Stihl MS290 Bar Size Guide (5 Pro Tips For Perfect Cuts)

Stihl MS290 Bar Size Guide: 5 Pro Tips for Perfect Cuts

Have you ever felt like your chainsaw was fighting you more than the wood? Or maybe your cuts are consistently angled, leaving you with unusable lumber or uneven firewood? I know I have. It’s frustrating, time-consuming, and potentially dangerous. The culprit? It might just be your bar size. Choosing the right bar length for your Stihl MS290 is crucial for performance, safety, and achieving clean, efficient cuts.

I’ve spent countless hours in the woods, felling trees and processing firewood. I’ve learned the hard way that a poorly matched bar can turn a reliable saw like the MS290 into a headache. This guide will share my hard-earned experience. You’ll get the insights you need to select the optimal bar size for your needs, along with five pro tips to ensure you’re making perfect cuts every time.

Understanding the Stihl MS290 and Its Capabilities

The Stihl MS290 is a workhorse of a chainsaw, a staple for both homeowners and professionals alike. It’s known for its reliability, power, and ease of use. But even the best chainsaw needs the right tools.

Engine Displacement: The MS290 typically features a 56.5 cc engine, providing ample power for a variety of tasks.
Typical Uses: This saw excels at felling small to medium-sized trees, limbing, bucking firewood, and general property maintenance.
Stock Bar Length: The MS290 commonly comes equipped with a 16-inch or 18-inch bar.

However, the “stock” bar isn’t always the best bar for your specific needs. Let’s dive into how to choose the right size.

Choosing the Right Bar Length: A Balancing Act

Selecting the correct bar length for your Stihl MS290 is a balancing act between power, control, and the size of the wood you’re cutting. A bar that’s too long can strain the engine and reduce control, while a bar that’s too short might limit your cutting capacity.

Factors to Consider:

Tree Size: This is the most important factor. If you’re primarily felling trees with a diameter of 12 inches or less, a 16-inch bar is likely sufficient. For trees up to 16 inches in diameter, an 18-inch bar is a good choice.
Type of Wood: Hardwoods like oak and maple require more power to cut than softwoods like pine and fir. If you’re consistently cutting hardwoods, consider a shorter bar to maximize the saw’s power.
Your Experience: If you’re new to using a chainsaw, a shorter bar (16 inches) is generally easier to control. As you gain experience, you can move to a longer bar (18 inches or 20 inches).
Cutting Technique: Are you primarily felling trees, limbing branches, or bucking firewood? Felling often requires a longer bar, while limbing can be done efficiently with a shorter bar.
Saw Power: The MS290 has a 56.5cc engine. This displacement dictates the maximum bar length the saw can effectively handle.

General Recommendations:

16-inch Bar: Ideal for small trees, limbing, and firewood cutting of smaller logs. Offers excellent maneuverability and control.
18-inch Bar: A versatile choice for medium-sized trees and general-purpose cutting. Provides a good balance of power and control.
20-inch Bar: Suitable for larger trees (up to 20 inches in diameter) and experienced users. Requires more power and control.

My Personal Experience:

I started with an 18-inch bar on my MS290 when I first got it. I thought “bigger is better”, but quickly realized that it was often overkill for the smaller firewood I was processing. Switching to a 16-inch bar for most of my firewood duties significantly improved my cutting speed and reduced fatigue.

Takeaway: Carefully consider the size and type of wood you’ll be cutting most often when selecting your bar length. Don’t automatically assume that a longer bar is always the best choice.

Bar and Chain Compatibility: Getting the Right Fit

Once you’ve decided on the ideal bar length, it’s crucial to ensure that the bar and chain are compatible with your Stihl MS290. Using the wrong bar or chain can damage your saw and create a safety hazard.

