Stihl MS270C Chainsaw Tips (7 Pro Woodcutting Hacks)

Ah, the smell of sawdust and bar oil – it takes me right back to my grandfather’s woodlot. He wasn’t just cutting wood; he was crafting warmth, building memories, and teaching me the respect a good chainsaw deserves. The Stihl MS270C, in my opinion, is a workhorse, a reliable companion in turning trees into usable fuel. But even the best tool needs the right touch. So, let’s dive into some pro woodcutting hacks to help you get the most out of your MS270C.

Stihl MS270C Chainsaw Tips: 7 Pro Woodcutting Hacks

1. Mastering the Pre-Cut Routine: The Foundation of Safe and Efficient Cutting

Before I even think about firing up my MS270C, I take a good look at the tree and the surrounding area. This isn’t just about safety; it’s about respecting the wood and planning the cut.

Tree Assessment: Is the tree leaning? Are there dead branches (widowmakers) overhead? Knowing these things dictates my approach. A leaning tree will want to fall in that direction, and I need to plan my cuts accordingly.
Escape Route: Always clear a path behind you and to the sides at a 45-degree angle from the direction of the fall. This is your escape route if things don’t go as planned.
Tool Check: A dull chain is a dangerous chain. I inspect the chain for sharpness and damage. I also check the bar for wear and ensure the chain tension is correct. A loose chain can jump off the bar, and that’s a recipe for disaster.
Fuel and Oil Levels: Running out of fuel or bar oil mid-cut is a rookie mistake. I always top off both before starting.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): This is non-negotiable. I wear a helmet with a face shield, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and sturdy boots. It might seem like overkill, but one slip can change your life. I can’t stress this enough.

Takeaway: A thorough pre-cut routine is the cornerstone of safe and efficient woodcutting. Never skip this step.

2. The Art of the Felling Cut: Precision and Control

Felling a tree is a serious undertaking. It’s not about brute force; it’s about precision and control. I use a three-step process: the undercut, the back cut, and the hinge.

The Undercut (Hinge Preparation): This is a wedge-shaped cut on the side of the tree facing the desired direction of fall. I start with a horizontal cut about one-third of the tree’s diameter, followed by an angled cut meeting the horizontal cut. This creates a clean break and helps guide the tree’s fall. The angle of the undercut should be about 45 degrees.
The Back Cut: This cut is made on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the horizontal cut of the undercut. Crucially, I never cut all the way through. I leave a hinge of wood, usually about 10% of the tree’s diameter. This hinge acts as a rudder, controlling the direction of the fall.
The Hinge: The size and shape of the hinge are critical. Too thin, and it can snap prematurely, causing the tree to fall unpredictably. Too thick, and it might not break at all, requiring extra force to fell the tree.
Using Wedges: For larger trees, I use felling wedges to help guide the fall and prevent the saw from getting pinched. I insert the wedges into the back cut and drive them in with a hammer. This forces the tree in the direction of the undercut.

Example: Let’s say I’m felling a 16-inch diameter oak tree. My undercut would be about 5 inches deep. My back cut would leave a hinge about 1.6 inches thick (10% of 16 inches).

Takeaway: Mastering the felling cut requires practice and understanding of tree behavior. Start with smaller trees and gradually work your way up.

3. Limbing Like a Pro: Minimizing Kickback and Maximizing Efficiency

Limbing is the process of removing branches from a felled tree. It’s where many chainsaw accidents happen because of kickback. I approach limbing with caution and a systematic approach.

Stance and Grip: I stand to the side of the tree, never directly behind it. I maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw with both hands. My left hand should be wrapped around the front handle, and my right hand should be on the rear handle.
Cutting Technique: I use the bottom of the bar to cut branches, minimizing the risk of kickback. I also avoid cutting with the tip of the bar, which is the most kickback-prone area.
Supporting the Branch: Before cutting a branch, I make sure it’s supported. If it’s not, it can pinch the bar and cause the saw to bind. I might use a small log or a rock to prop up the branch.
Cutting Order: I start with the smaller branches and work my way up to the larger ones. This makes it easier to move around the tree and avoid tripping hazards.
Spring Poles: Be especially careful with spring poles – branches that are under tension. These can snap back violently when cut. I make a series of small cuts on the tension side of the branch before making the final cut.

Case Study: I once saw a logger get seriously injured by a spring pole. He cut it without taking precautions, and it snapped back, hitting him in the face. He was lucky to be alive.

Takeaway: Limbing requires a combination of skill, awareness, and respect for the power of the chainsaw. Always be mindful of kickback and potential hazards.

4. Bucking for Firewood: Consistent Lengths and Efficient Splitting

Bucking is the process of cutting a log into shorter lengths, typically for firewood. Consistent lengths make splitting easier and stacking more efficient.

Measuring: I use a measuring stick or a chainsaw scabbard marked with my desired firewood length (usually 16 inches). I mark the log at regular intervals.
Supporting the Log: To prevent the saw from pinching, I support the log with other logs or rocks. If the log is resting on the ground, I make sure it’s not in contact with dirt or rocks, which can dull the chain.
Cutting Technique: I use a smooth, controlled motion to cut through the log. I avoid forcing the saw, which can cause it to bind.
Cutting from Above and Below: For larger logs, I might need to cut from both above and below to avoid pinching. I start by cutting about halfway through the log from the top, then I roll the log over and finish the cut from the bottom.
Kerf Considerations: The kerf is the width of the cut made by the chainsaw. It’s important to factor this in when measuring your firewood lengths. Otherwise, you’ll end up with pieces that are slightly shorter than you intended.

