Stihl MS251 Chain Replacement Tips (5 Expert Hacks)

Stihl MS251 Chain Replacement Tips (5 Expert Hacks) & Budgeting for the Long Haul

In the realm of forestry and wood processing, the chainsaw stands as an indispensable tool. Its significance dates back to the late 18th century when it was initially developed as a surgical instrument for symphysiotomies. Fast forward to today, and it’s a workhorse for felling trees, bucking logs, and preparing firewood. For many homeowners and professionals alike, the Stihl MS251 is a reliable and popular choice. But like any tool, its performance hinges on proper maintenance, and a sharp, well-maintained chain is paramount. This article delves into expert hacks for replacing your Stihl MS251 chain and how to budget for chain replacements and other related wood processing costs.

Understanding User Intent: The Heart of Chain Replacement

Before diving into the hacks, let’s clarify the user intent behind searching for “Stihl MS251 Chain Replacement Tips.” Users are likely looking for:

It’s designed to immediately stop the chain in case of kickback. Before I even think about touching the chain, I engage the brake. It’s a non-negotiable.

How to engage: Push the chain brake lever forward until it clicks into place. You should hear and feel a definite engagement.
Testing: Before starting any work, make sure the brake is functioning correctly. Start the saw and briefly disengage the brake. The chain should spin. Immediately re-engage the brake. The chain should stop instantly. If it doesn’t, get it repaired immediately.
Cost Implication: A malfunctioning chain brake is a safety hazard and can lead to costly accidents. Regular inspection and maintenance of the brake system (usually involving cleaning and lubrication) is vital. Budgeting for professional servicing of your chainsaw, including brake inspection, is a smart move. Expect to pay around $50-$100 for a basic service, depending on your location and the service provider.

Hack #2: The Right Tools for the Job – A Small Investment, Big Returns

Don’t try to replace a chain with a screwdriver and a pair of pliers. It’s a recipe for frustration and potential injury. You need the right tools:

Chain wrench (or combination wrench): This specialized wrench is designed to loosen and tighten the bar nuts that hold the bar and chain in place. A combination wrench with the correct size socket will also work.
Screwdriver (usually flathead): This is used to adjust the chain tension.
Gloves: Protect your hands from sharp chain teeth and potential cuts.
Small brush: For cleaning debris from the bar and sprocket.
Chain breaker/rivet spinner (optional but recommended): This tool is used to shorten or repair chains. I find it incredibly useful for making custom loops and repairing damaged chains.

Cost Breakdown:

Chain wrench: \$10 – \$20
Screwdriver: You likely already own one. If not, a basic flathead screwdriver is inexpensive (under \$5).
Gloves: \$10 – \$30 (invest in good quality gloves – they’ll last longer)
Small brush: \$5 – \$10
Chain breaker/rivet spinner: \$30 – \$100 (a worthwhile investment if you frequently work with chainsaws)

The Value of Investing: While these tools represent an initial investment, they will save you time, frustration, and potentially money in the long run. Trying to make do with inadequate tools can damage your chainsaw and lead to more costly repairs.

Hack #3: Choosing the Right Chain – Matching Specs for Optimal Performance

Using the wrong chain on your MS251 is like putting the wrong tires on your car – it simply won’t perform as intended. The Stihl MS251 typically uses a 3/8″ pitch, .050″ gauge chain. However, it’s crucial to confirm the exact specifications for your specific MS251 model.

Pitch: The distance between any three consecutive rivets divided by two. (Typically 3/8″ for the MS251)
Gauge: The thickness of the drive links (the part of the chain that sits in the bar groove). (Typically .050″ for the MS251)
Drive link count: The number of drive links determines the chain’s length. This will vary depending on the bar length.

Finding the Right Specs:

Owner’s manual: This is the definitive source for your chainsaw’s chain specifications.
Old chain: If you have the old chain, look for markings on the drive links.
Stihl dealer: A Stihl dealer can quickly identify the correct chain for your MS251.

Chain Types and Costs:

Low-kickback chain: Designed for safety, especially for inexperienced users. Offers slower cutting speed. Cost: \$20 – \$30
Standard chain: Offers a good balance of cutting speed and safety. Cost: \$25 – \$35
Full chisel chain: Designed for fast cutting, but requires more skill and is more prone to kickback. Cost: \$30 – \$45

My Recommendation: For most users, a standard chain provides the best balance of performance and safety for the MS251.

The Cost of Neglect: Using the wrong chain can damage your bar, sprocket, and even the chainsaw engine. It can also increase the risk of kickback. Always use the correct chain for your MS251.