Key Specifications:

Bar Mount: The MS290 uses a specific bar mount pattern. Make sure the bar you choose is designed to fit this pattern. Stihl bars are generally the safest bet. Aftermarket bars can work, but be very careful to verify they match the Stihl mount.
Chain Pitch: The pitch refers to the distance between the drive links on the chain. The MS290 typically uses a .325″ pitch chain.
Chain Gauge: The gauge refers to the thickness of the drive links. The MS290 typically uses a .063″ gauge chain.
Drive Link Count: The number of drive links on the chain must match the bar length. A 16-inch bar typically requires 62 drive links, an 18-inch bar requires 68 drive links, and a 20-inch bar requires 72 drive links.

How to Find the Right Chain:

Consult Your Owner’s Manual: Your Stihl MS290 owner’s manual will provide the correct chain specifications for your saw.
Check Your Existing Chain: If you’re replacing an old chain, look for the pitch and gauge stamped on the drive links.
Ask a Professional: If you’re unsure, consult a qualified chainsaw technician at your local Stihl dealer.

Example Scenario:

Let’s say you want to install an 18-inch bar on your MS290. You’ll need a bar with the correct Stihl mount, a .325″ pitch chain, a .063″ gauge chain, and 68 drive links.

Important Note: Always use the correct chain tension for your bar and chain combination. Refer to your owner’s manual for instructions on how to adjust chain tension.

Takeaway: Double-check the bar and chain specifications to ensure compatibility with your MS290. This will prevent damage to your saw and ensure safe, efficient cutting.

Pro Tip #1: Mastering the Bore Cut for Felling Larger Trees

When felling trees that are larger than your bar length, the bore cut is an essential technique. This allows you to safely and accurately fell trees that would otherwise be impossible to cut through in a single pass.

What is a Bore Cut?

A bore cut involves plunging the tip of the chainsaw bar into the tree to create a “hinge” of wood. This hinge helps control the direction of the fall and prevents the tree from barber chairing (splitting upwards).

Step-by-Step Guide:

Assess the Tree: Determine the tree’s lean, wind direction, and any potential hazards. Clear the area around the tree.
Make the Face Cut: Create a notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
Begin the Bore Cut: Standing to the side of the tree, carefully plunge the tip of the bar into the tree, behind the notch. Use the bumper spikes to maintain control.
Create the Hinge: Slowly pivot the saw to create a hinge of wood. The hinge should be about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
Make the Back Cut: Remove the chainsaw and make a back cut, leaving about 2 inches of wood connecting the back cut to the bore cut. This is the holding wood that will control the fall.
Wedge (If Necessary): If the tree doesn’t start to fall on its own, use a wedge to gently push it over.
Retreat Safely: As the tree falls, move away from the stump at a 45-degree angle.

Safety Precautions:

Never Bore Cut Above Shoulder Height: This can be dangerous and difficult to control.
Be Aware of Kickback: Bore cuts increase the risk of kickback. Use a chainsaw with anti-kickback features and maintain a firm grip on the saw.
Practice on Smaller Trees: Before attempting a bore cut on a large tree, practice on smaller trees to get a feel for the technique.

Why It Works:

The bore cut allows you to create a controlled hinge that directs the fall of the tree. This is particularly important for larger trees where a traditional felling cut might not be possible.

My Experience:

I once had to fell a large oak tree that was leaning precariously towards a neighbor’s house. The bore cut was the only way to safely control the direction of the fall and prevent damage to their property.

Takeaway: Mastering the bore cut is an essential skill for anyone felling trees larger than their bar length. Practice this technique safely and responsibly.

Pro Tip #2: The Importance of Chain Sharpening and Maintenance

A dull chain is not only inefficient, it’s also dangerous. It requires more force to cut through wood, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue. Regularly sharpening your chain is crucial for optimal performance and safety.