Measurement Example: If I want 16-inch firewood and my chainsaw has a 1/4-inch kerf, I’ll mark the log every 16 1/4 inches.

Takeaway: Bucking for firewood is more than just cutting logs into pieces. It’s about precision, efficiency, and safety.

5. Chainsaw Maintenance: Keeping Your MS270C Running Smoothly

A well-maintained chainsaw is a safe and efficient chainsaw. I follow a regular maintenance schedule to keep my MS270C in top condition.

Chain Sharpening: A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient cutting. I sharpen my chain regularly, usually after every few hours of use. I use a chainsaw file and a depth gauge to maintain the correct cutting angles and depth.
Bar Maintenance: I clean the bar groove regularly to remove sawdust and debris. I also check the bar for wear and damage. If the bar is worn or damaged, I replace it.
Air Filter: I clean the air filter regularly to ensure proper airflow to the engine. A clogged air filter can reduce engine power and cause it to overheat.
Spark Plug: I check the spark plug regularly and replace it if it’s fouled or worn. A bad spark plug can cause the engine to run poorly or not start at all.
Fuel and Oil: I use high-quality fuel and bar oil. I also store the chainsaw with the fuel tank full and the bar oil tank empty to prevent corrosion.
Chain Tension: I check the chain tension before each use and adjust it as needed. A loose chain can jump off the bar, and a tight chain can overheat and break. The general rule of thumb is to have the chain snug against the bar, but still able to be pulled around by hand.
Cleaning: After each use, I clean the chainsaw thoroughly, removing sawdust and debris from the engine, bar, and chain.

Maintenance Schedule Example:

Daily: Check chain tension, fuel and oil levels, and air filter.
Weekly: Sharpen chain, clean bar groove, and inspect spark plug.
Monthly: Clean air filter, check bar for wear, and lubricate sprocket bearing.
Annually: Replace spark plug, inspect fuel lines, and clean carburetor.

Takeaway: Regular chainsaw maintenance is crucial for safety, efficiency, and longevity. Don’t neglect this important aspect of woodcutting.

6. Advanced Wood Splitting Techniques: Beyond the Maul

While a good splitting maul is essential, there are times when I need more power and efficiency. That’s where advanced wood splitting techniques come in.

Hydraulic Log Splitter: For large or knotty logs, a hydraulic log splitter is a lifesaver. I use a splitter with a 25-ton capacity. I always wear safety glasses when using a log splitter.
Wedges and Sledges: For extremely tough logs, I use splitting wedges and a sledgehammer. I drive the wedges into the log, splitting it apart gradually. I often use a combination of wedges, working my way around the log to find the weakest points.
The “Star” Split: For very large diameter rounds, I start by splitting the round into quarters, then each quarter into smaller pieces. This is often easier than trying to split the entire round in one go.
Knowing the Wood: Different types of wood split differently. Straight-grained woods like pine and fir split easily, while knotty woods like oak and maple can be more challenging. Knowing the wood helps me choose the right splitting technique.
Moisture Content: Wood splits easier when it’s green (freshly cut). As wood dries, it becomes harder and more difficult to split. I try to split my firewood as soon as possible after cutting it.

Data Point: A study by the US Forest Service found that green wood requires approximately 20% less force to split than seasoned wood.

Takeaway: Advanced wood splitting techniques can save you time and energy, especially when dealing with large or difficult logs.

7. Stacking and Drying Firewood: The Key to Efficient Burning

Proper stacking and drying are crucial for efficient burning. Dry firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and produces less smoke.

Location: I choose a sunny, well-ventilated location for my firewood stack. This helps the wood dry quickly. I avoid stacking firewood directly on the ground, as this can promote rot. I use pallets or logs to create a raised platform.
Stacking Method: I stack the firewood in a way that allows for good airflow. I use a crisscross pattern or a single row with gaps between the pieces. I also leave a space between the stack and any walls or fences.
Covering: I cover the top of the firewood stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow. However, I leave the sides of the stack open to allow for ventilation.
Drying Time: The amount of time it takes for firewood to dry depends on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Generally, it takes at least six months for firewood to dry properly.
Moisture Content Testing: I use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the firewood. The ideal moisture content for burning is below 20%. Above 20% and you’ll get a smoky fire that doesn’t put out much heat.

Example: Oak takes longer to dry than pine. In a humid climate, firewood might take a year or more to dry properly.

Takeaway: Proper stacking and drying are essential for efficient burning. Don’t underestimate the importance of this final step.

Bonus Tip: Safety First, Always!

I can’t emphasize this enough: safety is paramount when working with chainsaws and wood. Always wear PPE, follow safe cutting practices, and be aware of your surroundings. A moment of carelessness can have devastating consequences.

First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand.
Communication: Let someone know where you’ll be and when you expect to be back.
Fatigue: Avoid working when you’re tired.
Alcohol and Drugs: Never operate a chainsaw under the influence of alcohol or drugs.

Final Thought: Woodcutting is a rewarding but demanding activity. By following these tips and practicing safe techniques, you can get the most out of your Stihl MS270C and enjoy the warmth and satisfaction of a well-stocked woodpile. Remember, respect the wood, respect the tool, and respect yourself. Now, get out there and make some sawdust!

Stihl MS270C Chainsaw Tips (7 Pro Woodcutting Hacks)