Hack #4: The Replacement Process – A Step-by-Step Guide

Now for the hands-on part. Here’s a detailed guide to replacing your Stihl MS251 chain:

Engage the chain brake: Safety first!
Loosen the bar nuts: Use your chain wrench to loosen the bar nuts. Don’t remove them completely yet.
Adjust the chain tension: Locate the chain tensioning screw (usually on the side of the chainsaw). Turn the screw counter-clockwise to loosen the chain tension. This will make it easier to remove the old chain.
Remove the bar nuts and side cover: Now, completely remove the bar nuts and the side cover.
Remove the old chain: Carefully remove the old chain from the bar groove and the sprocket.
Inspect the bar and sprocket: Check the bar for wear and damage. Look for burrs, uneven wear, or a bent bar. Inspect the sprocket for wear or damage to the teeth. Replace the bar or sprocket if necessary.
Install the new chain: Place the new chain around the sprocket, ensuring the cutting edges of the teeth are facing in the correct direction (they should point towards the nose of the bar on the top side). Then, guide the chain into the bar groove.
Reinstall the side cover and bar nuts: Place the side cover back on and tighten the bar nuts finger-tight.
Adjust the chain tension: Use the chain tensioning screw to adjust the chain tension. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand. A properly tensioned chain will have about 1/8″ of sag on the underside of the bar.
Tighten the bar nuts: Once the chain tension is correct, fully tighten the bar nuts.
Test the chain: Rotate the chain by hand to ensure it moves freely and is properly seated in the bar groove. Start the chainsaw and briefly run the chain at idle speed. Check the chain tension again and adjust if necessary.

Troubleshooting Tips:

Chain is too tight: Loosen the chain tensioning screw.
Chain is too loose: Tighten the chain tensioning screw.
Chain keeps coming off the bar: This could be due to a worn bar, a stretched chain, or improper chain tension. Inspect the bar and chain and replace if necessary. Ensure proper tension.
Chain binds or hesitates: This could be due to a dull chain, a damaged bar, or insufficient lubrication. Sharpen or replace the chain, inspect the bar, and ensure the oiler is functioning correctly.

Cost of Bar and Sprocket Replacement:

Chainsaw Bar (Stihl MS251): \$30 – \$60
Sprocket (Stihl MS251): \$15 – \$30

Preventive Maintenance: Regularly cleaning and lubricating your bar and sprocket will extend their lifespan and save you money in the long run.

Hack #5: Sharpening Your Chain – The Key to Efficiency and Longevity

A sharp chain is not only safer but also more efficient. A dull chain requires more force to cut, which puts more strain on the chainsaw engine and increases fuel consumption. Learning to sharpen your chain is a valuable skill that will save you time and money.

Tools for sharpening:
- Round file: The correct size round file for your chain’s pitch. (Typically 5/32″ for a 3/8″ pitch chain)
- File guide: A file guide helps you maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
- Depth gauge tool: Used to adjust the depth gauges (the small “rakers” in front of each cutting tooth).
Sharpening technique:
- Secure the chain in a vise or use a chain vise attachment for your chainsaw bar.
- Use the file guide to maintain the correct filing angle (typically 30 degrees).
- File each tooth consistently, using smooth, even strokes.
- Adjust the depth gauges as needed. The depth gauges should be slightly lower than the cutting teeth.
Frequency of sharpening: Sharpen your chain whenever it becomes dull. Signs of a dull chain include:
- The chainsaw requires more force to cut.
- The chain produces sawdust instead of chips.
- The chain pulls to one side.

Cost of Sharpening:

Round file: \$5 – \$10
File guide: \$10 – \$20
Depth gauge tool: \$5 – \$10
Chainsaw sharpening service: \$10 – \$20 per chain

The Long-Term Savings: Regularly sharpening your chain will extend its lifespan, reduce fuel consumption, and improve cutting efficiency. It’s a small investment that pays off big time.

Initial purchase price: The cost of the chainsaw itself. (Stihl MS251: \$400 – \$500)
Replacement chains: Budget for at least one or two replacement chains per year, depending on usage. (\$20 – \$45 per chain)
Bar and sprocket replacement: Replace the bar and sprocket as needed. (\$30 – \$60 for the bar, \$15 – \$30 for the sprocket)
Sharpening supplies: Include the cost of files, file guides, and depth gauge tools. (\$20 – \$40)
Fuel and oil: Factor in the cost of fuel and bar oil. (Fuel consumption varies depending on usage, but expect to spend \$5 – \$10 per tank of fuel. Bar oil consumption is typically around 1 quart per week of heavy use. Bar oil costs around \$10 – \$20 per gallon.)
Maintenance and repairs: Budget for regular maintenance and potential repairs. (\$50 – \$100 per service)
Safety gear: Don’t forget the cost of safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chaps. (\$100 – \$300)

A Real-World Example:

Let’s say you’re a homeowner who uses your Stihl MS251 to cut firewood for personal use. Here’s a potential annual budget:

Replacement chains: \$60 (2 chains x \$30)
Sharpening supplies: \$20
Fuel and oil: \$100
Maintenance: \$75
Total annual cost: \$255

Cost Optimization Strategies:

Buy in bulk: Purchase fuel, oil, and chains in bulk to save money.
Maintain your equipment: Regular maintenance will extend the life of your chainsaw and reduce the need for costly repairs.
Sharpen your own chain: Learning to sharpen your own chain will save you money on sharpening services and extend the life of your chain.
Shop around for the best prices: Compare prices from different retailers before purchasing chains, bars, and sprockets.
Consider aftermarket parts: Aftermarket parts can be a more affordable alternative to OEM parts. However, be sure to choose reputable brands to ensure quality and compatibility.