When to Sharpen:

Sawdust Instead of Chips: If your saw is producing sawdust instead of chips, it’s a sign that the chain is dull.
Excessive Vibration: A dull chain can cause the saw to vibrate excessively.
Difficulty Cutting: If you’re having to force the saw through the wood, the chain is likely dull.
Regular Intervals: As a general rule, sharpen your chain after every few hours of use.

How to Sharpen:

There are several ways to sharpen a chainsaw chain:

Hand Filing: This is the most common method and requires a round file, a flat file, and a filing guide.
Electric Chain Sharpener: These sharpeners are faster and more precise than hand filing.
Professional Sharpening: If you’re not comfortable sharpening your own chain, you can take it to a professional.

Step-by-Step Hand Filing Guide:

Secure the Chain: Place the chainsaw in a vise or use a chain vise to secure the chain.
Use a Filing Guide: A filing guide will help you maintain the correct angle and depth.
File Each Cutter: File each cutter evenly, using smooth, consistent strokes.
File the Depth Gauges: Use a flat file to lower the depth gauges according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
Inspect the Chain: Check for any damaged or worn cutters.

Chain Maintenance Tips:

Clean the Chain Regularly: Remove sawdust and debris from the chain after each use.
Lubricate the Chain: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to keep the chain lubricated.
Check Chain Tension: Adjust chain tension regularly to prevent the chain from derailing.
Replace Worn Chains: Replace the chain when it becomes excessively worn or damaged.

Why It Matters:

A sharp chain cuts through wood more efficiently, reducing strain on the saw and the operator. It also reduces the risk of kickback and improves the quality of your cuts.

My Personal Rule:

I sharpen my chainsaw chain every time I refuel it. This ensures that I’m always working with a sharp chain and reduces the risk of accidents.

Takeaway: Regular chain sharpening and maintenance are essential for safe and efficient chainsaw operation. Invest in the necessary tools and learn how to sharpen your chain properly.

Pro Tip #3: Optimizing Cutting Techniques for Different Wood Types

Not all wood is created equal. Different species have different densities, grain patterns, and moisture contents, all of which affect how they cut. Adjusting your cutting techniques based on the type of wood you’re working with can significantly improve your efficiency and the quality of your cuts.

Softwoods vs. Hardwoods:

Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): These woods are generally easier to cut than hardwoods. They have a lower density and a more uniform grain pattern. Use a faster cutting speed and lighter pressure.
Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Hickory): These woods are denser and have a more complex grain pattern. Require more power and a slower, more controlled cutting speed.

Cutting Green vs. Dry Wood:

Green Wood (Freshly Cut): Green wood has a high moisture content, which makes it easier to cut but also more prone to binding. Use a sharp chain and be prepared to use wedges to prevent binding.
Dry Wood (Seasoned): Dry wood is harder to cut but less prone to binding. Use a slightly slower cutting speed and maintain a sharp chain.

Specific Wood Cutting Tips:

Oak: Oak is a dense hardwood that can be difficult to cut. Use a sharp chain and a slower, more controlled cutting speed. Be careful of knots, which can cause the saw to bind.
Pine: Pine is a softwood that is relatively easy to cut. Use a faster cutting speed and be careful of pitch, which can build up on the chain.
Maple: Maple is a hardwood that is known for its beautiful grain pattern. Use a sharp chain and a steady hand to avoid tearing the wood.
Cherry: Cherry is a hardwood that is prized for its color and workability. Use a sharp chain and a moderate cutting speed.

Adjusting Your Technique:

Pressure: Apply more pressure when cutting hardwoods and less pressure when cutting softwoods.
Cutting Speed: Use a faster cutting speed when cutting softwoods and a slower cutting speed when cutting hardwoods.
Chain Sharpness: Ensure your chain is sharp, especially when cutting hardwoods.
Lubrication: Keep the chain well-lubricated to reduce friction and heat.

Real-World Example:

I was once cutting a large pile of seasoned oak firewood. I started using the same technique I used for cutting pine, and the saw was bogging down and the chain was getting hot. Once I slowed down my cutting speed and applied more pressure, the saw cut through the oak with ease.

