Stihl MS310 Chain Size Guide for 20″ Bars (5 Pro Tips)

There’s something deeply satisfying about a crackling fire on a cold night. The warmth isn’t just physical; it’s a primal connection to something ancient, something fundamental. For me, that connection starts long before the first spark. It begins in the woods, with the rhythmic roar of a chainsaw, the scent of fresh-cut wood, and the knowledge that I’m transforming a fallen tree into a source of comfort and security.

It’s a saw I’ve relied on for years, particularly when paired with a 20-inch bar. But getting the right chain size for that bar is crucial, and that’s what I want to dive into today. Let’s talk about how to choose the right chain, and I’ll share five pro tips I’ve learned along the way to keep your MS310 running smoothly and safely with a 20-inch bar.

Stihl MS310 Chain Size Guide for 20″ Bars (5 Pro Tips)

Choosing the correct chain size for your Stihl MS310 with a 20-inch bar isn’t just about slapping on any chain that looks right. It’s about optimizing performance, ensuring safety, and prolonging the life of your chainsaw. I’ve seen firsthand what happens when folks cut corners here – dull chains, kickback risks, and even damage to the saw itself. So, let’s get it right.

Understanding Chain Specifications

Before we dive into the specifics, let’s break down the key chain specifications you need to know. These are the essential data points that will guide your selection:

• Pitch: This refers to the distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. It’s a critical measurement, as it determines how the chain interacts with the sprocket and bar. For the MS310 with a 20-inch bar, the most common pitch is .325 inch.

• Gauge: This is the thickness of the drive links (the part of the chain that fits into the groove of the guide bar). It’s crucial that the gauge matches the bar’s groove width. The standard gauge for the MS310 is .063 inch (also sometimes written as 1.6mm).

• Drive Link Count: This is the total number of drive links in the chain. This is determined by the bar length. For a 20-inch bar on the MS310, you’ll typically need a chain with 76 drive links.

Why are these specifications so important?

Think of it like this: you wouldn’t put the wrong size tires on your truck, right? The same principle applies to chainsaw chains. The pitch needs to match the sprocket, the gauge needs to fit the bar groove, and the drive link count needs to be correct for the chain to properly circulate around the bar. Mismatched specifications can lead to:

• Premature wear and tear: The chain and bar will grind against each other, leading to rapid wear.
• Poor cutting performance: A mismatched chain won’t cut efficiently, leading to more effort and less productivity.
• Increased risk of kickback: An improperly fitting chain can increase the likelihood of kickback, a dangerous and potentially fatal event.
• Damage to the chainsaw: In severe cases, using the wrong chain can damage the sprocket, bar, or even the engine of your MS310.

Pro Tip #1: Always Consult Your Owner’s Manual

This might seem obvious, but it’s the most important advice I can give you. Your Stihl MS310 owner’s manual is your bible. It contains all the specific information about recommended chain types, bar lengths, and maintenance procedures. Don’t guess – consult the manual! It will explicitly state the correct pitch, gauge, and drive link count for your specific configuration.

I remember one time, early in my woodcutting days, I thought I could save a few bucks by buying a “universal” chain. It was close, but not quite right. The pitch was slightly off, and I ended up chewing through the sprocket in no time. Lesson learned: the manual knows best.

Pro Tip #2: Understand Chain Types and Their Applications

Not all chains are created equal. There are different types of chains designed for different purposes, and choosing the right one can significantly impact your cutting performance and safety. Here’s a rundown of the most common types:

• Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters and are the fastest-cutting chains. They’re ideal for clean wood and experienced users. However, they dull quickly if they come into contact with dirt or debris.

• Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded cutters and are more forgiving than full chisel chains. They’re a good all-around choice for cutting both clean and slightly dirty wood. They also tend to stay sharp longer than full chisel chains.

• Low-Profile (Safety) Chains: These chains have a reduced kickback tendency and are designed for beginners or those who prioritize safety. They cut slower than full or semi-chisel chains, but they’re a safer option.

• Ripping Chains: These chains are specifically designed for cutting wood lengthwise, along the grain. They have a different cutter geometry than cross-cutting chains and are essential for milling lumber.

Which chain type is best for the MS310 with a 20-inch bar?

For most general-purpose cutting, a semi-chisel chain is an excellent choice. It offers a good balance of cutting speed, durability, and ease of maintenance. If you’re primarily cutting clean wood and have experience with chainsaws, a full chisel chain can provide faster cutting. However, for beginners or those who prioritize safety, a low-profile chain is a safer option.

I’ve found that for firewood preparation, a semi-chisel chain is my go-to. It handles a variety of wood types, from soft pine to hardwood like oak and maple, without dulling too quickly. Plus, it’s relatively easy to sharpen, which is a must when you’re processing large amounts of wood.

Pro Tip #3: Mastering Chain Sharpening

A sharp chain is a safe chain. A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and putting unnecessary strain on your chainsaw. Learning to sharpen your chain is a critical skill for any chainsaw user.

There are several ways to sharpen a chainsaw chain:

• Hand Filing: This is the most common and affordable method. It involves using a round file and a file guide to sharpen each cutter individually. It takes practice, but it allows you to maintain a consistent cutting angle and depth.

