders.
  • Secure the Log: Secure the log in the sawbuck before you start cutting. This will prevent it from rolling or shifting.
  • Cut in Increments: Cut the log in increments, starting with the top side. This will help to prevent the log from splitting or kicking back.
• The “Kerf and Conquer” Method: This is a technique I developed for dealing with particularly stubborn oak rounds. I make a series of shallow cuts (kerfs) along the desired cut line. Then, I gradually deepen the cuts until the log is completely severed. This method minimizes the risk of pinching and allows me to control the cutting process more effectively.
• Case Study: I once had to buck a massive oak log that was over 3 feet in diameter. It was too heavy to lift onto a sawbuck, and bucking it on the ground was proving to be extremely difficult. I ended up using a combination of techniques, including elevating the log with smaller logs, cutting partway through from both sides, and using a cant hook to roll the log. It took me several hours, but I eventually managed to buck the log into manageable pieces.

Pro Tip #5: Prioritize Safety Above All Else

Chainsaw work is inherently dangerous. Prioritizing safety is non-negotiable, especially when working with dense hardwoods like oak.

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate PPE when operating a chainsaw. This includes:
  • Chainsaw Chaps: These are designed to protect your legs from chainsaw cuts. They are made of multiple layers of ballistic nylon that will clog the chainsaw chain and stop it from cutting.
  • Safety Glasses or Face Shield: These will protect your eyes from flying debris.
  • Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud. Wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing.
  • Gloves: Gloves will protect your hands from cuts, scrapes, and vibrations.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Steel-toed boots will protect your feet from falling logs and chainsaw cuts.
  • Helmet: A helmet will protect your head from falling branches and other debris.
• Chainsaw Safety Features: Familiarize yourself with the safety features on your chainsaw, such as the chain brake, throttle lock, and chain catcher. Make sure these features are functioning properly before you start working.
• Kickback Awareness: Kickback is the sudden, uncontrolled upward or backward movement of the chainsaw bar. It’s a leading cause of chainsaw injuries. Be aware of the risk of kickback and take steps to prevent it.
  • Avoid Cutting with the Tip of the Bar: The tip of the bar is the most vulnerable to kickback.
  • Maintain a Firm Grip: Keep a firm grip on the chainsaw with both hands.
  • Stand to the Side: Stand to the side of the log you’re cutting, not directly behind it.
• Work Area Safety: Clear your work area of any obstacles, such as rocks, branches, and debris. Make sure you have a clear escape route in case of an emergency.
• Fatigue Management: Chainsaw work is physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue. Fatigue can impair your judgment and increase the risk of accidents.
• First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand in case of an injury. Know how to use the items in the kit.
• Emergency Plan: Have an emergency plan in place in case of a serious accident. Know how to call for help and how to provide first aid until help arrives.
• Data Point: Studies have shown that wearing appropriate PPE can reduce the risk of chainsaw injuries by up to 80%.

Beyond the Basics: Seasoning and Storing Oak Firewood

Once you’ve bucked and split your oak firewood, the next step is to season it properly. Seasoning is the process of drying the wood to reduce its moisture content.

• Why Season Firewood? Green wood contains a high amount of moisture, which makes it difficult to burn and produces a lot of smoke. Seasoned wood, on the other hand, burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently.
• Seasoning Time: Oak is a dense wood and requires a longer seasoning time than softer woods. Ideally, oak should be seasoned for at least 12-18 months before burning.
• Stacking for Airflow: Stack your firewood in a single row, off the ground, and with plenty of space between the rows. This will allow air to circulate freely and help the wood dry more quickly.
• Covering the Stack: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or sheet of plywood to protect it from rain and snow. However, leave the sides of the stack open to allow for ventilation.
• Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your firewood before burning it. Firewood is considered seasoned when its moisture content is below 20%.
• Storing Firewood: Store your seasoned firewood in a dry, well-ventilated area. A woodshed or covered porch is ideal.

Conclusion: Mastering Oak Firewood with the Stihl MS310

The Stihl MS310 is a capable chainsaw that can handle the demands of oak firewood preparation. By following these pro tips, you can maximize its performance, improve your efficiency, and, most importantly, stay safe. Remember, knowledge is power, and with the right tools and techniques, you can transform your firewood experience from a chore into a rewarding and productive activity. Don’t be like the “before” me, struggling with rotten logs and aching muscles. Embrace the “after” – a warm home, a full woodpile, and the satisfaction of a job well done. Now, get out there and start cutting! But remember, safety first!

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