Takeaway: Understanding the properties of different wood types and adjusting your cutting techniques accordingly can significantly improve your efficiency and the quality of your cuts.

Pro Tip #4: Utilizing Proper Body Positioning and Stance for Safety and Control

Chainsaw safety is paramount, and proper body positioning and stance are crucial for maintaining control and reducing the risk of accidents. A stable stance allows you to react quickly to unexpected movements of the saw or the wood.

Key Principles:

Stable Base: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and your weight evenly distributed.
Firm Grip: Grip the saw firmly with both hands. Your thumbs should be wrapped around the handles.
Keep the Saw Close: Keep the saw close to your body to maintain control.
Avoid Overreaching: Don’t overreach or extend yourself beyond your comfortable range of motion.
Plan Your Cuts: Before making a cut, plan your movements and identify any potential hazards.

Specific Stances:

Felling Stance: Stand to the side of the tree, with your feet shoulder-width apart and your weight evenly distributed. Keep your knees slightly bent and your back straight.
Bucking Stance: When bucking firewood, position yourself so that the log is between your legs. This will help prevent the log from rolling and pinching the saw.
Limbing Stance: When limbing, stand to the side of the branch and keep your feet firmly planted. Avoid standing directly underneath the branch.

Body Positioning Tips:

Keep the Saw Below Your Waist: This reduces the risk of kickback.
Avoid Cutting Above Shoulder Height: This can be dangerous and difficult to control.
Use Your Legs, Not Your Back: Lift with your legs, not your back, to avoid injury.
Take Breaks: Fatigue can lead to accidents. Take frequent breaks to rest and stretch.

Importance of Proper PPE (Personal Protective Equipment):

Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
Eye Protection: Protects your eyes from sawdust and flying chips.
Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from accidental cuts.
Gloves: Provide a better grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and sharp objects.

My Near Miss:

I once slipped while limbing a tree and almost lost control of the chainsaw. Luckily, I was wearing chainsaw chaps and was able to avoid a serious injury. That experience taught me the importance of proper footing and wearing appropriate PPE.

Takeaway: Proper body positioning and stance are essential for chainsaw safety. Always maintain a stable base, keep the saw close to your body, and wear appropriate PPE.

Pro Tip #5: Understanding and Preventing Chainsaw Kickback

Chainsaw kickback is one of the most dangerous hazards associated with chainsaw operation. It occurs when the tip of the bar contacts a solid object or is pinched, causing the saw to suddenly and violently kick back towards the operator.

Understanding Kickback:

Kickback Zone: The upper quadrant of the bar tip is known as the kickback zone. Contact with this area is most likely to cause kickback.
Pinching: Pinching occurs when the saw chain is pinched between the wood, causing the saw to kick back.
Hidden Objects: Contact with hidden objects, such as nails or rocks, can also cause kickback.

Preventing Kickback:

Use a Chainsaw with Anti-Kickback Features: Many chainsaws are equipped with anti-kickback features, such as chain brakes and low-kickback chains.
Avoid Contact with the Kickback Zone: Be aware of the location of the kickback zone and avoid contacting it with solid objects.
Use Proper Cutting Techniques: Use proper cutting techniques, such as bore cuts, to avoid pinching the saw.
Maintain a Firm Grip: Maintain a firm grip on the saw with both hands.
Keep the Chain Sharp: A dull chain is more likely to cause kickback.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of any potential hazards, such as hidden objects or branches.
Stand to the Side: When cutting, stand to the side of the log or tree to avoid being in the path of kickback.

Types of Kickback:

Rotational Kickback: This is the most common type of kickback and occurs when the tip of the bar contacts a solid object, causing the saw to rotate back towards the operator.
Linear Kickback: This type of kickback occurs when the wood pinches the saw, causing it to be thrown straight back towards the operator.
Pull-In: This occurs when the bottom of the bar gets pinched, pulling the saw forward unexpectedly.