• Electric Chain Sharpener: These sharpeners use a grinding wheel to sharpen the cutters. They’re faster and more precise than hand filing, but they can also be more aggressive and remove more material from the chain.

• Professional Sharpening: If you’re not comfortable sharpening your own chain, you can take it to a professional sharpening service. This is a good option for complex sharpening jobs or when you need to repair damaged cutters.

My preferred method is hand filing. It gives me the most control over the sharpening process, and I find it to be a relaxing and meditative activity. Plus, it allows me to inspect the chain closely for any signs of damage.

Here are a few tips for hand filing:

• Use the correct file size: The file size should match the pitch of your chain. Your owner’s manual will specify the correct file size.
• Use a file guide: A file guide helps you maintain the correct cutting angle and depth.
• Sharpen each cutter evenly: Make sure to sharpen each cutter the same amount to maintain a balanced chain.
• Check the depth gauges: The depth gauges control how much the cutters bite into the wood. If they’re too high, the chain won’t cut effectively. If they’re too low, the chain will be aggressive and prone to kickback. Use a depth gauge tool to file them down as needed.

Data Point: Studies have shown that a properly sharpened chain can increase cutting efficiency by as much as 30%. This translates to less fuel consumption, less wear and tear on your chainsaw, and less effort on your part.

Pro Tip #4: Chain Maintenance and Lubrication

Proper chain maintenance is essential for prolonging the life of your chain and ensuring safe operation. Here are a few key maintenance practices:

• Regular Cleaning: After each use, clean your chain with a brush and solvent to remove sawdust, pitch, and debris. This will help prevent corrosion and keep the chain running smoothly.

• Proper Lubrication: Chainsaw chains require constant lubrication to reduce friction and prevent overheating. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed. A dry chain will quickly overheat and wear out.

• Tension Adjustment: The chain tension should be checked and adjusted regularly. A loose chain can derail from the bar, while a tight chain can overheat and damage the sprocket. The correct tension is when you can pull the chain away from the bar slightly, but it snaps back into place when released.

• Regular Inspection: Inspect your chain regularly for signs of damage, such as cracked or broken cutters, loose rivets, or excessive wear. Replace the chain if you find any significant damage.

Case Study: I once worked with a small logging operation that was experiencing frequent chain failures. After investigating, I discovered that they were using a low-quality bar and chain oil and neglecting to clean their chains regularly. By switching to a higher-quality oil and implementing a regular cleaning schedule, they were able to significantly reduce their chain failures and save money in the long run.

Pro Tip #5: Understanding Wood Types and Their Impact on Chain Wear

The type of wood you’re cutting can significantly impact the wear and tear on your chainsaw chain. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory are much more abrasive than softwoods like pine, fir, and cedar. Cutting hardwoods will dull your chain faster and require more frequent sharpening.

Here’s a breakdown of common wood types and their impact on chain wear:

• Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Cedar): These woods are relatively easy to cut and don’t dull chains as quickly. However, they tend to be sappy and can gum up the chain.

• Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Hickory): These woods are dense and abrasive, requiring more frequent sharpening. They also tend to be more prone to splitting and splintering.

• Exotic Hardwoods (Ipe, Teak, Mahogany): These woods are extremely dense and oily, requiring specialized chains and sharpening techniques.

• Treated Wood (Pressure-Treated Lumber, Railroad Ties): Treated wood is highly abrasive and can quickly dull a chainsaw chain. It also contains chemicals that can be harmful to your health, so it’s important to wear proper safety gear when cutting treated wood.

Data Point: Studies have shown that cutting hardwoods can reduce chain life by as much as 50% compared to cutting softwoods.

How to mitigate the impact of wood type on chain wear:

• Choose the right chain type: For cutting hardwoods, a chain with hard-chromed cutters will stay sharp longer.
• Sharpen your chain frequently: Don’t wait until your chain is completely dull to sharpen it. Sharpen it regularly to maintain optimal cutting performance.
• Use a chain lubricant designed for hardwoods: Some chain lubricants are specifically formulated to reduce friction when cutting hardwoods.
• Avoid cutting dirty wood: Dirt and debris are highly abrasive and will quickly dull your chain. Clean the wood before cutting it, if possible.

Final Thoughts

Choosing the right chain size for your Stihl MS310 with a 20-inch bar is a crucial step in ensuring safe and efficient woodcutting. By understanding chain specifications, consulting your owner’s manual, choosing the right chain type, mastering chain sharpening, and practicing proper chain maintenance, you can prolong the life of your chain, improve your cutting performance, and reduce the risk of accidents.

Remember, a little bit of knowledge and effort can go a long way in the world of wood processing. So, take the time to learn the basics, practice your skills, and always prioritize safety. And the next time you’re standing in front of a crackling fire, you can take pride in knowing that you played a part in creating that warmth and comfort.

Now, go forth and conquer those logs! And remember, always cut safely and responsibly. The woods are a valuable resource, and it’s our responsibility to protect them. Happy cutting!

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