The Broader Context: Wood Processing Costs Beyond the Chainsaw

While the chainsaw is a crucial tool, it’s important to consider the broader context of wood processing costs. Whether you’re a logger, a firewood supplier, or a homeowner, these costs can significantly impact your bottom line.

Timber costs: The cost of purchasing timber varies depending on the species, quality, and location. Timber prices are typically quoted per board foot or per cord. According to the USDA Forest Service, average stumpage prices (the price paid for standing timber) can range from \$20 per thousand board feet for low-quality hardwood to \$200 or more per thousand board feet for high-quality softwood.
Logging costs: Logging costs include felling, skidding, and loading timber. These costs vary depending on the terrain, the size of the timber, and the efficiency of the logging crew. Logging costs can range from \$50 to \$200 per thousand board feet.
Transportation costs: Transporting timber from the forest to the mill or firewood yard can be a significant expense. Transportation costs depend on the distance, the type of truck, and the fuel prices.
Processing costs: Processing costs include sawing, splitting, and drying firewood. These costs vary depending on the equipment used and the labor costs.
Labor costs: Labor costs are a significant factor in wood processing. Wages for loggers, firewood handlers, and sawmill workers vary depending on location and experience.
Permits and regulations: Logging and wood processing may be subject to permits and regulations. These can add to the overall cost of the project.

Firewood Costs: A Closer Look

Firewood prices vary depending on the species, the dryness, and the location. According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, the average price of firewood in the United States is around \$250 per cord. However, prices can range from \$150 to \$400 per cord, depending on the factors mentioned above.

Factors Affecting Firewood Costs:

Wood species: Hardwoods like oak and maple are more expensive than softwoods like pine and fir.
Dryness: Seasoned firewood (firewood that has been dried for at least six months) is more expensive than green firewood.
Location: Firewood prices are typically higher in urban areas than in rural areas.
Delivery: Delivery charges can add to the overall cost of firewood.

Estimating Drying Time:

The drying time for firewood depends on the wood species, the climate, and the stacking method. As a general rule, hardwoods take longer to dry than softwoods. In a dry climate, firewood can dry in as little as six months. In a humid climate, it may take a year or more.

Formula for Estimating Drying Time:

Drying Time (months) = (Moisture Content (%) – Target Moisture Content (%)) / Drying Rate (% per month)

Moisture Content: The initial moisture content of the wood (typically 50-60% for green wood).
Target Moisture Content: The desired moisture content for firewood (typically 20% or less).
Drying Rate: The rate at which the wood loses moisture per month (this varies depending on the climate and stacking method).

Cost Optimization Tips for Firewood Preparation:

Harvest your own firewood: If you have access to a woodlot, harvesting your own firewood can save you money.
Buy green firewood: Green firewood is cheaper than seasoned firewood. However, you will need to dry it yourself.
Stack your firewood properly: Stacking your firewood in a single row, with good air circulation, will speed up the drying process.
Split your firewood: Splitting your firewood will also speed up the drying process.
Negotiate with your firewood supplier: Don’t be afraid to negotiate the price of firewood.

Case Study: Budgeting for a Small-Scale Logging Operation

Let’s consider a hypothetical case study of a small-scale logging operation in the Pacific Northwest. The logger plans to harvest 10,000 board feet of Douglas fir timber.

Timber costs: \$100 per thousand board feet x 10,000 board feet = \$1,000
Logging costs: \$150 per thousand board feet x 10,000 board feet = \$1,500
Transportation costs: \$50 per thousand board feet x 10,000 board feet = \$500
Permits and regulations: \$200
Labor costs: \$1,000
Equipment costs (chainsaw maintenance, fuel, etc.): \$500
Total costs: \$4,700

Revenue:

Selling price of timber: \$300 per thousand board feet x 10,000 board feet = \$3,000

Profit/Loss:

\$3,000 (revenue) – \$4,700 (costs) = -\$1,700 (loss)

Analysis:

In this scenario, the logger would incur a loss of \$1,700. To make the operation profitable, the logger would need to either increase revenue or decrease costs.

Strategies for Improving Profitability:

Stihl MS251 Chain Replacement Tips (5 Expert Hacks)