Reacting to Kickback:

Maintain a Firm Grip: Maintain a firm grip on the saw to prevent it from being thrown out of your hands.
Lean Back: Lean back and try to get out of the path of the kickback.
Activate the Chain Brake: If possible, activate the chain brake to stop the chain from rotating.

Learning from Experience:

I was once cutting a small log when the tip of the bar contacted a hidden rock. The saw kicked back violently, and I barely managed to maintain control. That experience taught me the importance of being aware of my surroundings and using proper cutting techniques.

Takeaway: Chainsaw kickback is a serious hazard that can cause severe injuries. Understanding the causes of kickback and taking steps to prevent it is essential for chainsaw safety.

Essential Safety Gear (Revisited):

Helmet: Protects your head from falling debris. Look for a helmet that meets ANSI Z89.1 standards.
Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield protect your eyes from flying chips and sawdust.
Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw. Aim for a noise reduction rating (NRR) of at least 25 dB.
Chainsaw Chaps: These protective leg coverings are designed to stop the chain in the event of accidental contact. Look for chaps that meet ASTM F1897 standards.
Gloves: Provide a better grip and protect your hands. Leather gloves are a good choice.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and sharp objects.

Pre-Cutting Checklist:

Before starting your chainsaw, always perform a pre-cutting checklist:

Inspect the Saw: Check for any damage or loose parts.
Check the Chain: Ensure the chain is sharp and properly tensioned.
Check the Bar: Ensure the bar is properly lubricated and in good condition.
Check the Fuel and Oil Levels: Ensure the fuel and oil tanks are full.
Clear the Work Area: Remove any obstacles or hazards from the work area.
Plan Your Escape Route: Identify a clear escape route in case of an emergency.

Safe Operating Practices:

Never Operate a Chainsaw Under the Influence: Alcohol and drugs can impair your judgment and coordination.
Never Operate a Chainsaw Alone: Always work with a partner in case of an emergency.
Never Operate a Chainsaw in Poor Weather Conditions: Rain, snow, and wind can make it difficult to control the saw.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Pay attention to your surroundings and be aware of any potential hazards.
Take Frequent Breaks: Fatigue can lead to accidents. Take frequent breaks to rest and stretch.
Follow the Manufacturer’s Instructions: Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for operating and maintaining your chainsaw.

First Aid Kit:

Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand in case of an injury. The kit should include bandages, antiseptic wipes, pain relievers, and a tourniquet.

My Commitment:

I always wear full safety gear and follow safe operating practices when using a chainsaw. It’s not just a habit; it’s a commitment to myself and my family.

Conclusion: Achieving Perfect Cuts with Your Stihl MS290

Choosing the right bar size for your Stihl MS290 is a critical step towards achieving perfect cuts and ensuring safe and efficient operation. By considering the factors outlined in this guide, you can select the optimal bar length for your specific needs and cutting tasks.

Remember the five pro tips:

Master the Bore Cut: For felling larger trees safely.
Maintain Chain Sharpness: A sharp chain is a safe chain.
Adapt to Wood Types: Adjust your technique for different species.
Prioritize Body Positioning: A stable stance equals better control.
Prevent Kickback: Understand and avoid this dangerous hazard.

But don’t stop there. Combine these tips with proper safety gear, regular maintenance, and a commitment to safe operating practices. A well-maintained chainsaw, coupled with a knowledgeable and safety-conscious operator, is a powerful tool for tackling a wide range of wood processing tasks.

My goal in sharing my experiences and insights is to help you avoid the mistakes I’ve made and to empower you to use your Stihl MS290 safely and effectively. So, get out there, choose the right bar, sharpen your chain, and start making those perfect cuts! And always remember, safety first.

Stihl MS290 Bar Size Guide (5 Pro Tips for Perfect Cuts)